rs
Expert Class
Posts: 137
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posted June 15, 2002 07:30 PM
Valve Clearance
Check the valve clearance today and they were all within spec, but just barely. Think I'll leave them as is and plan on adjusting them next time.
Exhaust ranged from .23 to .30 (spec .22 - .31}
Intake ranged from .17 to .24 (spec .15 - .24)
Guess I should pick up some adjustable cam sprockets between now and then and get them pressed on while I have the cams out to swap the shims.
All you Dads have a great Father's Day and everyone be careful out there on the road.
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Otis

Needs a job
Captain Kickstand
Posts: 3028
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posted June 17, 2002 03:18 AM
How many miles rs?
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It's a free country brother
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rs
Expert Class
Posts: 137
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posted June 17, 2002 08:42 AM
7,600
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Otis

Needs a job
Captain Kickstand
Posts: 3028
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posted June 17, 2002 09:40 AM
Did you do it yourself and was it a bitch?!
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It's a free country brother
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jessz1

Expert Class
Half the wheels, twice the fun
Posts: 373
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posted June 17, 2002 09:49 AM
Wow, goes to shw ya how every bike is different. Mine where well withen spec at 6000. If anything a couple where a bit tight. Degreeing the cams with the engine is in the bike is a bit of a chore.
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I'm never satisfied.
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rs
Expert Class
Posts: 137
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posted June 17, 2002 09:52 AM
Did it myself and it wasn't that bad. My Kleen-Air stuff was removed previously and there was plenty of room to work once the cover was off. Think the worst part was getting the plastic tray that sets on top of the valve cover off. I used the straight feeler guages and they worked fine. Think the bent ones would be even easier to work with.
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22348bCVC

Zone Head
Posts: 798
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posted June 17, 2002 01:03 PM
Edited By: 22348bCVC on 17 Jun 2002 14:14
quote: Did it myself and it wasn't that bad. My Kleen-Air stuff was removed previously and there was plenty of room to work once the cover was off. Think the worst part was getting the plastic tray that sets on top of the valve cover off. I used the straight feeler guages and they worked fine. Think the bent ones would be even easier to work with.
rs...when you say 'wasn't that bad', what kind of time are you talkin'? I, too, have all the Kleen-Air stuff off and I NEED to check the valves. How difficult and involved would it be to replace the shims if needed? Does the engine need to be removed from the frame to do the shim change? I have a manual and it doesn't say anything about removing the engine, yet I don't see how anyone's hands coud get in there to remove cams and change shims.
I really NEED to check/adjust shims (21,000 miles,never checked, and hedging my bets,based on what I've read about other hi-milage checks, that its still within specs...yeah, I know...'chancey'...GULP... but I think its time)...but with Laguna being so close and my time being so limited, I don't wanna take anything major apart, screw up, and miss the ride, ya' know? I'll probably cover at least 3000 miles on this trip.
And the shops around here leave me with very little confidence with their attitude and lack of familiarity with the 12R. The checking part should be no big deal, I suppose...but what about the changing of the shims part?
Can you or anyone else out there provide some advice/info/technique/caution on how to proceed? I have tools, torque wrenchs, stands (wish I had a lift table), and a manual...need to get spark plugs while I'm at it. Do I need to buy a new valve cover gasket? I think I can do this within a day's time providing I can get shims locally if its needed. I've done my old VW GTi and M3 before and the 1st times were spooky...subsequent times were a breeze...this is what I'm hoping for with the 12R. So, what do I look out for?
And what would adjustable cam sprockets do for a stock displacement engine with the usual bolt-ons ie., full exhaust, PC3R, K&Ns, 17/48 combo? If I'm there, might as well install that, too, if its worth it. Would I need a cam degreeing wheel? I wouldn't know how to use it, but I may know someone who might, unless its something any competent DIYer could do with instructions.
Thanks!
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...just relax...my dog wants to use only one of your legs...
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RS
Expert Class
Posts: 137
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posted June 18, 2002 03:31 AM
22348bCVC,
It took me around 2 hours from start to finish to check the valve clearances. I take my time and clean things as I remove them, so you may be able to do it in less time. Not sure about the ease or time required to replace the shims and get the cam timing set. There is plenty of room in there to get the work done, so that shouldn't be a problem. I have removed and replaced cams on other bikes before and it shouldn't be too much trouble as long as you have a shop manual and some mechanical skill.
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