vozizm
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posted December 08, 2004 10:46 AM
N²O Controller
I have a dry system... which i really dont use much... i guess cause im a chicken shit about blowing my shit up {also have no funds for a new motor}.. anyways i digress....
would a controller help me on a dry shot.. how and why and where is the cheapest place to get one?... install a breeze?.. setup easy?...
i know i ask alot but hey... give me a break please!!
  
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your car is slow
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Fuck Nitrous...Got Boost?
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posted December 08, 2004 10:54 AM
how big of a shot.
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vozizm
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posted December 08, 2004 10:57 AM
40 sir... was thinking about goinh bigger if i could do it safely... maybe even a smaller second stage or would that be even needed with the controller?
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your car is slow
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Fuck Nitrous...Got Boost?
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posted December 08, 2004 12:47 PM
eh...wouldnt be worth it IMO for a shot that small.
Wouldnt be a bad idea to get a timing retard box (EFIR) though 
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ZXLNT
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Kawpuke Extraordinare
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posted December 08, 2004 12:48 PM
40 horsepower aint that much. You will feel it but its not violent by any means. Just dont try to spray it in 1st on a bike that isn't lowered down. Heck I would be carefull in 2nd on a stock height bike cause it WILL wheelie. Other than that if its lowered down then spray the hell out of it, it will be allright, especially with only 40 horse shot...
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vozizm
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posted December 08, 2004 12:54 PM
Wat up Z..
Yeah i have had it on bike for about 2 years now... never used on 1st or 2nd... an dyou are correct you can feel it but not that BIG BLAST.. guess thats why im asking questions... want to go bigger or maybe 2 stage like zxrichard has.. he has a switch on the throttle thingy that when at wot it triggers a 15or a 20 shot im nopt sure... then the horn button [which i have] for his bigger shot.. just trying to so it safely !!
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your car is slow
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Fuck Nitrous...Got Boost?
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posted December 08, 2004 01:30 PM
dont need a 2 stage for a 60 shot....work it son..work it!
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vozizm
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posted December 08, 2004 01:46 PM
wat about the controller?
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your car is slow
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Fuck Nitrous...Got Boost?
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posted December 08, 2004 01:56 PM
dont need oneadem either
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TurboBlew
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posted December 08, 2004 03:29 PM
Voz.. Ive got an EFIR12 for sale. NIB.
Let me know.
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vozizm
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posted December 08, 2004 05:10 PM
Steve..
At the riisk of getting beat down by the board what is a EFIR12?
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vozizm
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posted December 08, 2004 05:11 PM
Steve..
At the riisk of getting beat down by the board what is a EFIR12?
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vozizm
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posted December 08, 2004 05:14 PM
quote:
dont need a 2 stage for a 60 shot....work it son..work it!
so what cha trying to say sir?
quote:
dont need oneadem either
and why is that sir?
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TurboBlew
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posted December 08, 2004 07:15 PM
Its a box that when wired to your nitrous solenoid, retards the timing xx degrees ( you set the amount) when you spray.
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VincentHill
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posted December 09, 2004 11:08 AM
Voz, most people set their Controller to "Start" between 30 to 50 HP. In your case "More" than your Max! Even a 60 shot will not hurt you! The "Rule of Thumb is 2 dehrees for every 50 HP of Spray. Some people use this rule from the amount of Timing they already have as opposed to "Stock Timing". So if you are running 3 degrees on top, then change that to 1 or 0 Degrees and you should be OK. When I was having problems my first time out, I found that even without the Fuel side working than adding a few bars on the 3rd Button on the PC3 was enough to off set the NOS. Now to be sure, reset the PC3r on timing, Add 3or 4 bars to the 3rd button and have the dyno operator Spray from 8K with WOT and check the A/F. Now adjust from there!
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vozizm
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posted December 09, 2004 12:22 PM
no pc3r...
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vozizm
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posted December 09, 2004 12:23 PM
i do have the yosh ems, hub and 3-way map switch [thanks TB]
all new and still in box...
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VincentHill
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posted December 09, 2004 03:08 PM
quote:
i do have the yosh ems, hub and 3-way map switch [thanks TB]
all new and still in box...
Then all you have to is "INSTALL" it and put up 2 maps and be in business!!
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vozizm
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posted December 09, 2004 03:28 PM
thinking about going to my buddy Doug at spencer cycle for the maps...
gotta get my funds right first!!!
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vozizm
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posted December 09, 2004 03:29 PM
also heard most of the support for the ems has gone away...
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rac4it
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Bergie
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posted December 13, 2004 04:39 AM
You dont even need a PC3 to spray 40hp on a 12. And you dont need to pull timing at that level either. A #34 jet will make closer to +55rwhp with no other "mods", no pc3, no timing retard, and it's completely safe on a stock engine. Dont Be Scared
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Megabyte
Pro
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posted December 13, 2004 04:27 PM
quote:
You dont even need a PC3 to spray 40hp on a 12. And you dont need to pull timing at that level either. A #34 jet will make closer to +55rwhp with no other "mods", no pc3, no timing retard, and it's completely safe on a stock engine. Dont Be Scared
I've heard you don't want to be spraying when you hit the revlimiter. Do you just trust that you'll always do a safe cutoff (before revlimiter,) or is extra electronics a good idea?
Thanks,
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rac4it
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Bergie
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posted December 14, 2004 04:29 AM
Pay attention to your shifts and you wont hit the limiter. If you're scared, Schnitz makes a really cool inexpensive RPM window switch with WOT sensor.
The TPRS-001 RPM Window Switch provides a +12 volt output that is controlled my RPM and/or a Throttle Position Senor signal (0 to 5 volt). The Throttle Position Input function can be turned OFF to provide a PRM Window Switch Controlled output. The RPM function can also be turned OFF to provide a Throttle Position Switch controlled output. Or, both control functions can be used together to control the +12 volt output based on Engine RPM and Throttle Position.
The Throttle Position Input has been designed to tolerate a +12 volt input signal. The allows a Typical, Mechanical Nitrous Wide Open Throttle Switch to be used with the RPM Window Switch function.
The TPRS-001 has been designed to work with several different types of engines. There are five different PRM Input options for each of the three RPM ranges.
1--One input pulse for every two crankshaft revolutions. (Newer Sportbike)
2--One input pulse for each crankshaft revolution. (typical single and twin cylinder)
3--Two input pulses for each crankshaft revolution. (typical 4-cylinder operation)
4--Three input pulses for each crankshaft revolution. (typical 6-cylinder operation)
5--Four input pulses for each crankshaft revolution. (typical 8-cylinder operation)
The TPRS-001 provides three different RPM ranges.
Low Range - 3,000 RPM to 9,250 RPM in 250 RPM increments
Mid Range - 6,000 RPM to 12,500 RPM in 250 RPM increments
High Range - 6,000 RPM to 16,000 RPM in 500 RPM increments
$139.95
http://secure.mycart.net/catalogs/catalog.asp?prodid=3176149&showprevnext=1
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vozizm
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posted December 14, 2004 04:48 AM
got my shift light set up ... so i wont bounce off the limiter while on juice...
on schnitz forum he told me about this...
The Nitrous Express Maximizer, the controller that will revolutionize the progressive nitrous controller market. This unit uses a Palm PDA to upload and display the Maximizer information. This is the ONLY unit on the market with a built in RPM activated window switch with gear counting capability, the first with a TPS switch to activate or de-activate the nitrous system. The Maximizer also has a delay on, or delay off feature, will ramp up or down for turbo cars, and you can change the ramp parameters for each gear. Finally, the unit will piggyback on your O2's to allow the monitoring of the engine air/fuel ratios. By setting the high/low parameters the Maximizer will read, and monitor the air/fuel ratio. This allows you to disable the nitrous at any pre-set ratio.
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vozizm
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posted December 14, 2004 04:51 AM
this is the qustion i posted on the schntz forum after ryan recommended the DCS-101
"so if i understand correctly.. this thing starts a small shot of n2o and progressivly the shot gets bigger in a predetermined time...
i think i was more looking for something that lets say on 2nd gear at 6k.rpms it kicks in.. and goes off at my shift point then back on in 3rd gear at another predetermined rpm?..."
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