johnnycheese
Pro
Posts: 1008
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posted May 08, 2005 06:10 AM
I guess you don't read
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Builder and tuner of some of the fastest N.A. and P/A Hayabusas and ZX12 /14 in Texas
  
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aliveagain
Needs a life
Posts: 5033
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posted May 10, 2005 09:37 AM
Received the crank and had the journals miked.I'm not even close.My clearances now are.0278 where Doug Meyers recommended .0018 -.0025
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I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger. Then it hit me.
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aliveagain
Needs a life
Posts: 5033
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posted May 10, 2005 10:39 AM
Nothing like double checking the readings.I questioned the machinist on the clearance.New reading puts me at .0027.i'm not sure what to do.It's within Kwasaki's limits and over what Doug said.Seeing as how I can't return the bearings anyway ,at least I can put one rod on and see about the starter gear.
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I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger. Then it hit me.
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aliveagain
Needs a life
Posts: 5033
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posted May 11, 2005 01:27 PM
Had the starter gear ground down today.Sucker was hard and had to use a carbide tip.Learned something new also about nitriding.They tested the hardness of the journals and all the crank journals were 52 rockwell while all the rod's were 30.He recommended not to nitride them as it would only bring the rod up to 38 not very hard.But it would also lower the crank journals to 46.If the rods were a little harder ,he said it would be worth it to have them all close in hardness.The price by the way would have been $85.
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I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger. Then it hit me.
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aliveagain
Needs a life
Posts: 5033
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posted May 11, 2005 01:27 PM
Had the starter gear ground down today.Sucker was hard and had to use a carbide tip.Learned something new also about nitriding.They tested the hardness of the journals and all the crank journals were 52 rockwell while all the rod's were 30.He recommended not to nitride them as it would only bring the rod up to 38 not very hard.But it would also lower the crank journals to 46.If the rods were a little harder ,he said it would be worth it to have them all close in hardness.The price by the way would have been $85.
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I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger. Then it hit me.
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johnnycheese
Pro
Posts: 1008
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posted May 11, 2005 02:38 PM
How does nitriding lower hardness from 52 to 46?????????????
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Builder and tuner of some of the fastest N.A. and P/A Hayabusas and ZX12 /14 in Texas
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aliveagain
Needs a life
Posts: 5033
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posted May 11, 2005 05:38 PM
I don't know.The company came highly recommended and after hearing who farms their work out to them and the fact a business turned away a customer,I have to believe them.Maybe there is a metalurgist as a member here who could tell us.
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I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger. Then it hit me.
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krexken
Zone Head
Posts: 732
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posted May 12, 2005 01:50 PM
Great progress report. Sounds like you're on the right track. I'm guessing your engine was already a 1290? Sounds like you're building a real monster. I've never heard of nitriding rods. Not sure why anyone would either. No way I'd mess with their metallurgy. We nitride sfuff at work because it's slicker. Don't know if it's any harder or not.
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aliveagain
Needs a life
Posts: 5033
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posted May 12, 2005 06:03 PM
My fault Krexken,I'm refering to the rod journal.Kind of neat the way they test it.The tool has a ball that bounces while touching the surface and the higher the bounce the higher the hardness.It leaves no mark on the journal.I believe he said they heat the metal in an oven to 900* for awhile,and that reheating is what takes the hardness out of the main bearing journals.By nitriding,you also run the risk of tweeking the crank some due to heat.I started out with a 1320 billet block and went from there.I washed the parts and started assembly today.The hose was a cramp in the ass but the case is together with the crank ,trans,cam chain.Falicon rods use arp bolts and I ground down a couple to have the insurance against Murphy.I'm not sure about the bolt stretch on the rods as I have no way of measuring it so I torqued to 43 ft/lb and then some.
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I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger. Then it hit me.
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aliveagain
Needs a life
Posts: 5033
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posted May 14, 2005 11:27 AM
Those circlips can be a real bitch.I don't know how anyone else does it but I had the best luck by starting with the closed end at the bottom andpushing them in.I got caught washing the cylinder in the dishwasher and got that genetic female dirty look.I went to oil the cylinders and it came out real grey.So much for washing it in the dishwasher.I usually use paper towels when rebuilding air compressors and it took about 8 towels per cylinder to get them so it wouldn't wipe out any more dust.I tried but it kicked my ass,using one ring compresser to install cylinder.I had 2 in but while working on the next pair ,the first 2 popped back out.Time to walk away so as not to get fustrated.
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I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger. Then it hit me.
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aliveagain
Needs a life
Posts: 5033
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posted May 16, 2005 06:09 PM
The cylinders are starting to kick my ass. I got the 2 center pistons in and went for the outer ones. when I rotated to raise the outer piston the middle ones popped out.I haven't been able to get that far again.Every time I go to slide the cylinder down the pistons cock and then the rings will pop out from the ring compressers.I think I'll start another thread.
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I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger. Then it hit me.
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krexken
Zone Head
Posts: 732
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posted May 16, 2005 06:31 PM
Ring compressor? Is it really necessary? Aren't the bottom of the cyclinders chamfered very well? I've always just used my fingernails and wiggled the block front to back a little bit. Patience, grasshopper. You'll get it.
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aliveagain
Needs a life
Posts: 5033
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posted May 16, 2005 07:17 PM
I have the SuperBike Mike 1320 big block and very little chamfer.Maybe I should try it without the compressers.The rings like to pop out of the grooves too.
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I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger. Then it hit me.
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NINJA12
Needs a job
Posts: 3310
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posted May 17, 2005 07:04 AM
Alive you are right it can be a very hard job alone.
Get another set of hands and eyes, it goes much smoother.
i don't use a ring compressor just a small screw driver to push rings
back into the groove when inserting that piston.
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aliveagain
Needs a life
Posts: 5033
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posted May 17, 2005 02:35 PM
Yeehaw,cylinder went right on tonite.I used 2 pieces of pvc( 1" )and lowered the pistons down on them for support.It makes a big difference as to the ring gap location to slide the pistons in.By using the ring compressers,I was moving the rings around a little bit. If the rings weren't at 6 and 12 oclock, it didn't do any good to rock the cylinder back and forth.It took me a 30 min. tops to get them in with the hardest part being the last 2 piston oil rings.I am a little concerned about not compressing the cylinder down on the spacer and wether that will affect how good the yamabond seals.I'm still waiting on APE to send me another shim for the valve springs, so I can't mount the head.This definately made my day.I have to go to a jail tonite and I didn't want to be all stressed out.I was asked to speak to them to tell my story and see if they want to find a new way to live.
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I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger. Then it hit me.
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aliveagain
Needs a life
Posts: 5033
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posted May 21, 2005 05:10 PM
The head is all torqued down and I got the cams in.The engine turned over good until the I put the cams in and now something stops it.I have the Muzzy adjustable cam sprockets but not the instructions.I installed it like the stock sprockets with the exh and int facing outward in their propective spot.I'm not sure if I was suppose to use the pointers on there instead.I'm pretty sure about the pin count so I'll take them out and try again.I tried doing a search and once again it comes up with every single thread posted.
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I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger. Then it hit me.
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osti33
Needs a job
Posts: 2973
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posted May 21, 2005 08:37 PM
It just stop turning over?? If it turned over good before you put the cams in you might have some valves coming in contact with some pistons.
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aliveagain
Needs a life
Posts: 5033
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posted May 22, 2005 07:42 AM
Well I kind of figured that one out but I still need to know if I install the cams using int/exh markings or the 2 arrows on Muzzy adjustable cam sprockets.
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I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger. Then it hit me.
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aliveagain
Needs a life
Posts: 5033
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posted May 23, 2005 05:37 AM
I got off my butt and tried using the arrow markings on the cam sprockets and all is well.When ECP opens up,I'll bring the motor over to be redegreed.I've been busy with other commitments this past week so its good to be back and making progress.I picked up the motor and put it on a scale just to see what it weighed but unfortunately,I couldn't read the scale.Steel toed shoes when I carry this bad baby over to the truck.
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I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger. Then it hit me.
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aliveagain
Needs a life
Posts: 5033
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posted June 14, 2005 06:15 PM
Well,I finally got my motor back from Freddie Klies.The cams right now are set at 105/102.5 but will probably be readjusted when the motor is broken in and is remapped.I have a bike lift that with cardboard over the arms,made it easy to hoist the motor up and put the bolt in.Then,while lifting the motor with my knee,I slid my truck jack in to catch the engine corner.I reversed the clamps on the right side for the throttle bodies to make it easier next time.I think the hardest part so far is remembering where the fuel lines and wires are routed.I had to lower the engine twice,once for the chain to clear the transmission shaft and the last was to run the fuel hose over the rear top engine mount.My back was killing me being bent over working so long and sweating profusely with this heat,I call it a day and jumped in the pool.
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I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger. Then it hit me.
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aliveagain
Needs a life
Posts: 5033
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posted June 15, 2005 06:26 PM
Took off 1/2 a day and started on the bike.I had to remove several pieces a couple of times because I was unsure of the bolts or the lines weren't right.Started the bike at 6:00 and what a racket,I had to shut it down.Now the impending doom starts to set in and I'm thinking the worst.After eating and a shower,it dawned on me it might be coming from the air box as the ram air wasn't attached yet.That helped but there still was more noises.Reattached the crankcase breather to the top of the head and it quieted right down.ANOTHER TEAM FATASS 1426 ON THE ROAD! I took it out for some fresh gas and the motor was still loud.It sounds like the cam chain tensioner(I hope)and even that quieted on the return trip.So the saga of uh oh winds down after about another $2500 spent and a ton of fun learning about the zx12r and thats part of what motorcycling is all about.
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I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger. Then it hit me.
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osti33
Needs a job
Posts: 2973
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posted June 15, 2005 07:12 PM
Glad you have it on the road... Are you using a manual cam chain tensioner(sp)? That could be the problem. Check your adjustment on that bad boy.
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kzz1
Zone Head
"Show me whatcha workin with"
Posts: 908
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posted June 15, 2005 08:07 PM
Cool! Now go break it in and take her to the strip 
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entropy
Moderator
Posts: 8671
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posted June 16, 2005 12:07 AM
AA,
yank the plugs and do a cold cranking pressure test for ea cylinder; its just a good check.
Glad to see that you are running again!
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ninja12
Needs a job
Posts: 3310
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posted June 16, 2005 12:40 AM
How did you adjust the cam tentioner?
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