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BIKELAND > FORUMS > ZX-14.com > Thread: Car oil for break-in? NEW TOPIC NEW POLL POST REPLY
ZXedOUT


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Posts: 38
posted May 22, 2012 11:07 PM        Edited By: ZXedOUT on 23 May 2012 06:09
Car oil for break-in?

Hello ZX14 and oil aficionados,

I have a question not to start a debate but just for some general knowledge and understanding. Why use car dino oil during break-in? Is there something specific about car oil that makes it better suited for break-in? Brock recommends Quaker state car stuff and says its "very important" on his break in secrets article. I have seen here Wee and others mention castrol gtx for flushing. Why not motorcycle specific dino or does it not matter which one I use. I intend to do hard break in using Brock and Motoman's methods when I get my zx14r next month. Doing my homework already

Thanks in advance!
zx OUT



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Seno


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posted May 23, 2012 04:16 AM        
I used Motorman's break in on last 2 ZX14's I bought new and never had a problem. No idea about the oil and why or what is better, although it does have to do with the additives & formulation.
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CraZX14


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Posts: 399
posted May 23, 2012 06:54 AM        
Certain additives or "friction modifiers" found in some car oil are supposedly unfriendly to our clutches. But many of us have discovered that much of the less expensive and easier to find car stuff is fine. I'm one of the Castrol gtx users.....done it many times with no issues. It is currently the oil in my 14R with 800+ miles on it.
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Bently


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2012 14r In Blue and no Mods!
Posts: 5428
posted May 23, 2012 07:10 AM        
Secret break in tips? Anyway thought a bunch of guys on here said the 14r came with break in oil. but when i drained mine last night it sure didn't look like the oil pictures posted in the other thread. it looked like nice clean oil at 498 miles and one race on it! Now i have mobil1
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ZXedOUT


Novice Class
Posts: 38
posted May 23, 2012 08:48 AM        
quote:
Secret break in tips? Anyway thought a bunch of guys on here said the 14r came with break in oil. but when i drained mine last night it sure didn't look like the oil pictures posted in the other thread. it looked like nice clean oil at 498 miles and one race on it! Now i have mobil1


Hehehe had it the other way around...its actually the motoman that calls it 'secret' as the header on his site.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
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ZXedOUT


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Posts: 38
posted May 23, 2012 09:00 AM        
Thanks Seno and Crazx14! I think I will go with the Castrol gtx then for break in at 20, 100, 250 then go motorcycle dino at first dealer service followed by synthetic at next change. Hope that makes sense.
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Bently


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Posts: 5428
posted May 23, 2012 09:12 AM        
quote:
Thanks Seno and Crazx14! I think I will go with the Castrol gtx then for break in at 20, 100, 250 then go motorcycle dino at first dealer service followed by synthetic at next change. Hope that makes sense.

to me it don't make sense , no need to change it that many times

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ZXedOUT


Novice Class
Posts: 38
posted May 23, 2012 09:20 AM        
quote:
quote:
Thanks Seno and Crazx14! I think I will go with the Castrol gtx then for break in at 20, 100, 250 then go motorcycle dino at first dealer service followed by synthetic at next change. Hope that makes sense.

to me it don't make sense , no need to change it that many times


I hear ya...i'll keep it simple then. Thanks!
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ZXedOUT


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posted May 23, 2012 09:23 AM        
Yay for 20 posts....love the zx14 bikeland forum by the way in two weeks I'm off to cycle world....yay!
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Shane661


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posted May 23, 2012 09:42 AM        Edited By: Shane661 on 23 May 2012 16:47
Brock's article is from quite a few years ago. I think the biggest thing I took away from that article was to run the bike under load right away.

Based on his current suggestions, I rode my bike like I stole it and put in <<0 Wt Alisyn oil and Petron Plus additive at 105 miles. My bike make very good power.

Shane

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zx12mark


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posted May 23, 2012 09:59 AM        
If you plan on keeping your bike for 50,000 miles go by the book.i`ve always done it and it has never failed .Seating the rings and tempering the metals thru heat cycles is what we are after for longevity.I change the dino and filter at 500 miles then at 1000 the oil again.At 2000 i switch to mobil 1 car 20/50 with filter and the same every 2000 miles for the rest of it`s life.I put 57,000 on my 91 zx11 and i have 56,000 on my 2000 12r.The 12r still runs 9.6`s with bolt ons.The head has never been off and i never have ever had to add oil. i buy a bike to keep it 10 years.

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ZXedOUT


Novice Class
Posts: 38
posted May 23, 2012 11:16 AM        
quote:
Brock's article is from quite a few years ago. I think the biggest thing I took away from that article was to run the bike under load right away.

Based on his current suggestions, I rode my bike like I stole it and put in <<0 Wt Alisyn oil and Petron Plus additive at 105 miles. My bike make very good power.

Shane


Thanks Shane, I do know about your bike's power.
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sands


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posted May 25, 2012 04:11 PM        Edited By: sands on 25 May 2012 23:14
Regular car oil as long as it's 10W40 and higher should not have any friction modifiers...But if you want to use a conventional motorcycle oil it's fine to..Anyway, there's really no such thing as "break in oil "...It's just the factory fill oil they put in from the factory and it's only "break in oil" because its what happens to be in the bike when you first run it.

As far as break in is concerned when seating rings high rpm is not necessary, but gas pressure is (heavy throttle)...So if you're concerned and want to go by the book and keep the rpms at a certain level all you do is after the bike is fully warmed up is open the throttle wide open in 2nd, 3rd, 4th, or whatever gear and let off before the rpms climb too high...Brief heavy throttle followed by engine braking will do it...You want to be accelerating and decelerating, no steady droning for the first 20 to 50 miles or so...You can completely follow the manufacturers break in recommendations and do a "hard break in"...This is where motoman errs is that he leaves a lot of folks thinking they need to be practically bouncing off the rev limiter as soon as possible..He needs to explain it a bit better.
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ZXedOUT


Novice Class
Posts: 38
posted May 25, 2012 09:10 PM        
quote:
Regular car oil as long as it's 10W40 and higher should not have any friction modifiers...But if you want to use a conventional motorcycle oil it's fine to..Anyway, there's really no such thing as "break in oil "...It's just the factory fill oil they put in from the factory and it's only "break in oil" because its what happens to be in the bike when you first run it.

As far as break in is concerned when seating rings high rpm is not necessary, but gas pressure is (heavy throttle)...So if you're concerned and want to go by the book and keep the rpms at a certain level all you do is after the bike is fully warmed up is open the throttle wide open in 2nd, 3rd, 4th, or whatever gear and let off before the rpms climb too high...Brief heavy throttle followed by engine braking will do it...You want to be accelerating and decelerating, no steady droning for the first 20 to 50 miles or so...You can completely follow the manufacturers break in recommendations and do a "hard break in"...This is where motoman errs is that he leaves a lot of folks thinking they need to be practically bouncing off the rev limiter as soon as possible..He needs to explain it a bit better.


Thanks Sands! Makes a lot of sense and somewhat brings a balance to all opinions and advice. God willing the zx14r will be in the stable in about 3 weeks. Gotta scout some quiet local roads near home for break in. Still trying to decide between green and black:/ I ask all the chicks and they like the green but the black looks meanest to me....hmmm decisions decisions. Well....

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