tccycles84
Expert Class
Posts: 124
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posted December 02, 2004 03:36 PM
dimming lights
to night i was riding home and i noticed that every time i was slowing the headlight and the dash light dimmed when i was on the brakes.
battary is new and fully charged.
it did not matter how high the rpms are.
all stock no add on or other lights.
any help?
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W.O.F.the only way to ride in Germany and now LA 189mph
  
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kawachan
Pro
Posts: 1031
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posted December 03, 2004 03:41 AM
Check the ground connection at the battery for tightness. Sounds like it is loose and causing the battery to "search" ground through your lights....
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RED NINJAS RULE!!
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slug
Pro
Out in search of my mind...
Posts: 1433
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posted December 03, 2004 03:45 AM
 Edited By: slug on 3 Dec 2004 03:47
what you will need to do is get a voltmeter on your battery terminals (well-nigh impossible from what i hear)
that being said, start bike, get it to the engine RPM where you notice the problem (at least 3000rpm for this test, it may vary depending on your service manual recommendations)
check voltage on the battery terminals, it should read somewhere around 14VDC
if it doesn't read that high, you most likely have a bad voltage regulator/rectifier, or a bad stator.
then apply the brakes. if you have a significant drop in voltage, again, vreg or stator
now, find the harness that comes from your stator, and find the connector. if possible, take a reading from each of the 3 large wires in that bundle
you will need to be on AC volts.
i'm not sure the voltage output range on your bike, but it shouldn't fall below 15-18VAC in my best guess.. (but check your service manual for exact figures)
you need to check all 3 phases....(1-2, 2-3, 1-3) if one phase is shorted or open it will provide enough power up to a point, then become overloaded and then you're sucking hind teat.
if the voltage there is stable, but lights dim, the problem is in the rectifier/regulator
if the voltage there fluctuates by a large amount (3-5 volts) then i would suspect a winding in the stator is shot, or arcing over.
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if all of these check out fine, good steady 14 +/- 1 volt do some wire tracing, somewhere you have a high resistance connection that is robbing you of power at higher current draws.
(all of this assumes that it just suddenly started doing this)
   
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aliveagain
Needs a life
Posts: 5033
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posted December 03, 2004 08:04 PM
I had a problem with the connector from the alternator melting,his could be too.
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I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger. Then it hit me.
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tccycles84
Expert Class
Posts: 124
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posted December 05, 2004 10:43 AM
good ground on battery.
check out out put all signs say volt reg or stator
i will pull the stator and check wiring good thing its is snowing here
Winter is here
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W.O.F.the only way to ride in Germany and now LA 189mph
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ZXLNT
Needs a job
Kawpuke Extraordinare
Posts: 2853
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posted December 05, 2004 12:30 PM
Edited By: ZXLNT on 6 Dec 2004 23:42
When you check the stator use an multimeter set on ohm. Check continuity between windings. There should be .3 to .5 ohms between any 2 stator windings. Also I think with the bike running voltage between any two windings should be maybe 30 volts or as high as 70 volts. I need to double check the manual...
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ZXLNT
Needs a job
Kawpuke Extraordinare
Posts: 2853
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posted December 06, 2004 11:39 PM
Checked the manual. Btwn any two white wires on the stator at 4000 rpm should be btwn 80-120 volts...
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