thezx12kid
Parking Attendant
Bottle Baby
Posts: 30
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posted January 25, 2004 01:47 AM
trans jumping
i have a 2000 zx12r and the trans is jumping out of 2nd when i really dog on it, about 9000 rpm just one time and then goes right back in gear. some say shift drum,shift forks,and the gears itself so has ant one here can tell me witch one or is all of the above???
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The Kid
  
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entropy
Moderator
Posts: 8671
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posted January 25, 2004 04:58 AM
mine did exactly that: shift forks were worn where they push the gears.
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ZXLNT
Needs a job
Kawpuke Extraordinare
Posts: 2853
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posted January 25, 2004 05:20 AM
Shift forks worn and or the engagement dogs on the gears probably rounded off. I would replace the shift forks, shift drum and 2nd and 5th gear assemblys with all new parts and go from there...
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thezx12kid
Parking Attendant
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posted January 25, 2004 08:21 AM
thanks guys
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VincentHill
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posted January 25, 2004 08:47 AM
AFTER you spend real money to fix the problem you most likely caused by the way you shift gears, you might want to shift gears in a way that will just about completely eliminate that problem. Answer the following question "YES" or "NO"
To shift gears, do you let off the throttle, pull in the clutch lever, raise the gear change lever, let go of the gear change lever, let out the clutch lever, and then turn up the throttle?
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kangpow
Expert Class
Posts: 144
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posted January 25, 2004 09:09 AM
How many miles do you have on your bike ????
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silver01bullit
Expert Class
on here too much
Posts: 333
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posted January 25, 2004 11:08 AM
it's a mechanical problem, probably a bent fork, broken detent, or damaged drum.
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kawpower
Zone Head
Mr kawasaki 2 you!
Posts: 887
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posted January 25, 2004 11:39 AM
Kawasakis are known for bad shift drums, just my 2 cents.
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MadMike
Moderator
FEAR THE BLACK FLAG!!!!!!!!
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posted January 25, 2004 11:55 AM
I would start with the forks first! which is easy and you dont have to spilt your cases! and then if you are still having a problem then dive into the engine or have someone else do the change over for you! (p.s. I can do it for you if you are interested)
Mad Mike
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thezx12kid
Parking Attendant
Bottle Baby
Posts: 30
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posted January 25, 2004 09:35 PM
quote:
AFTER you spend real money to fix the problem you most likely caused by the way you shift gears, you might want to shift gears in a way that will just about completely eliminate that problem. Answer the following question "YES" or "NO"
To shift gears, do you let off the throttle, pull in the clutch lever, raise the gear change lever, let go of the gear change lever, let out the clutch lever, and then turn up the throttle?
well no shit!!! i just bought the bike with 22,000 miles on it. ihave been draging for over 4 years now and never hurt a tranny.
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The Kid
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wannabe
Pro
Posts: 1931
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posted January 25, 2004 10:05 PM
I agree with Mike. Start with the cheap and easy first. Inspect and replace the shift forks. Only split the cases if this doesn't work.
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psycho1122
Pro
Posts: 1608
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posted January 26, 2004 06:33 AM
Rounded Dogs on 2nd Gear
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ra12r
Zone Head
Posts: 919
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posted January 26, 2004 07:26 AM
It is the shift forks!!! It is also NOT about how you shift. This issue is not something that you can avoid. The forks are made of softer metal than the gears. Changing your forks will fix the problem. However, if you split the cases for any reason, then change forks and gears.
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bigcc
Parking Attendant
Posts: 17
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posted January 26, 2004 09:41 AM
I just went through this on my 2000. I agree about doing the shift forks first. You don't need to pull the engine for that, just pull the oil pan and have a look. My shift forks were not visibly bent, but I could see wear where the shift forks contacts the gear. Once I saw there damage to a gear, it had to pull the engine and split the cases. Kinda fun actually. 
Once I got the gears out, I could see the dogs were worn and rounded off. I ended up replaceing 3-4 gears, and the 3 shift forks. My shift drum measured to spec at every point, so I didn't replace that.
If you don't know already, buy the new parts at Ronayers.com. They saved me a ton of money. Plus the online microfiche makes finding the correct part a snap.
Good luck!
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bigcc
Parking Attendant
Posts: 17
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posted January 26, 2004 09:43 AM
Oh yeah, and I'd stop riding it, or at least stop giving it lots of gas. I let it go a little while, and it gets worse and worse. I'm surprised I didn't seriously damage something.
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VincentHill
Needs a life
Posts: 6520
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posted January 26, 2004 09:49 AM
Kid, you never answered the question? It is also very possible that the 1st owner shifted in a way that rounded the edges of the dogs off also. Remember, the engagement point on a new transmission is between 3/32 to 5/32. If you round off 2/32, it "Will" Jump out of gear and just get worse. The back cut on gears has never been great to begin with. Also, you never said that you bought the bike used or the mileage. Most of the people here bought the bikes new and only 1 rider broke in everything.
To the person that stated "It is NOT about how you shift! All I can say is you are totally wrong.
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phukit
Novice Class
Posts: 40
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posted January 26, 2004 11:36 AM
You're supposed to release the throttle and pull in the clutch and the same time, lift on the shift lever AND MAINTAIN PRESSURE ON IT while easing out the clutch and applying throttle, THEN let the shift lever drop back down to it's center position. My 12 was missing shifts until I started shifting like this, since then it hasn't missed a single shift. Sounds elementary but it makes a big difference.
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2002ZX12R
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k bryant
Needs a job
Sponsor
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posted January 26, 2004 12:51 PM
Just crack the throttle a hair and click her in there. Though I've seen this/these opinions expressed previously here, I've never had a problem doing it up or down when "blipping" the throttle. Kinda the same principal as the electric shifters on roadracers. They kill the ignition for a nano-second and up she goes. Not suggesting it all the time, but it works on the track just fine.
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VincentHill
Needs a life
Posts: 6520
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posted January 26, 2004 01:21 PM
quote:
Just crack the throttle a hair and click her in there. Though I've seen this/these opinions expressed previously here, I've never had a problem doing it up or down when "blipping" the throttle. Kinda the same principal as the electric shifters on roadracers. They kill the ignition for a nano-second and up she goes. Not suggesting it all the time, but it works on the track just fine.
I shift this way at Maxton and after listening and watching a tape of myself and Randall (He was using the clutch lever), I could not believe that his shifts sounder not only smoother, but "Quicker"
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Made History @ Daytona and still one fast old man!!
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k bryant
Needs a job
Sponsor
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posted January 26, 2004 03:00 PM
Whatever works for you is whatz best!
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redelk
Moderator
Please... speak to the hand.
Posts: 3212
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posted January 26, 2004 03:14 PM
Had the same problem with my '97 7R's fifth gear. Turned out to be the shift fork. Was covered under the extended warranty. BTW, I never use the clutch on upshifts. Not on the 7R and not on the 12R. My 12R has 48K and still no problems.
BTW, it was at 63K when the fork gave out on the 7R.
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thezx12kid
Parking Attendant
Bottle Baby
Posts: 30
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posted January 26, 2004 05:40 PM
Thanks alot guys.
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The Kid
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entropy
Moderator
Posts: 8671
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posted January 27, 2004 06:23 AM
In my experience ZX12 shift forks don't bend, the engagement pads wear, preventing solid shifts.
After 400 button shift passes my bike started jumping out/in 2nd: my forks were VERY worn, the engagement dogs were NOT rounded, the gears only slightly worn, the drum fine. BUT as long as it was torn down i replaced 3 forks, drum, 2-6 gearset.
My take: us button shift guys should be careful to set up the air/elect shift stroke so it doesn't push too far. I think this prematurely wears the forks. Just a thought. On the Dale Walker, make sure that the solenoid piston actually hits the back of the solenoid, limiting the travel.
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MadMike
Moderator
FEAR THE BLACK FLAG!!!!!!!!
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posted January 27, 2004 09:19 AM
Mine is also set to bottom out. and not bottom the gear out. or actually top the gear lever in my case.
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ra12r
Zone Head
Posts: 919
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posted January 27, 2004 10:20 AM
quote:
To the person that stated "It is NOT about how you shift! All I can say is you are totally wrong.
Really?!?! Then take a test....Turn on your bench grinder and stick your NOSE to it. Do this several times!!! Now look at your nose,,,,hmmmm Okay, now go back to the grinder and change the way you put your nose to it!!! Do this several times,,,,,,,Go look at your nose again...hmmmm Do you see that it changed the way your skin was ground off or better yet didn't grind off any skin?!?! Probably not cause grinders "grind" with contact. DUHHHH!!!!! Same way metal on metal grinds "do matter how" you touch metal on metal. Think next time!
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