wylde
Expert Class
Posts: 371
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posted March 21, 2006 11:03 AM
BREAK IN TIME ??
On a brand new bike how many of you go the recommended distance for break in ,, and how many just go balls out. what is your input,, and how many miles will you drive the bike when brand new until you open her up ?
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There you go again,,NOT being aware of yourself !
  
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countersteer
Needs a job
Didn't read the owners manual
Posts: 2207
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posted March 21, 2006 01:50 PM
i did reccomended break in for when i first got it... then when i had 1375 installed, i went balls out after like 200 miles
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Scott
Long Island, New York
2006 ZX-14, 2003 ZX-12R
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Marcos Peguero
Zone Head
Posts: 568
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posted March 22, 2006 04:21 PM
I just stated it, whent to the hiway and rip it, hard...... for 50 miles, going to Bonao, then hard on the way back. then change of oil,
ultil 1000 miles I was changing oil 3 times, dyno, then to sintetic mobil 1.
the bike just got more power and more........
my bike runs so good now (after the new rings) It does not use any oil, the oil looks very clean and its the same brand. Its just nice.....
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Y2KZX12R
Needs a job
CompetitionCNC.com
Posts: 3762
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posted March 23, 2006 06:37 AM
I'm in Naples Fla. soaking up the sun waiting for the wife to get out of a Toyota buisness meeting so I figured i'd ramble for a while on my thoughts on breakin.
The old issues with breaking in an engine are different than the issues of recent engines. Just as the breakin of a V8 engine is very different from a motorcycle engine in general.
In the past, areas of concern were the rings and camshafts.
The cams ride in cam carriers without soft bearing inserts, that should, but arnt always, assembled in perfect alignment. So there can be tight spots at the mating lines that create hot spots and can only wear in with running time. My cam cover and head showed signs of this and i'm sure its not an anomoly. The lobes get broken in within the first 15 min of initial run time. The dealers should be running in the cams on initial start up by varrying the rpms and running the engine for only a few min the first time, then giving the engine time to let the high/hot spots cool so galling doesnt happen. Any high spots left on the edges during the machining proccess get worn down. Hopefully they dont start it and let it idle for 20 min. Thats not good. Valves and guides? Well they better be good to go out of the gate or youll know very quickly.
Rings made in the last 20 or so years are round. Perfectly round when compressed to the given bore size. They dont need "seating" like rings from the 50's and 60's. But thats also because torqued bores are much rounder these days. Before torque plates, bores went ugly and distorted with high spots from the torque stresses of the head bolts when the heads were torqued before the engine was ever started. It took alot more running time to wear off the bores to the rings. Torque plates solved 90% of that problem. I dont know how much of a problem this is on "mono block" bikes of today but if i was building one i'd look carefully at it. If the bolts go all the way down past the base of the block and the cylinders are the "floating" type only supported at the base of the cylinder, then this shouldnt be much of a problem. The zx12r however has a seperate center section for the cylinders so the head bolts dont load the cylinder walls and distort them. So ring breakin is very minimal on this type of engine and the nicasil tripples longevity. If chevy had used a nicasil plating in the Vega engines they would still be on the road today.
The crank and rod bearings need almost no breakin. There should be no tight spots on all new parts and machining. This is where attention to detail comes in. If i had run my rods un resized, and used new bearings I would have had pinching at the rod big end parting line. If i had reused the bearings that were in the engine it would have been ok. They wore in as the rod caps walked. Either that or they wore in from factory misaligned rod caps. I would like to think it was the first senario. But it may have been a combination of both. ?
Anyway, the .0012" of misalignment of the rod caps (the same on all four rods) was a red flag and would have been a huge issue if new bearings were used instead of reusing the old bearing inserts. There would have been .0006"-.0008 tight spots on the cap parting lines that wouldnt NOT show up when plastiguaging the top and or bottom "oil clearance".
This is a case where the engine would have needed 1000 miles or more to "wear in" the rod bearings and if run hard before these tight spots wore in, would almost certainally lead to at the least, bearing overheating and smearing and could even spin a bearing etc.
So if you didnt put the engine together yourself, and dont know EXACTLY what you have in there, then you cant be certain what type of breakin the engine requires. So you need to assume that the engineers are asking for these extended breakins on new bikes to cover anomolies in production tolerances and assembly. Unless you take the thing completely apart you just dont know. Besides they have to warranty the engine with any imperfections it might have, so they need to be conservative.
My 1375 that has been heat cycled 3 times up to operating temp and back to room temp, about 10 min each time, will be ready to make full power after just a few min of riding . And able to sustain full power after a short "breakin" of a few dozen miles or about 15-20 min on the dyno.
If i had replaced the main bearings and didnt line hone the block there would be tight spots similar to the situation with the rods but not as much, being the main bores were only out .0003"across the parting line. This would require at least a several hundred mile breakin. Thats the reason the main bearings wernt changed. They were "worn in", in the right places and would alow a much shorter breakin.
I cant see any reason the tranny would need much breakin on a new bike as far as durability. I know they shift better and better as they wear in. This must be because the gears start to slide easier on the shafts. Much the same reason the shifting feals better after an oil change.
Anyone ready for a cocktail yet?
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Y2KZX12R
Needs a job
CompetitionCNC.com
Posts: 3762
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posted March 30, 2006 11:06 AM
This is an interesting web page. I have some problems with some of his ideas thou.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
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Y2KZX12R
CompetitionCNC.com
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