Warlord

Expert Class
Posts: 135
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posted July 08, 2004 02:52 PM
Ceramic Bearins
Are the Ceramic bearins worth the money?
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WarLord
04 Black ZX10R (Sold)
09 Green ZX14 (Sold)
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CrotchRocket

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Bracket Racing with Betsy
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posted July 08, 2004 03:51 PM
If you saw how long a front and rear wheel spins with the ceramic bearings, then you would say yes!!!...Added with a non o-ring chain, it spins forever, well almost...
Caution: Do not use them on the street!!!
Or you can remove the protective cover over the OEM bearings and put 90wt. oil on them and they spin longer then off the showroom...
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TurboBlew

Moderator
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posted July 08, 2004 05:52 PM
If you're searching for that last 1/10th or 2....yes they are worth it.
I dont think I agree with Crotch on the non oring chain though.
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RAC4IT

Needs a job
Bergie
Posts: 3009
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posted July 08, 2004 06:27 PM
I plan to experiment with them at maxton
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BA

Pro
Posts: 1592
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posted July 08, 2004 07:45 PM
I agree with TurboBlew that they are only worth it if you race a lot and are willing to spend $300 or whatever for just a few hundreths. It's part of the search for every last ounce of ET/power.
They might become a bear to keep oiled if you put many street miles on your bike though.
Unlike TB though, I do like the non O-ring chain! I clean it every couple/few hundred miles though.
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wezze93

Expert Class
Posts: 127
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posted July 08, 2004 08:42 PM
Or you can remove the protective cover over the OEM bearings and put 90wt. oil on them and they spin longer then off the showroom...
what kind of oil are you talking about an how do you do it do you remove the grease firt
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your car is slow

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posted July 08, 2004 09:28 PM
90wt is pretty much gear oil...avail at most automotive stores (pepboys/autozone/etc)
Never tried that particular idea..but hey..ill give it a shot
id imagine it would be quite a chore to remove the current grease from the bearings however.
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TurboBlew

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posted July 08, 2004 09:34 PM
BA, on a strip duty bike, it really doesnt kill that much hp with an oring chain...vs a non oring.
Only difference is the non oring is maintenance intensive. An oring chain with WD40 works pretty good.
But like Carry Andrew claimed in an interview... "Its all about the basics".
He always kept the simple things in check like bearings, chain tension, proper axle torque, etc.
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DR JOE
Expert Class
Posts: 352
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posted July 09, 2004 06:48 AM
Warlord
I put a set of these on a friends busa and it pushes like a 400 street bike it makes the bike feel very lite to push. Do I think it's worth the $395. a set ?? To me yes, to someone else no. I would rather do that then many other mods that are out there. I would do lite weight rims and ceramic bearings then other mods first. My ZX12 is a full time drag bike so it's easy for me to say this. Talk to dave a World Wide Bearings and he can tell you all you would ever want to know about bearings.
And incase your wondering if you can find them cheaper someplace else please let me know. His prices were about $50. to $75. buck cheaper per bearing. Did some looking on the net and local bearing suppliers.
DR JOE
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BA

Pro
Posts: 1592
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posted July 09, 2004 05:16 PM
Edited By: BA on 9 Jul 2004 23:15
TB, I know we all have different experiences, but, my rear wheel spins NOTICEABLY easier with no o-rings than with the stock chain ever did. AND, I even purchased a new DID 530ERV, or whatever it is, and still, the no o-ring spins more freely.
For me, it translated to slightly better times at the strip. You know how it is, ....you do like 6 different little things and they add up to a tenth at the strip, but ya gotta do them all!
I'm not saying you're wrong because I'm sure you did testing too. I think we just got different experiences with it.
I kept the same sprockets and 530 size for both chains...
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RAC4IT

Needs a job
Bergie
Posts: 3009
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posted July 09, 2004 06:42 PM
did you stick with the same size chain and sprockets or goto a lighter duty chain at the same time? something I'm thinking about doing for maxton.
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TurboBlew

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posted July 09, 2004 08:51 PM
Bergie... a 520 conversion is about 2lbs lighter overall.
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CrotchRocket

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posted July 09, 2004 09:35 PM
Bergie for the 12 and Busa nobody does the lighter conversion chain, I was told its not a good idea due to the power of the bikes...Or are you talking about for the ZX10???...I think Norm has the conversion on his 10...
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Ra12r

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posted July 10, 2004 05:51 AM
I had (mandatory) to go with the nonOring chain because of chain stretch. I bought a new oring (strongest tensil i could find) and stretched it the first day. The chain kept stretching that day until it start clicking on the sprocket. My point,,,,,,,after a certain amount of HP, you cannot use an oring chain any more. PS, my rear tire spins much more free with an nonOring chain too.
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Hells Dark Lord

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posted July 10, 2004 06:47 AM
I would never run a 520 conversion on a liter size bike, you will stretch the chain in a minute and not to mention the sprockets wont handle that kind of HP......we run 520 conversions on 600cc bike on a road course, but the only do 1 drag race style launch per race, and are always revved high, so there is constant load on them.......Even on the 600's we only get at most a season out of a chain.....I dont imagine that you would get one to last ong on a bike bike......I can see drilling out the rotors and using aluminum sprockets to loose some weight on it, but not a 520 conversion.......JMO
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TurboBlew

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posted July 10, 2004 01:24 PM
Ra12... I find that hard to believe. Which chain did you switch to? The DID ZVX wont stretch more than 1/2" tops, even with 400hp put to it. Hands down thats the best chain out there.
HDL, Zhooligan ran a 520 on his 250+ hp stroker 12. Being the perfectionist he was... he changed the chain every 6,000 miles. I see no reason why a stocker and any motor up to 250hp couldnt handle it.
If you were making 160lb ft of torque then Id only run a 530 chain.
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Hells Dark Lord

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posted July 10, 2004 03:38 PM
but did Don drag race his bike? I thought he was a twisty guy......there is a big difference in the loads put on the chain by the 2 differnt types of riding....
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