beansbaxter
Needs a life
Posts: 5911
|
posted May 21, 2004 10:27 PM
 Edited By: beansbaxter on 21 May 2004 23:28
Stock Oil Filter?
Hey is the stock oil filter good enough? Do they make aftermarket oil filters for the 12? And if so, are they worth getting? What does everyone recommend?
I got my oil filter wrench from RonAyers today so I'm gonna change my oil by myself for the first time (gasp!) instead of paying $60 to the stealership.
   
|
TurboBlew
Moderator
BUSY DOING THE SCHIAVO
Posts: 4590
|
posted May 21, 2004 10:31 PM
Why did you need a special wrench?
A $5 channel lock plyer works fine.
I hand tighten the filter so as not to crush the media and then install a hose clamp and safety wire it to the drain plug.
____________
Official Charter Member of the RIDERS OF KAWASAKI MEMBERSHIP REVOCATION CLUB
Also a BadAss Internet Forum Moderator 4 Hire!! Come at me brah!
|
beansbaxter
Needs a life
Posts: 5911
|
posted May 21, 2004 10:33 PM
I got the oil wrench because it was listed in the Service Manual...
|
TurboBlew
Moderator
BUSY DOING THE SCHIAVO
Posts: 4590
|
posted May 21, 2004 10:37 PM
There are lots of things listed in the service manual.... doesnt mean you actually need them...lol
____________
Official Charter Member of the RIDERS OF KAWASAKI MEMBERSHIP REVOCATION CLUB
Also a BadAss Internet Forum Moderator 4 Hire!! Come at me brah!
|
lrg
Novice Class
Posts: 61
|
posted May 22, 2004 03:18 AM
Edited By: lrg on 22 May 2004 04:19
Nothing wrong with having the tools for the job. When you put the new one back on make sure and hit the seal with a little oil, just enough to moisten. Hand tight then an 1/8 to quarter turn with your wrench.(I just hand tighten mine)
Don't overtighten the oil plug, many a newbie has stripped the pan, just snug.
Start it up before you put the fairing(s) on to check for leaks.
I always pull the key from the ignition before I start and put it in my pocket. This is so I have to think twice to start it without oil.
Change it warm but not hot.
Finally, put a little less than what it holds back in. Then start it let it sit for a bit, then fill to level.
Oh yea stock filters are great.
|
beansbaxter
Needs a life
Posts: 5911
|
posted May 22, 2004 10:39 AM
thx lrg...your the best, I dont care what other members of the board say about ya...
Oh yeah, if you could come over around 6pm, I will have Marquez and his posee waitin for you in full battle armor.
|
tccycles84
Expert Class
Posts: 124
|
posted May 22, 2004 11:23 AM
hell i have a motorcraft filter on my bike $4.45 i see no need to pay for a OEM filter at $12.00 a filter
____________
W.O.F.the only way to ride in Germany and now LA 189mph
|
TurboBlew
Moderator
BUSY DOING THE SCHIAVO
Posts: 4590
|
posted May 22, 2004 11:36 AM
tccycles.. you can order them through Ron Ayers for about $8 each.
I wouldnt trust anything other than OEM. Even the Zx9 filters work.... I forgot the part # though.
____________
Official Charter Member of the RIDERS OF KAWASAKI MEMBERSHIP REVOCATION CLUB
Also a BadAss Internet Forum Moderator 4 Hire!! Come at me brah!
|
canadamaxxer
Pro
Posts: 1090
|
posted May 22, 2004 11:38 AM
FYI: the OEM filters typically recommend 7/8 turn after theINITIAL contact of the o ring to the flange of the oil filter adapter. This is VERY tight, but will almost guarantee no leaks...as long as the gasket is lubed. A loose filter (or insufficiently tightened) can work itself loose just from the heating and cooling cycles of operation.
One thing to watch for....I'm not sure if it is even possible for our bikes, but watch for the O ring staying on the bike when the old filter is removed. It is possible in some applications to have the seal stick to the filter adapter and a person ends up double gasketing the filter and it will leak and leak badly!!!
One more thing...if a person has the correct cup wrench for the filter, an extension and a ratchet, the oil filter can be changed without removing the LH cowling. It is possible to remove the LH front (inner) cowling (sits around and below the radiator), use a piece of plastic (like a piece from a windshield washer jug) as a deflector, and remove and replace the filter without much work at all. This turns the oil change into a 10 minute affair.
|
TurboBlew
Moderator
BUSY DOING THE SCHIAVO
Posts: 4590
|
posted May 22, 2004 11:49 AM
maxxer... 7/8 of a turn....lol. It wont leak or fall off if hand tightened properly. Plus with the addition of a $.59 hose clamp and $.10 worth of safety wire... just additional insurance.
____________
Official Charter Member of the RIDERS OF KAWASAKI MEMBERSHIP REVOCATION CLUB
Also a BadAss Internet Forum Moderator 4 Hire!! Come at me brah!
|
frEEk
Administrator
ummm... yeah
Posts: 9660
|
posted May 22, 2004 12:57 PM
beans, i know there are 2 filters that work: the stock one and a more generic one, which is of course cheaper. i'v always used the generic one. i hand tighten and that's it. never been on there so tight that i couldnt get it off by hand either.
|
canadamaxxer
Pro
Posts: 1090
|
posted May 22, 2004 01:51 PM
Turbo,
If you look on the side of certain filters (the filters I bought recently have them, and Mazda filter have them), they are numbered 1 through 8, spaced evenly around the side. The instructions want a person to pick a number that corresponds with a landmark on the case after the initial gasket contact, and then turn the filter until a number, one lower than the original landmarked number lines up. That makes 7/8 of a turn. I did say it was tight, BTW.
The problem with hand tight is: how tight is that? I'm a mechanic by trade...my hands are super strong and I can hand tighten a filter without incident. My girlfriend, however, has little teeny hands (makes stuff look so huge in her hands...LOL!), and can't open the ketchup bottle 1/2 the time. If I was to tell her to hand tighten something, she and I would get drastically different results.
Most filters I deal with at work specify 1/2 (all gm cars and trucks) to 3/4 turn (Allison automatic transmissions) after initial contact. I thought 7/8 of a turn was high, but I did it anyways. When a person is given a spec, most of the time it is better to use it. I wouldn't build an engine or overhaul an automatic transmission using the "snug it up" method ...or "two taaats and a raaaat with an impact gun". I am not ridiculously anal about torque, but I have enough experience to know what is reasonable and what isn't. Repeatablity is also a big issue for torquing components. Being able to recreate the same torque by feel, over and over, is very difficult. That is why torque spec are so crucial: most of the time the actual torque isn't as critical (Torque a bolt to 100 lb/ft and then to 130 lb/ft.... sometimes it will not even cause a fastener to turn with the higher torque) as the pattern that was used to apply the torque, and the precision in the amount of torque applied.
I really like your idea about the safety wire. I will adopt that when I do my next oil change. Thanks!!
|
CrotchRocket
Moderator
Bracket Racing with Betsy
Posts: 8038
|
posted May 22, 2004 07:44 PM
I have one of those kawasaki oil filter wrench...It fits the OEM filter like a glove, much better than the $4.00 filter wrench you buy in the auto parts that always slips over the filter as you try to remove it!!!...I put it on by hand till its snug then put the wrench on the filter and tighten it 1 full turn...Seems fine to me...
I also change the oil after the bike and truck sit over night and put some oil in the filter...
____________
Jason Miller StreetBike Seminars
*****DragRacers do it better, because they dont cut Corners*****
|
phault
Novice Class
Posts: 39
|
posted May 22, 2004 09:02 PM
I use fram part# ph2017a wal-mart 4 bucks
|
lrg
Novice Class
Posts: 61
|
posted May 23, 2004 02:39 AM
Edited By: lrg on 23 May 2004 03:43
quote:
FYI: the OEM filters typically recommend 7/8 turn after theINITIAL contact of the o ring to the flange of the oil filter adapter. This is VERY tight, but will almost guarantee no leaks...as long as the gasket is lubed. A loose filter (or insufficiently tightened) can work itself loose just from the heating and cooling cycles of operation.
One thing to watch for....I'm not sure if it is even possible for our bikes, but watch for the O ring staying on the bike when the old filter is removed. It is possible in some applications to have the seal stick to the filter adapter and a person ends up double gasketing the filter and it will leak and leak badly!!!
One more thing...if a person has the correct cup wrench for the filter, an extension and a ratchet, the oil filter can be changed without removing the LH cowling. It is possible to remove the LH front (inner) cowling (sits around and below the radiator), use a piece of plastic (like a piece from a windshield washer jug) as a deflector, and remove and replace the filter without much work at all. This turns the oil change into a 10 minute affair.
Hey what ever works for you. I always hand tighted mine without a wrench and have never had a leak. Still sounds about the same. I am kinda miffed though as to how with a fairing on you watch for the instant the seal hits the flange. I think the 7/8 on the oem is not comparable to torqueing a bolt(I always torque to spec all bolts), its for people that are retarded enough to leave their filter loose or crank it so tight its impossible to get off. Just my opinion.
You can change oil with the fairing off. But I like to pull mine off for the extra 10 minutes it takes to look over my bike for leaks loose bolts ect. Also you can start your bike before you put it back on to check for leaks.
|
CrotchRocket
Moderator
Bracket Racing with Betsy
Posts: 8038
|
posted May 23, 2004 05:31 AM
Yeah, what was said above...For oil changes, the clutch side of the fairing need only to be removed...
____________
Jason Miller StreetBike Seminars
*****DragRacers do it better, because they dont cut Corners*****
|
canadamaxxer
Pro
Posts: 1090
|
posted May 23, 2004 07:58 AM
I think you guys might be missing my point on the fairings.... the piece I am refering to is pn# 55028-1384-3L. It is refered to as an inner cowling. If you loosen the front lower cowling fastener (at the front/bottom of where the 2 lower cowlings join) , and remove the 2 push in pins that retain the LH inner cowling to the upper and lowr cowlings, remove the 1 push in pin that retains it to the RH inner cowling, pop the snaps (on the front edge of the lower cowling), and out the inner cowling comes. Now you have access to the filter using a cup wrench. I use a piece of plastic sheeting (cut from a washer fluid jug) to deflect the oil off of the absorbant padding and into a flat pan. I really hate removing the whole LH lower cowling so I can spin a filter off and back on....it never seem to line up quite right without some "convincing" or "adjusting".
|
|
|
HOME
NEW TOPIC