thekaz
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posted September 28, 2006 11:35 AM
my vote is for switched by 12V Pos ....
AHAHA only becuase my NOS trigger is 12V pos 
  
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ninja12
Needs a job
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posted September 28, 2006 11:46 AM
I have no idea what a "active op-amp circuit " is.
Care to explain?
Here are some more of my thinking out loud.
IF there is no negative offset, parallel sould work fine after warm up, right?
Even if the bike ran lean at start up until it warms up, no harm done, just require a little more fast idle level .
Lean make it warm up quicker and once warm, it would run the the same not matter the resistor.
idea #2
How about a double relay?
orange wire connected as normal thru relay #2, and input into #1.
When you activate the #1 relay it connects the resistor in parallel and activate the #2 relay
which removes the original orange wire. A hand off.
I don't know how to wire.
What about a picture Ridge?
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ridgeracer
Pro
Posts: 1309
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posted September 28, 2006 03:01 PM
 Edited By: ridgeracer on 28 Sep 2006 16:07
Actually yours is a pretty good idea. I guess I got hung up on the orginal topic of zero switch time but there are other ways to take care of that.
http://www.olympus.net/personal/mbially/Nitrous2.pdf
Normally the orange wire is just connected through the relay. When you depress SW1 the relay energizes and disconnects the orange wire from the temp sensor and connects it to the Potentiometer R1. The cap C1 prevents the ECU from seeing any rapid voltage change, especially for the 1mS when the relay contact is in between the to terminals . C1 also prevents any contact bounce.
The usable voltage is 4.7 (coldest) to 2.7V. Below that there is little or no ofset. Only about half a turn of the pot will be useful. Actually I would recommend a multiturn pot. They have a little screw driver adjustment and take about 15 turns to go from end to end. They allow fine adjustment and tend to stay where you put them a lot more than the volume control type of pots. They are also nice and small.
http://info.tactnet.co.jp/copal/e/product/pdf/trimmer_potentiometers/ct94_en.pdf
www.digikey.com part number CT94W503-ND $1.68
R2 prevents the adjustment from going to low if you turn the pot all the way to the low end.
C1 values are not critical. Capacitance can be anywhere from 10uF to 33uF, Voltage anything greater than 10V. Must be polarized (have a plus/ minus) make sure you get the plus minus correct when you hook it up.
If you want to go lo tech and just stick a single resistor in there instead of Pot R1 and R2 all the info you need to pick a value is in this thread.
1st look at my Series1 graph and pick the level you want (0-70) by picking the bottom number under the level you want to try. (1-255)
2nd find that number on the left of the first graph I posted and go across till you intersect the purple map data curve, now go down and read the bottom number under that point (1-30)
3rd go to that long list of numbers, volts k ohms, and count down the list till you get to the correct value. for example it your number after step 2 is 10 count down 10 numbers in the list.
4th the voltage / resistor you want is half way between your volt / ohm and the next highest.
Example. You go to the Series 1 graph and decide on a level of 30 (left side), you go down and looks to be about 50. Then go to the Mapdata graph and find 50 on the left side. Go across till you intersect the edge of the curve, then go down, looks to be 26. Now count down the volt/ohm list 26 entries, looks to be 4.2V / 9.4 kohm. The next entry is 4.36V /12k Pick a resistor between 9.4k and 12k
10 K sounds good.
See how easy
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thekaz
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spell chequer is bustimicated
Posts: 2909
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posted September 28, 2006 03:12 PM
Edited By: thekaz on 28 Sep 2006 16:15
I think Ridge may have to much free time BUT thanks man
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thekaz
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Posts: 2909
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posted September 28, 2006 03:13 PM
quote:
Actually yours is a pretty good idea. I guess I got hung up on the orginal topic of zero switch time but there are other ways to take care of that.
http://www.olympus.net/personal/mbially/Nitrous2.pdf
Normally the orange wire is just connected through the relay. When you depress SW1 the relay energizes and disconnects the orange wire from the temp sensor and connects it to the Potentiometer R1. The cap C1 prevents the ECU from seeing any rapid voltage change, especially for the 1mS when the relay contact is in between the to terminals . C1 also prevents any contact bounce.
The usable voltage is 4.7 (coldest) to 2.7V. Below that there is little or no ofset. Only about half a turn of the pot will be useful. Actually I would recommend a multiturn pot. They have a little screw driver adjustment and take about 15 turns to go from end to end. They allow fine adjustment and tend to stay where you put them a lot more than the volume control type of pots. They are also nice and small.
http://info.tactnet.co.jp/copal/e/product/pdf/trimmer_potentiometers/ct94_en.pdf
www.digikey.com part number CT94W503-ND $1.68
R2 prevents the adjustment from going to low if you turn the pot all the way to the low end.
C1 values are not critical. Capacitance can be anywhere from 10uF to 33uF, Voltage anything greater than 10V. Must be polarized (have a plus/ minus) make sure you get the plus minus correct when you hook it up.
If you want to go lo tech and just stick a single resistor in there instead of Pot R1 and R2 all the info you need to pick a value is in this thread.
1st look at my Series1 graph and pick the level you want (0-70) by picking the bottom number under the level you want to try. (1-255)
2nd find that number on the left of the first graph I posted and go across till you intersect the purple map data curve, now go down and read the bottom number under that point (1-30)
3rd go to that long list of numbers, volts k ohms, and count down the list till you get to the correct value. for example it your number after step 2 is 10 count down 10 numbers in the list.
4th the voltage / resistor you want is half way between your volt / ohm and the next highest.
Example. You go to the Series 1 graph and decide on a level of 30 (left side), you go down and looks to be about 50. Then go to the Mapdata graph and find 50 on the left side. Go across till you intersect the edge of the curve, then go down, looks to be 26. Now count down the volt/ohm list 26 entries, looks to be 4.2V / 9.4 kohm. The next entry is 4.36V /12k Pick a resistor between 9.4k and 12k
10 K sounds good.
See how easy
Ridge this makes complete sence to me and I even have a corporate account with Digi-Key.
You have missed something and that is were do I send your beer to ???
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KZScott
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posted December 30, 2007 12:56 AM
status? ever get this to work right?
____________
01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 no bars, DOT tires. Pump Gas, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164.
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, Pump Gas, 55 shot.... turbo 8.32 @173
00 ZX-12R Fastest NA Kawasaki in the world 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Loring AFB Worlds fastest ZX-12R
CMG Racing RCC Turbos
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rquinn
Expert Class
Posts: 228
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posted December 30, 2007 05:55 AM
Why don't you just get the MPS Box and be finished with it Gerard
____________
RON QUINN
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KZScott
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posted December 30, 2007 01:05 PM
well this sounds like a cheap way to add a small shot. kind of an "opps button" if you mess up part of a run. or to add a small second stage(so you dont have to run a really rich map).
____________
01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 no bars, DOT tires. Pump Gas, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164.
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, Pump Gas, 55 shot.... turbo 8.32 @173
00 ZX-12R Fastest NA Kawasaki in the world 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Loring AFB Worlds fastest ZX-12R
CMG Racing RCC Turbos
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ninja12
Needs a job
Posts: 3310
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posted December 30, 2007 11:50 PM
No, I switched to wet.
Ron, MPS is not adjustable on the fuel side forceing you to run bigger pills to tune it.
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KZScott
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posted December 31, 2007 12:21 AM
did anyone save the pics from this thread? im thinking about trying this. i plan on having a data logger to tune with when the bike is together....
____________
01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 no bars, DOT tires. Pump Gas, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164.
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, Pump Gas, 55 shot.... turbo 8.32 @173
00 ZX-12R Fastest NA Kawasaki in the world 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Loring AFB Worlds fastest ZX-12R
CMG Racing RCC Turbos
|
thekaz
Needs a job
spell chequer is bustimicated
Posts: 2909
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posted December 31, 2007 01:01 AM
quote:
did anyone save the pics from this thread? im thinking about trying this. i plan on having a data logger to tune with when the bike is together....
Try PM Ridge as will probably have them and or tell you if it was a viable idea or not 
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KZScott
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posted December 31, 2007 03:21 AM
will do
____________
01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 no bars, DOT tires. Pump Gas, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164.
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, Pump Gas, 55 shot.... turbo 8.32 @173
00 ZX-12R Fastest NA Kawasaki in the world 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Loring AFB Worlds fastest ZX-12R
CMG Racing RCC Turbos
|
ridgeracer
Pro
Posts: 1309
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posted December 31, 2007 12:12 PM
It's been 15 months since I've posted here and I've learned a lot of things about the ECU. I also built a bike emulator that makes the ECU think its hooked up to a bike so I can run it on the bench. I have adjustments for all the analog inputs like TPS, SAP, and of course water temp.
Now I can actually play with the water temp values and see what happens. Here are some numbers
http://www.bikeland.info/ecu/waternos.txt
In this test condition I set TPS WOT, MAP to max and then varied the water temp at various RPM leaving every thing else the same.
It appears you can increase the fuel about 20% regardless of RPM.
This was on an A1 btw, your mileage may vary.
Here is the pdf schematic
http://www.bikeland.info/downloads/ecu/NOStemp.pdf
____________
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KZScott
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Posts: 7235
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posted December 31, 2007 03:07 PM
wow, that diagram is greek to me  can you explain it out to me and tell me what the parts are?
i would really appreciate it!
____________
01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 no bars, DOT tires. Pump Gas, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164.
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, Pump Gas, 55 shot.... turbo 8.32 @173
00 ZX-12R Fastest NA Kawasaki in the world 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Loring AFB Worlds fastest ZX-12R
CMG Racing RCC Turbos
|
thekaz
Needs a job
spell chequer is bustimicated
Posts: 2909
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posted December 31, 2007 05:30 PM
What is the advantage of modifing the sensor signal instead of replaceing it with a false signal to suit your purposes ?
HHMMM or is the ECU fast enough to see a relay bounce ? Thus cuaseing a fault ? Is this why you have added the capacitor to modified signal ?
Also why a varible R1 ...... could you not just calculate the R needed then use that ?
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ridgeracer
Pro
Posts: 1309
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posted December 31, 2007 06:13 PM
Edited By: ridgeracer on 31 Dec 2007 18:22
The normal set up has the water temp sensor connected to pin 40 (A1) or pin 58 (A2) of the ECU. The temp sensor is a variable resistor. It changes its resistance with temperature. As shown in the table above if you were to disconnect it from the ECU and put a ohm meter across it when the water temp was 176 F you would read 318 ohms. The ECU connects the temp sensor lead to 5V through a 1800 ohm resistor creating a voltage divider. This creates a voltage inside the ECU that goes up or down with temperature. The voltage increases as the water gets colder.
We can make the ECU richen up the mixture by making it think that the water is colder than it really is. To do this we need to disconnect the ECU from the resistor in the sensor and connect it to a substitute resistance.
Now we only want to do this while the NOS is on. We want to to be able to switch back to normal when the NOS is off. To do this we install a switch. When the switch is in the B position the ECU is connected to our resistance and we tell it the temperature. When the switch is in the A position the ECU is connected to the water temp sensor and operates normally.
So that we can adjust what temperature we send to the ECU and thereby adjust the extra fuel we will use a potentiometer for our substitute resistance. This is like a volume control. It has 3 leads. If the pot is a 10k then you would measure 10k ohms between the counter clockwise (CCW) terminal and the clockwise (CW) terminal. The center terminal resistance changes as you turn the pot shaft. If you turn it CW the resistance between the CW terminal and the center decreases while the resistance between the CCW increases. If you turn the shaft CCW the opposite happens. Center to CCW resistance decreases, center to CW increases.
Wired as shown with the CW and Center together wired to ground makes it act like a variable resistor. As you turn the shaft CW the resistance between the ECU pin wired to the CCW end will increase. This will make the water look colder and increase the fuel. CW more fuel, CCW less fuel.
Now if you were to turn the pot all the way CCW the resistance would go to zero and short the ECU pin to sensor ground. This causes the ECU to throw an FI LED error and go into a fault mode. To prevent that we are going to wire a resistor with a fixed value of 150 ohms between ground and the CW lead of the pot. Wired this way the resistance will never go below 150 ohms.
The resistors are marked with color bands, not numbers you want a brown, green, brown resistor. 1/4 watt carbon film. For the pot you want a 10k ohm. You should get what is called an audio or log taper pot. The resistance of the stock water sensor is not linear. That is double the temp does not double the resistance. If you use a linear pot it will be very sensitive on the CCW side of rotation then get very coarse as you move past the center of rotation.
Now I don't know how you have your current NOS setup but I'm guessing you already have a switch to turn it on and you probably don't want to have to hit two switches, one for the NOS and one for the temp fake circuit every time you turn it on and off. We can solve this problem with an electromechanical switch or relay.
It functions just like the manual switch, selecting witch resistance the the ECU sees, the water sensor or our substitute, but it can be switched electrically meaning you can use your existing NOS system to switch it automatically.
Normally when the relay is off, no voltage applied, terminals 3 and 5 are connected. This connects the ECU to the water temp sensor. When you apply 12V to the relay the electromagnet will pull the switch contact down and then terminals 3 and 4 will be connected. This will disconnect the ECU from the water sensor and connect it to our resistance.
To turn the relay on you need to put 12V across terminals 1 and 2. It doesn't care which one is positive and which one is ground. If your existing button shorts to ground then wire relay terminal 1 to your button and connect relay terminal 2 to +12V. If your existing button switches 12V then connect terminal 1 to your existing NOS button and wire 2 to ground.
DO NOT CONNECT THE RELAY TO SENSOR GROUND.
DO NOT GROUND SENSOR GROUND TO THE CHASSIS.
ONLY CONNECT THE RESISTOR CIRCUIT TO SENSOR GROUND
The last part of the circuit is a capacitor. It is a temporary voltage storage device. When the relay switches between position A and B there is a very short period of time where it is connected to neither. This will cause the ECU to go full water cold (richest possible setting) for an instant while coming off or on the NOS.
The cap charges up to what ever the current voltage is and for the instant the relay goes no contact will maintain the last known voltage for a short time. Once the relay has switched the cap will charge up or down to the new voltage and be ready for the next switch. It's kind of like an accumulator on a vacuum system.
This device is polarized meaning it has a positive and negative end. In the pic above the long leg is positive. Also note the the black arrow stripe on the bottom with the negative sign pointing at the shorter leg. The positive end goes toward the ECU pin. The negative to sensor ground.
So endeth the lesson.
____________
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thekaz
Needs a job
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posted December 31, 2007 07:43 PM
AAAHHAAAA
I made a mistake in thinking that the ECU would only richen a fixed amount under a specified tempurature
But since the richening effect is variable depending on the sensor reading is does make sence to use a potentiometer to "dial" in the wanted value
And I kinda though that is what the capacitor does just couldn't explain it as well as you did
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KZScott
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Posts: 7235
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posted December 31, 2007 09:08 PM
so that takes the temp sensor out of the circuit when the nitrous is on. im not too sure that would be a good idea. i would think that you would want to richen the mix buy a set amount lets say 15% for a 40 shot(like what we do in a power commander, set it 15% rich, and it adds 15% to whatever the ecu is putting out), no matter what the temp was. wouldnt you want to add what ever resistance equals 15% richer to the curent bike temp?
this is why im thinking this. if you dialed in a resistance that attained a good AF ratio, while having the temp senor out of the circuit. it would only work properly when the bike was at the temp you dialed it in at. if you got a good af ratio at X degrees, but the bike was 2X degrees, the ecu would think its at X degrees when we turned on the nitrous. it would be rich. if the bike was at 0.5X degrees and we turned on the nitrous, the ecu would think the bike was at X degrees and it would be lean.
am i making sense?
____________
01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 no bars, DOT tires. Pump Gas, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164.
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, Pump Gas, 55 shot.... turbo 8.32 @173
00 ZX-12R Fastest NA Kawasaki in the world 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Loring AFB Worlds fastest ZX-12R
CMG Racing RCC Turbos
|
ninja12
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posted January 01, 2008 07:55 AM
I'll bet the range at normal operating temp is very small.
It could save your hide if you hot lap and the bike would normally lean out,
now you have a save rich tune.
Ridge pm me a price to build one.
I'm more of a theory man when it come to electronics.
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ridgeracer
Pro
Posts: 1309
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posted January 01, 2008 10:41 AM
quote:
so that takes the temp sensor out of the circuit when the nitrous is on. im not too sure that would be a good idea. i would think that you would want to richen the mix buy a set amount lets say 15% for a 40 shot(like what we do in a power commander, set it 15% rich, and it adds 15% to whatever the ecu is putting out), no matter what the temp was. wouldnt you want to add what ever resistance equals 15% richer to the curent bike temp?
this is why im thinking this. if you dialed in a resistance that attained a good AF ratio, while having the temp senor out of the circuit. it would only work properly when the bike was at the temp you dialed it in at. if you got a good af ratio at X degrees, but the bike was 2X degrees, the ecu would think its at X degrees when we turned on the nitrous. it would be rich. if the bike was at 0.5X degrees and we turned on the nitrous, the ecu would think the bike was at X degrees and it would be lean.
am i making sense?
I understand what your saying and you make a valid point. Actually as luck would have it you make the bike colder, our desired adjustment, by adding resistance. This means if you want to go your route where you offset the actual temp instead of setting a temp you need only put a resistance in series.
Under normal operation the relay shorts across the pot canceling its resistance (any resistor in parallel with 0 is 0). When you turn on the NOS the relay energizes, opens the contacts, and removes the short. Now the resistance the ECU sees is the temp sensor plus the adjust pot.
No cap is needed because it never goes open circuit and no extra resistor is needed because it can never go out of range.
Let's compare the two methods...
This is a chart of temp sensor resistance vs ECU map value. Remember I said it was non-linear?
So lets try the offset example (series resistance). Lets say the bike is running at a water temp around 176F which would be map point 4. Thats a resistance of 323ohms (ohms1 actual) which the ECU converts to a map value of 3500 (map1 actual) You tweak the adjust and find your perfect NOS value is 60 degrees cooler at point 10 on the chart, 936 ohms (ohms1 adjusted) which the ECU sees as 2440 (map1 adj)
You added 613ohms and reduced the temp from 175 to 115, a 60 degree difference
Now the bike is running hotter say around 192F which is about 250 ohms (map2 actual). You haven't change the resistance so your still adding 613 ohms which makes the ECU see 863 ohms (ohm2 adj). This adjust the ECU map value from 3800 to 2518. A difference of 1282.
With the bike at 192F the same adjust setting reduced the temp to 120, a difference of 72 degrees. The bike temp went up 17 degrees the adjusted went up 12. Not to bad.
But how does all this relate to the fuel maps? Let look at them.
First between 80C and 110C (176-230F) the normal operating temp range, I don't see a lot going on. Pretty flat. So I think the first concern, that if you cut out the temp sensor the bike will lean out because it can't compensate for changes in temp is not a big deal.
The second thing I see is a lot of points where the table is flat and suddenly takes off. Using the offset method if you get a good NOS adjustment and the bike warms up your map point is going to move, possibly off the slope and into the flat zone. Looking at this data I would be a lot more concerned about going lean because I lost my NOS adjustment fuel than the normal operating range fuel.
With the set point circuit. your always going to get the same amount of additional fuel. I think given the data thats a good thing
____________
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ridgeracer
Pro
Posts: 1309
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posted January 01, 2008 09:33 PM
Seeing as it was a holiday and didn't have anything better to do today I built a prototype.
I added an LED to indicate when it was in NOS mode. I tested it on my bench ECU and it works fine. Since the stores were closed today and I had to build it out of parts on hand I used a linear potentiometer. But it is a 10 turn pot so there should be no problem with fine adjustment.
It is a working prototype but if you wanted to throw it on your bike and forget about it for several years I would buy a can of Conformal Coating Electronics Weatherproofing spray and spray the board. Left out in the elements on the bike it will eventually start to corrode.
You adjust it with a small screwdriver at the hole in the back.
____________
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KZScott
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posted January 02, 2008 06:46 AM
Edited By: KZScott on 2 Jan 2008 10:02
damn that thing is huge! LOL :P looks like it could be tucked away just about anywhere  perfect for a bike!
so is it the series version or the first design? i "may" be interested in buying it/one 
this is a quote from Wayne Lawson aka "King" :
470 ohm 1/4 watt. Cut the orange wire and solder the resistor in it will give you about 8% fuel everywhere
according to Schnitz, thats good for a 20 shot dry perfect for a small second stage, or as a single stage when running a NA map
this is a quote from Chad Pye from echo cycle aka "Skinart" :
Yes the damn ECU is to smart for its own good, any switch in the wiring no matter how fast it will turn the FI light on and kill the bike @ WOT.
So you can switch it on the fly, Il have to draw up a small diagram as to what we made, it uses a small timer to connect the resistor first and then the timer kills the normal circuit after the first circuit has allready been connected, this way the wire is never actually broken, it has around a 0.1 second delay, then another little box that has a tiny relay and capasistors so it does the opisite when off the button, the capasitors takes about .3 of a second to drain which then stops the relay taking itback to stock temp sensor.
I am actually using an adjustable resistor which can be turned up or down to fine tune the ECU enrichining depending on how much nitrous you are adding.
Im addking 90hp dry with no powercommander or timing retard, I know I should take a few degrees out for optimal power but I aint blowing no more money on this n/a engine, im spending it all on a turbo setup.
251 STD totally stock internals, 163 on the engine.
(that was tuned on a dyno with a sniffer) Im sure you can get more out of that than me RR. is it similar to what you made?
thx!
____________
01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 no bars, DOT tires. Pump Gas, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164.
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, Pump Gas, 55 shot.... turbo 8.32 @173
00 ZX-12R Fastest NA Kawasaki in the world 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Loring AFB Worlds fastest ZX-12R
CMG Racing RCC Turbos
|
ridgeracer
Pro
Posts: 1309
|
posted January 02, 2008 08:34 PM
What they are talking about is like the first design, the set point, not the series.
The 470 ohm the first guy is talking about would set the temp to about 20C (68F).
The second guys are doing the same thing with an adjustable resistor. It sounds like they went through a lot of trouble, building a make before break circuit with a timer when all they needed was a simple cap in parallel.
As for the one I built I don't have a Nitrous system on my bike and my bike is not a ZX-12 so if some one wants to test this prototype one let me know.
____________
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KZScott
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Posts: 7235
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posted January 02, 2008 09:34 PM
Edited By: KZScott on 2 Jan 2008 22:09
i wont be able to do testing for awhile, but i would be happy to do so when i get my motor together (and get the rest of the parts i need, data logger, ect) if nobody else wants to step up.
____________
01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 no bars, DOT tires. Pump Gas, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164.
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, Pump Gas, 55 shot.... turbo 8.32 @173
00 ZX-12R Fastest NA Kawasaki in the world 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Loring AFB Worlds fastest ZX-12R
CMG Racing RCC Turbos
|
KZScott
Needs a life
high on speed
Posts: 7235
|
posted May 14, 2008 04:04 PM
RR Im interested in testing the prototype. my motor should be going together soon and i have an LM-1 with rpm kit
____________
01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 no bars, DOT tires. Pump Gas, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164.
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, Pump Gas, 55 shot.... turbo 8.32 @173
00 ZX-12R Fastest NA Kawasaki in the world 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Loring AFB Worlds fastest ZX-12R
CMG Racing RCC Turbos
|
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