eric00zx12r
Novice Class
Posts: 97
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posted March 13, 2002 08:54 PM
Engine Removal question
how many of you guys have removed the motor from the bike? Looking at the Service Manual it doesn't look too hard. About how long does it take?
I'm looking to check the valves and just don't want to fight with the space between the frame and motor. Figure it would be easier and maybe more accurate to have the motor out of the bike.
Plus it would give me a chance to inspect things and maybe even clean the bike  .
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Eric
00ZX-12R
Candy Persimmon Red
  
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sailusvi
Expert Class
Posts: 216
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posted March 13, 2002 09:08 PM
cool...wish I could snatch my motor out, just cause.
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kcadby
Pro
Posts: 1733
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posted March 13, 2002 11:17 PM
It's not that big a deal...
Just be careful with the wires at the back of the motor...
I've taken 2 out so-far BY MYSELF...NOT a big deal...
Since the motor is flat on the bottom, you can put 2-2X8s together in an L-shape that the motor will sit on nicely...
IF you want to, you can just "lower" the motor by leaving the bottom rear bolt in...Take the chain off and the engine will pivot down giving you a LOT more room to work on it...
If you go THAT far though...it's no big deal to take the last bolt out and completely remove it...
The fuel lines are a TIGHT fit between the frame...
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krexken
Zone Head
Posts: 732
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posted March 14, 2002 04:06 AM
Being a person of few brain cells, I thought removing the motor sucked! Putting it back in even worse. Indeed, pay close attention to the wire and hose routing on top of the engine where they go through the frame. Once you get the valve cover off with the engine in the frame, there's more room in there than you'd expect.
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kcadby
Pro
Posts: 1733
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posted March 14, 2002 06:49 AM
 Edited By: kcadby on 14 Mar 2002 06:51
Forgot to tell you...DOH 
I blocked the motor up on the floor (let motor down onto blocks)...then...lifted the bike off of it by the forks...
I'm NOT very strong  It's EASIER THAN IT SOUNDS...lift front wheel off of ground...then just move chassis to the side...
ONE ZX12 motor on floor!!!
You can do it with a floor-jack also but need someone to BALANCE THE MOTOR if you do it that way 
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dougmeyer
Needs a job
moderated
Posts: 2713
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posted March 14, 2002 07:47 AM
Althouth this isnt a DIFFICULT job (about 3-4 hours the first time), I wouldn't do it unless I had real reason to. There is always the chance you'll just screw something up the you didn't need to. There is plenty of room with the engine in the bike.
Doug
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It's not that I think you're dumb, it's just that so much of what you know isn't true....
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eric00zx12r
Novice Class
Posts: 97
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posted March 14, 2002 07:45 PM
quote:
Althouth this isnt a DIFFICULT job (about 3-4 hours the first time), I wouldn't do it unless I had real reason to. There is always the chance you'll just screw something up the you didn't need to. There is plenty of room with the engine in the bike.
Doug
I would usually agree but this will give me a chance to fully inspect all aspects of the motor and frame. I've very mechanically inclined (though I cannot spell to save my life ) and enjoy taking things appart see how they work and putting them back together.
I've had the motor in and out of soo many other bikes, cars, and trucks it's not even funny. Sometimes a pain in the ass, but always fun and educational.
I'll probably pull the engine perhaps this weekend or next week and start checking everything over real well.
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Eric
00ZX-12R
Candy Persimmon Red
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kcadby
Pro
Posts: 1733
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posted March 14, 2002 10:36 PM
Sounds like you'll be fine with it...
Most important things IMO...be careful with the wires at rear of motor when pulling motor out...
Make SURE you don't mix up the TPS and Pressure Sensor plugs when you put the motor back in!!!
The BLACK one goes to TPS and the GREY one goes to the Pressure Sensor (same side as TPS...underside of frame...above throttle bodies)...
It is VERY easy to remove the upper fairing (cowling) also to get it out of harms way...if you want to
Remove 2-screws in plastic that are in the plastic piece under the cowling (one on each side above radiator), loosen the air duct clamps at air intake OR frame, then remove the mirrors (4 nuts inside cowling), pull cowling forward then unplug THE wire...that's IT!!!
I have digital pictures I can E-mail you if want/need them to see how the wires are run to KEEP the stock (un-touched) appearance if you forget how they were when you put it back together...
I definitely needed them after it ended up taking several weeks to build Eric's 1270 motor (it had bad rod bearing  )
HAVE FUN!!!
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eric00zx12r
Novice Class
Posts: 97
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posted March 15, 2002 05:51 PM
Fuck, another long day at work. Another 100 hour week
KC, if you don't mind, I'd love to have those pics.
00zx12r@mchsi.com
I've got the manual and it shows pretty well how to route the wires, but there's nothing better than color pics
Thanks
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Eric
00ZX-12R
Candy Persimmon Red
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Dino
Pro
Posts: 1422
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posted March 15, 2002 08:36 PM
just do it!
I,ve had the motors out of 2 12's and gonna' do it again soon. If you have a MANUAL, there's nothin' to it!I HAVE A 1" plywood box that fits under the oil pan,and sits on top of a floor jack......Take the last bolt out,lower the jack, and wheel the motor out of the way! I also made a motor stand so that once out ,it is nice and steady.Sure makes working on the motor a LOT easier!!
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uh oh
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kcadby
Pro
Posts: 1733
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posted March 15, 2002 11:17 PM
GATOR! NATIONALS!!!
Been at the GATOR NATIONALS!!!
Going back tomorrow and spending the night!!!
I won't be able to send pictures till MONDAY...
MAYBE??? Sunday NIGHT...
YEEEup...manual is GOOD...
I'll send the pictures anyway if that isn't too late!!!
(I copied you E-mail address)
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MadMike
Moderator
FEAR THE BLACK FLAG!!!!!!!!
Posts: 6579
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posted March 16, 2002 06:02 AM
Hey Kevin I built a custom battey for Chris Bostick!! he is going to run it today let me know how he did in the 3rd round of qualifing!! thanks
Mike
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200-MPH CLUB MEMBER!
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eric00zx12r
Novice Class
Posts: 97
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posted March 18, 2002 07:07 PM
Wow...Just pulled the motor. It's very very easy. Took me about 3 1/2 hours. about 45 minutes spent getting the damn sprocket off. Had to use the impac and it still took a hell of a lot of work.
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Eric
00ZX-12R
Candy Persimmon Red
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kcadby
Pro
Posts: 1733
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posted March 19, 2002 11:56 PM
Told ya
Let me know if you still want the pictures???
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eric00zx12r
Novice Class
Posts: 97
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posted March 20, 2002 05:44 PM
Edited By: eric00zx12r on 20 Mar 2002 17:59
KC, I still want the pics. You can never have too many pics
I'm going to play around with posting some of the pics I took here. Hope it works
For those who don't know what a "shim under bucket" valve setup is...this is a shim.
Notice the number 45 stamped on it. That's what you use (along with a dial caliper) to determine what the shim thickness is.
This is the "bucket"
The valve
The valve with the shim in place
and finally the bucket over the valve and shim
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Eric
00ZX-12R
Candy Persimmon Red
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fish_antlers
Administrator
The Truth is Out There
Posts: 21894
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posted March 20, 2002 06:37 PM
quote:
There is plenty of room with the engine in the bike.
Doug
I dunno about that Doug... maybe if you have little "fancy hands" like you do.... but shoving my paws in there seems pretty friggin hopeless....
perhaps that space was designed to be accessed by the small Asian technicians who built the bike
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kcadby
Pro
Posts: 1733
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posted March 21, 2002 12:53 AM
Edited By: kcadby on 21 Mar 2002 00:56
DANG!!!
Looks like you took enough of yer own???
I tried to find my "best" pictures today (yesterday)...
I'll try to kind them again later (today?)...
UMMMmmm...you COULD have unpluged the horns and left them ON the bike
Nice pictures!!!
Get some hand lotion...LOL
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