aliveagain
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posted August 28, 2007 02:59 PM
rod/starter gear
On assembly,I got the pistons and cylinder on and tried to turn it.Spins nice until #3 rod hits the starter gear.mind you,the gear was already cut down and had no proplems with it hitting before.It is also hitting with the rod body and not the bolt.Only things done were new bearings(rod and crank)rods rebored,and crank trued.Falicon rods were marked apon removal,so the same one went back in,but I can't vouch for the same side forward.Any advice would be appreciated.For those that don't know,this is a 60mm crank in a 2000 zx12r.
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aliveagain
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posted August 28, 2007 04:06 PM
I just looked a little further and the rod backside is also hitting the inside of the starter gear so shimming wouldn't solveit totally.
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aliveagain
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posted August 29, 2007 03:43 AM
I found on the opposite side markings where the rod had been rubbing on the starter gear.My plan is to grind down a high spot where the two halves of the rod meet and if that is not enough then I'll have to have the starter gear cut a little further along with the inside ring.
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ninja12
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posted August 30, 2007 08:02 AM
Are you sure you don't have excessive play in that rod.
Don't make much sense otherwise.
Don't think you should grind the rods.
They should be a balanced set.
Keep us posted.
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TRNorBRN6001
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posted August 31, 2007 06:06 AM
Thats kind of wierd. If you get a chance post a picture. I will see if I have an old picture
stored somewhere of what mine looked like. My starter gear and ring thing were both cut
down by the best machine artist in Houston! If I remember correctly the body on mine
would hit as well.
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aliveagain
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posted August 31, 2007 11:45 AM
http://www.faliconcranks.com/rods.html
that little hump on the 2 piece rod is what I ground down.I don't even think you could measure the weight.I have no camera to post pics
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madmike
Moderator
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posted August 31, 2007 12:07 PM
wow that seems like a hell of a lot of material? wouldnt that make that rod out of balance?
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aliveagain
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posted September 01, 2007 02:32 AM
Mike,you're killing me! It's been bothering me about the starter gear so I'll pull it this weekend and bring it in to the machine shop monday to have the ring cut down.what really bothered me was seeing the marks on the side of the rod,so I want to check the starter gear play.I haven't checked ron ayers yet to see if there is a replacement bushingin there.
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psycho1122
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posted September 01, 2007 05:58 AM
quote:
Falicon rods were marked apon removal,so the same one went back in,but I can't vouch for the same side forward.
Rod orientation will be critical for bearing life. I would double check.
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aliveagain
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posted September 01, 2007 06:14 AM
quote:
quote:
Falicon rods were marked apon removal,so the same one went back in,but I can't vouch for the same side forward.
Rod orientation will be critical for bearing life. I would double check.
Even if there are all new bearings?
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I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger. Then it hit me.
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entropy
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posted September 01, 2007 07:34 AM
pete,
if it wasn't hitting before and its hitting now, and you put the rods back in the holes where you had em, then all i can think of is that you switched front to back on the rod which is hitting.
I aways mark my rods & caps with cyl number and f & back, so that they go back in the same way they came out.
BTW: make sure you have at least .020" clearance between the rod and the starter gear.
BTW#2, you do have the pistons in the cyl when you are rotating the motor, eh??
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aliveagain
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posted September 01, 2007 08:03 AM
#3 rod that is hitting has indentation marks from hitting the last time the motor was running.Thats why I'm concerned about slop in the starter gear.when Carlquist Comp put the rods on the crank for me,(I have no way of measuring stretch)they reversed the rod.Yes, the pistons were in when I checked rotation.how are you measuring the clearance between the rod and gear?
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I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger. Then it hit me.
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entropy
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posted September 01, 2007 09:22 AM
i fold paper until i get about .025" and run it over the gear when the rod passes by.
DEFINITELY get that clearance. I haven't seem problems with the starter gear being sloppy.
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aliveagain
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posted September 01, 2007 10:40 AM
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aliveagain
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posted September 01, 2007 04:01 PM
Just for the old timers,what was the thickness of a match book?Used as a spare to set points.
I pulled the gear and am concerned about shaving the outer ring as it is the reverse side to the snap ring groove.If anyone shimmed the gear,how far did you move it over?I know, until it worked.I'm alittle nervous about the inside ring still having contact with the rod.
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I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger. Then it hit me.
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entropy
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posted September 02, 2007 12:57 PM
i shaved the outer ring, no problem
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aliveagain
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posted September 02, 2007 02:08 PM
How much?
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aliveagain
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posted September 04, 2007 06:58 AM
Just for general knowledge,the ring on my starter was .062 thick and was shaved .020.The machinist said there was more room to go but I'll have to see if it's still making contact.The gear was cut back a little more also.
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I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger. Then it hit me.
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aliveagain
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posted September 14, 2007 06:09 PM
I just got the rod and crank assembly back from Carlquist Comp. eng.Billy said the rod had no noticable weight difference after grinding and he didn't need to balance them.When I asked about the rod bolt stretch,he said Falicons info was completely useless so he had it torqued to 40ftlbs. which equalled to 5 thou stretch for that particular arp bolt.As it happened,the rod I ground was facing the wrong way,but will be no problem to turn it 180 so the grounded surface is facing the starter gear.Maybe this weekend,I'll have a chance to finally start assembling the motor. yeah I'm happy! 
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I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger. Then it hit me.
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