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ninjamissile

Expert Class
Posts: 222

posted February 06, 2004 04:46 AM

Schnitz EFIR BOX

Just bought a efir retard box from Schnitz. Is it easy to install? any tips?. I have a muzzy ign advancer at the mo set to +5. I want the box to retard back to zero once the nitrous kicks in. Am I right in thinking that anything over a 50 shot and I'll need to retard 1 degree.

Cheers guys

NM

RAC4IT

Needs a job
Bergie
Posts: 3009

posted February 06, 2004 05:49 AM

The wiring is simple. It patches into the two wires leading to your ignition advancer pickup. It also has power, ground, and signal input to activate the retard function. I did a detailed review of this last year including photos and article maybe do a search to find it.

RAC4IT

Needs a job
Bergie
Posts: 3009

posted February 06, 2004 05:50 AM

Here is the link

http://www.bikeland.org/board/viewthread.php?FID=1&TID=6418

RAC4IT

Needs a job
Bergie
Posts: 3009

posted February 06, 2004 05:52 AM

Schnitz Racing EFIR-12 Timing Retard Module

Schnitz Racing Product Catalog Link
http://secure.cartsvr.net/catalogs/catalog.asp?prodid=1714003

What is it?
The EFIR-12 allows the user to retard the ignition timing on the ZX-12R, all model years. Primary use is to pull a specified amount of timing out on demand when using nitrous or boost applications, rather than having to custom map out timing.

This is useful so that you can set advanced timing using a PC3R or mechanical advance for optimal engine performance when naturally aspirated, and pull some timing out only when spraying or as needed.

Despite the description on the Schnitz website this unit does NOT plug directly into the factory wiring harness. It will require replacing the existing connectors (Schnitz supplies some) or soldering the wiring directly in line.

The device is 12 volt activated. It is designed to connect right up to your nitrous solenoids or a pressure switch on your turbo bike, and retard the timing to save your engine. The amount of timing retard is programmable using dipswitches from 0-16 degrees of timing retard, and also has dipswitches to adjust the built time from .1 to 3 seconds.

When the device receives a +12V signal it activates the specified amount of retard. Note there is -1 degree of timing built in to the module so even when set at "zero" the device is pulling -1 degree.

The unit lists for $274.95 directly from Schnitz Racing.

Install Photos
http://www.dontbescaredracing.com/photos/efir12/

Configuring the EFIR-12
Four screws secure the faceplate, removing the faceplate reveals the dipswitches for setting both timing retard (in degrees) and time delay ramp (in seconds). There is also a "hold and resume" or "reset always" switch that does exactly what you assume, it either holds and resumes the retard from where it left off or will start over and reset the time and timing ramp from zero should you lift off the button (or activation) momentarily. In our dry nitrous application "always reset" will be used since we are not ramping up the timing retard over time, we just want to pull out a certain amount whenever nitrous is activated.

The box is clearly labeled with the instructions on the inside of the cover which ensures you'll always be able to make quick changes at the track.

We choose to set -4 degrees for use with our 40hp dry nitrous kit. Because we run +3 degrees of advance for optimal power naturally aspirated, this setting will yield a total of -1 degree timing which is safe for our current jetting.

Although the EFIR-12 looks fairly weather resistant, but I would recommend mounting it in a safe place to prevent any possible water damage.

We chose to mount ours in the tailsection on the rear fender next to our Schnitz DCS-101 Progressive Nitrous Controller. Any location in the tailsection should work fine. The EFIR-12 comes with mounting hardware but we used velcro, doublesided tape would also work but velcro allows easy movement of the box whenever necessary.

Installation
Disconnect the OEM crank trigger / ignition pickup at the plug near the clutch cover. The factory connector is not compatible with the EFIR-12, so as mentioned it will need to be replaced or removed. The wiring may be tucked up out of sight, just give it a tug until you see the factor connector and unplug it. The crank trigger side will have two wires- yellow, and black. The ECU wiring side coming from under the battery area will have two wires- a brown with a red stripe, and a yellow with a black stripe.

We decided to patch our EFIR12 directly in, without using any plug-in style connectors. Since the factory stuff didn't fit, I feel more comfortable with soldering the connections securely. After all this is our ignition timing source! Schnitz did include some decent replacement connectors, but they are difficult to assemble and we didn't bother, soldering them will also reduce installation time.

After snipping off the factory connector, lift the fueltank and disconnect the CENTER computer wiring harness (this is also where your powercommander would patch in... for those who have PC3Rs) and pull the factory harness (a brown with a red stripe, and a yellow with a black stripe) back through so you will have more room to work with as shown in this photo:

Once you have pulled the connector thru, plug the wiring harnesses back together as they were. If you have a PC3R, go ahead and re-route the Y-patch connectors in a suitable fashon so that everything is nice and tidy as shown here:

Go ahead and route the factory ECU ignition pickup wires under the frame, following the factory harness just like your PC3R. You should end up with something as shown:

You can also take the time to re-route any PC3R wiring if necessary. There is a small recess in the fender for such routing.

The EFIR-12 splices into the factory wiring. There are two pairs of wires on the EFIR-12, one set is green and blue, the other set is green and white.

At this point we are wiring to the oem harness, so our green and white pair from the EFIR-12 will be soldered to the brown w/red stripe and yellow w/black stripe pair. The EFIR-12 green wire will be soldered to the factory brown w/red stripe wire, and EFIR-12 white solders to the factory yellow w/black stripe, as shown here:

Be sure to use quality solder and heatshrink tubing. If you're going to use the Schnitz supplied connectors, be sure to take your time and assemble them properly!

Now that the first connection is patched in, go ahead and route the other wires (green and blue coming from the EFIR-12) along the original route and cover with wiring loom.

When routing the green and blue wires, take your time and follow the original path under the factory plug-in harnesses back up under the battery tray and out near the clutch cover. Also be sure to cover the wiring in loom for protection from the elements as shown here:

You may end up with some extra slack in the wiring, so trim as needed. Now we are going to patch in the EFIR-12 (blue and green) to the factory crank ignition crack trigger pickup (yellow and black).

The EFIR-12 green will be soldered to the yellow wire on the factory pickup. EFIR blue will be soldered to the factory black wire, as shown here:

Now cover in protecting loom and double-check routing

Power and ground for the EFIR-12 is relatively simple. Ground is routed and connected to the rear-brake fluid mounting bolt (also where our PC3R is grounded), and +12V switched is routed through the battery tray access hole in the frame as shown here:

On the battery tray main harness we will pickup +12V SWITCHED power (not contstant) from the yellow w/white stripe wire. This ensures power to the EFIR-12 module whenever the key is ON.

Power when the key is on ONLY is required, a) because the bike will not run without power to the EFIR-12 and b) you do not want to use a constant power otherwise the battery will drain and die.

Using a sharp object such as the tip of a testlight or even a paperclip, you can remove the factory wire from the plug without damaging it, then solder on your new connection as shown, and reconnect.

The final step is to connect our activation wire to the solenoids, or in our case, to the activation signal from our progressive nitrous controller. This yellow wire will activate the timing retard module whenever it receives a +12V signal.

I will post a full product review here and on the website once we have tested the EFIR-12 on the dyno.

Also my next tech session will cover wiring the Schnitz DCS-101 progressive nitrous controller... stay tuned!

ninjamissile

Expert Class
Posts: 222

posted February 06, 2004 07:17 AM

Thanks Bergie

NM

JUNGLE JOE