KirksterZX-12R
Novice Class
Posts: 47
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posted November 16, 2001 10:41 PM
Lower cowl 12R decals
Does anybody know off the top of their heads how much the ZX-12R decals on the lower left and right cowl sell for?
All decals have been removed from my bike for the "smooth" look and a buddy suggested putting the 12R decals back if I sell it.
   
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ZX12R
Novice Class
Posts: 86
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posted November 17, 2001 02:07 AM
I think they are like 40.00 a piece or more.
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KirksterZX-12R
Novice Class
Posts: 47
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posted November 17, 2001 07:52 AM
Yikes! I'll find out today and re-post.
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coupedu12
Novice Class
Posts: 49
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posted November 17, 2001 07:57 AM
decals
Why bother? Why did you take them off? I think most of us took them off for two reasons 1: there cheezy 2: the bike looks better without them.
Any one that's serious about buying a 12 will likely appreciate that you took the time to do it for them.
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22348bCVC
Zone Head
Posts: 798
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posted November 17, 2001 07:59 AM
...last time I checked, it was about $45.00 per...screw that
...leave'em off or get some custom ones made instead...who knows why the shit cost that much...
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...just relax...my dog wants to use only one of your legs...
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12RPilot
Pro
Posts: 1094
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posted November 17, 2001 02:58 PM
I don't want to volunteer anybody, but isn't Redelk in the decal business?
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If you aren't an AMA member, you're part of the problem.
NESBA #209
http://www.bikepics.com/members/12rpilot/04zx10r/
 
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KirksterZX-12R
Novice Class
Posts: 47
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posted November 17, 2001 04:19 PM
Too late. I already ordered the damn things.
$40.50 a side. I can see why they are that expensive, actually. I'm sure you have all noticed that they color shift. I don't know what they have to do to vinyl or whatever they're printed on, but the color shifting paint I use is $2,000 a gallon. A can the size of a beer can is $235.00. And it doesn't mix 1:1 like most basecoats, it mixes 2:1 so it doesn't go very far. That might have something to do with the price. Who knows.
Personally, I like the bike without, but everyone (so far) that has looked at my bike's "before" pictures likes the 12R decal, so I said fuck it and ordered them today.
So now we know. $40.50 from Chaparral.
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22348bCVC
Zone Head
Posts: 798
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posted November 17, 2001 05:47 PM
...you probably already know this, but if it were me, I'd dismount the panels and apply the freekin' expensive decals while the the panels are laying down on a flat surface...of course, don't blame me if it gets boogered up...this is just a suggestion...
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...just relax...my dog wants to use only one of your legs...
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Wildman
Expert Class
I only look confused
Posts: 318
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posted November 18, 2001 12:42 AM
There is supposed to be some kind of spray that you put on before you apply the decals. It lets you move them around until they are just right and get all the bubbles out from under them.
I don't know what it's called or where to get it, but you should look into it.
It would suck to buy them twice.
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If you build something Idiot Proof, The world will build a better Idiot.
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ZX12R
Novice Class
Posts: 86
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posted November 18, 2001 11:58 AM
soap & water works nearly as well as the expensive spray
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KirksterZX-12R
Novice Class
Posts: 47
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posted November 18, 2001 02:01 PM
Thanx for the tips. It would suck to screw up a $40 sticker. The guys who apply vinyl to vehicles use this stuff called frog juice to position the graphics. Soap and water also works good and is probably what I'll use. If I had a thousand of them to do, I'd probably buy the stuff the pros use. Since it's only two, I'll go the cheap route and use dishsoap.
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redelk
Moderator
Please... speak to the hand.
Posts: 3212
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posted November 19, 2001 06:36 AM
Been doing it for over 25 years
Fleet Graphics (making & mounting decals to vehicles), that is. You can call me at 501-372-5231 and I'll give you any advice that you may need. It's really not that hard. Especially if I can do it. Ask for Re Elk or Sherman (or shithead or just about anyone you want... mention motorcycles and you'll get me)
$40 each? That's CHEAP! REAL CHEAP! You want a shock, go price a Busa fairing decal. Locally, those puppies go for $160 EACH!
____________
There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games.
-Ernest Hemingway
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KirksterZX-12R
Novice Class
Posts: 47
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posted November 24, 2001 07:34 PM
redelk, can I get by with dishsoap and water in a spray bottle?
Please correct me if I'm wrong...I don't do this every day, but common sense tells me a few things...
1. spray application fluid.
2. peel half of the backing off of the decal.
3. position the decal as close as possible to where you want it, and starting from the middle and working to the outside edges, squeegee out any air bubbles.
4. peel off the other half of the backing and repeat.
5. spray entire decal with fluid and fine tune the positioning.
Am I anywhere near close to how it is actually done? The decals should be in this week. Please tell me if I'm getting ready to screw up!
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redelk
Moderator
Please... speak to the hand.
Posts: 3212
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posted November 24, 2001 10:14 PM
Naw, you ain't screwin' up
Back when I used dish soap (and later, liquid hand soap), I'd get a spray bottle (about 32 oz.) and give it a small squirt (or a few pumps) of soap and fill the rest with very warm to hot water. The hot water gets the soap to mix better. Now days, when I'm in a pinch (without my "professional" stuff), I've used a glass cleaner WITHOUT ammonia. I think "No Drip" Windex doesn't have ammonia in it, but it's always best to check for yourself.
The only reason I prefer it over soap and water is because it will evaperate faster. This has both a good and a bad side to it. The good part is that the decal sticks down faster, but the bad part is that it gives you a little less time for repositioning the decal. Still, it both cases, you really can't spray too much on either the decal's adhesive side or on the surface your mounting it to. It just takes longer for the excess to dry out.
If the decal comes with a "premask" on the top of it, your in great shape. The premask is that white, frosted clear, or clear film on top of the decal that is removed and thrown away after the decal is securely applied. The good things about a premasked decal is that the decal isn't so flimsy, but the best part is that when your squeegee'ing down the decal, your less likely to scratch or bunch up the decal.
You see, if there is not some kind of premask on the decal and the squeegee's edge isn't perfectly smooth (but it has a small nick in it), you could possibly damage the decal. Let's say it does NOT have a premask on it. There are ony two things to remember. One, always use the smoothest edge of the squeegee and two, spray some of the soap and water on the surface of the decal BEFORE you start to smooth it down. The soap and water will act as a lubricant between the squeegee and the decal's surface and allow you to smooth it out easier.
This isn't necessary if the decal does have a premask on it.
Let me "fine tune" your steps on how I would do it. Keep in mind, like riding styles, everyone has their own way of mounting decals. It's what ever works best and is easiest for you.
Before you do anything, make sure that the fairing is not only clean, but wax free. Wiping it down with a little rubbing alcohol should take care of both aspects.
1. spray application fluid.
I'm sure your talking about on the area of the fairing your wanting to mount the decal.
2. peel half of the backing off of the decal.
There are several ways to do this. Since the decal isn't that big, I wouldn't sweat doing any doing "halves applications". Here's what I'd do...
1. I'd get a piece of cardboard (when I'm working in a parking lot) or some other complete clean surface and lay decal face down.
2. Peel the backing off the whole decal exposing the adhesive side. As I'm doing this, I'm spraying the shit out my fliud onto the adhesive.
It really sucks that the only wind gust of the day comes up as I started to peel the backing off and the decal sticks to itself. Not only has that happened, the wind gust is almost guaranteed to happen, if your garage door is open or your doing this outdoors. I've had decals blow out of my hands and land adhesive side down in the dirt. I can actually clean it off and use it because I thoughly sprayed it first.
Now that both the fairing surface and the adhesive side of the decal have been sprayed, we can continue on...
3. position the decal as close as possible to where you want it, and starting from the middle and working to the outside edges, squeegee out any air bubbles.
4. peel off the other half of the backing and repeat.
The reason why I don't recommend doing "halves" is that whe you even gently squeegee down the first half, your likely to be committed to that location for the decal. If you do it the way I do, step 4 isn't used. When the whole decal and mounting surface are thoughly sprayed, you can position the decal as a whole and assure that BOTH halves are located exactly where you want them.
This is very important on the left fairing, since the decal arches over the opening, instead of being in front of the opening (actually a "cut out"), like it is on the right side. On both sides, you should use the bottom edge of the large fairing vent to line up against. Judging from old pics of mine, it looks like it's a little under a 1/2" down from the vent's edge. Refer to old pics of your bike (or anybody else's 12R) to confirm this.
5. spray entire decal with fluid and fine tune the positioning.
Again, this applies to decals that don't have a premask on them. Once you start dragging the squeegee across it, your pretty will stuck with that location. Hopefully, you won't need to do any "fine tuning". Soap and water might give you a chance to lift the decal up after you've used the squeegee, but you run the risk of stretching the decal. You won't have any chance to do this, if you use glass cleaner.
A couple of other suggestions...
1. You might want to try practicing by using this method to mount a some other sticker onto your tool box or a bumper sticker onto your car. This will kinda give you a feel for what all will be involved in putting the decals on your bike. You can always take the "test decal" off after you've practiced with it.
2. Apply the decals in the shade or in the garage. An enclosed garage (with the door closed) is best.
3. Make sure that your hands are clean and grease free.
4. Make sure that the fairing is cool and clean. Don't apply them right after a day's ride. I'm sure you knew this, but it's always best to play it safe. On the other hand, don't mount them if it's too cold. The best SURFACE temp is somewhere around the mid 70's. If it's too hot, the decal could stick before your ready (even before you use the squeegee!) and if it's too cold (below low 60's), the decal will act like it doesn't want to stick down.
5. If you do happen to have a few air bubbles, take a very sharp straight pin and make a small hole on THE EDGE of the bubble and work the air or fluid out. Not in the middle of the bubble. This might cause a "crater" type bubble and they can be a bitch to work out.
6. Try not to ride the bike for a day or so. Even though the decal appears to be firmly secure on the bike, vinly materials do not attain their full "sheer strength" for 24 to 48 hours (depending on the type of adhesive - and there are dozens of variations of "permanent" adhesives).
7. Apply the right side first. It's location is not as critical as the left side's. It kinda gives you some "practice" on mounting the decals, before you have to tackle the left side and it's more critical placement.
Finally, these are just my opinions and hardly should be considered as "gospel". It's works best when you do it in the way your most comfortable with. It's really not that big of a deal. Just take your time and the will go on without a hitch. If your have any other concerns, you can either post them here or you can call me at work. The number is 501-372-5231. I'm here Monday thru Friday, between 9:30 AM and 5:30 PM CST. Just ask for Sherman, Red Elk, Shithead or just about anything else (i.e. "motorcycles") and you'll get me. I'm actually here a lot later then 5:30 PM, but I won't answer the main number after 5:30. You can call me and I'll give you the "crack line" number that I will answer after 5:30 (till about 11 PM).
Hope this helps.
____________
There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games.
-Ernest Hemingway
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KirksterZX-12R
Novice Class
Posts: 47
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posted November 25, 2001 09:12 PM
Thanks, redelk. That was very informative. I will definately add this to the favorites list if I need to look it up in the future!
I had a subscription to Autographics before they pulled the pin. I subscribed to them for the pinstriping, hand lettering and airbrushing aspects of the magazine. They always had vinyl how-tos in each issue, so I think I must have learned a little of it subconciously!
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