Marcos Peguero
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Posts: 568
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posted September 01, 2005 02:38 PM
Overheat
I was at the track, today very hot, new BT002 tires, beating the shit out of the bike, then I saw the temp more than midle and pull over, took the reservoir cap of and lots of water came out. boiling.......
Then I take her slow to my house, goes in the midle all the way but in the lights goes to red almost
take the radiator cap off and boiling like hell, turn on the bike and I start to pur water in to the radiator......
put everything on and go for a ride, and same story, midle and almost red, and the reservoir with bubles.....
I need to find what is wrong with the bike....
Thanks
   
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trenace
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posted September 01, 2005 02:52 PM
 Edited By: trenace on 1 Sep 2005 15:56
There was likely still air in the system from the first occurrence at the track. I would just start all over again with a fresh full radiator service.
Were you using 50% glycol, that is to say, typical 50/50 antifreeze, or a glycol (propylene or ethylene glycol) that you mixed with water, preferably distilled water?
It would be better to reduce this to something like 80/20 distilled water/glycol, and use Water Wetter in correct proportion for the added water.
In other words, mix up Water Wetter and distilled water according to its directions, and then use that as the added water, after having only used only about 1.0 to 1.5 L of a premixed antifreeze rather than the 3.6 liters that would normally be used.
The best would actually be no glycol at all if the bike is never ever exposed to freezing temperatures. However, when I lived in Miami, it got down to 10 degrees F once.
You need 17 percent ethylene glycol to lower the freezing point to 10 degrees F, if that's the target. That corresponds to about 1.25 liters of 50/50 premixed antifreeze and the rest, Water with Water Wetter.
You really should not overheat if your pump is good, the radiator is clean and not blocked, there is no air in the system, and you're running mostly or entirely water with Water Wetter.
With 50/50 glcyol/water there can be a risk of overheating perhaps particularly with A models.
BTW it always makes things worse -- often much worse as happened here -- to open the system when its still overheated and above the boiling point. Had you simply let the bike cool at the track, you most likely could have ridden home just fine and only had a transient problem under that exact condition of hot day and high demands.
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Marcos Peguero
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posted September 01, 2005 02:55 PM
Good mixture I have, there must be some problem with air....
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pdb1964
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posted September 01, 2005 03:08 PM
my bike's temp goes to the middle and sometimes higher went in slow traffic when air flow is poor. Once airflow resumes, it eventually drops. Thought that was normal
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Marcos Peguero
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posted September 01, 2005 07:20 PM
cheked the water pump, verything and put 80% water and tested and its like normal, midle and 3/4 when stop.
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pdb1964
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posted September 01, 2005 08:13 PM
Mine does that too. Has done it since new. Mine's an 02.
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Miklos
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posted September 02, 2005 06:11 AM
Mine had just started to boil over going slow in traffic. Upon examination, I found the fan switch in the radiator to be defective as the fans were not coming on. I have a new switch on order and have wired up a manual switch as a backup. I also used a relay to disable the manual switch when the bike is shut off, that way avoiding draining the battery accidently.
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Marcos Peguero
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posted September 05, 2005 04:36 AM
I used Cool Down from VP racing fuels, a week ago and yesterday I found that the reserve thank was cloged with something tike mud, cleaned it and the temp is "normal"
when stoped in trafic I can see the temp go to 3/4 and the water start boiling in the reserve.
I used water wetter long time ago and noticed that the temp did not go so fast to 3/4.
Any suggestions?
Is like that the temp normal, that at 3/4 you see the bubles in the watter.?
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eastbaydave
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posted September 05, 2005 05:07 AM
IS the fan running like it should?
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Marcos Peguero
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posted September 05, 2005 05:23 AM
I think, its running a little after the temp is 3/4.
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crashtech
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posted September 05, 2005 11:24 AM
My fan comes on at 3/4 and goes off in a couple minutes when back down to 1/2. Once moving again for a while it will go down to 7-8 o'clock position.I have sat in rush hour in downtown Nashville in 95-100 degree for 20-30 minutes at a time before, also beating the shit out of it with Rog in the heat as well. Got hot only in traffic but never "boiled". I use "Liquid Performance" racing engine coolant. Of cource flushed real good and purged all air out of system.
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Marcos Peguero
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posted September 05, 2005 01:42 PM
I flushed the radiator for real, like 1 hour ago and the fan runs after the temp is 3/4, have to test it now.
I will use water wetter, to make it better....
I suspect that the water temp sensor is not righ, because, sometimes the water boils and the fan does not run.
sometimes it does before
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entropy
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posted September 05, 2005 11:47 PM
when I had "boiling" in the overflow, it was a blown head gasket...
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Ra12r
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posted September 06, 2005 06:44 AM
If it is the head gasket, it will push the water right out of the radiator or bubble real bad if you take the cap off and start it. It can/should also be giving a major white cloud of smoke out the tail piple.
A bad radiator cap can cause all kinds of cooling issues.
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entropy
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posted September 06, 2005 09:36 AM
W
my bad gasket did not display such dramatic behavior.
It only bubbled when the temp gauge was 9pm or higher, and then "modestly". However, when the temp guage hit 11pm, it bubbled more. Never had white smoke.
I did replace the rad cap, thinking that it was faulty (not so).
I have seen a couple Busas whose bubbling was also ultimately found to be bad head gaskets/warped head/block.
Real easy to fix, skim the head & block to true them, new HG, end of problem. 
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VincentHill
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posted September 06, 2005 11:57 AM
You guys all missed it. Yes, mixing the water and Antifreeze with the Water Wetter is all well and good, but the best way I have found (Using my EGT) was to richen the mixture at loser Throttle settings at all rpms. This way when you let off, the rich condition will cool the enginevery seriously and stop these problems. The better the tune of your engine (Read Lean at about 13.1 to 13.6 or above) the hotter the engine runs. Stock, if anyone looked at the graphs, the lower RPM the engines ran in the 11 to low 12's to 1. Use fuel to Cool
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Miklos
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posted September 06, 2005 01:56 PM
Vincent- I have used that theory to great success in snowmobile engines before. I does work great.
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Marcos Peguero
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posted September 06, 2005 04:27 PM
Master VH already done that long time ago, way better in the track...
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Marcos Peguero
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Posts: 568
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posted September 07, 2005 08:59 AM
Edited By: Marcos Peguero on 7 Sep 2005 10:00
Flushed everything, everything is clean, water with a bit of coolant 25% aprox.
Test (not moving the bike)
start the bike
temp starts to go up and when the temp reads 10 bubles start to apear.
then fan starts, but temp still at 10 o clock
bubles stop.
Any advice,
PS. i have a A model 1 fan only
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entropy
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posted September 07, 2005 09:59 AM
$10 bet: headgasket! small leak between cc and cooling passageway.
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eastbaydave
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posted September 08, 2005 05:37 AM
Muzzy fan? $35 upgrade & it helped my A1 run cooler....
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Enjoy the ride!
02' ZRX1200
00' ZX12R sold
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Marcos Peguero
Zone Head
Posts: 568
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posted September 08, 2005 05:44 AM
Last night i whent out with no problems at all.....
I will get the muzzy fan..
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Marcos Peguero
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posted September 13, 2005 11:49 AM
Head is out, it was easy, done in 3 hours.
The gasket was normal, head was normal ot my eyes.
Ayway the head will be checked by a especial shop that has a machine that veryfies and skim the head if necesary.
Im going to port the head, hi-vel porting with epoxy, if the head is skimed Im not going to increase the compresion by gasket if head is stock then I will do it.
Change the oil seals, since my mechanic saw them and told me that they where not 100% so Im changing them
Also I ordered a radiator cap, some fairing bolts, stering head bearings.
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entropy
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posted September 13, 2005 12:44 PM
Marcos,
have them CAREFULLY check the cyl block also. In my case it was the block which needed to be skimmed, not the head.
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Marcos Peguero
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posted September 13, 2005 12:45 PM
ok
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