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BIKELAND > FORUMS > ZX-14.com > Thread: Brock's clutch mod good for street and some LSR? NEW TOPIC NEW POLL POST REPLY
new14rider


Novice Class
Posts: 64
posted June 02, 2012 08:39 AM        
Brock's clutch mod good for street and some LSR?

I bought the Brock's clutch mod for my 2012 zx14r and still contemplating whether or not to install it.
I am building a land speed bike for Bonneville and will not be drag racing. Just 1/4 mile runs for wideband commander tuning. I want to ride on the street as well and will be installing a Dynojet quickshifter. I weigh 208 and trying to get to 195 before I race (I know rider weight plays a part in the clutch). Should I keep the slipper clutch in or go for intalling the clutch mod with the supplied spacers?

Also, the service manual specifies torquing the clutch nut to 100 ft lbs. Brock's video shows the nut tightened with an impact wrench. Most impact wrenches max torque specs are around 300 ft lbs. I don't want to over torque. I'm not sure if it is that critical once you remove the slipper springs.

What do you guys think? Do you notice a difference good or bad when street riding with this mod???

Thanks.

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smokinZX14


Needs a life
Posts: 10197
posted June 02, 2012 09:17 AM        
I would get the clutch mod , if for no other reason the springs and shim kit will help you run higher speeds in LSR and also make you clutches last longer .. I see no need for the slipper clutch on any kind of high speed racing that does have any turns .. If you do some twisty riding just kit the shim kit ..I would agree that the slipper is a great thing for the street and could save your ass but LSR and drag racing it's more of a problem than a help ..
____________
Smokin Performance Cycles..
Tampa Bay , FL .. Brocks Performance Dealer ..
Gen 2 ZX14R Best ET 8.43 , Best MPH 164.95

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Wheelie


Needs a life
Old Man
Posts: 6902
posted June 02, 2012 01:04 PM        
quote:
I bought the Brock's clutch mod for my 2012 zx14r and still contemplating whether or not to install it.
I am building a land speed bike for Bonneville and will not be drag racing. Just 1/4 mile runs for wideband commander tuning. I want to ride on the street as well and will be installing a Dynojet quickshifter. I weigh 208 and trying to get to 195 before I race (I know rider weight plays a part in the clutch). Should I keep the slipper clutch in or go for intalling the clutch mod with the supplied spacers?

Also, the service manual specifies torquing the clutch nut to 100 ft lbs. Brock's video shows the nut tightened with an impact wrench. Most impact wrenches max torque specs are around 300 ft lbs. I don't want to over torque. I'm not sure if it is that critical once you remove the slipper springs.

What do you guys think? Do you notice a difference good or bad when street riding with this mod???

Thanks.
+1 on what Smokin said, did Brock hammer on the impact or just bump it a little when tightening the nut? Install the complete clutch mod and you will be pleased, I picked up 2+ mph in the 1/8th mile after the complete install, clutch is still so streetable like it should be, not over stiff or grabby.

wee

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fury


Expert Class
Posts: 426
posted July 01, 2012 08:05 PM        
quote:
quote:
I bought the Brock's clutch mod for my 2012 zx14r and still contemplating whether or not to install it.
I am building a land speed bike for Bonneville and will not be drag racing. Just 1/4 mile runs for wideband commander tuning. I want to ride on the street as well and will be installing a Dynojet quickshifter. I weigh 208 and trying to get to 195 before I race (I know rider weight plays a part in the clutch). Should I keep the slipper clutch in or go for intalling the clutch mod with the supplied spacers?

Also, the service manual specifies torquing the clutch nut to 100 ft lbs. Brock's video shows the nut tightened with an impact wrench. Most impact wrenches max torque specs are around 300 ft lbs. I don't want to over torque. I'm not sure if it is that critical once you remove the slipper springs.

What do you guys think? Do you notice a difference good or bad when street riding with this mod???

Thanks.
+1 on what Smokin said, did Brock hammer on the impact or just bump it a little when tightening the nut? Install the complete clutch mod and you will be pleased, I picked up 2+ mph in the 1/8th mile after the complete install, clutch is still so streetable like it should be, not over stiff or grabby.

wee


I just added his kit for the zx14 - spring kit and shims. Very street able. My clutch was starting to slip. I did new steels and fibers and added the Brock kit. I already have a lock up clutch...
I pull clean to 300kmh according to GPS.
No slippage in any gear...

Nice and damp for this mornings ride... Roads dry. Just cold and wet...
Stock clutch seems to take a lot more abuse and still gives me the best bang for my dollar.

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cliffrandall


Zone Head
Posts: 738
posted May 20, 2014 06:04 PM        
Put Brock's springs and shims into my 2013HT Project - after about a month my clutch became grabby on disengagement. Remove the thick shims, kept the springs - cleared up the problem but disappointed that I had to change it......Spoke to one of Brock's guys last fall, couldn't help me, anybody else experience this?
Cliff
cliff@randallsearch.com

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Shane661


Needs a life
Posts: 11491
posted May 21, 2014 05:08 AM        Edited By: Shane661 on 21 May 2014 12:12
The Brock's kit is excellent. I have it on my 212 mph 14R, and it has performed excellently. Installation was a breeze, as well. If you watch the vid, you will see that the hub is being held by hand when he uses the impact lightly; the hub will spin before torque becomes excessive.

Shane

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cliffrandall


Zone Head
Posts: 738
posted May 21, 2014 05:24 AM        
Shane did you install the max shim stack from Brock's kit? Maybe it's my 2013 set-up?
Cliff

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Shane661


Needs a life
Posts: 11491
posted May 21, 2014 02:07 PM        
quote:
Shane did you install the max shim stack from Brock's kit? Maybe it's my 2013 set-up?
Cliff


I have the basic setup. I didn't want tremendous lever pull. My NA application was 224 STD on Brock's dyno, which is pretty strong for a stock motor setup without a power adder. The basic setup should support plenty of power, more than most have, anyway.

Shane

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cliffrandall


Zone Head
Posts: 738
posted May 22, 2014 07:43 AM        
I think, but I'm not sure, that my Brock's clutch springs (with the thickest shims) were binding the springs causing the grabby feel on release. Either that or the added pressure of Brock's set-up simply exceeded the strength of my stock hydraulic system's ability to release smoothly. Really not sure, but I'd like to know so I can fix it and shim mine up again - I love a tight clutch......Note of interest, I did not remove my stock 'slipper clutch' torque limiter system, I simply added Brock's spring and shims, I need the clutch to release when I downshift from 6th to second!! Not sure if that had any effect on my problem......All thoughts from those with a Brock's set-up are welcomed.
Thanks,
Cliff

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Brock


Sponsor
Posts: 537
posted June 03, 2014 01:27 PM        
Cliff,

I'm trying to ingest your statement above (downshift from 6th to 2nd?)

You can't have both. If you increase the spring pressure of your 'slipper clutch' - you have effectively removed the part where it 'slips', so it will become comparatively grabby if you try to launch the bike from a dead stop.

If you tried to use our springs, without our mod, especially with the thickest shims... every time you pulled your downshift routine, you smashed them solidly into coil bind (a complete no-no as described in the instructions) - rendering their pressure inconsistent from one spring to another (as they are stress-relieved and pressure is set,via specific height, here at Brock's - before shipment). They are no longer to spec. and need to be replaced, but they carry a lifetime warranty, so you can send them in for more at no charge (you handle shipping) - just call my staff for details. 937-912-0054.

I would suggest you go back to the OEM set-up, as it was designed for your riding style.

Brock
Brock’s Performance




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cliffrandall


Zone Head
Posts: 738
posted June 03, 2014 06:29 PM        Edited By: cliffrandall on 4 Jun 2014 02:33
Thanks Brock very kind of you to jump in, as always I appreciate the courtesy. I'll act accordingly and pull them out, send them down and put the stock springs back in for now and shim them.....BTW - with my gearing (38/17) 6th to second gear at 120klms is a fun kick from 4000rpm to 8000rpm, then you're gone.
Cheers,
Cliff

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cliffrandall


Zone Head
Posts: 738
posted June 04, 2014 05:01 AM        Edited By: cliffrandall on 4 Jun 2014 12:51
Trying Brock's clutch spring 'shim kit only' on the stock springs. I'll report back on my findings after tonight's ride.
Cliff
[URL=http://s1077.photobucket.com/user/cliffrandall/media/ClutchBrocksshimsonstocksprings_zpsb78bd294.jpg.html][/URL]

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cliffrandall


Zone Head
Posts: 738
posted June 04, 2014 04:03 PM        
Better but not perfect, at higher rpm in top gears I still feel a slightly 'rough' dis-engagement. Back to stock spring pressure until Brock's new springs arrive, then I'll remove the slipper clutch system completely and install his kit the way it was designed......I don't like a loose feeling clutch, I guess that's the trade off with the slipper.
Cliff

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Viper


Expert Class
Posts: 283
posted June 10, 2014 04:55 AM        
quote:
Better but not perfect, at higher rpm in top gears I still feel a slightly 'rough' dis-engagement. Back to stock spring pressure until Brock's new springs arrive, then I'll remove the slipper clutch system completely and install his kit the way it was designed......I don't like a loose feeling clutch, I guess that's the trade off with the slipper.
Cliff


You can use his springs and spacer and still keep the slipper clutch. That has nothing to do with the engagement of the clutch. It just makes the back wheel lock up when you gear it down quickly.
____________
2012 ZX14R SE

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cliffrandall


Zone Head
Posts: 738
posted June 10, 2014 10:59 AM        
My clutch dis-engagement was much better without Brock's shim kit, when I used the stock springs. I still don't like the 'loose feeling' on disengagement with the stock set-up. I'm pulling the clutch apart and putting Brock's complete (slipperless) system in. I'll report back on my findings. Christ I hate taking this bodywork on and off everyday!!!!!
Cliff

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cliffrandall


Zone Head
Posts: 738
posted June 11, 2014 08:58 AM        Edited By: cliffrandall on 11 Jun 2014 15:59
Sorry correction....My clutch is rough on final ENGAGEMENT (feels like the springs are still binding)not dis-engagement. Looking forward to getting Brock's full kit installed, hopefully that will fix this problem, if not, I'll have to dig deeper....Anybody else experience this?
Cliff

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cliffrandall


Zone Head
Posts: 738
posted June 14, 2014 06:22 AM        Edited By: cliffrandall on 14 Jun 2014 17:16
Put Brock's complete 'non-slipper' cutch kit in (I did not combine it with the stock slipper parts, all were removed) my 14 clutch now works perfectly. No more rough engagement on final release of the clutch in any gear. I really like the 'tighter' launch feeling I now have, direct to the rear wheel. IMO no one who rides on the street needs a slipper cutch in a ZX14R - as earlier mentioned - if anyone did, I did - I often downshift from 6th to second gear on the highway if I want to move. That's 3800 rpm to 8000 rpm instantly with 38/17 gearing, which BTW is fabulous for a sport touring 14......With Brock's kit I can still downshift accordingly and my rear wheel does not hop or lock up......That said, the overall performance of my 14 is noticeably better with Brock's fully shimmed clutch set-up, mine was slipping both ways!!! The HT now performs natural power wheelies where it did not with the stock clutch slipper clutch parts in place - and it certainly feels more powerful. The added hydraulic lever pressure is not noticeable after 5 minutes. I recommend this product - just put it in properly!!!
Cliff
Thanks for the help Brock.

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Brock


Sponsor
Posts: 537
posted June 16, 2014 02:21 PM        
quote:
Put Brock's complete 'non-slipper' cutch kit in (I did not combine it with the stock slipper parts, all were removed) my 14 clutch now works perfectly. No more rough engagement on final release of the clutch in any gear. I really like the 'tighter' launch feeling I now have, direct to the rear wheel. IMO no one who rides on the street needs a slipper cutch in a ZX14R - as earlier mentioned - if anyone did, I did - I often downshift from 6th to second gear on the highway if I want to move. That's 3800 rpm to 8000 rpm instantly with 38/17 gearing, which BTW is fabulous for a sport touring 14......With Brock's kit I can still downshift accordingly and my rear wheel does not hop or lock up......That said, the overall performance of my 14 is noticeably better with Brock's fully shimmed clutch set-up, mine was slipping both ways!!! The HT now performs natural power wheelies where it did not with the stock clutch slipper clutch parts in place - and it certainly feels more powerful. The added hydraulic lever pressure is not noticeable after 5 minutes. I recommend this product - just put it in properly!!!
Cliff
Thanks for the help Brock.


Glad you like our set-up Cliff.

We recognized that the 14R slipper-clutch was was designed more by the legal department, than the engineering department, from our first ride... We confirmed our findings on our first launch and placed and exclamation point on our testing with Racheal's 212 MPH land speed blast.

Brock
Brock’s Performance


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Shane661


Needs a life
Posts: 11491
posted June 16, 2014 03:52 PM        
quote:
Put Brock's complete 'non-slipper' cutch kit in (I did not combine it with the stock slipper parts, all were removed) my 14 clutch now works perfectly. No more rough engagement on final release of the clutch in any gear. I really like the 'tighter' launch feeling I now have, direct to the rear wheel. IMO no one who rides on the street needs a slipper cutch in a ZX14R - as earlier mentioned - if anyone did, I did - I often downshift from 6th to second gear on the highway if I want to move. That's 3800 rpm to 8000 rpm instantly with 38/17 gearing, which BTW is fabulous for a sport touring 14......With Brock's kit I can still downshift accordingly and my rear wheel does not hop or lock up......That said, the overall performance of my 14 is noticeably better with Brock's fully shimmed clutch set-up, mine was slipping both ways!!! The HT now performs natural power wheelies where it did not with the stock clutch slipper clutch parts in place - and it certainly feels more powerful. The added hydraulic lever pressure is not noticeable after 5 minutes. I recommend this product - just put it in properly!!!
Cliff
Thanks for the help Brock.


I told you so, Cliff! Just kidding! But really, I just straight followed the installation instructions, and the kit has been flawless....as you are experiencing.

I am putting the same kit in Racheal's new 14R as well. It is a big improvement over stock, in feel, and controllability. I can really appreciate the difference when I ride mine (with the kit) and hers (without) back-to-back.

Shane

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cliffrandall


Zone Head
Posts: 738
posted June 16, 2014 07:15 PM        
Yah my fault, sorry about that - I thought I could use Brock's full shim kit 'WITH' the stock slipper - no you can't and you don't want too. Agreed, this is a great mod on the big 14, just like it was on the 12.
Cliff

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