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BIKELAND > FORUMS > ZX12R ZONE.com > Thread: nitrous question, NEW TOPIC NEW POLL POST REPLY
jason370


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posted January 29, 2003 03:56 PM        
nitrous question,

how easy is it to install a dry nitrous kit? is it undetectable? i have some money and along with a full hindle, dino hinge, pc3r, yellow box, and racetech gold valves, im considering a nitrous kit.

any suggestions? nitrous or otherwise?

jason
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posted January 29, 2003 04:21 PM        
Very easy

Externally yes

Do it..you wont ever go back...just dont get greedy
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ZHooligan


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posted January 29, 2003 04:22 PM        
My personal experience is that it is pretty easy. The thread where the guys over on the dragbike zone posted pictures and everything is fantastic. The switch and solenoid are the technical stuff if you will. But again the tech info and pictures the guys posted are extremely helpful. So if you are at all mechanical you should be able to do it.

As a guy who broke fairing pieces taking them off of your bike, I would warn you that the NOS line / tubing is easy to kink so be mindful as you unroll it and route it.
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jason370


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posted January 29, 2003 04:56 PM        
well said zhoo, but that fairing was complicated man.

jason
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kcadby


Pro
Posts: 1733
posted January 29, 2003 05:31 PM        
Yup...not a big deal (unless yer doing it like I am )
I made something SIMPLE...complicated...
Gonna be done soon though...and I'm making it Idiot Proof...for John NOT that he's an idiot he just "likes" stuff SIMPLE to operate...

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moodybluezx12r


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Posts: 344
posted January 29, 2003 07:33 PM        
dry or wet...which do you recommend? and whats the difference?
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your car is slow


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Fuck Nitrous...Got Boost?
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posted January 29, 2003 07:40 PM        
Dry = nitrous injected into airbox

Wet = nitrous and fuel injected into the throttle bodies


Dry is much cheaper and easier..but has its limits.
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fastestr1


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Posts: 300
posted January 29, 2003 10:47 PM        
What are you using it for? If it is on a stock bike for a little drag racing a dry 40 HP is great but if you have a 1270, 1361 or 1427 build to drag then you what a wet system and shoot 100- 150 shoot.
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vozizm


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posted January 30, 2003 06:46 AM        
YCIS... Dry will work with Bear stacks with NOS fittings correct?..... thus easier to install....
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VOZ

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posted January 30, 2003 06:50 AM        
Eh....sure...I guess...but whats the point?

The bear stacks were designed to attach nozzles to the tops of the stacks for nitrous and fuel. (or a single nozzle that mixes both nitrous and fuel as most wet kits are supplied with.

I think it would be a nightmare to run all that hose..and have 4 nozzles for a dry kit....as you can simply just fog the airbox and get the same effect...but it certainly will work if thats what you wanna do


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vozizm


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posted January 30, 2003 06:58 AM        
i dont know the ponit!! i guess thats my problem... i have stacks with fittings and will like to use them... but if it's more of a hassle i guess i just screwed myself....now u pose another question..

what is fog an airbox?.. how does and work and how is it setup?.... sorry for all the questions.....
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fastestr1


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posted January 30, 2003 07:15 AM        
A Dry system is just NOS put into the airbox by using a tap and installing a nossle in the frame, then you use a 36-38 jet and put NOS into the airbox which FOGs it. A wet system is when the NOS and fuel are are injected into the engine together.
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your car is slow


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Fuck Nitrous...Got Boost?
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posted January 30, 2003 07:24 AM        
You didnt really "Screw" yourself....its just you dont need to utilize 4 nozzles and 4 hoses and 4 connectors etc all running into your airbox just for a dry kit.

You could configure your system as a wet kit and get some "dual" nozzles that have fittings for both fuel and nitrous and screw them into the bear stacks and you would be good to go.

All in what you want to do.
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VincentHill


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posted January 30, 2003 07:42 AM        
I have a "Picture" Coming of a "Complete" NOS System Totally installed inside the air box! invisible from the outside you can use a nozzle with 1 attachment (NOS Only "Dry") or 2 attachments (NOS & Fuel "Wet") including the Solenoids. You must use flexible lines, or it would be a "Nightmare".

Actually, the NOS is not at the "Top" of the stacks, there are left & Right Stacks and you have the choice of lower left and lower right vs top left and top right. I should have the picture next week.
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vozizm


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posted January 30, 2003 07:57 AM        
very nice Mr Hill... Now when you coming to NC to do my install?!!
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vozizm


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posted January 30, 2003 07:59 AM        
gracias YCIS.... but since i'm a DA i'm still comfused...guess i'm one of those types that have to see it to understand it..... pero muchas gracias!! or like the non-latinos say... muchusgrassinyaass...lol...lol...
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your car is slow


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Fuck Nitrous...Got Boost?
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posted January 30, 2003 09:39 AM        
Like vinny said....the bear stacks are designed so you can put the nozzles directly above the throttle bodies (in the stacks) and fire straight down into the TBs

Where as a regular dry kit comes with one nozzle..that fires into the airbox filling it completely with nitrous and letting the throttle bodies suck in the mixture on their own...rather than having it be forcefed.

Id imagine the forcefeed way would produce a bit more power given the same size nozzles as it would prevent more air from mixing with the nitrous and the motor would be running on straight nitrous alone.

But you accomodate that with smaller jet sizes
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your car is slow


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Fuck Nitrous...Got Boost?
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posted January 30, 2003 09:40 AM        
If you wanna pic to understand...go look at the Muzzys stealth kit.

It does what the drilled bear stacks do...but without the need for the holes in the stacks.

basically you would have to run all the lines yourself..and screw the nozzles into the stacks if you want to utilize them.
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VincentHill


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posted January 30, 2003 10:21 AM        
But everything would be "Inside", vs where you can see the Stealth
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your car is slow


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Fuck Nitrous...Got Boost?
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posted January 30, 2003 11:32 AM        
the stealth is inside too....all of it would sit outside the velocity stacks.
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kcadby


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posted January 30, 2003 01:48 PM        
DON'T PUT A DRY SHOT IN THE STACKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The NO2 NEEDS to go by the temp sensor in the air-box!!! (ABOVE the stacks)...
The temp sensor getting cold (and mapping) is what adds the extra fuel needed for the NO2!!!

Forgive the shouting but...as soon as I read the post...I could smell melted pistons

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your car is slow


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Fuck Nitrous...Got Boost?
Posts: 4089
posted January 30, 2003 02:03 PM        
oh snapple...never even thought of that

See...I was right...dont need the drilled stacks for a dry shot
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VincentHill


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posted January 30, 2003 02:21 PM        
I could not tell by looking at the Picture, but it looked like the solenoids on that rail mounted outside , But I was "WRONG" it is inside.

That vs the Stacks, I understand what Kevin was talking about, but I thought if you ran "Dry", that you set 100% throttle rich with the Timing retarded so that up to 80+% Throttle, you have serious Motor Only and at 100%, you spray. I also thought this was why the Yosh System was better because you could switch maps on the fly!
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VincentHill


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posted January 30, 2003 02:24 PM        
Anyone consider moving the Air temp sensor? Closer to the spray?
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kcadby


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posted January 30, 2003 03:42 PM        
I considered moving the sensor on a 02-GSXR1000 that I installed the spray on because I don't like where it is in the airbox but it worked OK...

I think the sensor is placed well in the 12s already... You'd have to put it IN the stack or throttle body for it to work with DryShot in the Stacks...
There's just no need for 4-nozzles anyway $$$...

The NO2 NEEDS to mix with the air...
KING did a LOT of R&D to decide where to install the nozzles in the Box...
ALL instructions that I have read/used for Dry Kits (at least 3-companies + KING) tell you to install the nozzle BEFORE THE AIR FILTER so the NO2 can mix well with the air before entering the motor...

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