aliveagain
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posted April 19, 2005 03:02 PM
APE valve springs
I removed one spring set and went to put the shim in, supplied with the kit,and it doesn't fit flush.Am I missing something or am I putting them in the wrong place?
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MadMike
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posted April 19, 2005 04:04 PM
it should stick up slightly above the Ti-Retainer...
Mad Mike
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aliveagain
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posted April 19, 2005 06:47 PM
Thanx Mike! I looked at it that way and was worried about compressing it that much.Didn't know if they would bind.I still have to buy the comp.for 70bucks.Everybody wants a C-note to instal;l them.
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MadMike
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posted April 20, 2005 04:45 AM
I hate to be the bearer of bad new's but the compresser does not come with the correct adapter, you also need to buy the adapter for the 12 spring....
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MadMike
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posted April 20, 2005 04:46 AM
where are you at? I would install it for 20 bucks and a six pack.
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aliveagain
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posted April 20, 2005 06:10 AM
Thanx Mike but it would probably take me $100 bucks in gas and tolls round trip.The compressor from Kaw is actually cheaper than Parts Unlimited and has the piece for the spring.
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MadMike
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posted April 20, 2005 07:04 AM
cool, but the part for the spring is wrong from Kawi. the one I got had a KZ adapter, make sure you request the adapter for the 12....
MM...
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NINJA12
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posted April 20, 2005 09:48 AM
I believe you have to remove the washer at the base of the guide BEFORE you install the APE shim.
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aliveagain
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posted April 20, 2005 11:09 AM
I wondered about that ,thanx Ninja12 and MM.
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MadMike
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posted April 20, 2005 12:12 PM
Yes, you do!
shim first then step shim washer.....
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aliveagain
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posted April 20, 2005 06:39 PM
When I take the valve out,should I hit it with the sand blaster to clean them up or would that mess the seat surface of the valve?Found out they couldn't just replate one cylinder because they acid dip it to remove the old plating.$395 plus shipping for the cylinders to be nikasil and something else that reduces friction.forgot already what it was but is suppose to add 3 to 4 hp.
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MadMike
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posted April 21, 2005 04:15 AM
NO SAND BLASTER!!!!
if you want to soak them in a solvent or something , make sure you dont mix them up, they need to go in where they came out of.
MM
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aliveagain
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posted April 21, 2005 06:52 AM
Thanx Mike,there is a carbon build-up around the valve seat I wanted to remove.I'll try some of the neat products we have at work.I was bored at work and blasted the inside of a compressor case to clean it out and just stay busy.Well,I didn't get it clean enough and it ended up being sucked up onto the cylinder wall.There was no deglazing that cylinder and I won't make that mistake again.Nice new compressor now!
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ninja12
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posted April 21, 2005 10:49 PM
Careful around that seat. Damage one and reach for you wallet.
One valve out at a time will save you lots of headache.
If the valves were in spec , you should not have to reshim.
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aliveagain
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posted April 22, 2005 12:31 AM
Whats the big deal with titanium retainers?Are they suppose to stay in place better?Glad to hear about the shims.While waiting for parts,I was going to mic all the shims just to have on record where I'm starting with.I have one valve out already and am going to soak it in jet fuel first then hydro-force if that doesn't work.
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ninja12
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posted April 22, 2005 04:57 AM
lighter valve train and better lock.
At 11,000 rpm any weight you can remove will help to close the valves ON TIME.
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MadMike
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posted April 22, 2005 08:00 AM
quote:
If the valves were in spec , you should not have to reshim.
I did have to re-shim about 10 of the 16 at one time... it sucked!!! and no reason as to why? never did find out why we had to? and then when I went to SS and lapped them in, everything was perfect? very weird.
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ninja12
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posted April 22, 2005 08:55 AM
I remember that Mike, but like you said very weird.
Since the valve face/seat surface has not changed, and neither the retainer nor spring influence clearance, shimming SHOULD NOT be needed.
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aliveagain
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posted April 27, 2005 01:22 PM
I just got the spring compresser.How does the bottom washer come out so I can put the shims in?If it's part of the guide,the manual says to heat head in oil,what the hell is that?
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ninja12
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posted April 27, 2005 09:05 PM
no two small pencil magnets from autozone. a can of wd40 can help break the oil grip on the parts. compressed air with a small tipped air gun MAY work as well.
a film of oil is the only thing holding these parts together. once you get one side to lift you got it made. A little patients will go a long way.
you can also use one magnet to control the keeper when removing the valves.
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MadMike
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posted April 28, 2005 03:41 AM
yep, magnet... that is what I use, same thing on the keepers. I put them in and out with a magnet...
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aliveagain
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posted April 28, 2005 02:38 PM
As always MM was right .I have part #57001-1202,valve spring comp. adapter on order.Kind of weird that they have it on a different page instead of together.I sprayed the bottom retainer with oil and it loosened right up.Tomorrow,I'll bring the stock spring with me to work so I'll know the right size magnets to get.
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