X-ZZR-Guy
Parking Attendant
Posts: 11
|
posted June 14, 2003 11:33 PM
Running in new bike
Hi guys and girls,
I'm sure this one has been discussed before, but I can't find it.....
I'm picking up a new ZX12 tomorrow - this is the first time I've had the bucks to afford a *new* bike, and while I am pissing my pants with excitement I am pretty shocked at the running-in instructions:
0-500 miles: 4000 rpm max
500-1000 miles: 6000 rpm max
(And yes, I know that 4000 rpm is probably pretty fast in 6th gear) :-))
I've heard very conflicting reports on running-in and piston ring sealing. The first school of thought is something like:
1) Fully synthetic oil from the word go
2) Very gentle revs and acceleration for the first thousand or more miles
The other side says:
1) Good quality mineral oil (Shell Helix Super or equivalent) for the first thousand or so miles
2) Take it very easy for the first 20-50 miles then do an oil change
3) Then heavy loading on an intermittent basis, varying revs with good cooldown periods for the first 1000 miles
The argument is that the first method can leave you with "glazed bores", the slippiness of modern fully synth oil can prevent any running-in taking place, and also inhibit running in in the future. From experience, I know of ZX11 owners who have had highish oil consumption despite using fully synthetic oil from 0 miles.
The second argument sounds better to me because:
I can "give it the berries" sooner
I will get better sealed rings
Good quality mineral oil is at the top end of that specified in the manual
The engine bottom-end doesn't "run-in" anyway, as plain bearings have no metal-metal contact.
A friend of mine used mineral oil on his Honda SP1 for the first 4000 miles before relenting and giving her a good drink of synthetic - his bike now doesn't use oil and at oilchanges the oil is still translucent.
So my plan is to get it home (about 60 miles), change the oil for Shell Helix Super, and not pay too much attention to rev limits from then on (maybe keep under 8000 for the first 500 miles). Occasional hard acceleration and oil changes every 200 miles for the first 1000. Anyway, I'm planning on getting the first 1000 miles done in the next couple of weeks!
Does this sound reasonable to anyone?
Also, I am planning on doing a bit of touring later, and only just realised the tank range - eek! What's the normal solution - carry a jerry-can on the back? Anyone do bigger tanks?
Cheers for any advice
  
|
fish_antlers
Administrator
The Truth is Out There
Posts: 21895
|
posted June 15, 2003 10:39 AM
I cant comment on the type of oil as that is infact a point which people argue about, however I would recommend that you closely follow Kawi's break in period.... it is longer than normal as in 00 they had problems and ended up extending the break in period to solve the run in issues... It will be worth the wait....
You can get a bigger tank made from CF.... expect terrible mileage from the bike... nothing you can do about that other than laying off the throttle (if you can  ) ...
welcome aboard ... I'm sure people here will have more input on this.
Make sure you double check your steering head bearings at about 2000kms
____________
What business is it of yours where I'm from, Friendo?
|
jonwright
Needs a job
Posts: 2416
|
posted June 15, 2003 04:36 PM
Yep. Follow Kawasaki's book. Put in the oil they recommend. I've HEARD to use dino oil for break in then switch to synth later on.
Beats the shit out of me if that's worth doing or not.
|
ZHooligan
Moderator
Post Whore Extraordinaire!
Posts: 3829
|
posted June 15, 2003 08:30 PM
Change to synthetic after a couple thousand miles or more. And following Kawi's breakin recomendations seems to work.
____________
To those who do not count their life in years, but in how life
has touched them in the past and how much it can hold in the
future; -- Youth is forever.
|
flite leader
Zone Head
Posts: 651
|
posted June 15, 2003 09:28 PM
 Edited By: flite leader on 15 Jun 2003 22:31
sounds like you are in europe
follow KHI's advice
i would suggest you stay out of city traffic as much as possible
the idling & heat build up is never good for an engine
the manual also advise varying throttle
within constraints
pick a route that will do that
have somewhere to go
visit folks you havent seen in a while
take the unusual route
& enjoy your new bike
____________
bend your mind.....
or break your ass...!!
|
X-ZZR-Guy
Parking Attendant
Posts: 11
|
posted June 16, 2003 07:45 AM
Thanks for the tips, I'll try to keep the revs down.......
I eventually went for Mobil mineral oil, I'll switch to synthetic probably at about 2000 miles.
I also found out that the oil I was planning to use was no good, apparently it causes clutch slippage.
I also found out about the thirstiness of the engine today - those first few bars on the fuel gauge don't last long! A small price to pay for this kind of performance though!
And I LOVE the bike - definately the right choice!
Cheers
|
fish_antlers
Administrator
The Truth is Out There
Posts: 21895
|
posted June 16, 2003 07:55 AM
your clutch will slip anyways... start saving for a Muzzy clutch.... the stocker is garbage.
____________
What business is it of yours where I'm from, Friendo?
|
fish_antlers
Administrator
The Truth is Out There
Posts: 21895
|
posted June 16, 2003 07:57 AM
x
____________
What business is it of yours where I'm from, Friendo?
|
|
|
HOME
NEW TOPIC