posted September 13, 2006 03:27 PM
i was thinkng about that kit this winter as well, i also thought since i have the zx14 now among my 5 other bikes going ahead to the 1427 that muzzy has! it is a drag bike why not put in a drag motor! I CANT FIND ANYONE WITH ONE TO TELL ME PROS AND CONS? i knowe 2 guys with 1270 and they ride all the times everyday all year pretty much, no problems at bike week as well. but the 1375 is still a mystrey to me there was a trhead on the 1317 here or over on zx.org cant remamber do a search!
posted September 13, 2006 08:00 PM
The only con I can think of is hard hot starting with the stock battery. I had no overheating issues. I noticed no more vibes even with the counterbalancer removed. If it's sheer torque you want, go for it. It's got it. If you want more hp for flying down the staights, I'd opt for the 1270 or 1290 kits. Much easier and cheaper to do since the motor doesn't need to come out. Probably more reliable in the long run also.
posted September 14, 2006 05:31 AM
Edited By: Y2KZX12R on 14 Sep 2006 06:32
quote:The only con I can think of is hard hot starting with the stock battery. I had no overheating issues. I noticed no more vibes even with the counterbalancer removed. If it's sheer torque you want, go for it. It's got it. If you want more hp for flying down the staights, I'd opt for the 1270 or 1290 kits. Much easier and cheaper to do since the motor doesn't need to come out. Probably more reliable in the long run also.
+1
I like it. Its the combination the bike should have had from the factory.
I also didnt notice any additional vibration to speak of. But to really compare vibration one would have to ride them both back to back.
You will need to add a second small 4ah battery in the rear seat storage area and run two battery cables. Its very easy to do and will cost about $40.
You will need a PC-III.
Muzzys may have a 20% off sale this fall again, so you might want to wait and order your kit in oct/nov when the sale is on.
posted September 14, 2006 10:56 AM
Them big strokers run a little warm down South. Entropy has been running a 1427 for a long time now he knows all the ins and outs. If your serious about it then get a hold of him. For the street I would think a 1270 or 1290 would work well and last a little longer, but if you can control the overheating and starting issues then a 1375 or 1394 might be to your likeing. Buddy, Osti33, MadMike, and a handful of others might be able to give you a little more insight. If ya got to have the big monster 1427 don't skimp on the rods.
I hope to have my little squirt stroker ready by the end of October.
Keep us up-to-date on what you decide.
____________
TFA 200MPH CLUB MEMBER!
posted September 14, 2006 07:58 PM
I've ridden my 2k 1361 for the last 3 years and love it. With over 20K miles, It has never over heated, but it can be hard to start when the engine is hot. I pull away from those who try to race me so fast, they often want me to pull over to see what I'm riding. I had a master mechanic, Mike Velasco, build mine. Doing it right makes all the difference. My only regret is that I haven't come up with another cost effective HP upgrade, 212 rwhp and counting ____________
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posted September 15, 2006 05:32 AM
With regards to racing on a race track...
Been there done that with a 1270 bike. Fun! But I could turn faster lap times on my SV650. Yah, 190 was possible on the front straight. But you gotta slow down and turn after that, and that's umm...not the 12R's forte. But still, great fun wheeling up and over hills, lighting it up out of the slow corners, stuff like that. Honestly, coming on to the front straight, if I could see it ahead of me, I could pass it. But it was a truck in the corners, even 70 lbs lighter than stock.
____________
82 Gpz750, 84 Ninja 900, 2000 ZX12R (Muzzy Big Bore Kit), *another* 2000 ZX12R (Muzzy custom stroke crank 1341cc motor), 2004 ZZR1200, 2005 ZX10R, 2007 ZX14, 2008 Concours 14, 2014 Versys 650, 2014 Yamaha WR450F, 2015 Ninja H2
quote:I've ridden my 2k 1361 for the last 3 years and love it. With over 20K miles, It has never over heated, but it can be hard to start when the engine is hot. I pull away from those who try to race me so fast, they often want me to pull over to see what I'm riding. I had a master mechanic, Mike Velasco, build mine. Doing it right makes all the difference. My only regret is that I haven't come up with another cost effective HP upgrade, 212 rwhp and counting
How long do you think it would last with 15-20 passes a week?
Throw a little nitrous and a few late and missed shifts.
Can someone explain to me why missed shifts turn into knocking rods?
I could understand floating a valve but not the rods with no valve damage.
quote:I've ridden my 2k 1361 for the last 3 years and love it. With over 20K miles, It has never over heated, but it can be hard to start when the engine is hot. I pull away from those who try to race me so fast, they often want me to pull over to see what I'm riding. I had a master mechanic, Mike Velasco, build mine. Doing it right makes all the difference. My only regret is that I haven't come up with another cost effective HP upgrade, 212 rwhp and counting
How long do you think it would last with 15-20 passes a week?
Throw a little nitrous and a few late and missed shifts. Can someone explain to me why missed shifts turn into knocking rods?
I could understand floating a valve but not the rods with no valve damage.
G.
I have been asking that question for 5 years with no answer.
in fact what i usually get is "no harm to running into the limiter..."
I have no proof but my guts tell me that running into the limiter is bad ju-ju for rod bearings.
____________
This moderator uses moderation in moderation
posted September 16, 2006 09:25 PM
"Running into the limiter" OR intermittant ignition/ fuel at very high rpm IS very bad and can cause apparently unrelated damage because it causes extreme torsional load variations in the crank and odd tension/compression loads in the rods/pins and bearings.
Parts that might be "on the edge" can be pushed "over the edge" by these out-of-phase load fluctuations.
posted September 17, 2006 02:13 AM
Perhaps while u are building ur 1375 u might wan to cheeck on the Rod bolts i had the #1 rod bolt rubbing against the engine casing i called up muzzys and they told mi it happens in 1 out of 20 bikes, so i gotts open up everything agin and grind off the part where it is rubbing hmmm... wonder if did anyone wif the 1375 here encounter this too ?? i dun remember reading bout it here
quote:"Running into the limiter" OR intermittant ignition/ fuel at very high rpm IS very bad and can cause apparently unrelated damage because it causes extreme torsional load variations in the crank and odd tension/compression loads in the rods/pins and bearings.
Parts that might be "on the edge" can be pushed "over the edge" by these out-of-phase load fluctuations.
quote:Perhaps while u are building ur 1375 u might wan to cheeck on the Rod bolts i had the #1 rod bolt rubbing against the engine casing i called up muzzys and they told mi it happens in 1 out of 20 bikes, so i gotts open up everything agin and grind off the part where it is rubbing hmmm... wonder if did anyone wif the 1375 here encounter this too ?? i dun remember reading bout it here
Yes someone here did have the same problem. I had to grind my cases also for clearance on the number 4 rod bolts. I think I still have the pics. I'll try to find them.
posted September 17, 2006 07:59 PM
I'm sorry some of you need to learn this the "hard way", but ANYTIME you use non standard parts you MUST do a dry fit or test assembly to ensure clearances. This is standard operating procedure in building race engines. The factory ensures only that their parts fit together and aftermarket suppliers can only make a best effort based on the exmples that they have. There is really no way to forsee all the variations in the non-machined areas of castings. I'm pretty sure that this is in the instructions for the cranks (if they're still sending the ones I wrote).
Doug
quote:I'm sorry some of you need to learn this the "hard way", but ANYTIME you use non standard parts you MUST do a dry fit or test assembly to ensure clearances. This is standard operating procedure in building race engines. The factory ensures only that their parts fit together and aftermarket suppliers can only make a best effort based on the exmples that they have. There is really no way to forsee all the variations in the non-machined areas of castings. I'm pretty sure that this is in the instructions for the cranks (if they're still sending the ones I wrote).
Doug
Nope Doug, did not receive any instructions for the cranks ..... did not receive any intstructions for anything sent to mi ......... only my bill ..... Mr Doug how i wish u were still at Muzzys.....
quote:I'm sorry some of you need to learn this the "hard way", but ANYTIME you use non standard parts you MUST do a dry fit or test assembly to ensure clearances. This is standard operating procedure in building race engines. The factory ensures only that their parts fit together and aftermarket suppliers can only make a best effort based on the exmples that they have. There is really no way to forsee all the variations in the non-machined areas of castings. I'm pretty sure that this is in the instructions for the cranks (if they're still sending the ones I wrote).
Doug
No worries here Doug. That was a dry fit for me a few years ago. I just took it all apart and ground out the lower case half a little. It was no problem at all.
Ryan
posted September 23, 2006 11:28 AM
allo Guys what about the Muzzy 1317cc need some info
and do you have the dyno chart of the 1270cc 1317cc 1375cc
bonneville kit 1347cc do you have the website and do you have info
I know i am asking a lot of questions, because i realy want to make the best decision for my projet power and durability
http://www.muzzys.com/ZX1317/index.htm
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posted September 13, 2006 11:50 AM
posted September 13, 2006 03:27 PM
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