garth285
Expert Class
200+mph 2011 ZX10r
Posts: 300
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posted October 09, 2009 03:17 PM
How To: Raise your oil pressure
Hi all, thought I'd share this to anyone who was looking to raise their oil pressure.....
Oil pressure is regulated threw the relief valve in our engines, most all are found right on the bottom of the motor in the oil pan. These relief valves are a simple ball or collar and spring set up that has a certain pop off pressure. Raising the spring pressure will raise the amount of pressure it takes to over come the spring which equals more oil pressure
All you need to do to slightly raise the oil pressure is shim the spring which entails dis-assembling the relief valve and adding a small washer to the set up
Here is the Relief valve out of my zx-12r along with a snap ring pliers
A closer look at the relief valve, first remove the snap ring and pull the assembly apart
Here is everything in the system. Housing, collar, spring, spring holder and circlip
Here is a washer that is just the perfect size diameter wise. Washer measures 1.58mm thick (or 0.0622")
after cleaning the assembly reinstall everything but add the washer to the top of the stack
and here is the stack with the installed circlip
Now I hooked up the pressure relief valve to a pressure guage and I did a pop off test on both the shimmed and stock spring.
Stock pressure release was 55psi
Shimmed pressure release was 75psi
so 1.58mm extra shim on a stock valve was giving me 20psi extra oil pressure. I tried to add another shim to see how much it would go to but it was popping off erratically and not giving accurate readings. I think an extra 20 psi of pressure will surely benefit in my application
Hope this helps anyone who is looking to raise their oil pressure when needed!
   
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KZScott
Needs a life
high on speed
Posts: 7235
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posted October 09, 2009 06:30 PM
Karl, want to verify these results for us?
good write up Garth, but why exactly are you bumping pressure?
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garth285
Expert Class
200+mph 2011 ZX10r
Posts: 300
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posted October 09, 2009 06:32 PM
its for my 1375 motor. looking to just get a bit more oiling for the big motor.
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rgeorge
Expert Class
Posts: 220
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posted October 09, 2009 07:13 PM
 Edited By: rgeorge on 10 Oct 2009 03:14
Nice write up and pics. I did the same thing with mine and can verify the results.
For testing, I connected the relief valve to a compressed air line with an adjustable air pressure regulator. It began leaking at 10psi, leaked badly at 30psi, and completely opened at 60psi.
With a. 063 washer the opening pressure was higher, but it still had some leak at low pressure.
I tried several combinations of washers and determined that anything thicker than .063 was too close to coil bind and would prevent the valve from working properly. I did a quick search on McMaster but couldn't find a higher rate spring that would fit in the housing.
So I put some lapping compound on the plunger face and spun it in the housing. It took some aggressive lapping to get the faces to seat. Cleaning the lapping compound out of the housing was a real pain. It took a whole jug of acetone and half a box of Qtips.
Final test after lapping, with .063 washer: no leak at all until about 75 psi, completely open at 90psi. 
I feel better knowing that the all the oil is going where it needs to, not some of it leaking back to the pan.
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garth285
Expert Class
200+mph 2011 ZX10r
Posts: 300
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posted October 09, 2009 07:18 PM
cool. good info. what year is your bike by the way???
I'll snap a pic of how I had mine set up to test. my pressure relief did leak a little but would fully open at those psi's listed. I ran mine off a oil pressure gauge i had at the shop that was actually a seadoo tool I use... seems to be decently accurate. I took the bleed valve off the side of the gauge and screwed the valve right in place and it fit just perfect.
thanks for the input.
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entropy
Moderator
Posts: 8671
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posted October 10, 2009 12:24 AM
quote:
Karl, want to verify these results for us?
good write up Garth, but why exactly are you bumping pressure?
be VERY, VERY, VERY careful fooling with this seemingly simple lil valve.
1. if you fool with the valve, IMO it's a must to have an oil pressure gauge and log oil pressure
2. be double sure the assembly is done right: I lost a billet crank and set of rods 4-5 years ago on JC's dyno due to the snap ring falling out, oil pressure dropped but not enough to trigger the oil pressure light. $5,000 oops.
3. be triple sure the assembly is 110% clean: 2 times on Andy's dyno i saw that oil pressure wasn't going over about 55psi due to the tiniest bit of grit holding the piston open.
I have a 1.5mm washer and get valve opening at about 9,000rpm = about 90psi. 15/50 full syn
un-shimmed = about 65psi, again 15/50 full syn.
I origionally did the mod bc Dave Owen said he like about 10psi/1000 rpm, but he strongly cautioned me on cleanliness and assembly care. I now know what Dave was talking about.
BTW: there is a very divided camp as to whether the added psi helps the motor live longer at all at hi rpm.
Most folks do agree that it will cost you hp.
On my next build, i will put a pristene OEM unshimmed valve in (already have it in "stock")
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