posted December 03, 2006 05:33 AM
Even with a CAR. MM, "ALL" of this came about because of Hurst/Airheart Calipers that used clear plastic Brake lines. You could SEE all of the air bubbles and just stay pissed off all of the time and since several other people also used this we would all check others lines to see if they had more or less bubbles.
Then one day I was talking to Bob Hansen (The owner or the Kawasaki Road Race team) and he told me about this. I can remember spending Hours and all nighters working on this because it was always the last thing you did before going to the races and it took days and Days.
I Really do not miss some things of the "Good Ole Days"!
Needs a life
Full throttle!
Posts: One MEEEEEELLION
posted December 03, 2006 08:18 AM
Edited By: swft on 3 Dec 2006 08:29
I use a reverse power bleeder. Basically, from the nipple, I push fluid up through the lines. First one line till I get some sign of fluid up at the res, then the other side until I hit the proper level in the res. Pretty happy with the results, but you do have to invest in the rig. It's made by mityvac as well.
posted December 03, 2006 08:47 AM
On an Empty Brake system, I use an Oil Pump Can with a Plastic tube filled with brake fluid and fill the mastercylinder from each caliper! Then suck out all of the fluid and fill again! This gets rid of MOST of the air to begin with and it is how the cars are filled at the factory before ABS
posted December 03, 2006 04:10 PM
Voz, Did you "Fill" the Master Cylinder from the calipers with a Pump Oil Can?
If you went the other way and filled the Master Cylinder, did you Mount it, then Fill it and then slowly pull the lever in with your "Finger" over the end so you could let the air out and then BLOCK the Hole with your finger to suck the brake fluid up to the Hole??
Once you have pressure that way, then you can quickly hook up the Braided cable line and keep the bolt a little lose and the Calipers bleeds closed. Slowly pull in the Brake lever and then tighten the bolt and slowly let the Lever out. Now that you have the Mastercylinder bleed, sit on your stool and slowly push in the brake lever and when to the Handle bar QUICKLY Open and close the right brake caliper, then slowly let the brake lever back out. Repeat until you get some fluid out of this caliper and then repeat for the left side.
THEN you should be able to pump up the lever and wrap tape around it and let it sit for 3 or 4 hours! OK??
posted December 03, 2006 06:23 PM
i just can't figure out why you folks who don't have luck with mytivac. I've used it forever, and never have had a problem???????
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posted December 03, 2006 07:09 PM
i just can't understand why every one's having so much problems......
i opened my calipers.....opened them completely...like parted the two pieces.....
ok...cleaned them....installed them back again...installed goodridge speed bleeders.....
installed the SS braided lines from galfer.....
fitted the whole system on the bike...and filled the fluid from the master cylinder.....went through 2 half litre cans of fluid.....
thats it.....job done....
the speed bleeders were opened a quarter.....thats it....
the brake feel is rock solid...no sponginess....nothing.....
____________
2005 ZX-12R,Arata Full Ti, PC3,Gillis
Rearsets,Muzzy Velocity Stacks,BMC
Race filters.One Crazy 12
posted December 03, 2006 08:36 PM
Vaccuum bleeders works the best but i found if you dont have one just use a bottle of brake fluid, with a piece of vaccum hose, have one end of the hose submerged in fluid and the other one the open bleeder. at that point just start to press the brake lever and it will flush fluid threw the system, since the end of the hose is submerged in fluid it wont suck air, pretty simple and quick. the only the only thing i dont like about reverse bleeders are they may blow the seals in the master cylinder. thats why i use vacuum bleedsr or the submerged hose.
posted December 04, 2006 01:22 PM
well
3 tricks i know on brakes
1. With a dry system take the opportunity to remove the bleed nipple. wrap 3 wraps of the PETROL SERVICE (yellow) teflon tape. DO NOT overlap past the threads at the needle end. Reinstall the bleed screw.
Results: no more air backflows by the threads. I;ve done this on the bike, the truck, no issues after that with vacuum-induced air bubbles in the lines
2. Sometimes the lever does NOT allow the master cylinder to fully retract, reducing or PREVENTING fluid flow from reservoir into the master cyl. Let's just say that a 2 day stint trying to bleed the brakes on the aprilia taught me that lesson, and then another 4 hours bleeding the brakes on another bike...the friggin lever wasn't made right.
So if lever never build pressure or is really weak pressure build, then remove lever and use a 3/8" drive extension to push the plunger. if it builds, then machine your lever a smidge where it contacts the plunger.
After fixing that problem, BOTH bikes had pressure in less than 5 minutes...
3. the Vincent/Cyclenerd brake voodoo, the pressure on the lever overnight. (Cyclenerd was a memeber of the yzf board who introduced us to that lever trick)
My vacuum source for bleeding brakes for the longest time was one of those 2.99 mixmiser 2-stroke mixing syringes. attach to the 3 dollar bleeder cup thing and it worked for years. I bought a mighty-vac type deal last fall when i had to replace the AC compressor in the old S10...needed something to draw a vacuum on the system to test it before refilling.
Nothing fancy, if you use more than one bottle of fluid, it's not a fluid flow issue. Bleed the banjos, check the lever throw, and make sure air isn't pulling back in through the bleed nipple threads. when it's done pack the system tight with duct tape.
life is good!
Needs a life
Miles to go before I sleep....
Posts: 10623
posted December 04, 2006 02:33 PM
...spooky... ____________ “We sleep safe in our beds because rough men
stand ready in the night to visit violence on those
who would do us harm.”
-George Orwell
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posted December 03, 2006 05:33 AM
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