tshultz
Zone Head
Posts: 556
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posted December 13, 2009 10:06 AM
 Edited By: tshultz on 13 Dec 2009 18:07
I took the easy way out and went to my local hydraulics shop and they made up my stainless braided nitrous lines up while i waited. Only took them about 10minutes and wasn't any more expensive than just ordering threw jegs or summit plus i didn't have to make the lines.
  
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rgeorge
Expert Class
Posts: 220
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posted December 13, 2009 11:05 AM
quote:
Rob, great pix!
How flexible is that teflon hose, and where to get the the fire sleeves?
The speed flex hose has a higher minimum bend radius than most hoses, but it works fine if you use the right mix of swivels and angled adapters.
more info on speed flex:
http://www.mpsracing.com/products/Earls/Speed-Flex.asp
5/8 or 3/4" fire sleeve is recommended for most -6 hose assys. But in our application the space between the back of the engine and the frame is very tight and you want the tightest fire sleeve that will fit over the hose. The assy pic I posted has -9 (9/16) fire sleeve on it.
I'm sure fire sleeves are available from the racing parts suppliers, but these are what I am familiar with.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/ap/hose_firesleeve.html
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2000redrocket
Pro
Posts: 1662
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posted December 13, 2009 01:55 PM
those line pictures look like my car fittings except the ferrul part. mine must of been different style. you can for sure get into a lot of money. i have two holley race punps feeding #10s to a #10 to #12 Y block feeding a #12 line up front to the regulator at the front of the car feeding #8 to the dominator. some of those 120deg fittings being #12 suck price wise.
ent have fun. like doug said when done it is a very nice looking picture, wish i had a nice one of my engine bay.
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tcchin
Zone Head
Posts: 867
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posted December 13, 2009 03:43 PM
If you want sucky prices, you should look at the prices of Aeroquip FCM1130, FCM1140 and FCM1150 hose ends (-3 stainless forged swivel).
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entropy
Moderator
Posts: 8671
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posted December 14, 2009 12:23 AM
prices of Aeroquip FCM1130
Aeroquip FCM1130 Stainless Steel -03AN Straight Swivel Hose Fitting
Other products by Aeroquip
Price: $65.21 & this item ships for FREE with Super Saver Shipping. Details
YIKES!!!~!
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entropy
Moderator
Posts: 8671
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posted December 14, 2009 12:27 AM
Rob,
thanks for the info on fire sleeves. Seems like i've seen somewhere that they are required under some conditions or at some venues???
In the pic below it looks like the firesleeve is shrunken onto the hose. Is that an optical dillusion??
quote:
Then hide all the the shiny stainless with ugly fire-sleeve.
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entropy
Moderator
Posts: 8671
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posted December 14, 2009 02:37 AM
quote:
sweet performance.com
my brother-in-law
Dave
Hey JC, just went to SweetPerf site, good stuff
Thanks!
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entropy
Moderator
Posts: 8671
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posted December 14, 2009 04:20 AM
It looks like the hot set up would be to thread the fuel rail to take an npt to AN fitting; or like TChin says put a quick disconnect in the line.
one way or another, I now have a wealth of info to solve my lil fuel hosing/fitting project.
Thanks everybody!
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TRNorBRN6001
Needs a job
Posts: 2021
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posted December 14, 2009 01:44 PM
Edited By: TRNorBRN6001 on 14 Dec 2009 21:47
Very nice Rob, looks real clean.
Quick connects to the rail/tank would be nice for you Karl with as many times as you take that engine out of the frame.
The fire sleeves are usually for external fuel pumps from the tank to the pump.
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dougmeyer
Needs a job
moderated
Posts: 2713
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posted December 14, 2009 07:00 PM
More than once I've wished for dry breaks on the tank bottom, but anywhere else is not really the hot tip because of all the extra fittings and length they take up.
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entropy
Moderator
Posts: 8671
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posted December 15, 2009 02:05 AM
quote:
More than once I've wished for dry breaks on the tank bottom, but anywhere else is not really the hot tip because of all the extra fittings and length they take up.
Doug does "dry break" = quick disconnect???
I had a quick connect on the feed to the rail, but took it off bc of limited space under the TB's; it fit, but it was a lil awkward.
Unlike Tim's RR bike, I don't really need quick removal of the tank.
I'm thinking of tapping the rail input and output holes, install NPT to AN fittings, then i can disconnect the fuel lines by wrench rather than worm screws.
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entropy
Moderator
Posts: 8671
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posted December 15, 2009 02:07 AM
quote:
The fire sleeves are usually for external fuel pumps from the tank to the pump.
Gary,
I am thinking about fire-sleeve at least on the feed to the rail bc that one sits adjacent to the coolant hose from head to radiator. Maybe keep the fuel a lil cooler.
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rtbain
Expert Class
old, fat and slow
Posts: 244
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posted December 15, 2009 03:13 AM
Edited By: rtbain on 15 Dec 2009 11:20
+1 on the adivce. I would add the spreadder tool to the list.
AN refers to an Army/Navy numbering and sizing system established between WWI and WWII.
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Randy
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entropy
Moderator
Posts: 8671
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posted December 15, 2009 03:52 AM
Hey Randy,
how is yr build going???
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tcchin
Zone Head
Posts: 867
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posted December 15, 2009 09:14 AM
quote:
I'm thinking of tapping the rail input and output holes, install NPT to AN fittings, then i can disconnect the fuel lines by wrench rather than worm screws.
You can also use straight metric threads and use a metric-to-AN adapter. I prefer straight threads to the tapered threads of the NPT standard.
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dougmeyer
Needs a job
moderated
Posts: 2713
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posted December 15, 2009 11:51 AM
Straight threads are always better, but you have to have the correct female component design to accept an o-ring or a flat for a stat-o-seal.
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MadMike
Moderator
FEAR THE BLACK FLAG!!!!!!!!
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posted December 15, 2009 06:50 PM
quote:
Well Done! Army Navy Specs for all common hardware, set up in the '30's
Hey I just remembered I have a picture of the AN line intensiveTurbo Shadow, complete with a 1973 version of Doug Meyer......
great pix!!!
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MadMike
Moderator
FEAR THE BLACK FLAG!!!!!!!!
Posts: 6579
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posted December 15, 2009 07:06 PM
Karl, I have found some screaming deals on crimpers on ebay, and I have seen all different sizes and kinds...
I do not see any right now... but a good place to keep your eyes open.
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texanzone
Novice Class
Posts: 73
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posted December 19, 2009 12:57 PM
Karl here's a link on the fire sleeve
http://www.mpsracing.com/products/Earls/Flame_Guard.asp
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rgeorge
Expert Class
Posts: 220
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posted December 20, 2009 10:29 PM
quote:
Rob,
In the pic below it looks like the firesleeve is shrunken onto the hose. Is that an optical dillusion??
Not shrunk, just fits very tight with -9 sleeve. It has to stretch a little to go over the hose ends. Next time I'll use -10.
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rgeorge
Expert Class
Posts: 220
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posted December 20, 2009 10:53 PM
Edited By: rgeorge on 21 Dec 2009 06:59
quote:
I'm thinking of tapping the rail input and output holes, install NPT to AN fittings, then i can disconnect the fuel lines by wrench rather than worm screws.
I don't think there is enough material in the stock cast rail to get good NPT threads. You could tap the end of the rail, but then getting the hoses there is a concern.
To prevent flow restriction, you need at least 1/4" NPT pipe thread or at least M10 straight threads with oring or soft washer.
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entropy
Moderator
Posts: 8671
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posted December 20, 2009 11:42 PM
Rob,
Thanks for the input. I will follow up on this after Miami.
I have a spare OEM rail to experiment with... 
Are you thinking of Mojave???
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Johnnycheese
Pro
Posts: 1008
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posted December 21, 2009 03:01 PM
Karl like I said he is mu Bro-in-law let me know if u need anything
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entropy
Moderator
Posts: 8671
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posted December 21, 2009 04:02 PM
quote:
Karl like I said he is mu Bro-in-law let me know if u need anything
thanks, Johnny, I WILL be needing stuff!
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