VincentHill
Needs a life
Posts: 6520
|
posted August 25, 2006 12:37 PM
You are spending a "Lot" of money or have a lot of friends. If you have no Warranty then all of this is understandable! if you do have a warranty then it is not understandable. SO please answer that question?
____________
Made History @ Daytona and still one fast old man!!
  
|
jus1975
Expert Class
Posts: 402
|
posted August 26, 2006 10:12 AM
NO warranty
|
VincentHill
Needs a life
Posts: 6520
|
posted August 26, 2006 04:57 PM
quote:
NO warranty
Now everything is 100% clear! If you have anyone that has a bike like yours, it is Better to test your parts on a running Bike than to test parts from a Running bike on yours for 2 reasons. #1, there is no way to know if the part you are testing on your bike is the problem and may not make it run and #2, if the part is bad, the running bike will not run! Most bad parts will not harm a working bike but a bike with a problem may injure a good part!
____________
Made History @ Daytona and still one fast old man!!
|
jus1975
Expert Class
Posts: 402
|
posted August 26, 2006 06:41 PM
I wish it was that easy. There is only one other and it is a 2000 model. So Alot of the parts in qquestion will not work on his. We are a chosen few around here. If I had a Busa then it is unlimited who I could ask. At any given night on the weekend there are at least 20 Busa amoung 30 bikes.
|
blubyu
Expert Class
Posts: 209
|
posted August 27, 2006 05:21 AM
Jus,
Where are you located?
|
jus1975
Expert Class
Posts: 402
|
posted August 27, 2006 05:57 PM
roanoke, va
|
jus1975
Expert Class
Posts: 402
|
posted September 06, 2006 06:42 PM
UPDATE
Replaced the main harness and crank sensor. Still will not start. Going to check the sub harness at the injectors.
|
maximus
Needs a job
Posts: 4156
|
posted September 07, 2006 05:49 AM
some how i get the feeling you are missing something and it is going to simple.
|
jus1975
Expert Class
Posts: 402
|
posted September 07, 2006 04:49 PM
I said the same thing when I started but apparently I have not found it yet. Can anyone please help. There is not much left to change.
|
thekaz
Needs a job
spell chequer is bustimicated
Posts: 2909
|
posted September 07, 2006 05:05 PM
quote:
some how i get the feeling you are missing something and it is going to simple.
+1
|
jus1975
Expert Class
Posts: 402
|
posted September 07, 2006 05:39 PM
Well does anyone have a clue?
|
blitzkrieg
Needs a job
Road kill = Free lunch.
Posts: 2044
|
posted September 07, 2006 06:22 PM
So you know, you CANNOT test an ECU.
It cannot be done.
The above is directly from Kawasaki to me three years ago.
The R&R is to replace it "with a known working unit".
____________
"BTW....You need to get a girlfriend who's last name isn't .jpg"
|
blitzkrieg
Needs a job
Road kill = Free lunch.
Posts: 2044
|
posted September 07, 2006 06:25 PM
Also, tell me you did NOT jump the bike off a car with jumper cables.
____________
"BTW....You need to get a girlfriend who's last name isn't .jpg"
|
speedgene
Zone Head
Posts: 996
|
posted September 08, 2006 05:23 AM
You're not smelling raw gas out of the exhaust, are you? Short of the side stand safety switch, you can narrow it down and eliminate two engine related variables? You can chase spark and compression on the bike, because you hold the fuel = WD-40.
Either lightly saturate all 4 cylinders with WD (thru the service windows).... or, crank away (recommended) and spray one cylinder thru the velocity stack until it fires off? If it does, you have spark, compression, and fuel(WD-40).
Fuel is your problem..... No?
____________
E-tard
|
thekaz
Needs a job
spell chequer is bustimicated
Posts: 2909
|
posted September 08, 2006 08:29 AM
This thread has even confused me 
It maybe time to drink some beers then in the morning "start" from scratch.....
Right from the beginning....
I have to do this at work once in awhile when some bus is just confusing the crap out of me. I just walk away for awhile then comeback and start all over again....
|
jus1975
Expert Class
Posts: 402
|
posted September 08, 2006 11:16 AM
Let me clear the air on what has happened.
I did jump the bike off a car.(stupid me) I know now.
I have replaced the following because they checked bad
ECU
Junction box
all fuses and relays
turn over switch
main harness
crank sensor
battery
I dont have fuel or spark
I am next going to replace the sub harness. I checked for contunity thru the sub harness from the crank sensor and I noticed high resistance.
I have been without my bike since the 4th of July. The weather has changed and I would like to ride and show off some of the mods I have done.
So is there any advice you guys can give me. And there is no one that I can take it too. And there is no warranty. So I am alone on this one.
|
jus1975
Expert Class
Posts: 402
|
posted September 10, 2006 08:44 AM
No info from anyone
|
thekaz
Needs a job
spell chequer is bustimicated
Posts: 2909
|
posted September 10, 2006 08:50 AM
my manual is at work sorry given me a couple of hours
|
entropy
Moderator
Posts: 8671
|
posted September 10, 2006 09:17 AM
 Edited By: entropy on 10 Sep 2006 10:19
quote:
No info from anyone
where are you located??
amswered my own Q; Roanoke VA. eh?
there have got to be a ton of folks not too far away. Even Spencer Cycle in NC isn't that far. Take it to Doug, he'll fix it toot-sweet!!!
it is difficult to assess from a distance.
____________
This moderator uses moderation in moderation
|
speedgene
Zone Head
Posts: 996
|
posted September 10, 2006 12:07 PM
Showing off mods? Pull anything mod that interfers with the electircs...e.g., pcom, tre, etc.
Are you sure the "fall over" switch is properly working? Tip the bike over, and that sensor shuts off spark and fuel!
____________
E-tard
|
canadamaxxer
Pro
Posts: 1090
|
posted September 10, 2006 05:15 PM
The next thing I would do in this situation is to check for power at all of the injector harness connectors as well as all of the coils (that's where the noid lights become very hand). The ECU provides a toggling ground to control both spark and fuel. If there is power to all of these components, you have eliminated most of the fuse related issues. If there is no power, you need to trace back to the absence of power, and that is where the service manual schematics will be so important.
Once the determination of power is made, then confirmation of toggling grounds needs to be made. I suspect this is where the problem will show itself and this leads back to the ECU....but does not condemn the ECU (yet). You need to confirm all of the power sources to the ECU and confirm the quality of the grounds (electronics require a maximum of .1 ohm resistance per connection typically). If all of the power and grounds are ok, you need to confirm sensor inputs. The crank and cam sensors are an absolute requirement to fire this engine, but the MAP sensor and TPS are not (to at least make the bike cough), and of course the tip over switch is needed.
This situation really shows off the shortcomings of the ECU's used up until recently......to have the ability to scan the ECU and see what sensors are working or not.....would be such an asset at this time.
|
BROOKLYNNYZX12
Zone Head
Posts: 520
|
posted September 10, 2006 07:15 PM
Just a reminder that the 2004 ZX12 has the double throttle bodies,and the harness is not inter-changeable with earlier models,ECU's are different also..I dont know how you got so deep into this but it's too late for the K.I.S.S. method now.You had a running bike with a dead battery,you boosted it with a car and now its dead....so much stuff has been changed you will never be able to pin point what was wrong initially.
|
blitzkrieg
Needs a job
Road kill = Free lunch.
Posts: 2044
|
posted September 10, 2006 07:59 PM
Jus, the jump starting from a car/truck can open up a whole can of worms.
Just by looking at what all you have replaced because they "checked bad" scares me.
I hope you haven't replaced a lot of unnecessary stuff. As Brooklyn alluded to above, it's extremely rare (unheard of in my experience) to have multiple failures like you list above.
Generally if you really screw up (jump starting from a car falls under that umbrella IMO - no offense, live and learn) you will fuck up one part of the system and it's failure will protect the other parts down the line.
Generally.
You need to get together with somebody and a multi-meter and start tracking down where the power stops.
First piece of advice I would give you from what I read above is make absolutely CERTAIN you have not blown a fuseable link. I have heard of this happening under the right circumstances when jumping from a car/truck (60+ AMP alternators could kick-start Frankenstein).
If you were closer I'd be more than happy to help, but VA is a long way from CO.
____________
"BTW....You need to get a girlfriend who's last name isn't .jpg"
|
thekaz
Needs a job
spell chequer is bustimicated
Posts: 2909
|
posted September 10, 2006 08:11 PM
FYI jump starting a bike with a full sized vehicle is Ok to do assuming that you do it properly ....
OH wait jumpstarting ANY fuel injected vehicle is Ok as long as you do it properly.....
This bike has obviously suffered a hurendious voltage spike during the jump start and the ONLY way to fix it will be hours of work
Bro if you were on the west coast i would work for beer ( canadian of course ) but if you can bring it to a shop and ask i you can work a deal or something ???
|
blitzkrieg
Needs a job
Road kill = Free lunch.
Posts: 2044
|
posted September 10, 2006 08:47 PM
Okay. What is the proper way?
I know, but 95% of the people I talk to do not which is why so many electrical systems get fried.
I've PM'ed Jus the correct answer. 
____________
"BTW....You need to get a girlfriend who's last name isn't .jpg"
|
|
|
HOME
NEW TOPIC