posted July 20, 2007 06:26 PM
Edited By: ridgeracer on 20 Jul 2007 19:31
I got the plugs, thanks. In looking at them I learned something new. So of you may have already figured this out but for those of you who haven't.
On the bottom of the ECU connector, on the A1s at least, there is this white piece of plastic.
If you push it in with your fingernail two tabs on the other side pop up.
When those tabs are up you can remove the pins from the connector by simply pulling on the wire. After moving the wires around simply push down on the two top tabs to lock the pins in again.
I know, so what. Well it's true this of little use to most of you but for those of you who plan to make use of the BDM modification to reprogram your ECUs it means I will probably be able to devise a way to reflash the ECU without having to unplug it from the wire harness and remove it from the bike every time you want to program it.
In addition to hooking the BDM port exposed by notching the back of the ECU to the programmer you need to apply power to the ECU through the normal power pins. Also if you want to erase or program the ECU you have to apply a program voltage to pin 29 which currently has no wire connected to it. I had originally planned to have people remove the ECU from the bike and hook up a power, gnd, and program voltage wire to the ECU pins then plug it into the programmer BDM port.
With this discovery I think it would now be very easy to remove one of the unused "Input Signal to Memory" wires and stick it in pin 29. That would make the programming voltage input available on the diagnostic plug of the wire harness. As for the BDM port instead of unplugging the ribbon cable at the ECU unplug it at the programmer and leave it hanging out of the ECU.
Set up this way all you would have to do is plug in the programmer to the ribbon cable header, turn on the key, and apply programming voltage to the correct pin of the diagnostic connector (its next to the wire that reads out the FI codes) and program the unit. I don't know if I would leave the ribbon cable hanging off the ECU forever, but for the few days or weeks it would take to dial the ECU in on the dyno or during road testing it would be fine.
Does anyone know if the A2, B1/B2 models have the same type locking connectors?
posted July 25, 2007 10:02 AM
Edited By: ridgeracer on 25 Jul 2007 11:59
Last night I finished the basic wiring for the emulator....
Not the prettiest thing I've ever fabricated but it should work. Looks better closed up.
I used filament bulbs to show when the coils (red) and injectors (blue) are firing plus they act as low resistance loads so the ECU thinks its hooked up to something. I have adjustments for all the sensors; air temp, pressure, etc. Ignition switch, starter switch, and diagnostic switch. Also gear selector. I just hardwired things like clutch, sidestand, vehicle down, etc to the normal running status.
This past weekend I programmed a timing module that will generate the cam and crank timing signals. It gives me one cam pulse every 16th crank pulse and I can change the RPM between 150 to 15,000 in steps of 150 RPM.
Also because I couldn't determine with absolute certainty the timing relation of the falling edge of the cam signal to the crank I made in adjustable in one degree steps from leading, during or lagging the crank pulse.
I probably won't get a chance to hook it all up and try it out till this weekend.
BTW for you do it yourself types here is the schematic.
posted July 25, 2007 11:58 AM
Do You have connectors for the injectors and coils so You can look the signals with scope? That way You could see the dutycycles and the changes Your doing. Or how did You plan to do that?
posted July 25, 2007 01:35 PM
The cables that go between the emulator and the ecu will have test point wires to measure the injector and coil pulse widths and I'll use the crank pulses for a trigger when measuring advance.
Besides the scope I also have a Freq counter I can set up to measure the pulse widths down to a 1/10 of a microsecond (1/10,000,000th of a second)
posted July 26, 2007 05:25 AM
Edited By: ridgeracer on 26 Jul 2007 06:28
Of all the things to forget. The first time I ever looked at a ZX-12 schematic it was to trace down the speed sensor wire to figure out how to remove the restriction from my bike. I must have been looking at an A1 schematic when I went down the list to make sure I had everything.
The speed sensor won't be a hard signal to generate. It's not sync'd to anything and it just a simple 5V square wave between 0 and 4kHz. I can just use a simple signal generator output.
posted July 26, 2007 05:48 AM
Dang, RR, after making that cool speed sensor DTA box for me 2 years ago, how could you forget it ____________
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posted July 30, 2007 03:41 PM
Thanks for the info shiggsy
On another topic, This weekend I hooked up my bike emulator and it didn't work
When I turn the 'key' on the FI light does NOT come on for a couple seconds then go out. Also the ECU is NOT turning on the fuel pump relay. If I put it in neutral and press the 'starter' button the FI light flashes for as long as I hold the starter down.
I disconnect one of the sensors to see if it will throw the correct error code for that sensor and it does so I know it's kind of working. But with everything hooked up I get no error codes. I've rechecked the circuits multiple times and tried it on 3 different ECUs and they all do the same thing so I'm pretty sure its the emulator.
I was wondering if any of you have seen anything like this before? As far as I remember the FI light didn't flash when it was cranking on my A2. I didn't make an exact copy of the bike circuit. For some of the things like the sidestand and clutch lever switches I just hard wired the interlock circuit. I'm missing something basic I think.
Any way I guess my next step is to go back to the software and look at the startup routines and see what conditions need to be met to turn on the fuel pump relay and the FI light. Maybe my coil and injector bulbs don't have a low enough resistance to register as a valid device, but then you would expect it to throw an injector/coil error code.
Like I said, I'm sure its something obvious that I over looked.
posted July 30, 2007 09:52 PM
Edited By: chrisdhall on 30 Jul 2007 22:54
RR - I see the FI light behave in the way you describe.
My A1 is fitted with a Spyball alarm. With the alarm allowed to arm itself after the ignition is switch off, if I turn the ignition back on the FI light does NOT flash and when I press the starter button the FI light flashes. It sounds like the emulator bike won't start in the same way the alarm prevents my bike from starting.
Unfortunately I didn't fit the alarm so I'm not sure how it's wired in. I'll see if I can work out how it's been connected up.
posted July 31, 2007 03:45 AM
One thing that comes to mind is that I remember somone mentioning that there is a extra resistor in the ignition lock that has to be connected so the ECU knows that the ignition lock isin't just bypassed...
quote:One thing that comes to mind is that I remember somone mentioning that there is a extra resistor in the ignition lock that has to be connected so the ECU knows that the ignition lock isin't just bypassed...
That triggered a memory, from the archives....
quote:
Brown and Grey - Ignition
These are the ones we are interested in measuring the voltage on. The other three are for the lights and such. Both of these wires should indicate voltage when the switch is turned on. The trick is that the voltage of the brown wire should NOT be the same as the grey wire. What the numerical reading of the two is not as critical as the fact that the two are not the same value.
posted July 31, 2007 06:40 AM
OK this is starting to make sense now.
When I was wiring up the box I looked at the power and noticed 3 power wires. One is unswitched and I traced out to the CPU Vstdby. It maintains CPU memory (error codes) when the key is off. The one to pin 17 is a heavy gauge wire coming from the ECU power relay via a 10 amp fuse. The brown ignition switch wire powers the relay and it powers the ECU. The gray wire I couldn't figure out. It's a small gauge signal wire the goes straight from the ignition switch to the ECU.
At the time I couldn't figure out what the grey wire was for. I tried to trace it out in the ECU. It didn't go to the power supply and my trace ended in some unmarked components I couldn't identify. So I just hooked it up to my 'ignition switch' . And actually last night I was thinking about it again because the grey wire would supply power an instant before the relay switched power. I was wondering if there was a timing issue.
The resistor makes more sense however. I did a quick google and found some boards where they build midget racers using ZX-12 motors and they had the info on using a non-stock ignition switch. The grey wire gets a series resistor. Some say its a 100 ohm resistor, some a 150 ohms. I'll start with the 150 and see what happens.
Thanks for the help. Once again the collective knowledge of the board saves the day
posted July 31, 2007 09:44 AM
Placing a 150 ohm resistor between 12v and pin 39, the gray wire, did the trick. Now when I turn it on the FI light turns on for two seconds and the Fuel Pump relay energizes for 4 seconds.
Unfortunately when I press the starter button the Fuel Pump turns on and two seconds later it throws and FI error. The code comes back as 23, cam sensor failure. There must be some issue with my timing signal generator. Whether its timing in relation to the crank or an actual electrical signal problem I don't know. If I disconnect the crank wire I get a code 21, crank sensor, and 23, cam sensor. So it can read the crank but not the cam and they are both the same.
I'm wondering if I have a polarity issue
BTW for the record the 150 ohm resistor drops the voltage ~4 volts and flows 26mA which works out to ~100mW so a regular 1/4 watt resistor works fine.
posted July 31, 2007 03:56 PM
Edited By: ridgeracer on 31 Jul 2007 17:07
The cam sensor was a polarity problem. Then after I got that fixed it started throwing 51,52,53,54 errors (coil open short). Apparently the ecu wasn't fooled by my light bulbs. The manual says the coil primary has a resistance of ~1 ohm. I tried a 1 ohm resistor but that didn't work either. I tried a transformer as a dummy coil load and it worked even though it was ~4 ohms. It must be looking for some kind of coil flyback pulse to test for the presence of the coils. I ended up just sticking one xfrmr on the common power lead instead of 4 individual xfrms and that worked. Then I thought you know what has a coil in it? A speaker .
Here is the result:
The red lights are coils the blue lights injectors. Cylinders are 1234 top to bottom. As you can see the cam / crank timing is pretty critical. if its off by one degree it runs 'rough' and out of phase. While it works there are about 10 clip leads and the cam/crank signal circuit is on the breadboard at the left. So I need to throw it all in the box and document my work in a new schematic before I lose the one with all my notes scribbled on it.
Also I screwed up the safety interlock. It quits if you take it out of neutral but I should be measuring injector duty cycle in no time. Some things I noticed is of course the blue lights get brighter as you increase the throttle (injector duty cycle increases) but one thing that was visible was a virtual accelerator pump. If you whack the throttle open quickly the blue light momentarily give a burst of brightness and then settles down to the value it would of been if you opened the throttle slowly.
If nothing else it looks like I will be able to test the RPM limiter mod. I'm sure you noticed in the video that the fuel cut off above 11550 and the ignition above 11700. First thing I'll have to do is flip that limiter value in the map and see just how far it will rev. My generator is limited to 15,000 but I doubt it will go that far.
posted July 31, 2007 05:49 PM
Hopefully you can increase the fuel and ignition rev limit to 12350 so it can match the 2000 zx12r ram air correction map..
would be interesting to see what fruit the 1065 ecu holds also good work
posted August 01, 2007 11:22 AM
that is one cool demonstration. and the use of a speaker is just too funny
so would i be correct to say that the purpose of this emulator is just to make sure the ECU does its job after you flash it? of course it won't tell you how well the bike will actually run on a new set of parameters, altho i suppose it would be possible to capture the output to see if it is within reasonable limits, which would ensure a bike wouldnt be damaged by extreme settings.
posted August 01, 2007 12:06 PM
One reason is for safety issues but also to test out things like being able to change the rev limiter, the speed limiter, or figure out if you can safely switch between the A/B maps while the bike is running.
The other reason is to help quantify and range the various fuel map values. All things being equal if I double a map value does it double the injector on time? How much weight does the inlet map have on the final value. Or how about the fuel pump voltage/pressure map? Does it have enough range to serve double duty as an after market injector adjustment map?
Of course you'll have to put the bike on a dyno but given the cost in money and effort to do so I think it would be nice to have some ball park ideas about how big a change to make and which maps have the biggest effect.
Also, just messing around with it I already found out some interesting things. For example did you know that on a cold day in hell at WOT near redline the injector duty cycle reaches a 100%, it flatlines full on. I say a cold day in hell because the ambient pressure needs to be below sea level, like in death valley and the temperature needs to be below freezing.
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posted July 16, 2007 07:03 AM
Edited By: 
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