park12r
Expert Class
Posts: 124
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posted January 21, 2006 09:48 AM
need help on coolant
the level on the coolant bootle keep dropping..i flush and fill it up with engine ice.check the gaskets,i cant find any leak on the coolant bottle or radiator...but whats the problem then..the coolant level keep dropping
  
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your car is slow
Needs a job
Fuck Nitrous...Got Boost?
Posts: 4089
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posted January 21, 2006 10:00 AM
changed the oil recently?
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park12r
Expert Class
Posts: 124
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posted January 21, 2006 10:15 AM
ya..
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MadMike
Moderator
FEAR THE BLACK FLAG!!!!!!!!
Posts: 6579
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posted January 21, 2006 11:27 AM
you could have a blown head gasket, and the fluid is burning away.. I think that Entropy had that same problem once...
MM
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osti33
Needs a job
Posts: 2973
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posted January 21, 2006 02:12 PM
quote:
you could have a blown head gasket, and the fluid is burning away.. I think that Entropy had that same problem once...
MM
Yep. Me too.
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entropy
Moderator
Posts: 8671
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posted January 21, 2006 03:48 PM
Yep, when the bike is running, fully warmed up, maybe a lil hot, temp guage at 10pm, look for bubbles in the overflow bottle. If there is even 1 or 2, it's time to change the head gasket, have the block milled a few thou. 
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park12r
Expert Class
Posts: 124
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posted January 21, 2006 04:54 PM
i did change the gasket recently..and check ,its not the problem
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slug
Pro
Out in search of my mind...
Posts: 1433
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posted January 22, 2006 10:39 AM
look for any place that could be the source, clean well and powder with baby powder.
start & run, let it get to fan on temp and shut off. look at baby powder for droplets or small trails.
if nothing outside, check for bad seal on water pump shaft or other areas that would let water inside crankcase.
slow leaks the water will evap so oil level/quality never suffers.
 
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speedgene
Zone Head
Posts: 996
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posted January 22, 2006 04:34 PM
1.Smell the tailpipe. If it gives off a smell that is not normal exhaust, could be water burning away. Coolant burn has a distinct smell.
2. Pull each spark plug. Note if the plug looks like it's as if brand new? This will pin-point which cylinder is getting steam. Warped head, loose/stretched head bolts/studs could determine failure? These are just a few checks of many.
3. Remove radiator cap and light the bike up. In a few seconds, compression will push the escaping air into the water jackets and up to the radiator filler neck. Look for bubbles.
4. Take a compression test. This will determine if one outside cylinder or two opposing cylinders are helping to lose compression at the cracked/burned/ect. head gasket/area.
5.Pressure test the cooling system with a special pressure tester...has radiator filler neck adaptors in with the kit. Pressure test the radiator cap. Set the pressure right to redline on the gauge. Watch the needle sustain pressure, or bleed off. The leak at this pressure will show up within minutes. The cap should hold in one stroke of the pressure tester. If it bleeds off instantly, or slowly drops, this could be another leak.
6. Remove the oil filler cap. Smell oil. Look at oil for clarity, or if it's chocolate tan in color? This is a sign of water mixing with oil.
Did you re-torque the head? Are some cylinder stud threads sticking up farther than others in proportion to their height? Have you checked compression as per your recent head replacement?
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Marcos Peguero
Zone Head
Posts: 568
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posted January 23, 2006 03:52 AM
Mine had bubles and Entropy told me to check the warped head and It was warped.
I have a topic Overheat with a bit of info.
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