Rook
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posted July 20, 2011 07:25 PM
 Edited By: Rook on 21 Jul 2011 03:26
valve shim clearance
You know that dark grey 17 mm bolt head at the center of the timing wheel? I turned it. Just a little. and then I turned it back but IDK if I turned it back exactly as much as I turned it forward.
I thought the bolt head was to turn the crank shaft so that I could set Cyl 1 &4 at TDC. I am afraid that bolt head may have been to change the timing. Do youknow if I changed my timing? NOt much good usung the timing wheel to find TDC if I changed the timing. Even just a little bit.
Seems to me I heard a ratchet like clicking when I turned. Sounded more like an adjusting noise of the cam chain than the whole engine turning.
help-
  
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1badzx12r
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posted July 20, 2011 07:32 PM
NO YOU didn't change the timing .. but never turn your engine backwards ..
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S06nIz4scvI
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Rook
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posted July 20, 2011 08:56 PM
Edited By: Rook on 21 Jul 2011 05:21
Thanks, 1 bad.
I see the arrow there. pointing clockwise. I DID turn it counterclockwise but only a few degrees--. I don't think the motor turned at all though. That is why I was concerned. WTF did I do if I didn't turn the motor. I did see the cam chain move a bit.
Just out of curiosity, what happens if you turn your motor backwards?
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NINJA12
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posted July 21, 2011 07:21 AM
the chain tentioner is designed to take up the slack created on the loose side, when the engine is turned the correct direction.
When you turn your engine backwards it creates more pressure against the tentioner and can push it in allowing the engine timing to change and cause PTV contact.
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Rook
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posted July 21, 2011 02:39 PM
Edited By: Rook on 21 Jul 2011 22:43
So what do I do now? I don't think I turned it back too much. I don't know what I did. There must be some way to tell if the timing is off. Or some way to safely procede with this.
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1badzx12r
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posted July 21, 2011 02:53 PM
Edited By: 1badzx12r on 21 Jul 2011 22:57
quote:
WTF did I do if I didn't turn the motor. I did see the cam chain move a bit.
you most likely was backing the bolt out ..
when you reverse direction theres alway some slack in the cam chain ..
if your having to replace shims you'll need to pull the cams and reset timing anyway..
or you can just check your timing marks on the cams and head and have your crank mark on TDC
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Rook
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posted July 21, 2011 03:34 PM
Thank you very much 1bad --------------U DA MAN!!
I get way too wound up over this zchit. I hardly moved the bolt. Then I barely moved it backward. I might not know much what I am doing but I have good sensitivity to tools and such.. I did not get the sense that the motor turned at all. I felt the motor turn as I was turning the back wheel by hand. The motor came to a loose spot at TDC -- no compression resisting my turn on the rear wheel. If there was going to be slack in the motor turning it would have been right where the motor was at TDC, a little before and aft.
Used to be I would start a thread and get a bunch of replies within a couple hours usually. What happened to all you guys? If you're out there, please keep a watch for this thread to come back up. I am pretty sure I will have more questions.
thanks again 1bad and NINJA12
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Rook
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posted July 24, 2011 04:30 PM
The valve shim clearance and possible adjustment is way too much work to do and then reassemble only to find I f'ed up from the word GO. Started the bike up tonight. She ran fine. Up on stands, I revved to 6 K in Neutral. The motor did not blow up so I am confident that the timing is not screwed. I'm ready to move ahead on this.
See I need to take out T bodies, gas tank, head cover, maybe cam shaft.
I will bump this thread now and again. Very much appreciate help with questions I will have.
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1badzx12r
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posted July 24, 2011 07:56 PM
you don't have to remove throttle bodies to check or adjust valves ..get the PDF service manual on sticky here and look it over before you start this job
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S06nIz4scvI
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Rook
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posted July 24, 2011 08:52 PM
I have never been able to get JDC's SM download to work.. I have a SM pdf and the valve check instructions say to remove T bodies. I know that doesn't mean it must be done that way.
ENGINE TOP END 5-13
Cylinder Head Cover Removal
• Remove: Middle Fairings (see Middle Fairing Removal in the Frame chapter) Throttle Body Assy (see Throttle Body Assy Removal in the Fuel System (DFI) chapter)
• Air Switching Valve (see Air Switching Valve Removal) •Free the heat insulation rubber plate.
Remove: Stick Coils (see Stick Coil (Ignition Coil together with Spark Plug Cap) Removal in the Electrical System chap- ter) Air Suction Valve Covers (see Air Suction Valve Re- moval)
•Remove the cylinder head cover bolts [A]. •Remove the cylinder head cover to backward floating it a
little up.
Could be the only reason they tell you to remove T-bodies is to remove the rubber heat shield blanket. I'm sure a lot of guys just cut it off.
Will the head cover come off without removing the T-bodies?
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1badzx12r
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posted July 25, 2011 10:21 AM
Edited By: 1badzx12r on 25 Jul 2011 18:24
does CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL mean anything.. they talking about removing the head..on the heat sheild i can't tell you cause... i cut and threw the rubber junk in the trash the 1st time i go into it ..
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S06nIz4scvI
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Rook
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posted July 25, 2011 01:19 PM
YA, It is tempting but I am not quite to the stage where i can destroy anything OEM. Take it off and save on the shelf, NO PROB but I still have this feeling I may be converting back to stock for resale one day.
I saved the name of a BL member here who told me he had extra heat shield blankets. But---this is about education as much as it is about gittin 'er done..so I think I will like to pull the T-bodies off....and =might as well remove the heat shield intact.
The head looks fairly easy . pull stick coils and remove 4 bolts hold down the cap on the motor. Switch valve is gone --block off plates installed earlier this year.
Even I know what a cylinder head is.
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1badzx12r
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posted July 25, 2011 02:13 PM
well if this a learning experiment then drop the motor and put it on a work bench ..its a hell of alot easier to work around
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S06nIz4scvI
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Rook
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posted July 26, 2011 06:22 PM
those *&^%$%^%^ subharness connectors. I don't sup[pose anyone has heard of a way to make them come apart easier? I was prying for 1.5 hours tonight to get one apart. With the PC on there, i have a second one to separate.
Should I try a heat gun?
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zeexman
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posted July 26, 2011 09:14 PM
I didn't read all the post but you turn that bolt to line up the marks with your case lines.
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1badzx12r
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posted July 27, 2011 02:59 AM
quote:
those *&^%$%^%^ subharness connectors.?
how about a pic of what your talking about..
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S06nIz4scvI
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Rook
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posted July 27, 2011 08:52 AM
I believe you referred to as main wiring harness. I have the second one to unplug which yousee peeking around the bottom. I guess it is not a mustto unplug the one you see out in front in the pic but at least it will be out of the way when I pull the second one. I was thinking applying hot air might help to loosen it up. Maybe I will just try a hair dryer. Heat gun may be too much.
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Rook
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posted July 27, 2011 08:55 AM
..second thought----red hot heating element + gasoline fumes = BOOM! I guess I will just have to bust off what is left of my fingers.
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BIGZXDADDY
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posted July 27, 2011 10:04 AM
quote:
those *&^%$%^%^ subharness connectors. I don't sup[pose anyone has heard of a way to make them come apart easier? I was prying for 1.5 hours tonight to get one apart. With the PC on there, i have a second one to separate.
Should I try a heat gun?
try pushing the connector together pretty hard then push the release tab and pull. i don't think a heat gun will help
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"never drive faster than you can see, besides it's all in the reflexes"
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1badzx12r
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posted July 27, 2011 10:14 AM
Edited By: 1badzx12r on 27 Jul 2011 18:16
if you think disconnecting those is tough wait til you get to the 2nd 1 and find that in order to remove the throttle bodies you have to unhook the plug from the motor ..the tab is on the back and has to be released from the rear brake pedal side .. and getting to the fuel line connector at the throttle bodies will be a chore also .. those main plugs come apart easier if you spray some WD-40 on them .. make sure you get the right screw driver for the screws on the throttle cable holder and apply alot of pressure when removing them
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S06nIz4scvI
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Rook
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posted July 27, 2011 11:15 AM
Edited By: Rook on 27 Jul 2011 19:17
try pushing the connector together pretty hard then push the release tab and pull. i don't think a heat gun will help
Yeah, I got them apart just pulling. No heat , no WD. I use the hook end of a bottle opener so I can press the tab while I pull on it at the same time. It really looks to me like these plugs were design ed to be removed by using a special tool --something like a chisel jaws pliers that would bite down on the top and bottom behind the little ridges and then you could pull.
wait til you get to the 2nd 1 and find that in order to remove the throttle bodies you have to unhook the plug from the motor
mmmm-hm. That is why I came back to the computer.
..the tab is on the back and has to be released from the rear brake pedal side
..conveniently located behind a bunch of other crap so it can't be seen and you can't get your hands in there to feel it. Yes, I might just end up tearing that rubber mat out of there.
Thanks for helpful tips.
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Rook
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posted July 27, 2011 12:49 PM
Edited By: Rook on 27 Jul 2011 21:00
GOT IT. By the times on my posts here.......that took me.........over 3 hours. The only times I find myself extremely frustrated during wrenching is the times I have to screw with electrical connectors. PAIN IN AS.
The key is to look for the back of the plug using a small flashlight under the rubber mat. You will see the silver tip of the bracket inside of the thin sleeve in the brown plastic of the connector. get a long screwdriver under the rubber mat and insert the blade between the silver metal end of the bracket and the brown plastic tab right above it. DStand over bike with chest on gas tank. Reach into left side of engine while prying up on tab with screwdriver where it was inserted in right side of engine compartment. Push hard against the connector so that it slides to right off of silver metal bracket.
That was like doing yoga or something. I would show pics but obviously there was no way to get my cam in there. I could hardly see it with my eye.
------------------------------------------------------------------
The rest of this doesn't look too bad. Remove sensor lead, loosen duct clamps, remove tank and bulkhead doors (I've done several times), ducts and gromets over t bodies looks easy enough, a few other small parts---The fuel line which you (1bad) say is also a chore, I suppose I will find out. The cable ends--ya that looks like that might be a little tricky. Press hard so as to not strip screw slots.
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1badzx12r
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posted July 27, 2011 01:58 PM
quote:
The key is to look for the back of the plug using a small flashlight under the rubber mat. You will see the silver tip of the bracket inside of the thin sleeve in the brown plastic of the connector. get a long screwdriver under the rubber mat and insert the blade between the silver metal end of the bracket and the brown plastic tab right above it. DStand over bike with chest on gas tank. Reach into left side of engine while prying up on tab with screwdriver where it was inserted in right side of engine compartment. Push hard against the connector so that it slides to right off of silver metal bracket.
.
yes thats how its done .. its easier to take the fuel line off at the pump under the tank ...just remember how its routed
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S06nIz4scvI
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Rook
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posted July 27, 2011 02:40 PM
ahh- Thanks, 1bad. Have removed fuel line from pump many times. Will be doing that to take off gas tank anyway. No sense in taking it off of Tbodies --just pull it through and note how it was routed for reinstallation.
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Slowninja
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posted July 27, 2011 07:22 PM
Damn rook, you've taken on a challenge.
But i'm +1 on pulling the whole motor and working on the bench. It would be easier that way.
____________
06 zx14
SWB
9.24 @ 148
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