girthy
Expert Class
Posts: 202
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posted February 23, 2006 04:15 PM
any suggestions on valve adjustments (pics)
Well, the 12 has 16,000 miles on the ticker, valves have never been checked. I am going to swing the motor so I can see what the hell Im doing ..LOL. I have it ready to swing down, I am going to do that monday night. (was getting late last night). I have never done this before, any words of wisdom?? tips or tricks? My valve cover started to seeep oil pretty bad, I snapped a few pics. I will take some more pics monday night,
Gonna wrap the muzzy again too
  
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MadMike
Moderator
FEAR THE BLACK FLAG!!!!!!!!
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posted February 23, 2006 04:32 PM
your cam sensor is leaking...
take your time....
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tuusinii
Pro
Posts: 1031
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posted February 24, 2006 12:28 AM
Yeah what he said. I also first thought that it was the cover but changing the seal didn't help so I found it to be the sensor. And You really don't have to swing the engine or even remove the radiator. Yes it's a little tight but You have all the space You'll need. Just remove lover fairing, ram-air covers and tubes, throttle cables and all the KLEEN stuff over the cover and You'll ready to go. Just take it easy on the first try..
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girthy
Expert Class
Posts: 202
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posted February 24, 2006 02:56 AM
Well, I had to wrap my pipe again anyway. So I figure I just do it all at the same time.
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MadMike
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posted February 24, 2006 05:15 AM
yep it is very easy from here unless you need to change a shim...
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vozizm
Needs a job
Got Nothing Witty To Say
Posts: 4417
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posted February 24, 2006 08:11 AM
what was the fix for the cam sensor?
mine also has the leak, just not as bad as Girth's pic... I too thought it was the valve cover gasket..
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VOZ
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vozizm
Needs a job
Got Nothing Witty To Say
Posts: 4417
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posted February 24, 2006 08:12 AM
Girth, there is a Black Wrap for the pipe, might hide dirt a tad better!
Just dont ask Blitz for help, im not even gonna go into what he said 
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VOZ
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Black-ZZR
Pro
Posts: 1229
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posted February 24, 2006 10:59 AM
I got a OEM service manual for the 2000 12r in german, lemme know if I can be at any help with that!
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blitzkrieg
Needs a job
Road kill = Free lunch.
Posts: 2044
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posted February 24, 2006 06:16 PM
Don't swing the motor. You're wasting your time with that.
Gimme a call if you need some pointers.
This is not something you want to dive into blind.
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girthy
Expert Class
Posts: 202
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posted February 25, 2006 05:09 AM
Voz, that is the black wrap, It turns white after a few years.... and some wet weather riding
Stef, thanks, I have the Kaw manual , plus, I dont speak German, so how would that help me bro?  
Blitz, thanks for the offer, I may call you Monday night. I thought swinging the motor made more room, Gawd, changing the plugs was a bitch, My thought was that because this was my first time doing this, it would be easier with a lot more room.
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entropy
Moderator
Posts: 8671
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posted February 25, 2006 05:46 AM
it's a lot easier swinging the motor, and since you have the exhaust off, you are just a few bolts away, why not???
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blitzkrieg
Needs a job
Road kill = Free lunch.
Posts: 2044
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posted February 25, 2006 02:33 PM
I've got gorilla hands and don't have any problems with the motor in, but I do use an air ratchet which makes it a helluva lot easier I guess.
I'll wrap up the document I did with pics and stuff for doing the valves tonight so I can email it to you (and Mark and Voz and anybody else that wants it). Its all in the manual, but a step by step pictorial can really help the first time around.
Just remember you are going to have to round up a digital micrometer or caliper (I have a really good SPI digital micrometer) as you won't be able to read the size markings on about half of the shims.
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girthy
Expert Class
Posts: 202
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posted February 25, 2006 02:57 PM
 Edited By: girthy on 25 Feb 2006 15:10
Got the mics, I was a CNC mill programmer for 10 years. Got an air ratchet too. The pics and documents would be great blitz. Thanks dewd -- you got a PM
Ryanzx12r@gmail.com
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blitzkrieg
Needs a job
Road kill = Free lunch.
Posts: 2044
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posted February 25, 2006 03:39 PM
Edited By: blitzkrieg on 25 Feb 2006 15:56
You might want to give MadMike a shout about getting a shim kit ordered.
Its inifintely less hassle to have the HotCams kit than trying to deal with a dealer, most of whom won't swap shims with you for "liability" reasons (cough, bullshit), won't sell you shims out of their stock (cough,assholes) and charge you $7 per shim to order them for you which will take at least a week.
I ordered my kits from:
http://www.cyclebuy.com/shopping/shims/shimkits.htm
but was going to order future shims from MadMike since he is a site member (keep'n it in the family  )
Edit: Forgot to add - I've done four different zx-12's and they were pretty consistent as far as the intakes generally being within spec or just out of and 4-8 exhausts being out of spec by two sizes or less. A couple have been out by three sizes or more, but I suspect they were really tight from the factory.
Mostly, I have been surprised how good they all looked after 10-15k miles. The bike I did last (Outsiders) is regularly drag raced and it had the most shims out of spec number wise, but they were all pretty consistent save 2 exhausts.
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eric_The_jew
Expert Class
Posts: 266
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posted February 25, 2006 08:05 PM
Blitz, i'd like to see your valve adjustment tutorial if possible. My email is crazy4honda@hotmail.com.
Thanks
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blitzkrieg
Needs a job
Road kill = Free lunch.
Posts: 2044
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posted February 25, 2006 08:35 PM
quote:
Blitz, i'd like to see your valve adjustment tutorial if possible. My email is crazy4honda@hotmail.com.
Thanks
Sure, I'll send you a copy.
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Outsiderzx12r
Zone Head
Street Racer
Posts: 841
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posted February 26, 2006 03:28 PM
quote:
Mostly, I have been surprised how good they all looked after 10-15k miles. The bike I did last (Outsiders) is regularly drag raced and it had the most shims out of spec number wise, but they were all pretty consistent save 2 exhausts.
Do I win a prize?? 
Hey bro, could you shoot me a copy of your procedure too? Thanks man.
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OutsiderZX12R
2000 ZX12R-A1
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vozizm
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Got Nothing Witty To Say
Posts: 4417
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posted February 26, 2006 04:17 PM
Blitz, send it to me at vozizm@gmail.com
thank you very much sir...
now what about the cam sensor fix!
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VOZ
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girthy
Expert Class
Posts: 202
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posted February 26, 2006 04:28 PM
Just ordered some muzzy block off plates too to go along with this little project
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girthy
Expert Class
Posts: 202
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posted February 26, 2006 04:31 PM
Voz, Im not gonna touch my cam sensor..yet. This last summer, I saw the oil seeping from the valve cover. It had not touched the cam sensor. Cam sensor could have started leaking in the meantime. Time will tell. I think its just an o-ring though. looked around on ronayers and couldn't find it.
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vozizm
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Posts: 4417
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posted February 26, 2006 04:44 PM
just replace the o-ring on sensor, that i can do!!
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VOZ
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vozizm
Needs a job
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posted February 26, 2006 04:59 PM
is part # 92055.086 it?
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girthy
Expert Class
Posts: 202
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posted February 28, 2006 03:04 AM
Well, after pulling the kleen air crap out of the way, I decided to not swing the motor. Looks like plenty of room at this point, I just measured the valves. Im waiting for Blitz's how to before I go any farther.
Blitz, thanks again for your help!
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blitzkrieg
Needs a job
Road kill = Free lunch.
Posts: 2044
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posted February 28, 2006 03:02 PM
Edited By: blitzkrieg on 28 Feb 2006 15:04
Girthy, what you gonna adjust bro? You're within spec and on the loose end on the exhaust that are close which is where you want to be.
I wouldn't touch those shims if it were mine. I'd check it again @ 30K miles.
My guess is you were correct in that the cams were out before you bought it. Betcha a dollar the shims were done then. 
Voz, thats the cam chain tensioner (and O-ring) above, not the cam sensor.
The sensor is part # 21176 on the following fiche and they don't show a separate O-ring or gasket.
I've never had mine out, but if its just an O-ring you can get those anywhere.
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girthy
Expert Class
Posts: 202
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posted February 28, 2006 04:12 PM
Edited By: girthy on 28 Feb 2006 16:13
Ya, not too bad!!
I turned the motor, measured the valves. Then we switched and I let Bman check the valves and I recorded. Compared the sheets and we got almost the exact same thing. So I think we did it right. For the guys who have never done this, pulling the plastic and exhaust and other stuff took more time than this. Nothing is really hard, just a bit time consuming. I'll save the 450$ and know in my mind that this was done correct.
I also noticed that the stick coils all had oil on them. The gaskets around the plugs are 5 bucks a piece, so 20$ should keep them dry
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