Shane661
Needs a life
Posts: 11494
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posted August 07, 2009 07:52 AM
Could you show a pic of the cutoff wheel/tool you used? I am assuming an air tool?
It looks like a very nice cut, I have a 14 tank here to modify.
Shane
  
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VincentHill
Needs a life
Posts: 6520
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posted August 07, 2009 09:38 AM
 Edited By: VincentHill on 7 Aug 2009 17:40
Shane I used a drill to cut a hole and straight / Left Shears to cut out my tank and for the hard places a Dremel tool with the Fiber Cut Off wheel! First I ran tape around the tank to know Exactly where I wanted the cut.
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Made History @ Daytona and still one fast old man!!
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Shane661
Needs a life
Posts: 11494
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posted August 07, 2009 09:41 AM
Thanks Vincent, I'm hope you are getting the LSR bug again! 
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VincentHill
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Posts: 6520
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posted August 07, 2009 11:17 AM
quote:
Thanks Vincent, I'm hope you are getting the LSR bug again!
You never lose it, You have no idea of how hard and how many things I am getting finished up on so that I can ENJOY Life again in the Fast Lane! I cannot imagine how much I would have enjoyed Loring (Bonneville East)
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Made History @ Daytona and still one fast old man!!
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brickman
Expert Class
Posts: 294
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posted August 07, 2009 11:34 AM
it must have something to do with my local. i had a tank rust threw at the bottom. and have seen one other rusted threw at the bottom. and a third one rusted to the point it was worthless. all on 2000 models.
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VincentHill
Needs a life
Posts: 6520
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posted August 07, 2009 12:36 PM
quote:
it must have something to do with my local. i had a tank rust threw at the bottom. and have seen one other rusted threw at the bottom. and a third one rusted to the point it was worthless. all on 2000 models.
Location can allow for water to build up sitting for long periods. If not full, then the vents allow air in and when cold it condenses the water our of the air and it goes to the bottom of the tank. I use the Fitch Fuel Cat Balls and Stabil and so far, None of the bikes we have '3" year 2000 all look clean
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Made History @ Daytona and still one fast old man!!
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almost_les
Zone Head
Posts: 590
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posted August 07, 2009 12:47 PM
tossing in some ethanol every now and then helps too. it absorbs water.
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TurboBike
Expert Class
Posts: 121
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posted August 08, 2009 10:47 AM
quote:
How much weight savings are we talking here........?
6-7lbs
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RACE WHAT YOU BRUNG AND HOPE YOU BRUNG ENUFF
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entropy
Moderator
Posts: 8671
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posted August 08, 2009 11:19 AM
Edited By: entropy on 8 Aug 2009 19:25
quote:
quote:
it must have something to do with my local. i had a tank rust threw at the bottom. and have seen one other rusted threw at the bottom. and a third one rusted to the point it was worthless. all on 2000 models.
Location can allow for water to build up sitting for long periods. If not full, then the vents allow air in and when cold it condenses the water our of the air and it goes to the bottom of the tank. I use the Fitch Fuel Cat Balls and Stabil and so far, None of the bikes we have '3" year 2000 all look clean
Vince,
The stock 12 tanks are coated and should never rust on the inside, that coating shit is tough.
But as soon as the tank is welded/brazed it burns the coating off, and it rusts in days.
another thing:
Why is anyone bothering with the fuel level sensor in a cut tank????
You can see the level easily when the cap is moved to the cut position.
another-another thing:
when you cut the tank down, my advice is to leave the upper base of the tank connected to the remaining part of the tank. That base covers the wires and front bolt still secures the tank. Put some 1/2" foam on the front part and you are GTG.
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This moderator uses moderation in moderation
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almost_les
Zone Head
Posts: 590
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posted August 08, 2009 05:54 PM
Edited By: almost_les on 9 Aug 2009 02:32
i still ride mine in the streets and looking down the gas tank while doing 65 down the freeway at night seems like a bad idea to me so i kept the sensor.
oh yeah, results: took it to the track last night and the tank made a big difference. i can actually give it 100% throttle in first gear and keep the front end planted. didn't get any clean runs in. the best was a 10.23 on a 1.69 60' i ended up hitting the rev limiter in first gear. all the runs before that were shakedowns, giving it more gas and rpms each time. kinda sucks having to learn everything all over again. everything is different this year: shifter setup, gearing, wheelbase, lowering, etc... this is the second time the bike has been to the track since last setember. the funny part is that was still the fastest time out of all the bikes to run, including the two stretched out zx14s and my buddies sprayed/stretched 12r. hopefully i can get it back into the nines at the next race, if i can stop acting like a rookie on it.
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almost_les
Zone Head
Posts: 590
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posted August 16, 2009 04:21 PM
new (used) cover, cut to match the new tank:
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rtbain
Expert Class
old, fat and slow
Posts: 244
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posted August 17, 2009 07:39 AM
source for filler neck and cap
quote:
oh yeah, and remember to connect the fuel line BEFORE filling up the tank
Where did you source your filler neck and cap? Tried flattening out the original tank but has trouble making it fit.
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Randy
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Ken 12r
Novice Class
Posts: 86
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posted August 17, 2009 08:16 AM
I have a cut tank on my big bore ZX12 and its really helped me,but for the turbo I have had a kevlar fuel cell built to similar dimensions by ETI fuel cell.They were very helpful and built the tank to the exact size I wanted,weighs slightly over 2lbs.
http://www.eti-fuelcel.com/
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www.uklandspeedracingassociation.co.uk
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almost_les
Zone Head
Posts: 590
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posted August 17, 2009 10:13 AM
quote:
quote:
oh yeah, and remember to connect the fuel line BEFORE filling up the tank
Where did you source your filler neck and cap? Tried flattening out the original tank but has trouble making it fit.
http://coyote-gear.com/capinfo.html
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VincentHill
Needs a life
Posts: 6520
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posted August 17, 2009 12:14 PM
As Posted elsewhere, you can see I needed to remove the top of my tank! I can actually sit in that area. Pic from 2004
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Made History @ Daytona and still one fast old man!!
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