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BIKELAND > FORUMS > DRAGBIKE ZONE.com > Thread: zx12 rods NEW TOPIC NEW POLL POST REPLY
wezze93


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Posts: 127
posted November 11, 2004 07:42 PM        
zx12 rods

have anyone had a zx12 stock rod to break

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NINJA12


Needs a job
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posted November 12, 2004 09:21 AM        
yeap
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entropy


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Posts: 8671
posted November 12, 2004 06:02 PM        
a rod that broke without any bearing (oiling) problem????
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osti33


Needs a job
Posts: 2973
posted November 12, 2004 06:40 PM        Edited By: osti33 on 12 Nov 2004 18:43
I've never seen one actually "break". Unless like Entropy said it was an oiling problem...Then they can get pretty messed up. Did you "break" a rod??

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wezze93


Expert Class
Posts: 127
posted November 12, 2004 07:56 PM        
no i spun 2 bearing an im thanking about a stroker an like to know if the stock rod will hold up with a 100 shot
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entropy


Moderator
Posts: 8671
posted November 12, 2004 08:43 PM        
#2 rod bearing is the 1st to go (last in the oiling schematic), meyer always says go w/OEM's.
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TurboBlew


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posted November 13, 2004 07:46 AM        
...till the 300hp level.
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psycho1122


Pro
Posts: 1608
posted November 13, 2004 10:03 AM        
I have to disagree one this one guys..............

#2 & #4 main crank bearings each have a DEDICATED feed off the main oil passage of the system. Each bearing feeds TWO rods. Anything else receiving oil from the main oil passage is properly metered. Big K learned from the ZX10/11 engine series mistakes.
PROPER main bearing clearance is critical for rod life "up to" 500 h.p.

The rods in the 12 engine are "BAD ASS" to say the least.

I can not say that much for the 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears on the output shaft!!

BTW.....This is why I've said before that the oil pump rotor condition is crucial! It does NOT receive filtered oil from the pan. You would be surprised to see how nicked up the lobes get even on a relatively new stocker! It is cheap and easy to replace on a regular basis.
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ninja12


Needs a job
Posts: 3310
posted November 14, 2004 07:00 AM        
Don't know which came first the chicken or the egg.
the rod went after i missed a shift on nitrous.
Actually missed shift on one pass , checked the motor with my calibrated ear, no unusually noise or vibration.
NExt pass
threw oil all over the track like a Chevy.
Big window in the motor,cyclinder destroyed, #3 exhaust valves bent, #3 rod in 4 pieces, rod bolt broke.

Maybe carillo's won't help, but I am going to give them a chance.
Cases are $800+ , cyclinder $150, bore and plate ~$500 =Almost $1500 plus a piston.
Sure sound bad compared to crank repair $250, new rod $200 and bearing
$50= $500 if the rod didn't brake.
With stock rods it will cost you $80 worth of rod bolts every time you look at the rods.

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