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BIKELAND > FORUMS > ZX12R ZONE.com > Thread: Clutch installation questions NEW TOPIC NEW POLL POST REPLY
beansbaxter


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posted October 02, 2004 10:59 AM        
Clutch installation questions

First, the story, and second...the questions.

My first stock clutch went out on me at about 10,000 miles and so I ordered a Muzzy Clutch Kit. When the dealer installed the Muzzy Clutch Kit, they said the stock one was burnt up so bad, that they convinced Kawi to replace it under warranty. I told them to install the Muzzy clutch using the warranty labor, making it a free install, and to order the stock clutch replacement and I'll hang onto it for the future.

Well last night, wormser77, myself, mixmastermike, zx9zx10, and some others from the board here, all went out to the last drag races here in Spokane. I did about 22+ passes and the clutch was toast when I was all said and done. I am still proud to say my Muzzy clutch took 18,000 miles before it went, nearly twice as long as the stock one. So now I'm off to drop in this clutch that I've had sitting in a box. I just pulled open the box, and it's all there. So onto the questions...

1-What is it that your suppose to soak? Is it the friction plates or the drive plates?

2-How long does it need to soak for?

3-Do you have to change your oil in the bike after the clutch install?

4-What out of the installed Muzzy Clutch Kit can I keep? I am assuming I can keep the springs, but specifically what about the precision drilled clutch hub?

5-Can I keep the hub bearing sleeve from the Muzzy in there?

Since I have a brand new, free stock clutch, of course I'm just going to use it. But I gotta say, the Muzzy Clutch Kit is the shiznit, the best out there, better than any stock experience I've had, and I plan on going back to the Muzzy when this second stock one goes.

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your car is slow


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posted October 02, 2004 11:14 AM        
1. The fibers are what get soaked...some take a scotchbrite pad to the steels to get off any cosmoline.

2. Opinions vary from a quick dunking..to overnight.

3. No

4. dont replace the hub with a new one if you already have the muzzy hub installed...just replace the steels and fibers.

5. dont swap out anything but the plates. Dont put the thinner fibers back in...use all full size fibers and 2.0mm steels if you can.
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beansbaxter


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posted October 02, 2004 11:23 AM        
This may sound dumb...but when you refer to "fibers" do you mean the friction plates or the drive plates?
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ZXLNT


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Kawpuke Extraordinare
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posted October 02, 2004 11:28 AM        
Fibers are the cork looking plates. NOT the steel plates...

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beansbaxter


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posted October 02, 2004 11:34 AM        Edited By: beansbaxter on 2 Oct 2004 12:35
quote:

5. dont swap out anything but the plates. Dont put the thinner fibers back in...use all full size fibers and 2.0mm steels if you can.


I'm confused by this...

Dont put the stock fibers back in to replace the old burnt Muzzy fibers? Do I put in the new stock friction plates to replace the Muzzys?

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your car is slow


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posted October 02, 2004 01:55 PM        
Well first...chances are your friction plates (aka fibers) arent ruined. Bust out a caliper and check...ive really abused my clutch and the steels warp long before the fibers go bad.

If you truly did buy a "stock replacement" set of steels and fibers...it comes with 1 or 2 "smaller" friction plates that are about 3/4 the size of the rest...do not put those back in to replace full size ones provided by the muzzy kit.
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beansbaxter


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posted October 02, 2004 03:20 PM        
Well I already have the stock fibers being soaked, but I will disregard that.

If I understand you correctly, sorry about my low IQ in these matters, all I am doing is replacing the steels out of the used Muzzy with the new steels from the new stock clutch parts.

Now I'll go rip it apart and start...eeek

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your car is slow


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posted October 02, 2004 04:23 PM        
it depends on what kinda shape your other fibers are in....if they are beyond spec...then you need to replace those too
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beansbaxter


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posted October 02, 2004 06:34 PM        
Thanks ycis for all your help. I sure appreciate it.
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beansbaxter


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posted October 02, 2004 08:07 PM        
New Question

I am making my way through just fine, figuring it all out...but I am stuck with getting the steels out of the clutch.

I dont want to have to remove the entire clutch hub basket, which I cant anyways because I dont have a 30mm deep socket, but there has to be some way to get them out.

Any suggestions?

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your car is slow


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posted October 02, 2004 09:48 PM        
eh? take the pressure plate off (6 hex screws)...remove all the fibers and plates the same way you putem in.
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deathpulse


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posted October 02, 2004 09:54 PM        
yeah - you don't have to take the hub basket off to get the plates out. The plates are on the outside of the hub basket. Just remove the 6 hex screws (and the springs behind the screws) that are on the clutch hub cover, then you can remove the clutch hub cover itself (it pulls right out) - then finally you can remove the plates. The only reason you need to remove the clutch basket is if you are upgrading to a Billet basket (GREAT upgrade BTW),.
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beansbaxter


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posted October 02, 2004 09:54 PM        
Yeah I got that figured out...I'm just stumped on how to pull the fibers and plates out...I'm struggling and they are not sliding out? Any suggestions on how to get them out of there.
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entropy


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posted October 02, 2004 11:36 PM        Edited By: entropy on 3 Oct 2004 00:38
BB,
when the steels get warped they will stick in the basket, sometimes REALLY hard to get out.

Take 2 X 1 foot long pieces of 1/16" or even 1/8" +/- thick wire (heavy duty clothes hangers work great), and put a 1/4" "L" on one end, and a loop big enough for yr fingers on the other.

grind flat points on the "L" ends

use these to reach into the basket and pull out the plates


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VincentHill


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posted October 03, 2004 06:03 AM        
Be careful of the Install Height of the clutch pack! You want it on the "High" side of the 57 MM than that the manual lists. Be careful of the "DIFFERENCE" between the steels. Muzzy uses 2.0 mm and the factory uses ?? 1.6 (1.4 Option) to make the stack height correct! If it is not correct, the puller shaft well wear out very quickly!
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fish_antlers


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posted October 03, 2004 07:07 AM        
beans... go to SpencerCycle's website... he has an excellent step by step guide on how to install the clutch.
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your car is slow


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posted October 03, 2004 08:52 AM        
can begin the process by using a pic/leatherpunch/etc or even a thin flathead screwdriver and begin to pry on the exposed edges of the first 3 or 4 plates if necessary.

I have a little hook looking tool (like that thing dentists use) to get out the inner ones.
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VincentHill


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posted October 03, 2004 08:59 AM        
I use either 2 magnets or my Stainless Dental tool
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beansbaxter


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posted October 03, 2004 08:47 PM        
Thanks for all the help everyone...I finished it up succesfully today.

The dental tool was just the trick, borrowed one from a friend and it worked perfectly, now I just gotta find out where I can get one.

Thanks again.

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beansbaxter


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posted October 03, 2004 08:47 PM        
quote:
beans... go to SpencerCycle's website... he has an excellent step by step guide on how to install the clutch.


That helped out a lot, thanks for the heads up there. Thanks to Spencer Cycles as well.

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beansbaxter


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posted October 03, 2004 08:48 PM        
quote:
Be careful of the Install Height of the clutch pack! You want it on the "High" side of the 57 MM than that the manual lists. Be careful of the "DIFFERENCE" between the steels. Muzzy uses 2.0 mm and the factory uses ?? 1.6 (1.4 Option) to make the stack height correct! If it is not correct, the puller shaft well wear out very quickly!


Oh crap...now you got me worried...

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entropy


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posted October 03, 2004 10:49 PM        
do NOT worry about stack height unless you are using some very worn fibers.

10 x 2.0mm steels and 11 fibers (Muzzy set up),

or

11 x 1.6mm steels and 12 fibers (OEM)

either arrangement works great
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VincentHill


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posted October 04, 2004 07:22 AM        
I ended up using 2 - 1.4 MM Steels to get a little extra height because of the wear of the fiber over a few runs.
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beansbaxter


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posted October 04, 2004 08:40 AM        
Ok I understand now...thanks...

That also explains why I used more stock fibers compared to the Muzzys.

Can you buy Muzzy replacement fibers and steels only?

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VincentHill


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posted October 05, 2004 03:51 PM        
The "Muzzy" steels are the 2.0 mm thick Option stock ZX12R. They did the research and came up with a better clutch. I think the Fibers are also stock!

It was their Genius to notch and drill out that inner bearing and drilling the HUB. I did it all myself and found it is "Cheaper" to buy the Muzz Man's work.
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