tn1361
Novice Class
Posts: 43
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posted March 25, 2004 02:54 PM
Rod Bearings ??
Anybody know who makes better rod bearings than the OEMs ? I lost the #2 rod bearing on the dyno last week and would like to replace all of them with better ones. Was told that only ones made were OEMs. Would also like to find better crank bearings.
  
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MadMike
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posted March 25, 2004 03:40 PM
I could not find any?
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psycho1122
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posted March 26, 2004 08:20 AM
OEM's are "THE" bearings.
It's not the bearing that gave you the problem, it's your oiling system.
Evaluate your total system. If you lost #2 rod bearing, #2 main bearing has a loose tollerance! Plati-guage all of your mains and you will find the problem.
If your engine has been dissassembled.......check that the rods were installed properly. Orientation is important!
How do you maitain your oiling system? Did you ever Cavitate your oiling system?
If you have any Questions, Call Cycle Werks in Tempe AZ. 480-921-3038
We can Help you!
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MadMike
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posted March 26, 2004 10:01 AM
also, post here, most of us can help you out! as psycho did above!
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Ra12r
Zone Head
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posted March 27, 2004 06:20 AM
What did your #2 and #3 main bearings look like??
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psycho1122
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posted March 27, 2004 06:44 AM
#3 main is NOT a rod feeder bearing.
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entropy
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posted March 27, 2004 11:44 PM
quote:
...check that the rods were installed properly. Orientation is important!
psycho,
what orientation are you refering to????
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Ra12r
Zone Head
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posted March 28, 2004 05:36 AM
I understand that #3 is not a feeder, however having some of the same problems and "believing" I FIXED them, I am trying to get more info on what he found when he removed his crank.
Entropy, he is referring to the rod caps being put on 180@ backwards. But, seeing the rod bearing have no holes, sometimes that doesn't make a difference. But, there is a proper way which is to keep the bearing notches on the same side. You just have to see if it tighten's down on the crank during install.
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tn1361
Novice Class
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posted March 28, 2004 11:49 AM
 Edited By: tn1361 on 28 Mar 2004 13:59
Thanks for everyones help. I really appreciate it.
Haven't removed the crank yet. Going to remove it this week. Will post what I find. I maintain the oiling system by just changing the oil and filter every 1000 miles. Only use fully 100% synthese Motul 300V 5W40 motor oil.
Not sure what you mean by cavitate the oiling system.
The mechanic thinks that this will be a constant probelm because the motor makes too much power for the size of it's components. I don't really believe this.
Also want to knife edge the crank but the mechanic says that this would lead to excessive vibration and cause me to lose the main bearings faster. Any truth to this ?
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dougmeyer
Needs a job
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posted March 28, 2004 01:48 PM
Your mechanic is an idiot. Get a new one.
Doug
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MadMike
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posted March 28, 2004 03:24 PM
ditto what doug says! I had my 1361 crank knife edged, lightened and balanced!!! 200+ passes and running strong!!!! have it torn apart right now and everything looks great! I did switch back to Kendall GT1 20-50W oil. but to each his own there! also, just to check do your self a favor and clean the pickup screen out! You would be suprised at what you are going to find in there!!!
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BA
Pro
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posted March 28, 2004 03:51 PM
I love it when Doug gets right to the point!
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Horsepower
Parking Attendant
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posted March 28, 2004 05:23 PM
Old Kawboy; Mike here from HPU. Give me a call. Mike.
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supraman95mb
Expert Class
Posts: 212
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posted March 28, 2004 06:51 PM
Edited By: supraman95mb on 28 Mar 2004 18:52
unfortunately he says that anytime there is a problem!!!
Atleast that has been my dealings with Muzzys
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psycho1122
Pro
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posted March 28, 2004 09:09 PM
Entropy; There are #s on one side of each rod between big and small end.
They should all face towards the cam chain side of crank. This makes sure the indexing tabs of the rod bearings are loaded properly.
tn1361; cavitation means "Suck an air bubble". One brief moment without oil and a bearing will fail in an instant!
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psycho1122
Pro
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posted April 02, 2004 07:14 AM
tn1361 How's the situation so far?!
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tn1361
Novice Class
Posts: 43
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posted April 08, 2004 05:32 PM
Just split the cases of the motor. Found that all four wrist pins were going bad. Hard to tell if this is an oiling failure or the wrist pins were made too tight, not allowing enough oil to flow around them. May be an oiling failure of the pistons. Really don't know. Anyways, have to replace all four pistons and rods. Should I go with correlo (sp?) rods instead of OEMs ? What are the advantages ?
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BA
Pro
Posts: 1592
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posted April 08, 2004 07:09 PM
Interesting! A friends 12R has (I think) bent/warped pins too. I was wondering how oiling might have brought it about. I wonder what causes this!! Anyone have a guess?
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psycho1122
Pro
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posted April 08, 2004 10:57 PM
What ever happened to the #2 rod bearing failure!??
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MadMike
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posted April 09, 2004 04:41 AM
an Oiling problem! do not switch to carillos. unless you want to ruin them also. you really need to find out what your problem is before you change up. What level was your oil at? did you have a pressure gauge on it?
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kcadby
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posted April 09, 2004 09:07 AM
quote:
I love it when Doug gets right to the point!
Same here...LOL... 
Better/BIGGER than stock?!?!?!
I wouldn't let that guy SEE my bike...let alone work on it!!!
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entropy
Moderator
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posted April 10, 2004 12:24 AM
Edited By: entropy on 10 Apr 2004 01:27
quote:
Just split the cases of the motor. Found that all four wrist pins were going bad.
tn,
which pistons are (were) you using? I am having a problem with wrist pins/pistons also... 
(87mm MTC's)
MM,
BTW, I do have an oil guage (no low pressure), and I run my oil level at 3/4's. Could be that the oil "jets" which spray oil into the underside of the pistons are plugged?, we'll find out today when JCheese spits the cases.
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Johnnycheese
Pro
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posted April 10, 2004 02:45 PM
jets were clear and so were the passages and YES I do know about which way to face the rods.
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Ra12r
Zone Head
Posts: 919
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posted April 11, 2004 06:18 AM
Why are the pistons to wristpins going bad? The rotating end of the rod to wristpin should be where the movement is occuring... ?? What type of "look" or symptom is heading you in the direction of this conclusion?
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entropy
Moderator
Posts: 8671
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posted April 12, 2004 12:25 AM
W: if anyone knows why the pistons are getting fuk'd they aren't telling; but i suspect they just don't know.
The "symptom" is slotting of the piston bosses where they hold the wristpin.
The Cheeseman knows what he is doing, but has never seen this before.
The only thing left on my bike which i haven't fkk'd up are the headlight bulbs. That'll prolly be next...
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