INTRA
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posted October 13, 2002 08:28 PM
so,by using that figure,what would two 38's be??
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ZHooligan

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posted October 13, 2002 08:30 PM
the #34 jet on my 1361 makes 54 hp SAE.
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Your Car Is Slow

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posted October 13, 2002 08:31 PM
quote: so,by using that figure,what would two 38's be??
A whole fuckin lot
Id say over 100hp easy....prolly in the 130 range.
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INTRA
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posted October 13, 2002 08:33 PM
How N the F--K is my motor gonna survive that!!!!!!
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Your Car Is Slow

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posted October 13, 2002 08:36 PM
Edited By: Your Car Is Slow on 13 Oct 2002 21:37
lotta fuel (prolly race gas too)...and alotta retard...if at all
Stock internals?
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INTRA
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posted October 13, 2002 08:42 PM
Edited By: INTRA on 13 Oct 2002 22:02
Yes,all stock,now at -5 deg,resistor in line,modded air filters powershot on first stage,cheater on second stage,bike made 174hp on dyno at 4 deg adv(all motor).but for sure lost some w/all the fuel and retard-no pc,King ran twin 38's and said I SHOULD be good,but I know how nitrous is,it's been on 70% of my cars/bikes and I've blown up a lot of shit-stay tuned...........
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ZHooligan

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posted October 13, 2002 10:07 PM
You might want to where a cup!!!! Maybe a chest protector too!!
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ninjamissile
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posted October 16, 2002 02:03 AM
YCIS
Hi mate, just wanted to ask why you put back your Muzzy advancer. Why didn't you use your pc3r as usual? Just curious coz I am thinking about getting one of these boxes myself
Ninja Missile
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your car is slow

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posted October 16, 2002 08:01 AM
I dont have a PC3R..just a PC3
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zxlnt

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posted October 17, 2002 11:06 AM
I have a #34 I think in my bike right now. Using a Muzzy map with +5 on fuel everywhere above 6000 rpm and 3 degrees timing pulled out. Picked up about 8 mph. I had been pulling -5 degrees but went to -3 and seemed like it picked up about 2 mph.
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kingzx12r

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posted October 20, 2002 08:45 PM
Intra I said twin .038s on a stock motor I think, if I didn't sorry for the confusion. Rule of thumb is -2 degrees for every 30 hp of nitrous on a dry system wet systems have there own timing charts in the manuals or contact NOS directly.
At this time NOS does not approve of dry systems even when I sent them data they were not convinced.
On the 1361 kit twin .028 jets will give you about 60 hp and you would need to retard -4 or -5 on the timing remember all bikes are different you need to check all the plugs even if your a/f looks good.
Another little bit of info I just recieved is that nitrous and platinum plugs are not good friends when they fail they fail huge just thought you would like to know.
NGK makes race plugs ngk R016-10 it is one heat range colder and is a race plug the electrode is much more sturdy about 25 bucks US each. Hope this helps.
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ninja12
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posted October 21, 2002 12:08 PM
King,
What is the benifit of 2 .028 jet over 1 .034 jet on a 1361.
ZHooligan is getting 54 from one stage and you say 60 from two.
Any other advantage other than the 6 hp?
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your car is slow

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posted October 21, 2002 12:24 PM
Dual stage allows you to somewhat regulate the initial hit to something more manageable (you can hit the button sooner).
I dont think you could fire off a single big jet in 1st..but perhaps a smaller one..then the bigger one in a later gear.
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kingzx12r

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posted October 21, 2002 12:27 PM
Two stage allows you to do two things, one is adjustability it allows you to get on the juice faster in a lower gear and better your 60 ft.
Two is it is easier to introduce nitrous gradually and more safetly at a controlled rate rather than boom all at once, depending on how your bike is setup it makes a very big difference on how it works and how much you can optimize use of it.
Hope it helps.
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zxlnt

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posted October 21, 2002 01:57 PM
quote: Dual stage allows you to somewhat regulate the initial hit to something more manageable (you can hit the button sooner).
I dont think you could fire off a single big jet in 1st..but perhaps a smaller one..then the bigger one in a later gear.
Yeah the #34 jet in my bike just lights the tire in first about 100 feet out..
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kingzx12r

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posted October 21, 2002 03:54 PM
.018 is good on WOT switch for first it is about 12hp works well for me.
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ninjamissile
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posted November 12, 2002 04:16 AM
YCIS
Hi buddy, Just needed a little more info before buying one of these EFIR units. As I understand it if I am running my current map with +5 degree advance, when I press the button this unit automatically retards the timing to whatever I have set it to. But what are you doing about adding the extra fuel?. Surely you still have to add more fuel!
Ninja Missile
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your car is slow

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posted November 12, 2002 06:26 AM
Eh...my understanding is that the box retards the timing as a NET rather than a gross...but dont quote me on that.
Meaning...If you are running +5...and you set the EFIR box to -5 on spray..you are in effect running stock timing.
Im dumping as much fuel as possible into the motor using the PC3 cells from 6500 to 12200 at WOT only...Just replaced the stock original plugs with some colder ones and the stockers look good...bike is certainly getting enough fuel on the 40 jet.
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ninjamissile
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posted November 12, 2002 09:03 AM
I understand about the NET rather than GROSS when retarding but still unsure about the adding of the fuel. When I am running my +5 degree map and I press the button for retard how does that effect the map. I know it changes the timing but what about the fuel. Are you saying the my +5 degree map has to have all that extra fuel on it to start with.
I hope you can understand what I am trying to say
Ninja Missile
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your car is slow

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posted November 12, 2002 09:08 AM
Yes..I understand what you are saying..and the answer is yes and no
Depending on how much you are spraying....the ECU IS going to compensate additional fuel regardless of your map due to the airbox temp sensor getting cold as a result of the spray. The problem is noone really knows "How much" fuel is actually being added..so its a guess as to how much additional fuel you need to add via the PC3 to run larger jets.
So...with that said...I personally have my everyday map set "super rich" at WOT only so I dont impact driveability unless im going WOT...and hopefully I wont be going WOT much unless im racing. I certainly wont be using the nitrous unless im at WOT..so it somewhat works out.
I plan on getting this wideband setup with the colder plugs and the 46 jet to do some testing this weekend....would have gotten it done sooner...but this demolition derby car has taken up most of my free time lately..not to mention I cant get the freaking clutch nut off to put the billet basket on. I dont ever wanna meet the guys who tighten these nuts....Id imagine they have one helluva handshake.
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fastestr1
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posted November 12, 2002 09:29 AM
Are you using an air gun? We had the same problem until we got the air gun and it came off in seconds.
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your car is slow

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posted November 12, 2002 09:53 AM
I wish :/
Have a 3' breaker bar that ive been unsuccessful with sofar.
Broke down over the weekend and ordered an Electric Impact...should be here soon.
That sumbitch better come off.
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ninjamissile
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posted November 12, 2002 12:12 PM
YCIS
Thanks for taking the time out to answer my questions. I really appreciate it. I will make some adjustments to my map to make sure there is plenty of fuel on tap.
On another note I heard that King melted a piston at Gainsville true\false?
Ninja Missile
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posted November 12, 2002 12:27 PM
Dunno..heard he broke..dunno what. I never made it down there
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ninja12
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posted November 12, 2002 02:41 PM
Guys,
Here is the cure to the clutch and front sproket problems.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=31877
this can sometimes be had for $59.
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