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BIKELAND > FORUMS > ZX12R ZONE.com > Thread: update on handlebar shake NEW TOPIC NEW POLL POST REPLY
FinalVelocity


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posted November 11, 2002 01:17 PM        Edited By: FinalVelocity on 11 Nov 2002 13:18
Update on Handlebar shake

For those following my handle-bar shake saga I've been suffering from all year, I changed the brand new front Michelin to a brand new BT010 (rear still on a Pilot, gotta change it later) and test rode the bike. Shake went down by about 60%! While reinstalling the front wheel, Wilson noticed that my right rotor was not running true. So after we put a BT010 on and rode it, we tied the right caliper to the forks and I took it out for another test ride. The shake came down by a further 20-30%. So there is still *some* shake left (like mebbe 5-10%) - but it's almost negligible. That could be due to anything. Also we changed the fork oil and made sure we had 410 cc in each leg

We're gonna try to straighten that rotor if we can. I rode the 12 with all the fairing, mirrors, headlight, front fender removed. It looks like a praying mantis now!

Conclusion:
My bike does'nt seem to like Pilot Sports (think it's bike specific because I know some of you do run Pilots and are happy with it) and is the cause of most(60%) of the shake. The out of whack right rotor is also causing the shake to an extent of 20-30%.

Hope this bit of testing helps some of the others who are experiencing handlebar shake.

My handlebar shake is almost gone - WooHoo!



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swft


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posted November 11, 2002 01:32 PM        
Good news that yer getting it solved!
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ZHooligan


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posted November 11, 2002 03:34 PM        
Enquiring minds needed to know!
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GG


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posted November 11, 2002 03:37 PM        
FV,

Would you sell the Pilot that you just took off?
Let me know.

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aliveagain


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posted November 11, 2002 07:15 PM        
tits and wheels will always give you problems!
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flite leader


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posted November 11, 2002 07:39 PM        
FRONT END SHAKE

if your rotor was warp it would pulse while using the brake

that you can take it off your bike & it helps
something would have to be bent

are you sure the front rim is not egg shaped
switchin with another bike & riding both will tell you much

make sure your head bearings for the top
triple trees are torqued correctly

good luck
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mach111


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posted November 12, 2002 12:26 AM        
f.v,my buddy tightened down and re-adjusted ALL my settings in the front.i can now ride hands free with no shake.my fork settings on top were real out and too loose,also the rebound was soft.glad yours is better.
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OZZY


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posted November 12, 2002 04:51 AM        
If the rotor is not running true, the carrier may be bent. This is not difficult to straighten . The use of a dial indicator and a lot of patience and finesse are required.
If the rotor is warped, toss it. Even if you do get it to run true, once it gets hot again it may very likely "find" its previous warped shape. Good Luck.
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r21xz


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posted November 12, 2002 05:27 AM        
You did the right fork leg,bounce up and down thing,right?

Jeff

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r21xz


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posted November 12, 2002 05:33 AM        
I tried straightening warped rotors once,using a large adjustable wrench/dial indicator.Got the dial almost smooth,but it seemed like I bent the entire rotor more to the outside,and was nervous about how the buttons were taking all this bending,so I just bought new ones.Hate to grab 'em at 180 or so,and have one come apart!

Jeff

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FinalVelocity


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posted November 12, 2002 07:18 AM        
Hi All, heard a new rotor from Kawi is almost 300 bucks (for one!).

One final test I would like to do is swap wheels itself with someone but I'm not sure who I can ask that is close by. My pads themselves are about 50% worn out. In a few thousand miles, changing to Kevlar ones might help straighten the rotor out some I think.

flite: No when I brake it does'nt really pulse, but when I rotate the wheel I can hear the rotor slide on the pads. Also I saw the extent of runout when we put a pointed object to the edge of the rotor and turned the wheel. If the wheel were bent it would show up during balancing I would think. Only way I'll know for sure is by swapping wheels.

r21xz - Yep I did the bounce thing.

mach111 - good you got your handlebar shake fixed. I don't know whether changing the fork oil also made some amount of difference.

GG: I replied to your mail.


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TedG


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posted November 12, 2002 01:52 PM        
Did you guys know that in the early days of disc brakes on motorcycles, there was an intentional warp in the rotor? They did it to "kick" the pads apart so they wouldn't drag. The problem with kicking apart the pads is when you go to grab the brake again you have to take up the extra that the kick gave you, resulting in a long lever pull. So that being said the less the rotor is warped the shorter the lever pull and consequently the better the brake feels. Most of the pulsing you feel is not so much warpage but where the rotor is thicker in spots than others. You really notice this when the rotors get hot.
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ZHooligan


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posted November 12, 2002 06:29 PM        
Hell, Fiat depends on it for their brakes! We found in the mid eighties that when we turned rotors and made them spot on the owners complained that their brakes were dragging!! Damn Italians!!
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jason370


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posted November 15, 2002 01:52 AM        

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r21xz


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posted November 15, 2002 11:40 AM        
I'd rather have smooth brakes.The 12 has more than enough power to make up for a little drag.

Jeff

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swft


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posted November 15, 2002 11:51 AM        
I'm still waiting for that chance to test out the new Ferodo rotors I put on my 12...
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beansbaxter


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posted November 15, 2002 08:22 PM        
quote:


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