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BIKELAND > FORUMS > DRAGBIKE ZONE.com > Thread: hey Vincent (or others!): about yr cut tank? NEW TOPIC NEW POLL POST REPLY
entropy


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posted February 17, 2008 04:52 AM        
hey Vincent (or others!): about yr cut tank?

a couple questions:

1. Did you treat the plate you welded to cover where you cut off the top with anything?
I'm thinking that bare steel sheet metal may rust or react with fuel??

2. The dense 1/2"??? black foam material you covered stuff with; where did you get it???
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VincentHill


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posted February 17, 2008 06:41 AM        
You of all people know that Gasoline is OIL and OIL stops Rust! The stock tanks are NOT COated with anything. Once you weld the tank make sure you flush everything out with GASOLINE and you will be fine.

Most places that sell RUBBER Products have the Dense Cell foam rubber, look in the phone book or on line. EASY to fine in a NON Manufacturing town like DC then you should find it easy in Texas!

If still nervous about rust, there are SEVERAL Products to coat tanks the ONLY One to NO Use is PREM! It will work fine for a year or so then one day it will all crack up and be in your fuel!
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VincentHill


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posted February 17, 2008 06:42 AM        
PS: I got a Package Saturday and your will be there next week!
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tcchin


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posted February 17, 2008 11:36 AM        
Sorry to butt in, but I've had good luck with 85175K59 and 85175K89 or similar on Pg. 3445. Use foam contact adhesive (3M #74 7610A15) to hold it in place.

I've run a lot of repaired tanks on the race bikes, and I've found that tanks that have been welded are more prone to rusting than virgin tanks. However, if you flush the inside of the tank with WD-40 (8 oz or so, rolled around inside the tank) immediately after the welds have cooled, then drain the WD-40 and flush only the bottom of the tank with gasoline, you can prevent a lot of rust.

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VincentHill


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posted February 17, 2008 01:57 PM        
quote:
Sorry to butt in, but I've had good luck with 85175K59 and 85175K89 or similar on Pg. 3445. Use foam contact adhesive (3M #74 7610A15) to hold it in place.

I've run a lot of repaired tanks on the race bikes, and I've found that tanks that have been welded are more prone to rusting than virgin tanks. However, if you flush the inside of the tank with WD-40 (8 oz or so, rolled around inside the tank) immediately after the welds have cooled, then drain the WD-40 and flush only the bottom of the tank with gasoline, you can prevent a lot of rust.


Great advice and good idea Yes they do seem MORE prone to rust specially where the welding is! My welding was heliarc with a stainless rod in an argon enviroment which "MAY" help!

I use the 3M Heavy duty spray on headliner / weather seal adhesive! Spray both pieces and wait for about 30 minutes and CAREFULLY Align then it is stuck forever!
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Texas12R


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Posts: 545
posted February 17, 2008 02:37 PM        
Well Karl if you were going to Buddys house you could drop off the tank in Cleburne or I could pick it up if you were anywhere in the area.....I could weld it for nothing in the garage
with the Tig machine......I dont know about coating other than cadmium plating and its been a while since I had anything done..........but it is great for corrosion prevention...its just not a do-it-yourself kind of plating.....
Mr Hill is right on the mark concerning using a stainless to make the weld...308 is a good all around filler.....my .02

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entropy


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posted February 17, 2008 05:34 PM        
"85175K59 and 85175K89 or similar on Pg. 3445..."

perfect! why i didn't think to look on McM-C?????

thanks for the tips

Michael,
thx for the offer of welding, i'm sure i can get it done here, maybe speedninja (chris) who has done Ti welding for me in the past.
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entropy


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posted February 18, 2008 02:10 AM        Edited By: entropy on 18 Feb 2008 02:11
i'm gonna try this stuff:


Super Starter Kit - Black
[SSK-B] $18.00

POR-15 created the SUPER STARTER KIT in response to requests from customers anxious to try out the entire 3-step rust-stopping system, as well as those customers who need to cut oily residue on the metal they plan to paint.

You'll get a 4 oz. can of POR-15 ® (enough to cover 12 square feet), a half-pint of METAL-READY™, two wooden handle paint brushes, and a pair of our special high-dexterity surgical latex gloves, PLUS an 8-ounce bottle of our famous MARINE-CLEAN™, the world's greatest WATER BASED degreaser.

POR-15® is a high-tech, high performance rust-preventive coating designed for application directly on rusted or seasoned metal surfaces. It dries to an incredible rock-hard, non-porous finish that won't chip, crack, or peel, and it prevents rust from recurring by protecting metal from further exposure to moisture. Use it to coat rusty frames, floor pans, farm equipment, marine equipment, or even a heavily corroded battery tray. POR-15® is sensitive to UV light (sun) and must be topcoated for prolonged exposure to sunlight. Topcoating is not required for areas not exposed to sunlight. POR-15® products are designed to work as a complete system. When used together, they provide you with a finish that will not only stop rust, but will also prevent it from returning


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VincentHill


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posted February 18, 2008 11:42 AM        
I used POR 15 in a Honda Magna tank 1984 thgat had rusted all to Hell 0! So badly that I had to take strips of Copper head gasket and silver solder them along the Botton of the tank BEFORE I could JB Weld them then the POR 15. To make it look good, I masked off the bottom of the tank and painted it black to go with the RED Top! The girl that owned the bike (Also from Houston) gave me a $100 tip!
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