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BIKELAND > FORUMS > DRAGBIKE ZONE.com > Thread: NOS GET THE MOST OUT OF YOUR SYSTEM NEW TOPIC NEW POLL POST REPLY
MadMike


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posted November 29, 2005 04:55 AM        
i have photo's I will post tonight...

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VincentHill


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posted November 30, 2005 10:39 AM        
WHere are the Photo's Mike??
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MadMike


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posted December 01, 2005 10:32 PM        
wow have I been buxy.. crazy..
here they are.





there ya go...
and you guys need to chill out!! he is just trying to share information! take it or leave it. I for one am interested...

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01zx12r


Expert Class
Posts: 338
posted December 02, 2005 05:45 AM        
I agree with Mike, once you start spraying an ass load of Nitrous pulsing the stock solenoids doesnt give a smooth power curve. If I keep my bike I will be checking into these. Thanks very much for the info and thanks for taking the time to explain everything in such detail. Chris
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your car is slow


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Fuck Nitrous...Got Boost?
Posts: 4089
posted December 02, 2005 08:30 AM        
*shrug...I just wanted him to answer some simple questions.
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turbo1320


Novice Class
Posts: 51
posted December 03, 2005 02:30 PM        



The Maximiser unit provides a digital pulse width modulated output to pulse the solenoids to control the flow and hence the power, of a nitrous oxide injection system. It offers a direct replacement for any other manufacturers control system but with the following enhanced features: Simpler to use, more user friendly (on screen operator guide), ready to run without the need for initial setting up (Pre-programmed initial set-up), improved accuracy of timing and power settings, and provision for additional features to be added to the current unit by a simple chip change only.





FEATURES:

Menu 1

Initial Delay:
The time the nitrous system can be delayed from activating after the throttle switch is operated can be adjusted between 0.1 and 9.9 seconds.

Build time:
The time it takes the nitrous power to build up from the "start" percentage to the final power, can be adjusted between 0.1 to 9.9 seconds.

Start Power:
The percentage of full power that is delivered when the system is first activated is adjustable from 15% to 100%.

Final Power:
The percentage of full power that is delivered at the end of the build time is adjustable from 100% to 15%.

Run Timer:
The run time that the nitrous system is activated for, can be adjusted to restrict the system operation to a desired length of time after the initial activation. The range of adjustment for this feature is 4 to 20 seconds.



Menu 2

Burn - Out:**
1) The Burn-Out feature provides an adjustable, pre-settable fixed amount of power to be used during a burn-out. It can be set to a number of operations to allow the user to hold the same power level throughout a static burnout and / or a rolling burnout and / or a dummy launch prior to automatically switching to Race Ready. This feature also has a manual override feature by pressing any of the panel buttons.

2) This feature can also be used to prevent system activation for a single or a number of gears by setting the power level to 0% and adjusting the number of operations, so nitrous activation can be avoided in early gears where traction may be a problem.

Reset options:
The reset feature provides a number of options that can be adjusted so that every time you back off the throttle and go back on it again (e.g. as you go up the gear box), you can pick what power setting or option suits your vehicle best.

1) Build up power level Hold.

2) Reset to the Start power percentage.

3) Reset to a specific percentage power level.**

4) Reset to Start power percentage plus or minus an adjustable percentage.

5) Reset Build time plus or minus an adjustable amount of time.



Nitrous Pressure Offset: **
Activation of a nitrous system (over the period of a run on the drag strip for example) can result in a drop in bottle pressure and this is worse when a relatively small bottle is used with a relatively large jet. This drop in pressure can become a problem and cause the NF ratio to become too rich, resulting in a serious drop in power. This feature allows the Maximiser to take away a percentage of fuel over a set period of time after a chosen delay, so the correct NF ratio can be maintained during the whole run.




Menu 3

Frequency Adjustment:
Different makes of solenoids pulse better at different frequencies. To allow the Maximiser to be used with all makes of solenoids the frequency can be adjusted to the best frequency for optimum results. The range of adjustment for this feature is 8 to 50hz.

Nitrous Delay:
The activation time of the nitrous solenoid can be delayed relative to the fuel, to eliminate the initial lean-out that systems with pipe lengths longer than 3" will suffer from (to some degree - the longer the pipes the worse the problem). The range of adjustment for this feature is 0.01 to 1 second.

Fuel Delay: **
The activation time of the fuel solenoid can be delayed relative to the nitrous, to eliminate initial rich running, which some systems can suffer from if the nitrous and fuel solenoids / injectors are mounted in different locations (eg. on some bikes the nitrous injector may be mounted at the front of the airbox and the fuel injectors fitted in the inlet ports). The range of adjustment for this feature is 0.01 to 1 second.

Ignition Retard Output:
This is an adjustable switched output that can be set to activate at any percentage power level and needs to be connected to an aftermarket ignition system with an externally switched retard feature. The range of adjustment for this feature is 20 and 100%

Max N2O Flow:
Fuel solenoids will work over a wider range of percentage power than nitrous solenoids will, because they work at much lower pressures than nitrous solenoids have to do. For example a fuel solenoid (working at 30 psi) may pulse from as low as 10% and up to as high as 95% but the nitrous solenoid (working at 950 psi) may only pulse over a narrower range of 30% to 60% (for a bad design). This means that when the nitrous has stopped pulsing at 61% and stays full on the fuel solenoid is still pulsing all the way up to 95%. This can result in a very lean mixture and terminal engine failure. This feature allows the operator to match the fuel solenoid full on percentage to that of the nitrous solenoid. U.S. solenoids can switch full on at percentages as low as 60%. Highpower Pulsoids can be as high as 95% (depending on how the lift is adjusted).

Nitrous Contents Indicator: ****

The nitrous contents indicator can be adjusted to your systems jet size and nitrous bottle capacity. Once reset it will display the contents in seconds on the ready screen. As your nitrous contents diminish the time will reduce to represent this. The contents indicator uses quite a complex flow table to calculate the remaining 'nitrous' time available and even takes into account 'progressive power'.

Menu 4



Saved Settings:
This is a data store in which the operator can store up to 10 sets of parameters (programs) which they may want to use at another time after making some adjustments, without having to make notes of each individual setting and reload individually when required. With this unique feature you can save all the settings that have been chosen, in an individual numbered log for reloading at a later date, all at the touch of a couple of buttons.

Test Features:
The Maximiser can be run in 'Test mode' to carry out tests on the unit and the system for basic testing or fault finding. Test features include the ability to individual test the solenoids / outputs, the retard output, test the throttle input and even carry out the 'static test' all at a simple touch of a button.

Upgrades:
Your Maximiser unit can easily be upgraded to Race and/or bottle contents indicator by simply entering a code on the relevant screen. No need to remove it and send it back to us!



General Features:
Pre-programmed ready to use

Cool Blue backlit LCD screen

Power Bar display (shows fuel and nitrous percentage delivery rate)

Carbon Fibre replica facia panel

Touch panel button adjustment rather than breakable knobs

Rugged extruded alloy case (anodised black)

Laser cut and polished stainless steel mounting brackets

Integral wiring loom, no plugs for greater reliability.

Shower proof



Electrical Specifications:
Operating voltage: 8 - 24 V DC

Max current draw (without solenoids): 0.2 amps

Max current outputs: Fuel - 60 amps (for up to 10 seconds continuous), Nitrous - 60 amps (For up to 10 seconds continuous), in English this means up to 4 sets of std pulsoids can be run from one Maximiser, 3 sets of large American solenoids and up to 8 sets of the smaller American solenoids. A remote power Mosfet pack can also be supplied to run systems which will draw more than the maximum current. Retard circuit - 10 amps (for up to 10 seconds continuous)

Dimensions:
7"L x 2.75"H x 1.25"D

Caution:
1) When using any solenoids other than Pulsoids it is likely that a 2nd solenoid will be required as a safety back-up unit. Pulsoids are the only solenoids that will not wear, suffer from seat seal damage or seize open due to pulsing.
2) Solenoids other than Pulsoids will not pulse accurately over the full percentage range of the Maximisers output and may only have an effective range of 40-70%. Pulsoids have an effective range of 10-95% depending on how the seat lift is adjusted.
3) Ordinary fuel solenoids (as supplied by all other nitrous companies) will respond at a different rate to the nitrous solenoid, which can cause engine damage. The Maximiser has features to minimise the above problems but to get the best results from your Maximiser it is advisable to replace your stock solenoids with Highpower Pulsoids for improved vehicle performance.

** FEATURES ONLY AVAILABLE IN 'RACE MODE' AT AN ADDTIONAL COST.

**** BOTTLE CONTENTS FEATURE ONLY AVAILABLE AT AN ADDITIONAL COST.
www.1320straightliners.com









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VincentHill


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posted December 05, 2005 09:43 AM        
quote:
Max current outputs: Fuel - 60 amps (for up to 10 seconds continuous), Nitrous - 60 amps (For up to 10 seconds continuous), in English this means up to 4 sets of std pulsoids can be run from one Maximiser, 3 sets of large American solenoids and up to 8 sets of the smaller American solenoids. A remote power Mosfet pack can also be supplied to run systems which will draw more than the maximum current. Retard circuit - 10 amps (for up to 10 seconds continuous)


Am I reading that as much as 60 Amps can be drawn with this system? we only have 15 to 20 amp batteries. What am I reading wrong here?

What was the MAX Power of this thing?

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tslewisz


Expert Class
Posts: 328
posted December 05, 2005 11:31 AM        

They're saying the Maximiser controller can supply 60 amps. Enough to run x-many solenoids. If you don't have that many to run, it won't supply that much.

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tslewisz


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Posts: 328
posted December 05, 2005 11:34 AM        

Has anybody come out and said that these are Trev of www.noswizard.com 's components and theories we're talking about?

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VincentHill


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posted December 05, 2005 01:03 PM        
That is exactly what I was thinking because I saw this exact same system on Nick's ZRX1200 at the shop Bergie raced out of. The #1 good thing I saw was the fact that you could make "1" Jet change on NOS and "1" for Fuel and the entire system was changed. (as opposed to changing 4 NOS and 4 Fuel jets.

It is supposed to be better and easier, but compared to needing new learning of Old understanding causes the problem here!

Thanks Tslewisz I was not sue one way or the other what he was saying!
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MadMike


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posted December 05, 2005 01:21 PM        
Remember that a Battery that is rated at 15AH does not mean it can only draw 15 amps.., our batteries "can" draw close to 50-60 amps for a short period of time.. and that is if you have the proper cabels to be able to handle that current.. BUT!!!!! this is very very hard on the thin plates within a standard motorcycle battery. and the battery will not live very long at those high current extremes. If you do need to draw that kind of current for a short period of time, I would suggest going with an Odyssey Battery to be able to handle it for sure...

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VincentHill


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posted December 05, 2005 02:26 PM        
quote:
Remember that a Battery that is rated at 15AH does not mean it can only draw 15 amps.., our batteries "can" draw close to 50-60 amps for a short period of time.. and that is if you have the proper cabels to be able to handle that current.. BUT!!!!! this is very very hard on the thin plates within a standard motorcycle battery. and the battery will not live very long at those high current extremes. If you do need to draw that kind of current for a short period of time, I would suggest going with an Odyssey Battery to be able to handle it for sure...



I have a 20AH Battery in my bike and know it operated the 30 Amp fraw of the NX 250 Solenoid. That high draw plus about 1/2 that of draw from the NOS Heater then operate the Bike was more than the bike could handle. That is why I went to a NOS Cheater 250 solenoid that "Only" takes 10 to 12 Amps at WOT

Now, what is an Odessey Battery??
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turbo1320


Novice Class
Posts: 51
posted December 05, 2005 06:23 PM        
NOSWIZARD

quote:

Has anybody come out and said that these are Trev of www.noswizard.com 's components and theories we're talking about?
Yes they are and i will have the new products out soon for the Bikes.You can go from mild to wild,Run low compression with a spacer plate,Run a extra fuel tank in the back of bike with c-16 or you could use methenol with a high pressure 43.5 psi fuel system with return back to extra tank.BUSA EATERS!!!!!

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gunner


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Posts: 5778
posted December 05, 2005 10:13 PM        
quote:
quote:
Remember that a Battery that is rated at 15AH does not mean it can only draw 15 amps.., our batteries "can" draw close to 50-60 amps for a short period of time.. and that is if you have the proper cabels to be able to handle that current.. BUT!!!!! this is very very hard on the thin plates within a standard motorcycle battery. and the battery will not live very long at those high current extremes. If you do need to draw that kind of current for a short period of time, I would suggest going with an Odyssey Battery to be able to handle it for sure...



I have a 20AH Battery in my bike and know it operated the 30 Amp fraw of the NX 250 Solenoid. That high draw plus about 1/2 that of draw from the NOS Heater then operate the Bike was more than the bike could handle. That is why I went to a NOS Cheater 250 solenoid that "Only" takes 10 to 12 Amps at WOT

Now, what is an Odessey Battery??


Odessey is a name brand of a glass matt battery manufacture. I have a Decka Glass Matt in my 12 and when spring come there will be one in the 10 as well. I hate acid

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MadMike


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posted December 06, 2005 10:15 AM        
actually the Odessey is a Pure Lead product. another term is starved electrolite battery, they are different the the AGM batteries you are speaking of. similar, but different.

most of the batteries sold now of days are the maintenance free batteries. you do have to put acid in when brand new, but it is very simple and comes in it's own package. tap on, leave for 5-10 min... tap again. remove put seal top on and that is it for the life of the battery,
but it is also nice to just get the battery and bolt it in. also.... Deka's are cool, but I got to stick with the Interstate.... I did help Entropy with getting him an AGM battery for his 24V starter... I think it is working well.


Vince the battery that is closest to the stock 12 battery is the "PC545" Odessey battery.... it is the one that Fast by Gast buys and sells....if you would like more information let me know and I will see if I can get an indepth, Spec sheet for ya!
MM
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VincentHill


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posted December 06, 2005 11:31 AM        
Thanks MM I always want better!
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turbo1320


Novice Class
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posted December 07, 2005 10:10 PM        
The Mazimizer will be $600.00
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kzz1


Zone Head
"Show me whatcha workin with"
Posts: 908
posted December 07, 2005 11:00 PM        
Can I just take my existing dry kit and move the solnoid close to the nozzle do the same thing?
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turbo1320


Novice Class
Posts: 51
posted December 08, 2005 05:17 AM        Edited By: turbo1320 on 8 Dec 2005 05:19
quote:
Can I just take my existing dry kit and move the solnoid close to the nozzle do the same thing?
Yes you can but there are other things to consider in your system but you are on the right track.If you want more info go to www.noswizard.com then go to the form there is some good info!!!!!!

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