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BIKELAND > FORUMS > ZX12R ZONE.com > Thread: getting ready maxton "again"! NEW TOPIC NEW POLL POST REPLY
VincentHill


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Posts: 6520
posted June 28, 2004 07:48 AM        
quote:
Terry Kizer ? I'm sorry Vincent, but who is he ? Are his tubo's any cheaper than the Muzzy's ?


He is "Mr. Turbo" in Texas and made 460 HP with a ZX11. The fastest bike at Maxton (251 in a standing mile) is a very highly modified version of Mr. Turbo! His Kits are the lowest price but it takes a lot of work to make them "Streetable"!
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1bad12r


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Posts: 567
posted June 28, 2004 11:27 AM        
Oh, cool. thanks 4 tha info !
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MadMike


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FEAR THE BLACK FLAG!!!!!!!!
Posts: 6579
posted June 28, 2004 02:16 PM        
quote:

Crotch Rocket for "Normal" people you are correct! You should know by now I was never Normal! The old expression of Seed the starving people and you will feed them forever. Teach them how to feed themselves and you do it once! The way people get experience and knowledge is usually by trial and error plus the time spend doing it! I will be experienced when I get finished (Remember what my pappy always said "Experience is always something you get immediately AFTER you need it"!

Please understand that when I go fast, it was "ME" that did it, not my money that did it. I designed and built it then I am the one that went fast!


Amen!!
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TurboBlew


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BUSY DOING THE SCHIAVO
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posted June 28, 2004 03:13 PM        
Well he actually bought "Mr Turbo"... and none of the kits that have run the numbers have been "off the shelf" units.
Meaning... the initial $4500 cost PLUS incidentals and added parts might end up costing you $10,000...lol.
Oh and you might want to opt for the semi modern "Garrett" option...lol

quote:


He is "Mr. Turbo" in Texas and made 460 HP with a ZX11. The fastest bike at Maxton (251 in a standing mile) is a very highly modified version of Mr. Turbo! His Kits are the lowest price but it takes a lot of work to make them "Streetable"!

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VincentHill


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Posts: 6520
posted June 28, 2004 09:03 PM        Edited By: VincentHill on 30 Jun 2004 07:41
MM is one of those that when he goes fast, "HE" did it!

Latest on the Bike!

I do not know how you guys "Degree" the cams! But for me, I had to slice about 3/8 of an inch off of the cam Bearing bracket on the left side (To keep the Oil spray on the cam) and then slice out the middle so I could use a dial indicator. Nick figured that I should be off by 3 degrees with the base spacer of .060. well the intake lobe center was 101 (add 3 degrees and you have 104) and the Exhaust was 100 (add 3 drgrees and you have 103) the lobe centers are never perfect!

Now that I have CC'd the combustion Volume and Cylinder with 40 Wt Oil I know that I have 12.6 not 11.6 to 1 compression Ratio. (1 full point higher than I wanted) When I pulled the head off (Actually before I did I saw one bucket higher than normal) I saw where the #1' left exhaust was bent, #2 right exhaust and #3 left exhaust had all made their mark on the piston!. #4, no marks and no Intake marks. The worse valve came out easy. There is a very small nick in the cylinder (about 1/8 inch long and about 1/32 wide and maybe .010 high and the same on the head.

So I will be sending taking the head and cylinder for a very light clean up and using the .080 spacer with a "Different" Set of pistons (And maybe take John Noonan up on his offer for a full refund ?) I actually had the greatest clearance on the worse valve and with the cam setting and clearance I checked, none of the valves should have touched. Plus, The cams were very close in timing along with the fact that we never went over 5,000 during break in and the only time it was revved high was the 1 full pull on the dyno! I know that nothing is perfect but I am going to measure the distance from the top of the wrist pin hole to the top edge of the piston and then measure the depth of each pocket before i am satisfied. The Only other time I have had a "Valve" problem was at Loudon where I missed a shift 4 times in the race and hit 13,000 rpms a few times
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entropy


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posted June 29, 2004 01:55 AM        

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VincentHill


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posted June 29, 2004 04:16 AM        
I will be posting some pictures soon. I guess that I "Should" have checked each and every Valve in each and every cylinder :Rolleyes ? I now think the valve reliefs were not deep enough or "EXACTLY" the same!
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Hells Dark Lord


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living life, and loving it.
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posted June 29, 2004 07:48 AM        
bummer Vinnie, keep us posted as to the problems and your fixes....
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VincentHill


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posted June 29, 2004 09:41 AM        
quote:
bummer Vinnie, keep us posted as to the problems and your fixes....


Just to really keep me Humble, I saw some metal in the Oil and found where it came from also! The last time I had the clutch apart, I put in the spacer in Backward that is "Stepped" at the back of the clutch basket to keep it from rubbing the outter race of the bearing. So now I will be taking the cases apart for more reasons and replace the 2 main transmission bearings because I am sure the extra heat did not help the metal strength of this bearing. I would never have seen the metal in the oil except for the fact that the ND 30 Oil is so weak that it allowed the metal to wear as opposed to the Motul!
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entropy


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posted June 30, 2004 02:11 AM        
quote:
There is a very small nick in the cylinder (about 1.8 inch long and about 1/32 wide and maybe .010 high and the same on the head.



what was bouncing around? did yr valve guide break a piece off???


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VincentHill


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posted June 30, 2004 06:46 AM        
A typo, the period is right next to the slash! Makes a huge difference between 1/8 inch and 1.8 inches! That would make it more than a "Nick" to me also.
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Marcos Peguero


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Posts: 568
posted June 30, 2004 12:24 PM        
Vince, I like your attitude a lot.
Im not a mecanic in any way and I live by the same rule, I have ported heads, degree cams (nick name in DR "degree"), suspensions (old style), carbs tuning, etc. Just by seen, reading and using my comon sense. And a lot of planning, taking pitures, notes, etc. And braking sometimes...
I know I can send the bike to a mecanic and he does the job, but then you pay him for the fun, Its not the same felling.

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entropy


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posted June 30, 2004 01:32 PM        
VH,
you didn't say what scored yr cyl & dinged yr head???
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VincentHill


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posted June 30, 2004 02:05 PM        
I thought I had, but not here. The valve head when mashed to the side squeezed the metalwhich left the small dent in the cylinder and head. I will get a few Thou taken off to clean up the head and cylinder!
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Ra12r


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Posts: 919
posted July 02, 2004 09:53 AM        
Vince, had the same issue this year. Fresh build and 7 passes broke a valve and kissed all the NEW pistons. Your issue is related to your logic about cam degreeing. Your cams were degreed too tight. The base spacer does not affect your cam degree. It only changes your chain tension and frame space.

Secondly, you are doing another fresh build and if you compromise the cylinders you will be sad. The cylinder needs to be "repaired" not enlarged and ALL valves need to be checked very carefully. If you have any scrapes or dents then you probably need to be replated. If not you risk de-plating during nitrous. Then you would be real unhappy......again.
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entropy


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posted July 02, 2004 02:06 PM        
i'm with ra12r on the repairs.

On one of my "mechanical adventures" I didn't replace enough valves and ended up snapping a valve head off the stem. Next time I will replace all valves which even MIGHT have tagged a piston. To fix the block, i'd send it to millennium and have them fix the gouge and re-plate it.

I betcha VH has got all this stuff squared away anyway
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dougmeyer


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moderated
Posts: 2713
posted July 02, 2004 02:43 PM        
Ra12,
Minor point, but the spacer does alter the timing. The "front" run of the chain is of fixed length (no slack). As you move the head up, the cams must roll forward (advancing the cams). The tensioner on the back run then has to move back to accomodate the lessend slack on that side. Since the distance between the cams is unchanged the cams both advance the same amount. This is why the adjustable sprockets are mandatory in any engine with other than stock specs.
Vincent, I have some suggestions for you. Call me if you'd like to talk about them.
Doug

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Ra12r


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posted July 02, 2004 07:23 PM        
Thanks Doug,,,I sat visualizing what you said. I got it!
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VincentHill


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posted September 05, 2004 04:57 PM        Edited By: VincentHill on 5 Sep 2004 18:01
Being Poor is not as big of a problem as being Old & Tired! Since I have 2 days off and Randall got me everything I asked for, I started working on the head. Took everything apart only to see that the #1 Guide was broken off (About 1/4 inch missing) If I had not been so old and tired, I would have gotten to this point a lot earlier and had the new Guide and reamer to install it today and the head would have been finished today and the engine on Monday. I cut the other seats and and lapped in the valves to the point that even I was satisfied that I had 1 mm contact area and it was about 1/4 mm off of the edge of the valve.

Now I am going to have to bake the head at about 275 degrees and drive out the old guide and replace it with a cold new Guide ASAP This week. I know that I have complained about being Poor, but this was a case where Old and tired is at fault! Avoid Old at all cost!

DM I also have the adjustable Sprockets and flat topped CP Pistons. I will be getting in touch with you this week. Also I will be checking every valve clearance and piston clearance!
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redelk


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Please... speak to the hand.
Posts: 3212
posted September 06, 2004 07:17 AM        
Here the tool that no racer should be without. Cheap, fairly accurate and can possible warn of a problem before it becomes a disaster.

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/item.aspx?style=7986&department=646&Division=6#
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VincentHill


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posted September 12, 2004 11:08 AM        
I am feeling "SOME" better right now. I have the case together with the balancer correct and Dyno on. Then I just did the Valve Guide and re-cut the seat which I tried to screw up and failed! (I got the old guide out real well and then after fitting the clip I then took the hot head out of the oven and proceeded to install the guide from the wrong side! I quickly removed it and cooled it then installed it correctly. WHen it cooled, I reemed it out and recut the seat and lapped in the valve. Right now I just finished running the bottle brush through the cylinders and have the pistons in place so that I can correctly measure them when everything is the same temp!

I am taking a break for a while and then test assemble the engine for valve and piston clearance and degree the cams. Hopefully by about 9 PM tonight I will be entirely finished!
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frEEk


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ummm... yeah
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posted September 13, 2004 02:04 PM        
crossin my fingers for ya vince. seems to me u'v dealt your lifetime quota of bad luck in teh last few attempts, so u shoudl make this one
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VincentHill


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Posts: 6520
posted September 13, 2004 07:59 PM        
Tonight I even found the pieces that were missing on the cam and got everything put together and adjusted a few things so I can now start dialing in the cams to see where I am! Maybe I will be sick this Friday and get it in and running!
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Made History @ Daytona and still one fast old man!!

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