rubber pants
Zone Head
Posts: 798
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posted June 09, 2003 09:01 AM
How to line up rear wheel perfectly????
How do I line up the rear wheel perfectly without using those scribe marks? Just wanted to get the rear wheel perfectly in line with the front. I don't trust those scribe marks. Any easy way on this machine? Thanks!
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swft
Needs a life
Full throttle!
Posts: One MEEEEEELLION
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posted June 09, 2003 09:05 AM
Bring me your bike. Take a taxi home. I'll let you know when it's done!
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DaveInDaytona
Pro
Posts: 1696
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posted June 09, 2003 09:09 AM
Follow this link http://www.muzzys.com/catalog/tools.html
And find this tool:
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DaytonaSportbikes Forum
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jonwright
Needs a job
Posts: 2416
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posted June 09, 2003 10:07 AM
Basically I just look at the teeth in the sproket to the links in the chain. You can tell when it's in the middle and aligned. Adjust the chain, then spine the wheel a couple of times and that's it.
Kinda pain in the ass, but it's possible. I know have it down to a couple of minutes once you figure out which way to pull the wheel depending upon where the teeth are in the sproket.
I use the scribe marks to get close. Then eyeball from there.
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AnotherRedHead
Expert Class
Posts: 348
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posted June 09, 2003 12:33 PM
I just install the socket thats used to take off the chrome nuts, on the swingarm pivot.I then set my chain tension where I want it on the chain side...and get the other side close. I then take a welding rod from our tig machine, and but it up against the socket....and lay it all the way back towards the adjuster block.....parrelel with the bike. I mark the rod JUST where it touches the front surface of the adjuster block. I take it to the other side, install the socket there (to give a uniform mounting point), and adjust that side to the same mark, at the same point on the adjuster block. Its worked perfect for me.....on a bike with a stock pipe, it might not work. I have a stepped hindle, so it takes 2 secs to take the midsection off...giving a clear shot for both sides...so I can lay the rod next to the swingarm. Did I confuse anyone 
Chris (under nicks account)
AMS ProCycles 60" Zx12
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GOZR
Zone Head
GOZR
Posts: 716
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posted June 09, 2003 07:19 PM
Yea!! i'm never happy with it i'll have to get the tool..
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-G
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ZHooligan
Moderator
Post Whore Extraordinaire!
Posts: 3829
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posted June 09, 2003 07:26 PM
I'm a tad old fashioned. I set the bike on a rear stand, then I adjust it to where I want it to be as far as tension is concerned and then I get down and eyeball the chain and rear sprocket. What I look for is how the sprocket lays on and comes off of the chain as it is rotated. The ide being that if the chain front and rear sprocket are in alignment the rear sprocket will ride in the center of thechain. If you are out of alignment you will seethe chain sideplates actually touch the sprocket as the chain rolls on and off of the sprocket. As an additional check I use my tape measure for a quick check from the swing arm pivot to the center of the rear axle.
Sounds a little complicated but actually is pretty easy.
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To those who do not count their life in years, but in how life
has touched them in the past and how much it can hold in the
future; -- Youth is forever.
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worm~hole
Needs a life
Miles to go before I sleep....
Posts: 10623
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posted June 10, 2003 02:46 AM
...the 'string' method...
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stand ready in the night to visit violence on those
who would do us harm.”
-George Orwell
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TurboBlew
Moderator
BUSY DOING THE SCHIAVO
Posts: 4590
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posted June 10, 2003 03:07 AM
Tape measure. 
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Official Charter Member of the RIDERS OF KAWASAKI MEMBERSHIP REVOCATION CLUB
Also a BadAss Internet Forum Moderator 4 Hire!! Come at me brah!
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EastBayDave
Needs a job
Posts: 2245
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posted June 10, 2003 06:05 AM
quote:
...the 'string' method...
me too....but I really want a "Henter Wheel Alinement Tool."
(ok history buffs....who remembers those?)
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Enjoy the ride!
02' ZRX1200
00' ZX12R sold
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jonwright
Needs a job
Posts: 2416
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posted June 10, 2003 06:30 AM
Yep, Zdrool, that's what I do. You, in your excellent eloquence, have explained it much better than I.
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VincentHill
Needs a life
Posts: 6520
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posted June 10, 2003 07:08 AM
I made a tool, back in the 80's to handle the concentric adjustors I had on my Rob North swingarm.
I bought 3 lengths of harden aluminum 1/8 x 1 x 6 feet and laid them about 7 inches apart. Then I cut 4 - 1 foot lengths and laid 1 at each end and the other 2 - 2 feet from each end.
I then pop rivited them cross pieces to 1 side at 90 degree angles and on the other side so that you can squeeze the two sides against the tire, I placed a 1 inch long piece on both sides of the cross piece and pop rivited a 3 inch piece over this.
When finished, it looks like a 6 foot ladder with uneven steps.
To align, I roll the bike over the tool and set it on a shop stand. Then I squeeze the tool on to the rear tireso it is about 4 to 6 inches above the bottom of the tire and put 4x4 blocks under the tool before and after the front wheel on both sides.
I take my vernier caliper and measure the 2 sides until they are all the exact same distance apart from front to rear.
Now I am ready to adjust.
I carefully lift the front of the tool and lay it back down and measure the distance from 2 points on the rim on both sides of the front wheel. I make adjustments in back (Each time lifting the front of the toolso I can see any movement). When I get the exact same measurement from all 4 places on the rim. I am in perfect alignment! Then I take a sharp chissel and mark the swingarm and the adjustors.
For future adjustments, I take the Vernier Calipers and measure from the Swingarm marks to the axle adjustors. Proof of the pudding is at Maxton, not a wiggle at top speed on that POS Swingarm I have. If you look close, you can see the marks on the picture I posted.
I Know, I will Drag it out and take a Picture mounted so you can see what I am talking about! Total cost about $20.00 but perfect in alignment!
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frEEk
Administrator
ummm... yeah
Posts: 9660
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posted June 10, 2003 10:28 AM
that's brilliant vince! best idea i'v heard of so far.
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VincentHill
Needs a life
Posts: 6520
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posted June 10, 2003 12:54 PM
quote:
that's brilliant vince! best idea i'v heard of so far.
WOW, you were actually able to picture what I was doing? WHen I posted this, All I kept saying is, no one will know or understand what the "F" I am talking about, but I will post a Picture so it can be seen!
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frEEk
Administrator
ummm... yeah
Posts: 9660
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posted June 10, 2003 02:59 PM
once u described it as a ladder, it immediately clicked. it's such an obvious idea, just one that no-one thinks of. this way u can also check that ur front & rear are in the same longitudal alignment, not just angular alignment. i suspect my bike in off in that department, so i'll have to try copying ur design. plus that way i can finally get my front forks properly straightened. they'r pretty close now, but not perfect.
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RAC4IT
Needs a job
Bergie
Posts: 3009
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posted June 10, 2003 03:22 PM
I use the stock marks, they work fine. No need to over engineer this guys LOL the stock marks work fine at 204 mph...
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VincentHill
Needs a life
Posts: 6520
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posted June 10, 2003 03:24 PM
Freek, you got my vote !! Every Kawasaki I have ever checked was off with the chain side forward and the measurement usually about 1/4 inch off. DOne this way, you can be within the tolorances that the material is made to. I find it hard to believe that they make all of the pieces exactly the same to the point that careful measurement in 4 or 5 places make me believe that you can be within a few thousands. (A lot better than the 1/4 inch I have been finding). I think that when the adjustments are made and power is applied, it pulls the chain side forward which make you always see the bars turned slightly to the right!
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Made History @ Daytona and still one fast old man!!
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X-ZZR-Guy
Parking Attendant
Posts: 11
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posted June 12, 2003 09:33 AM
What's wrong with the Hayne's manual method - just get a long, straight thing (pipe, scaffold tube, piece of angle iron etc, line it up against the front wheel, and adjust the back wheel until it's parallel.
Or am I missing something?
Cheers!
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VincentHill
Needs a life
Posts: 6520
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posted June 12, 2003 09:48 AM
Yes, this will work for cars or bikes with the exact same size wheels and tires. With the rear being a 200 and the front being a 120, The straight line must be on both sides and perfectly spaced away from each other.
The front wheel must be turned so that the front and rear of the wheel can touch at the same time and the rear would need to be turned until that alignment could happen!
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GOZR
Zone Head
GOZR
Posts: 716
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posted June 12, 2003 09:56 AM
 Edited By: GOZR on 12 Jun 2003 10:57
I think that when the adjustments are made and power is applied, it pulls the chain side forward which make you always see the bars turned slightly to the right!
Actually yea it does to me.
VincentHill
Do you think you have a pic of what you say.. to make us an better idea.. THX
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-G
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VincentHill
Needs a life
Posts: 6520
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posted June 12, 2003 11:04 AM
I plan to take some Pictures this weekend and wil post Sunday Night! The Tool, Seat, Foot Pegs Bracket and Back rest!
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Made History @ Daytona and still one fast old man!!
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flite leader
Zone Head
Posts: 651
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posted June 13, 2003 04:34 AM
im with zhooligan on this one
when under the gun the frame does move around
i try to align the front & rear sprockets to run straight
always have......
never had a speed wobble or a tank slapper on any type bike
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VincentHill
Needs a life
Posts: 6520
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posted June 14, 2003 05:13 AM
I have used Zhoo method and you will get perfect chain alignment and tire if the are no other problems. Bergie, on my extended swingarm and your extended arms, how did you do it with "No" Marks?
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Made History @ Daytona and still one fast old man!!
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entropy
Moderator
Posts: 8671
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posted June 14, 2003 05:58 AM
I'm with DID.
I bought the Muzzy tool a year ago and I now wonder how I lived without it for my previous 35 yrs of owning MC's 
It is also REAL useful in measuring sag (setting shock preload) and measuring WB.
quote:
Follow this link http://www.muzzys.com/catalog/tools.html
And find this tool:
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This moderator uses moderation in moderation
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X-ZZR-Guy
Parking Attendant
Posts: 11
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posted June 15, 2003 04:12 AM
OK I fu**ed up - MEANT to say, get a long straight thing, line it up with the BACK wheel/tyre, and adjust until it matches the front (turning the front wheel doesn't make any difference as long as the two points are the same difference apart.
Just my two cents, and always worked for me....
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