greengoblin
Parking Attendant
Posts: 5
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posted June 20, 2003 07:32 PM
Brake Question!
I changed my front tire yesterday and now I don't have front brakes. I bled them today 4 times and still the same problem. No air in the lines ( I bled them with an air brake bleeder). When i pump the lever I get pressure but when I roll or ride thebike down the road or in the yard them level loses al pressure and goes all the way to the grip. I have checked the calipers and looked for leaks, tightened all bolts and fittings and still the problem persists. My friend thinks it could be the master cylinder, but the brakes worked before I changed the front tire. The lines are steel braided so I don't think they are cut and as I said I don't see any leaks. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks, Ron
  
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RAC4IT
Needs a job
Bergie
Posts: 3009
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posted June 20, 2003 08:59 PM
 Edited By: RAC4IT on 20 Jun 2003 22:01
air in the line, bleed them again and check your method to make sure it's correct, then pump the brake lever up and ziptie it to the handle, let it sit for a couple hours and re-check.
Also re-read this post:
http://www.bikeland.org/board/viewthread.php?FID=9&TID=7324
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your car is slow
Needs a job
Fuck Nitrous...Got Boost?
Posts: 4089
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posted June 20, 2003 10:29 PM
man...I had to bleed my brakes for nearly an hour (and countless pumps over and over and over) before I got them to work...it was nuts.
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Do not taunt happy fun ball!
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greengoblin
Parking Attendant
Posts: 5
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posted June 20, 2003 11:23 PM
Thanks RAC4It, I am going to try your suggestion. I used my friends air powered bleeder that he uses at work and another friends manual system to bleed the brakes. By the way how would air have gottenit the lines when all I did was change the tire? I will re-read the article. Thanks again, Ron
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your car is slow
Needs a job
Fuck Nitrous...Got Boost?
Posts: 4089
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posted June 21, 2003 09:34 AM
ok...perhaps a silly question...but is the resivoir filled and sealed properly?
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Do not taunt happy fun ball!
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slug
Pro
Out in search of my mind...
Posts: 1433
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posted June 21, 2003 03:44 PM
something to try, when you have the pressure on the system, with copious rags available and set up, crack the banjo bolt at the master cylinder, check for escaping air.
if you get air out, repeat until none shows. make sure the reservoir is filled up, then level bike and check again for pressure. if you lose pressure, check for something loose between reservoir and master cylinder
as far as why after changing the tire, did you have to compress the pistons back into the calipers when you put wheel back on? even just a little bit to make it easier to lineup? maybe something went south when you did that...who knows. youcould check your calipers for something weird as well.
but if it goes away only when bike is level....the only thing that can change is reservoir level....
  
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aliveagain
Needs a life
Posts: 5033
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posted June 21, 2003 06:02 PM
Why would you need to bleed the brake fluid after changing a tire?Are all four brake pads in place or did one of them slip down?
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I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger. Then it hit me.
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greengoblin
Parking Attendant
Posts: 5
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posted June 21, 2003 11:00 PM
The problem I am having happened after I changed the tire without doing anything to the brakes other than removing the calipers intact from the forks. No the pads did not slip down. I tried the method RAC4IT suggested and it didn't work so I am going to bleed the brakes again and try his suggestion again if it doesn't work. Thanks for the responses guys... Ron
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flite leader
Zone Head
Posts: 651
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posted June 22, 2003 01:52 AM
if you are bleeding down your lines that much
you should have gotten all the air out long ago
check everywhere for any type of leak
if no leaks
more than likely youve lost a seal in your master cylinder
its a possibilty
good luck
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bend your mind.....
or break your ass...!!
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Mika14R
Novice Class
Posts: 50
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posted June 22, 2003 02:32 AM
Check that brake discs are good and straight.
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zx11_12
Expert Class
Posts: 207
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posted June 22, 2003 03:36 AM
I had a car do the exact same thing once. It turned out to be a wheel bearing was just lose enough to let the wheel and disk move sideways and push my pads back. when I hit the brakes, I had none because the pistons were back and needed to be pumped back out againt the brakes every time. Maybe you should check your tire for any side to side play, and your disks to e sure they are true as well.
Steve
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"There is only one basic human right, the right to do as you damn well please. And with it comes the only basic human duty, the duty to take the consequences."
PJ O'Rourke
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aliveagain
Needs a life
Posts: 5033
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posted June 22, 2003 05:49 PM
you get pressure when you pump the brake lever.So did you kink the brake line in the removal or installation of the wheel?Teflon tubing inside steel braided covering might be pinched.
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I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger. Then it hit me.
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sagot
Zone Head
Posts: 779
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posted June 23, 2003 12:35 PM
Is the wheel on the right way? The arrow should point in the direction of spin. If the disks are in the wrong calipers they wont work for shit!
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Blank
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greengoblin
Parking Attendant
Posts: 5
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posted June 28, 2003 08:39 PM
Found the problem, slightly warped clutch side rotor. Works great now and the trick with tying the front lever did improve the firmness of the lever. Thanks guys for all or your input... Ron
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TurboBlew
Moderator
BUSY DOING THE SCHIAVO
Posts: 4590
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posted June 29, 2003 09:03 AM
Green, can I buy the warped rotor from you?? Shoot me an email
THanks!
a750turbo@dragbike.com
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r21xz
Expert Class
Posts: 109
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posted June 29, 2003 12:11 PM
You fixin' warped ones,Turbo?
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EastBayDave
Needs a job
Posts: 2245
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posted June 29, 2003 02:21 PM
I haven't heard of anyone riding hard enough to warp ZX12 disk rotors; or was it bailed?
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Enjoy the ride!
02' ZRX1200
00' ZX12R sold
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frEEK
Administrator
ummm... yeah
Posts: 9660
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posted June 29, 2003 06:40 PM
my first set warped at about 30,000kms (i think). didnt ride it all _that_ hard either. but they did warp, and the dealer (burnaby kawasaki) warrantied it! definitely wasnt expecting that. very cool.
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greengoblin
Parking Attendant
Posts: 5
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posted June 29, 2003 07:31 PM
The rotor was only slighlty bent. We made a simple feeler gauge to find the bent area and used an adjustable wrench to bend in enough where there was about i/3 brake lever, rode it a couple of miles to heat the rotors and true them. It works fine now, actually the lever is firmer now.
Ron
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ScaredyCat
Expert Class
Posts: 201
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posted July 06, 2003 04:43 AM
Are these discs cast iron or steel? Can't see much chance of bending a cast one.
And I'd make sure I had a new one ready by my side before I tried it on even a steel one!
I've had loads of hassle with bleeding Kawa brakes, been through tying the lever back overnight (that works well), but I found regular stripping and "exercising" of the caliper pistons works well (sometimes the dist seals stick and make the piston squeeze back out from the disc). Also a good dose of coppergrease over the piston keeps the shit at bay.
Never stripped a six-potter yet though.
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If it ain't broke, BREAK IT.
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