Grunter
Parking Attendant
Posts: 29
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posted May 28, 2007 03:39 PM
model differences
Hi all,
Am new to the forum and looking at getting my first zx12, I would be grateful of some advice as to what to go for and what are the model differences,
first off i have been on a mildly tuned zzr11 for a few years and now im looking for more,
It really want to be able to do a genuine 200mph, not regular or anything just one of those things i think i should tick off the "to do" list of life!
Just lost me job so funds are extremely limited roughly £3000 at the moment so do i ...
get an early model now and get riding for the summer or ..
get more funds and wait till i can get a b model,
not entirely sure what the real differences are, I did have my eye on an 02 model which had the early type fairing but 180mph on the clock, is this right? dont want to be getting caught out so if theres anything i should look out for please let me know, the one i end up buying is probably going to have to last me for a good few years!
Thanks in advance folks
Grunter
  
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ZXLNT
Needs a job
Kawpuke Extraordinare
Posts: 2853
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posted May 28, 2007 03:53 PM
The 00 is the only unrestricted ZX12R, every year after is limited to 186 mph. Now there are devices to removed the limiter on the 01 and up, at least upto 03. I dont think anyone has found a foolproof easy was to remove the limiter on the 04 and up. The 00 is the only one with the 200 mph speedometer, all others have the 190 mph speedo. There are a myriad of minor changes in the B model. Swingarm geometry, bodywork, seating position, some changes in the clutch, flywheel etc.
Other people will chime in.
Myself I have a 00 and wouldn't give it up for anything...
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shane661
Needs a life
Posts: 11494
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posted May 28, 2007 03:59 PM
I have an '02. I would say that the '02-'03 are just as fast, and much more refined, than the "A" models. Look at it this way...the unrestricted A model lasted 1 year...
The easily de-restricted B1-B2's for 2 years....
My B1 has run 189 mph in 3/4 of a mile from a standing start...not many A's can do better than that.
So, I say...either get an A1...or B1-B2....
Those 3 are stout enough to rule the roost....
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Grunter
Parking Attendant
Posts: 29
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posted May 29, 2007 09:12 AM
Thanks for the advice guys,
Have been having a good look through many many posts and as i understand it the b model is ..
A little easier on launch,
has a smoother power delivery,
more comfortable riding position( for who? is this the mythical average rider or the real world 6ft 18st rider??),
different clutch?
restricted top end in stock trim.
correct me if i got any of that the wrong!
Is it all A models that have the stator problem or does it affect all models?
The way im seeing things at the moment the B model is a more refined everyday bike and the A model is a bit more balls out.
So for the long term im thinking the b1-b2 as suggested by shane would be best!
so i guess the decision will boil down to what mods are required to get either model up to the double ton and how much its likely to cost.. if the amount is going to be pretty much the same i think i will go for the B model..
What mods for either model are required to get the speed i want assuming starting from stock machine?
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shiphteey
Needs a job
Posts: 2529
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posted May 29, 2007 09:26 AM
 Edited By: shiphteey on 29 May 2007 10:28
It depends...do you want 200 mph in the standing mile, or flat out for 1.5-2 miles?
You'll need about 200 RWHP for 200 mph in the mile, a little more doesn't hurt. Flat out I would say a pipe, power commander, race filter, no mirrors, 45 tooth rear sprocket with a splash of gas and a GOOD MAP should get you there.
A.
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Grunter
Parking Attendant
Posts: 29
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posted May 29, 2007 09:48 AM
just want to get there to start with,over whatever distance is needed, im no racer, but that does'nt mean that im not going to get the bug and start looking at having a go at the mile etc..
still thanks.. at least i can see which mods are worth having on a potential bike...
btw are blue ones any quicker by chance? lol
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shiphteey
Needs a job
Posts: 2529
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posted May 29, 2007 11:01 AM
Edited By: shiphteey on 29 May 2007 12:02
2 miles from a standing start will be enough, even 1.5 miles should be enough to reach your goal. Of course allow for at least .5 miles to slow back down, and thats if you're used to braking from those speeds!
You will need at LEAST:
A GPS that reads to the tenths at 100+ mph
45 tooth rear sprocket
Full Exhaust System
Good conditions (cool temps, light tailwind)
A GOOD tuck
Very helpful:
Power commander or some sort of device that lets you adjust for air & fuel.
Race Air Filter like BMC
Pump up the tires a little higher than normal
Minimal amount of gasoline
Removal of mirrors and signals
Lowering the bike front and rear
Don't be suprised if you can barely muster 190 flat out! Top end runs can be very humbling! You may need to work on your tuck, you may end up shifting too early, etc etc. And I am presuming you are going to do this on the streets.
If so, please check everything on your bike at least once before making your first pass. Double check that there is no debris, no slight imperfection, no gradual bend that now becomes a hairpin at these speeds, no intersecting roads and rare occurances of roadkill.
I would highly reccomend bringing a friend with you, preferably 2. Good luck and if you haven't done these speeds I would suggest just going out and getting a little more used to this bike first. I tested my courage to 160 first...then 180....then a little more and more till I finally just stayed in it. ABORT ANY RUN THAT DOESN'T FEEL 100% RIGHT!
If you are having trouble cracking that magical mark even a teeny tiny 20-40 shot of nitrous in 6th for a couple seconds should help you get over the hump! Kits can be had for under $300 nowadays.
Good luck!
A.
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Grunter
Parking Attendant
Posts: 29
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posted May 29, 2007 12:36 PM
Thanks for the tips,
have had some street experience and always with a forward scout to give an all clear, from reading posts on this forum my zzr 11 was only mildly modded in comparison but i think i have made the right decision in getting rid of the 11 in favour of the 12.
I used to use the rpm as a guide to speed instead of the speedo, i have a spreadsheet somewhere, you put in your tyre size, primary drive ratio, ratio for each gear and your rev limit and it gives you a spread of rpm/speed in all gears, not ideal i know but still more accurate than the needle supplied as standard! so i know ive been around the 190 a couple of times but cant be any more accurate than that. am hoping to go to an organised event somewhere and get a proper speed trap reading once i know im in with a shot of making it.
As for nos, have never had anything to do with it, i understand how it works, just never seen a system up close to see how its fitted / operated or other mods to make it work right..and i have no idea of the quantity used etc... like what is 20 - 40 ?? is it injected as a liquid or as gas?
Thanks again for the info...i feel its time to hunt down my next ride.. 
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narider
Expert Class
Posts: 246
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posted May 29, 2007 12:40 PM
Take it to a track designed for what you want to do!
Live to talk about it... you know, in case you actually do it.
Todd
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shiphteey
Needs a job
Posts: 2529
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posted May 29, 2007 01:17 PM
20-40 shot is a 20HP to 40 HP increase temporarily while the nitrous is engaged. Power is air and fuel. Up your fuel to compensate for the increased oxygen found in nitrous and you're good.
Where do you live bro? Maxton Mile is on the East Coast, they have the Texas Mile, Bonneville Salt Flats in Utah where you can REALLY hold it WIDE OPEN, etc. And they are all cheaper than a reckless driving ticket, I promise!
A.
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supra5677
Pro
Posts: 1279
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posted May 30, 2007 07:57 AM
I think you can derestrict the 04-05 model with a Nikko G pack..
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dougmeyer
Needs a job
moderated
Posts: 2713
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posted May 30, 2007 08:47 PM
'00 - PIpe, Power commander, clean filters, lower it an inch or so. Find yourself 5 miles of sea level road on a 50 degree day, work on your tuck - back flat, head down, butt all the way back and elbows in 'till it hurts and when you hit the limiter in 6th, you did it.
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Grunter
Parking Attendant
Posts: 29
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posted May 31, 2007 08:16 AM
Well i managed to find an 03 model in blue that was within my budget yesterday afternoon, so i drove down to london from wales to get it last night. I got back 4 0'clock this morning and had to get up at 6 to do a day's work... Havent even had chance to get it out the van yet...she's totally standard with no mods so am starting with a blank canvass! will be preparing a shopping list soon!! Thanks for all the help guys!
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taztriple
Parking Attendant
Posts: 2
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posted June 01, 2007 07:34 AM
Hi guys, new to the site, very interesting reading. I have just bought a 2001 A1 12R, it reads 220Mph on the speedo, so does that mean its a 2000 bike registered in 2001?
thanks
Taz
____________
Ride it hard
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supra5677
Pro
Posts: 1279
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posted June 01, 2007 07:44 AM
but Doug you hit 199.115 with just a Muzzy Exhaust.. no power commander
Then sport rider puts on a muzzy and power commander and does only 190.7..
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WARBIRD
Needs a job
Posts: 2739
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posted June 01, 2007 09:02 AM
quote:
Hi guys, new to the site, very interesting reading. I have just bought a 2001 A1 12R, it reads 220Mph on the speedo, so does that mean its a 2000 bike registered in 2001?
thanks
Taz
2000-A1
2001-A2
2002-B1
2003-B2
2004-B3
2005-B4
.
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