aliveagain
Needs a life
Posts: 5033
|
posted March 10, 2008 10:04 AM
floaters in the oil
When I started the bike up after the last bearing replacement,it ran for about 30 sec. without any oil pressure.I also had a coolant leak on the pump noticed on initial startup.I drained and removed the oil and sump to make sure nothing got in there while pulling the water pump.I noticed a lot of dull silver things floating in the oil.I thought for sure it was the bearing starting to go from not enough oil.I just got back from showing somebody the oil deposits and sighed a big relief.Was told that most of the dull silver bits were probably left over yamabond and a few pieces that might have come from the lock up I just installed.Now I'm excited because it has been a long time since the bike has been ready for the summer.I hope another 6 weeks before the hip is ready and I can finally ride.I will do one more oil flush after a couple of rides just to double check nothing is going on but its feels good to finally be ready!Come on baby show me the warm weather!
____________
I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger. Then it hit me.
  
|
entropy
Moderator
Posts: 8671
|
posted March 10, 2008 10:33 AM
Pete,
when you put new oil in the motor do you loosen the filter, disconnect the FI harness and turn it over until oil comes out around the filter???.
____________
This moderator uses moderation in moderation
|
aliveagain
Needs a life
Posts: 5033
|
posted March 10, 2008 02:00 PM
I've always had good luck filling the oil filter and turning it over.
____________
I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger. Then it hit me.
|
Heavy AK
Novice Class
Posts: 64
|
posted March 10, 2008 03:26 PM
 Edited By: Heavy AK on 10 Mar 2008 16:26
Oil level
quote:
loosen the filter, disconnect the FI harness and turn it over until oil comes out around the filter???.
I've never done that procedure...I just measure out the amount according to the service manual for an oil/filter change. I've always heard that 12's are tempermental about how much oil must be in them to run properly. Do you follow the manual or do you continue to put oil in until it reads properly on the sight glass?
____________
A little GAS is a good thing!
|
MadMike
Moderator
FEAR THE BLACK FLAG!!!!!!!!
Posts: 6579
|
posted March 10, 2008 07:01 PM
quote:
quote:
loosen the filter, disconnect the FI harness and turn it over until oil comes out around the filter???.
I've never done that procedure...I just measure out the amount according to the service manual for an oil/filter change. I've always heard that 12's are tempermental about how much oil must be in them to run properly. Do you follow the manual or do you continue to put oil in until it reads properly on the sight glass?
He is talking to prime the oil on a fresh rebuild or oil change!
I fill the oil filter and do a quick install, but Karls way is really the way it should be done!
MM
____________
200-MPH CLUB MEMBER!
|
NOX
Needs a job
PMRA / TMRC Super Street 4022
Posts: 3745
|
posted March 10, 2008 08:17 PM
On a new rebuild, it is best to do it like Karl said, but , in between changes, I dont think it is needed., if you fill the filter. I have heard all the issues with the 12s. I have always used a KN filter, and never had a prob. Only oil prob I ever had was my fault, put yamabond on a area I was not supposed to, and ended up spinning a couple of rods.......
____________
42 Wins
21 Runner-ups
2010 TMRC Super Street Points Champion
2010 PMRA Super Street #3 Points
2009 PMRA Super Street Points Runner-Up
6 Time Centerville Dragway Points Champion
Sponsored by:
Scorpion Helmets
Galfer Braking
AMSOIL
Steve's Speed Shop
Kawasaki Sports Center
Mickey Thompson Tires
Catalyst Racing Composites
Conway Cycle
Syed Leathers
|
psycho1122
Pro
Posts: 1608
|
posted March 11, 2008 06:58 AM
If you had an oil pressure guage on your 12's, you would be suprised at what actually is going on in the system.
entropy's advise is VERY sound. If my 12 sits for more than two weeks w/o starting, I will unplug the injectors and turn it over on the starter for MORE THAN 10 seconds just to get the needle to move. Granted the RPM is low. However, it is easy and cheap insurance not to have a dry start.
At oil changes, I use the same procedure. Even after the system "burps" oil and the filter is tightened, it still takes another 6-10 seconds to get ONLY 5 psi.
____________
You say PSYCHO like it's a BAD thing!!
|
aliveagain
Needs a life
Posts: 5033
|
posted March 11, 2008 09:21 AM
Where are you getting the oil pressure from?Putting a tee where the oil pressure sending unit is?Do you run an 8th inch line to the handlebar area?I take it the tee would be metric also?
____________
I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger. Then it hit me.
|
entropy
Moderator
Posts: 8671
|
posted March 11, 2008 09:35 AM
AA,
the oil pressure fitting is NPT, avail at home Depot
psycho
with 24V starting i get 20psi on the gauge in 4-5 sec 
____________
This moderator uses moderation in moderation
|
TRNorBRN6001
Needs a job
Posts: 2021
|
posted March 11, 2008 06:26 PM
24V, sure is nice! Glad to hear about the 20PSI in 4-5 sec, makes me feel a little better.
____________
TFA 200MPH CLUB MEMBER!
|
psycho1122
Pro
Posts: 1608
|
posted March 11, 2008 06:38 PM
Aliveagain; I removed the "Change Engine Light" sending unit and plumbed in -4 Earls fitings and lines up to a liquid filled 0-100 psi guage.
entropy; how much higher rpm does the 24VDC starter system give you? Also, what size internal dia. line are you running to your guage?
____________
You say PSYCHO like it's a BAD thing!!
|
NOX
Needs a job
PMRA / TMRC Super Street 4022
Posts: 3745
|
posted March 11, 2008 07:24 PM
maybe 2 to 3 seconds on mine, and I have pressure.......
I wish there was a more accurate way of getting pressure, if you watch the line, you can have oil rushing to the guage, but you dont get the reading until a second or two later.......
analog guages are slow........., but they at least tell you that things are working good.........
Get it warm, rev to 4000, and 35 to 40 psi........, I dont worry about it anymore........
____________
42 Wins
21 Runner-ups
2010 TMRC Super Street Points Champion
2010 PMRA Super Street #3 Points
2009 PMRA Super Street Points Runner-Up
6 Time Centerville Dragway Points Champion
Sponsored by:
Scorpion Helmets
Galfer Braking
AMSOIL
Steve's Speed Shop
Kawasaki Sports Center
Mickey Thompson Tires
Catalyst Racing Composites
Conway Cycle
Syed Leathers
|
entropy
Moderator
Posts: 8671
|
posted March 11, 2008 10:16 PM
quote:
Aliveagain; I removed the "Change Engine Light" sending unit and plumbed in -4 Earls fitings and lines up to a liquid filled 0-100 psi guage.
entropy; how much higher rpm does the 24VDC starter system give you? Also, what size internal dia. line are you running to your guage?
I put a T on the L side of the galley with the oil pressure sending unit off one side and a pressure transducer on the other side for logging oil p.
On the R side of the galley, i removed the hex plug (CAREFUL if you try to remove this plug), and have some NPT fittings and a compression fitting with a very thin tube going to an analog gauge mounted in the R RAM air cover.
I don't know the ID of the tube but its tiny.
I don't know how fast the 24V starting system spins the motor... but its pretty fast
____________
This moderator uses moderation in moderation
|
NOX
Needs a job
PMRA / TMRC Super Street 4022
Posts: 3745
|
posted March 11, 2008 10:26 PM
I did the same thing, but have the OPSU off one end of the T, and the analog guage tubing, 1/8 line, comes with the AUTO Meter guage, and put it in the left side ram air cover......
BTW karl, I removed the plug from my old motor with no prob at all......, did not remove it from the "new" motor I just got......
dang its late, I gotta lay off the coffee.......
____________
42 Wins
21 Runner-ups
2010 TMRC Super Street Points Champion
2010 PMRA Super Street #3 Points
2009 PMRA Super Street Points Runner-Up
6 Time Centerville Dragway Points Champion
Sponsored by:
Scorpion Helmets
Galfer Braking
AMSOIL
Steve's Speed Shop
Kawasaki Sports Center
Mickey Thompson Tires
Catalyst Racing Composites
Conway Cycle
Syed Leathers
|
ninja12
Needs a job
Posts: 3310
|
posted March 13, 2008 09:46 AM
Walmart sell a cheap oil pressure kit $10-20, which had everything except the T.
On a new build I don't put the plugs in until the oil light goes out.
Sometimes it takes ALOT longer than you would expect to get it going on a new build.
ALWAYS crank the bike before oil change. This ensures no dry start after the change.
Also be ready on the kill button after the change in case you don't get pressure in
3 seconds. If no OP that's when I follow Karls procedure.
|
krexken
Zone Head
Posts: 732
|
posted March 13, 2008 06:55 PM
Sounds like some of yall would love an accumulator. It's basically an oil tank with a piston to separate the oil side/air side. The air charge helps push the oil out. Put a valve on it to store pressurized oil for cold crank ups. Tee it into the sending unit fitting. Rev your motor when running, close the valve off and you've got 100 psi or more in the tank for next startup. Yall know how the 12s have so much room for such a device. LOL
|
aliveagain
Needs a life
Posts: 5033
|
posted March 13, 2008 07:43 PM
Engine builder assured me that the lubriplate engine assembly lube would be good enough to ride the bike home with no oil.They have seen it done.
____________
I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger. Then it hit me.
|
NOX
Needs a job
PMRA / TMRC Super Street 4022
Posts: 3745
|
posted March 14, 2008 04:56 AM
There is a reason that you use that stuff when building a motor........
____________
42 Wins
21 Runner-ups
2010 TMRC Super Street Points Champion
2010 PMRA Super Street #3 Points
2009 PMRA Super Street Points Runner-Up
6 Time Centerville Dragway Points Champion
Sponsored by:
Scorpion Helmets
Galfer Braking
AMSOIL
Steve's Speed Shop
Kawasaki Sports Center
Mickey Thompson Tires
Catalyst Racing Composites
Conway Cycle
Syed Leathers
|
|
|
HOME
NEW TOPIC