posted October 23, 2002 07:42 AM
rear ride hight... Well the winter came a week ago(-12 degrees celsius in the morning and that is 10 degrees F to You Americans) so the riding season ended. Last weekend I did the service eg changed oil and filter, coolant washed the air filters and adjusted valve clearance and sunched the throttle bodies. So basically what was left for Xmas holiday is to change the front forks oil. And when I'm doing that I have my bike hanging from my special made bike hanger to get the front wheel of the ground. I'm going to try to rise the back end. Because in German mags they have said that Kawasaki Germany says that adding 4mm spacer to rise the rear gives better curving capability. And the mags said it really made it handle better. So I don't want to buy the riser set from Kawasaki(may cost something...) I'm making my own spacers. So does anybody know the diameter off the bolt in the top of shock that is holding the shoch in place so I can have the right size of hole in my spacer. Did forget to measure it when it was avaiwable... So after I've made the spacer I just pull upp the rear off the bike and loosen the top bolt off rear shock and add my spacer and voilá - higher rear and better bike for tight roads:-)
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posted October 23, 2002 08:38 AM
If you lift the gas tank and measure the diameter of the shock absorber bracket bolt, that will give you the correct inner diameter for the spacers.
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82 Gpz750, 84 Ninja 900, 2000 ZX12R (Muzzy Big Bore Kit), *another* 2000 ZX12R (Muzzy custom stroke crank 1341cc motor), 2004 ZZR1200, 2005 ZX10R, 2007 ZX14, 2008 Concours 14, 2014 Versys 650, 2014 Yamaha WR450F, 2015 Ninja H2
posted October 23, 2002 11:21 AM
Yeah I know swft but the question was if someone knows that diameter because I allready put the tank cover and all that back together. But maybe Your right and it is easyest to do the measurement myself.
posted October 24, 2002 12:27 AM
Just a thought, you might be able to peg that info off of the BuyKawasaki.com parts diagram. The diagram should list the bolt or at least the nut which should give you the diameter!
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future; -- Youth is forever.
posted October 24, 2002 11:43 AM
You mean 16mm? And it took quite a while before finding it. IT was listed under battery case for what ever reason? But I'd assume it means that it needs 16 wrench to open? But what that would make the diameter for the hole.
posted October 24, 2002 02:36 PM
I just cranked the preload down and dropped the front forks about 7/8" and it handles like it's on rails now. It definitely needs a damper, it's kinda flighty, but what else do you expect from a bike set up for the track?
posted October 24, 2002 03:58 PM
i'd actually like to raise both the front and the back. i'm rather annoyed at all the scratches on the underside, assumably from hard cornering on uneven pavement. but i'm not sure if it's possible to raise the front anymore. i'v already got preload cranked. is it safe to raise the forks so they'r a 1/4" BELOW the surface of the top clamp? i tend to think not.
posted October 24, 2002 05:15 PM
Raise the front? The bike must turn fairly slow. Probably stable in a straight line though.
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To those who do not count their life in years, but in how life
has touched them in the past and how much it can hold in the
future; -- Youth is forever.
posted October 24, 2002 07:11 PM
Speaking of "raising" a 2000 bike. I just gave a buddy my "old" 2002 links for his 2000 ones. Guess what?? The 2002s are slightly smaller (~5mm) which means you can jack your 2000-01 up with some 2002 dogbones.
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posted October 24, 2002 09:32 PM
thx fer the idea turboblew! i'd prefer that over adding shims methinks. however, are there any effects to longer dogbones other than ride hieght? does it change any of the suspension geometry?
and zhool, i dont want to raise JUST the front. i want to riase them both, keeing a stock or ever so slightly more forward stance in teh end. i jsut wanna quit draggin the bottom of the bike. sure, slimmer bodywork should solve the problem too, but i don't know if anyone makes that. granted raising the bike is gonna make it more prone to wheelies and stoppies, but i'm more concerned about cornering abilities than accel & decel, since i don't brake that hard usually (cept for that one time ), and i dont dragrace. but like i said, i'm worried that lowering the forks in the triple clamp will be structurally dangerous.
posted October 25, 2002 02:46 AM
Freek, you can slide the fork tubes up probably 5mm or so even more. Just do one side at a time. The 2002 dogbones are ~5mm shorter. This will raise the back up some more. Dont know what effect it will have other than loading the front end more.
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posted October 25, 2002 03:46 AM
Shorter dogbones changes the ratio, which effectively changes the spring rate. Shorter lever arm means that the spring rate would be higher, methinks.
posted October 25, 2002 06:01 AM
anyone actually done the dog-bone thing? I'm sure everyone realizes there is a shim-kit available from Kawasaki for the top shock mount? ($160+) A fender washer of the same size will do same for cheap...
I have the same problem Freek. My lowers are trashed on both sides; moreso on the left than the right. If your a big guy, the bike drags bad man; especially on the racetrack....
Swft: How did the "A-Tech" bodywork work out? Dragging at all?
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02' ZRX1200
00' ZX12R sold
posted October 25, 2002 10:24 AM
funny thing is, i'm not a big guy. most i ever weighed was 175lbs, tho i weight 160 now. and i had front preload turned almost all the way up from day one. rear preload is stock mind u, but it seems to be the forward section of the fairings that get scratched up more so i assume it's the fork's fault more than the shock's. don't know that i want to increase the spring rate as it's hard enough for me already personally, and zx23rr made an interesting observation about getting better handling with the rear softened rather than hardened.
posted October 25, 2002 10:38 AM
i'll ring in - the way the 00-01 are set up from the factory-(IMHO) was OTL.
I have peeled 3.5 turns out of the back to get rid of the chattering under HARD braking, and turns the front preload in with only 1 - 1.5 lines showning. I forgot where i put the compression and rebound settings. But found that i told it out of the front (in stages) until the front wheel stopped chattering under again very hard braking conditions.
As for the tubes, i slid them up 7 mm or so up. handles wonderful IMHO and makes it less wheelie prone. - full power sooner in first.
posted October 25, 2002 01:38 PM
Wow. Well being a heavy guy, realize I had to go the other way. The first week of ownership I soon discovered the stock settings were too soft, trashing the fairing on both sides & the bottom. Every time I would hit a "dip" mid-turn it would go "ssscrape."
I finally got sick of it & started dialing EVERYTHING up. Rear spring up almost all the way, front only 3 lines showing, compression & rebound on both ends dialed way up. The rear shock is just plain shit; the compression adjuster doesn't seem to hardly work...
Least I keep it off the ground pretty much now. The front is a bit too harsh for the bumpy/shitty roads around here; but I have to live with it if I want to quit trashing the fairing. Wish I could afford an Ohlins or Penske on the rear...
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Enjoy the ride!
02' ZRX1200
00' ZX12R sold
posted October 25, 2002 01:53 PM
Dave.... Spend a few dollars and fix it. I way 255 to 260. I have an Ohlins on the rear of my bike. But, you can make the stock stuff way better for a pretty reasonable price. Race tech sells high quality springs at a reasonable price. Call them up, tell them your bike, weight, riding style and level of expertise and they can set you up with a rear shock spring and a set of fork springs that will make your bike a thousand percent better.
Suspension and brakes before anything else!!!
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To those who do not count their life in years, but in how life
has touched them in the past and how much it can hold in the
future; -- Youth is forever.
posted October 25, 2002 02:11 PM
zhool, so u mean they just give u a replacement shock spring? nothing internal? is it simply harder or it has a different progressive winding? and any idea approx what cost is?
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posted October 25, 2002 03:37 PM
quote:Swft: How did the "A-Tech" bodywork work out? Dragging at all?
The A-Tech stuff is perfect! Better yet, the Ti-Force pipe clears everywhere, so I don't have to resort to any spacers, etc., to keep the bodywork clear of the exhaust.
____________
82 Gpz750, 84 Ninja 900, 2000 ZX12R (Muzzy Big Bore Kit), *another* 2000 ZX12R (Muzzy custom stroke crank 1341cc motor), 2004 ZZR1200, 2005 ZX10R, 2007 ZX14, 2008 Concours 14, 2014 Versys 650, 2014 Yamaha WR450F, 2015 Ninja H2
posted October 25, 2002 03:51 PM
does the a-tech bodywork give u more clearance in the area that usual scraps tho? for that matter, maybe u'll have an answer to this too: i rather like the look of more rearward coverage in the bellypan like the 250GP bikes have. u ever come across any bodywork set up like that in ur searches? i figure it should make for slightly better aeros too.
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posted October 25, 2002 06:10 PM
The A-tech bodywork has a full bellypan, as required by most racing sanctioning bodies. With regard to scraping, I've never scraped after having the forks rebuilt by Race Tech, and mounting the Ohlins shock with the correct spring rate for my weight.
____________
82 Gpz750, 84 Ninja 900, 2000 ZX12R (Muzzy Big Bore Kit), *another* 2000 ZX12R (Muzzy custom stroke crank 1341cc motor), 2004 ZZR1200, 2005 ZX10R, 2007 ZX14, 2008 Concours 14, 2014 Versys 650, 2014 Yamaha WR450F, 2015 Ninja H2
posted October 25, 2002 06:34 PM
Curious as other than myself; this is the first I've heard of anyone else dragging things. Those that are dragging, where exactly are you dragging things? When it was brand new I hit the right side just under the footpeg near the rear mount. It sometimes scrapes on the bottom off of one of my favorite "Agostini Jumps" (a roller coaster type road.)
I quit doing that lately (it was fun tho!) Since dialing everything up I rarely hit anything anymo, but still hit the left side just below the rear mount ocasionally. Only when I'm in a banked corner hard, & there's a big dip there, does it hit.
I'd do the suspension but I'm broke (no workie 2yrs- luckily I start new job Monday. Hip Hip Horray!) Bikes been for sale since spring, but no one giving me reasonable offers so I've decided to keep it! I ain't giving it away man, no way Jose'. WHEN I get a few extra bux I'm planning on a shock & fork rebuild, probably Ohlins/Penske out back & Lindermann or Aftershox job on the forks.
So who's dragging what where? Any pics?
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Enjoy the ride!
02' ZRX1200
00' ZX12R sold
posted October 26, 2002 12:59 AM
all along the site of the fairings, right at the bottom. right thru the paint & half way thru the plastic in some places, they'v bin scratched up so bad. i find it odd since i'm not particularly fast, esp not in the corners, not a heavy guy, and had the suspension largely cranked. just a bad design coupled with bumpy roads.
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posted October 23, 2002 07:42 AM
posted October 23, 2002 08:38 AM
), and i dont dragrace. but like i said, i'm worried that lowering the forks in the triple clamp will be structurally dangerous.
Since dialing everything up I rarely hit anything anymo, but still hit the left side just below the rear mount ocasionally. Only when I'm in a banked corner hard, & there's a big dip there, does it hit. 
