posted November 05, 2008 03:26 PM
Retarded Timing? I've read that the standard timing setting is a bit retarded on stock bikes, and I've read that some of you are advancing the timing.
Here is an example:
FastestBusaAround
08 ZX14 Metallic Sapphire Blue -- Brock Gen 3, PC3 & 16/43's, flies out, 4 degree ignition advance, 6" over Trac swingarm , Ohlins front and rear suspension.
I asked this question:
Hey Fastest Busa how did you advance your timing 4 degrees?
Is it mechanical or electrical, and is it linear or variable throughout the RPM range?
Steve (with a hot R1, and hotter girl friend) suggested this:
SteveWFL
that timing advance question would make another great thread if you'd post it in a new one
So here it is!
How many of you are advancing your timing, and how are you doing it?
Did you notice a difference; be it track times, dyno, or just ride ability.
Do you need different timing for different gears or just RPMs?
I saw that "HealTech" makes a Timing Retard Eliminator, and "Dynojet" makes an ignition module for the PCIII/USB. Anyone have any of these? Was it worth the money?
Before everything went electronic, distributors on cars had little weights on the shaft that would advance the timing as the RPMs went up. You could change the weights to make the timing advance faster or slower.
____________
2014 ZX14 Black and Green
2008 ZX14 Black and Red SE
1986 ZX1000R Black
"Faster, faster! Faster would be better!" (Serenity)
posted November 05, 2008 05:33 PM
Here is what I have experienced:
I spray on LSR events so I was looking for a way to retard the timing a bit.
After installing valve springs and degreeing the cams, on motor found out
at the dragstrip it liked 4-5 degrees advance, picked up alot of pull.
When we went to the dyno to tune for the spray, tried to pull -4 out from stock and it would barely run.
Found that it will survive just fine @ stk timing with a 60 shot for a mile.
I did this all with a Muzzy adj. rotor
Hope that gives you some insight.
____________ Texas Mile 200.256mph - Oct. 2007 (Update 202.577mph Oct 2008) NOS assisted ECTA Ohio Mile 195.132mph TexasMile 2012 199.9 mph all motor!
Streetriders Shootout 2008 series Pro/ET Champ!
Streetriders Shootout 2007 Series Pro/ET Runner-up!
posted November 05, 2008 06:36 PM
Did you say that you're spraying the entire mile? Holy bejeezus
____________
Best 60ft: 1.42
Best 1/8th: 5.97
Best 1/8th MPH: 119
posted November 05, 2008 07:32 PM
At least 3/4 of it from 9000 up in 3rd gear, I ran out of time to try 2nd gear,
had to add a little more time to the box so the frontend would stay down ____________ Texas Mile 200.256mph - Oct. 2007 (Update 202.577mph Oct 2008) NOS assisted ECTA Ohio Mile 195.132mph TexasMile 2012 199.9 mph all motor!
Streetriders Shootout 2008 series Pro/ET Champ!
Streetriders Shootout 2007 Series Pro/ET Runner-up!
posted November 07, 2008 02:49 AM
WindSwordNinja,
I have a TRE related question which is similar.
Whether it be Healtech or Ivans, will adding a TRE to a bike that has the flys already removed show any tangible power gains? Up until now I have been led to believe the only real advantage for a no flys, full exhausted, PC'd bike was decel pop elimination. It seems that if the retarded timing was eliminated in lower gears it would make some more, what say ye oh wise ones?
____________
2007 Bad to the Bone ZX-14 flies out, full Muzzy exhaust system, PC III, BMC race
Expert Class
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Posts: 309
posted November 07, 2008 05:01 AM
Define TRE = This Reeks Entertainment
PUUUUUUUULLLLLLL UP pee chair is dishit gonna go down is class clown dis thread is oh, IVAN?
Wanna cum is in ear and shit awhile? Bring some chips is I have the other malt lick her an shit.
PRO Seed......
U sea my wire any chance is? It's missing and you want a thread is wait for Ivan is we gonna tear up some tizz-you out of that box is not you, but me is laughing it up ass we, OK......Ass >Eye Speak it up the solder up.... Azz U wear out saying one more thread is read? (warms up hands is still guessing which hand stayed cold is a, "half/truth" hanging out like the balls it takes to get on one is get behind Ivan and really pull some cable up dare)
____________
way too much light in the place is shoot the lights out and make it really dark inn year ear is F YO and the bike you clanked in on.
posted November 07, 2008 05:50 AM
TRE's are actually NOT 'timing retard eliminators' on the zx14. What they actually do is quite simple (and vailable for a few bucks from any electronics store- use the search feature on this site): They hook into the feed from your gearbox that tells the ECU what gear its in, and make it think its always in 6h gear by sending that ohms signal only no matter what gear you're actually in. SInce the flies (ecu controlled secondary throttle plates) open different for different gears, you get the most aggressive openings the stock ecu is capable of in the lower gears. Problem is, you run lean using a TRE. Not sure why, but you do--- dangerously lean according to those who have dyno'd using them.
If you pull your secondary throttle plates (leaving the shaft and all hooked up so the ecu thinks they are still there), you have to use an aftermarket fuel enhancement box to adjust the ECU's fuel signals to maintain the proper A/F ratio. By far the most popular box is the Dynojet Power Commander III USB (USB means any device -even a PDA- can be hooked up to it and used to download new maps or adjust existing maps).
SO, if you pull the secondary throttle plates there is absolutely NO reason to use a TRE. It will do absolutely nothing to help and using a TRE makes your gear indicator always show 6th gear. Ivan's does make a so-called TRE for flies out applications that is used to reduce the decel pops by making the bike think its in Neutral all the time. This works because the governments only emissions check AT idle, so they added fuel on the decel when winging the throttle in neutral. However, I've heard from multiple sources (including Muzzy's) that you lose a couple HP when using that decel pop eliminating TRE.
The two TRE's Ivan's sells are the TRE-06 and TRE-08 I believe, forgot which is which. You want the decell eliminating one send me a few stamps and I'll give you mine. Bought it (used) THEN found out about it robbing 1-2hp. Not a big deal for most 14 owners, but I'm a heavy SOB and want every one of those HP to even things up! PM me if you want to give it a try.
Oh yeah: Both Muzzy's and Brock's have figured out how to map most of the decell pop out, rendering the TRE pointless. If you dont have a Brocks or Muzzy's exhaust (or using a custom map) then it might just be for you.
____________
'06 zx14
Muzzy M10/M14
PCIII w/ Muzzy map
Flies out K&N in!
bits n pieces...
posted November 07, 2008 06:01 AM
Almost forgot: Adjustable timing advance. SInce the name Muzzy always came up when talking about adjustable timing advance plates, I got there's. Simple as can be to install, and makes a VERY noticeable improvement in throttle response. Muzzy told me it won't make a noticeable difference in peak HP, but it will add power below peak along with crisper throttle responce.
Both Muzzy and most racers on here agree you want 2-4 degrees advance over stock. Some guys claim that in 6th gear you get a bit better mph in the 1/4 with a a few degrees RETARDED though. The ideal would apparently be an adjustable advancer that starts with +4 degrees in first and retards it's way to -2 in 6th I guess. That is way out of the realm of the basic timing advance plate Muzzy sells though... and would cost ALOT more than $79!
____________
'06 zx14
Muzzy M10/M14
PCIII w/ Muzzy map
Flies out K&N in!
bits n pieces...
posted November 07, 2008 08:29 AM
Hey Sticks,
Thanks very much for the write up, and information.
How many degrees do you advance yours?
Do you keep it the same for everyday street riding or use it only when racing around?
____________
2014 ZX14 Black and Green
2008 ZX14 Black and Red SE
1986 ZX1000R Black
"Faster, faster! Faster would be better!" (Serenity)
posted November 07, 2008 08:51 AM
I went with Muzzy's personal recommendation (not Rob Muzzy, he was on vacation. His brother). He said to run 2-3 degrees with a stock engine. There adjustable advance can do rediculus amounts of advance/retard, 3 degrees is like 1 1/2 ticks on a plate that allows probably 20 ticks of advance, and 6 of retart (aprx., my memory aint that exact).
____________
'06 zx14
Muzzy M10/M14
PCIII w/ Muzzy map
Flies out K&N in!
bits n pieces...
posted November 07, 2008 09:08 AM
Wow thanks for the education SnS,
My bike has the following mods: Secondary Butterflys removed
BMC Race air filter
Dynojet PC III USB
Muzzy 4 into 1 and M10 meg
From your response the only thing worth possibly buying for my bike is the timing advance module. Right now I'm running a generic Dynojet map which vaguely covers my mods and it runs strong. I also have a Muzzy map just haven't felt the need to try it yet. I would like to get mine tuned by Brocks Performance but at $375. a session it'll have to wait for a while. Once again thanks for the advice.
____________
2007 Bad to the Bone ZX-14 flies out, full Muzzy exhaust system, PC III, BMC race
posted November 07, 2008 09:58 AM
As I was warned, and found out the hard way anyways, "DON'T FORGET TO CALIBRATE YOUR THROTTLE TO THE PC!". I did, but the bike wasnt warm and the cable lengths changed with the heat I guess. Ran rough and popped bad thru the muffler. I rode it till it was at max heat, then let it idle for a few minutes till the fan came on (had the bike in the house, wife wasn't happy lol). THEN I redid the calibration. It was off. After that, runs tons smoother and "most" of the decell pop is gone.
I use the Muzzy map, after all its there exhaust! I got the M10/M14 setup that is all the rage nowadays. Seems to work, as my dyno results show: (I'm Tracy)
____________
'06 zx14
Muzzy M10/M14
PCIII w/ Muzzy map
Flies out K&N in!
bits n pieces...
quote:TRE's are actually NOT 'timing retard eliminators' on the zx14. What they actually do is quite simple (and vailable for a few bucks from any electronics store- use the search feature on this site): They hook into the feed from your gearbox that tells the ECU what gear its in, and make it think its always in 6h gear by sending that ohms signal only no matter what gear you're actually in. SInce the flies (ecu controlled secondary throttle plates) open different for different gears, you get the most aggressive openings the stock ecu is capable of in the lower gears. Problem is, you run lean using a TRE. Not sure why, but you do--- dangerously lean according to those who have dyno'd using them.
If you pull your secondary throttle plates (leaving the shaft and all hooked up so the ecu thinks they are still there), you have to use an aftermarket fuel enhancement box to adjust the ECU's fuel signals to maintain the proper A/F ratio. By far the most popular box is the Dynojet Power Commander III USB (USB means any device -even a PDA- can be hooked up to it and used to download new maps or adjust existing maps).
SO, if you pull the secondary throttle plates there is absolutely NO reason to use a TRE. It will do absolutely nothing to help and using a TRE makes your gear indicator always show 6th gear. Ivan's does make a so-called TRE for flies out applications that is used to reduce the decel pops by making the bike think its in Neutral all the time. This works because the governments only emissions check AT idle, so they added fuel on the decel when winging the throttle in neutral. However, I've heard from multiple sources (including Muzzy's) that you lose a couple HP when using that decel pop eliminating TRE.
The two TRE's Ivan's sells are the TRE-06 and TRE-08 I believe, forgot which is which. You want the decell eliminating one send me a few stamps and I'll give you mine. Bought it (used) THEN found out about it robbing 1-2hp. Not a big deal for most 14 owners, but I'm a heavy SOB and want every one of those HP to even things up! PM me if you want to give it a try.
Oh yeah: Both Muzzy's and Brock's have figured out how to map most of the decell pop out, rendering the TRE pointless. If you dont have a Brocks or Muzzy's exhaust (or using a custom map) then it might just be for you.
Sticks_n_Stones I have IVANS TRE RETARD ELIMINATOR for flys out..............
The indicator shows Neutral....
posted November 07, 2008 10:03 PM
thats the Ivans that I have, too. Anyone wants it they can have it free, just send me a self addressed envelope with a few stamps on it. The flies in Ivans shows 6th gear all the time. Heard from more than a few (Muzzy included) that the flies out Ivans for some reason loses 1-2 hp on the top. A good map will do the same thing that an Ivans does BTW.
____________
'06 zx14
Muzzy M10/M14
PCIII w/ Muzzy map
Flies out K&N in!
bits n pieces...
Expert Class
Professional Cockis Slap Peer
Posts: 309
posted November 08, 2008 03:02 AM
Ride hardare, are some whack abstract you recite is note for not a really kind of Cycle World way the chain stretches in the ECU got it all sorta frenchkissed all wet out the mouf; like I smacked some editor over there is that was like what is that going on dare? I wanna pull down my zipper, pull it out, slap it on his desk and whatever flies out the end?; is now pick kit up and read it like instructions now. I needed to straighten out his abstract like 1/2TwoBASSgo is ????. Hot is hot instructions now!
Now it reads like a lead story. I like being an editor is that was easy. Read the words is they have to blend in over the other stuck page is that is how a chain wahhha ahhhhhhh's the what the ^%? I never knew that!
Fishy, watch me feel lay Ivan. So, WOW, that sounds like a shorter window is 1° or 2° and it comes back out of the same [loadis me box I'll check that flank stake° and shorten your timing stroke ear° take that!] I could live with that is wish I was over Ivan's shoulder; see what the crapiss he's doing with 4° if you already know you hit the, [block box ears]. That small of a window sounds like yeah, I can see how you are way into the safety box call it. Say the cam chain whip is can you program that swing as from a cut box in the spark unit to the ECU? I can. And if you can make a tiny degree is half a degree, how much cut time are you deep-timing the cut box inside the ECU(resets the milli retard I believe so the advance is short changed). Sea all the abstract is it walks sorta got you covered like show me the GPS is you hit the brick wall is the same you aim for the crankiss my ass is you get a whiff of, call it as I see it. It is remember, your generic fuel injection since 1999 for argument sake is not the 14, but any bike you walk up to is the same as the 14 is the generic. If we sat down and I put you to sleep is rather speak than type the complex, you edit the shit out is it walks in steps and your abstract or the practical you are trying to walk, racer is just like reading me is it gives me a headache the generic blows your walk like you sort hubbish the rubbish is no, you have no fluid clue, I doubt MMI could cover this stuff.
The thing is, you need this for tuning if anything else you need that abstract crap that is in the FSM. But you have to read that very short abstract to connect the dots.
You trying to repair or tune the bike is you are not fundamentally there. You are close, don't get me wrong. But the walk is way off sort of. So, you are stuck with a, 1/2 truth I keep reminding someone, and no it is not Ivan. It is you know who is again, not my problem you read that high/low chain in one rag, go to another rag, read that and there she blows is a 1/2truth and you are lost in the tuning the practical. Lost as how a chain high-spots. if only I could film Paul Dean and walk that chain and then sneak up on him with the EC U wanna see, "DUH!" And he is like why read the rag at all is I sure was feeling sorry for your ass is read that chain fallacy. Speaking about 1/2abstracts....
DAy fuck, Ivan? They took your 4° and lost HP is you still claim 4-SkinDearGreaseis? Lube up that dickcycle, Ivan.... You need to bend over is show that dyno chart. So, back it off a few degrees, Ivan!!!! Ivan... NO-no-no.... Isle Of Man Jellis Eye see isle 3 is wear out is donny and that broom is sit on it right dare, Ivan, don't move...... i'm going bass boat over to the other pLACE IS you, you, 4° short of a bussize is bust year balls is how many years now, Ivan?
OK, someone pissass the malt lick her.... Fish is coming wit the Catch of the Day.... I'm a got dis one is....Who is buying the beer zzzzis? Aahwwwwwww, look at Ivan wag his tail is that broom looks hungry.... Wag the go over see if donny needs some help on isle....... Sea ya late tear.
____________
way too much light in the place is shoot the lights out and make it really dark inn year ear is F YO and the bike you clanked in on.
posted November 08, 2008 06:26 AM
Damn I'm actually started to understand him again. And I think I even agree with him haha.
Question Pissear: Does the ecu use different fueling/spark maps for each gear to account for the Ram Air effect and loads at speed? I assume it does especially since its an open loop system, which would obviously mean using the TRE gives you the 6th gear spark and fuel curves designed for the ramair and aero drag loads (ie slower accel compared to the first couple gears). I'm pretty clueless when it comes to bike ECU's...
____________
'06 zx14
Muzzy M10/M14
PCIII w/ Muzzy map
Flies out K&N in!
bits n pieces...
Expert Class
Professional Cockis Slap Peer
Posts: 309
posted November 08, 2008 12:24 PM
Sticks... Think about just revving the bike normal. Where is the ram? Where is the fuel trim in gears? Gottcha! Think about that whole fuel system has nothing to do with gearing. You pull the clutch in no matter the gear is rev the piss out of it is did it need that gear you were in at 186 mph? Nope.
That ECU and the crank are buddies like Ivan comes alone and he is the cam sensor is one shot deal and the bike dies is dead. So, like, fuel-spark-compression, you have the same 3 basics is: ECU-Crank Sensor-Cam Sensor is you eliminate one is she no starts... Sans that one key stroke on the fob is that the ECU will memorize the one key off- last good known signal and start one time with a bad cam sensor. That memory last one time. Now you turn the key off and what signal can it retain is the cam sensor has no wire attached in connector/short to ground/unplugged. < 3 more variables is you now have 9 fundamentals to memorize forever on the side of the road.
WOT are they?
So, right there, you know on the side of the road you have a bad ECU? No, the crank and ECU started the bike one time is now I stalled it. Try to start it is you now know, the ECU is good. You know the crank sensor is good. You just diagnosed your cam sensor is out is because the bike rode one last time on the key cycle is the cam has to know what cylinder it last fired off of, so the starter knows the bike was never turned off is how the bike starts up again is the memory of the 'last' good known fire-off.
I have to scramble all that tech at you so you go, "Oh, he is making sense is you are understanding my read of the FSM. The abstract is so short a read (manual wise) that you have to know some fundamentals going in and they are so easy once you know your 123's is only one of the 3 (or 6 or more variables are bottom line basic ones drilled in your head first) is how you work the telemetry, (after you know the fundamentals it gets easier). The bike lives in a constant. So you rev the engine, there is that fuel machine is sorry, I am up to the point where you have that wire on the spark stick is now a coil for each plug. That alone is no spike/bleed to ground is instant to the plug (at least the tech is removing 8mm coil wires) as you can see. the tech see the bleed of the old distributor wires, so the sparks or easy to spike to ground, not the spark is called, "cross-fire" bleeding into ground. This is why those F1 guys get shocked by the car is all that coil about to store that energy in the car looking for a shorter ground than the tires it sits on.
So, can I set a timing light on the advancer, toggle the GPS and watch that map swing to default is did it retard or did it run in the math backup needing no 02 sensor. This being you know that other sensor in the tail under the seat? That is you open loop 02 sensor. If you set that to an 02 in the exhaust, you switch to, "Closed Loop." The tail sensor is no longer used being we are an open loop bike? Not really. That sensor is a copy of the 02 so say both run open/closed if you can imagine the two different throttle positions being one is locked on one volt number = Open Loop. The other (loop system) fluctuates like a wave and the analog more or less chases more trim with more voltage. Grabs more read time as in many quick/smooth fuel plottings. In digital, it might be the same fuel trim is just faster moving in the digital feel of it. See, I just can't nail it for sure. I can feel the difference, but to say yes, it advances or no it does not, I cannot. You again, have to remember that once you are past a certain RPM, you are full advanced like normal old cars with points and weights to advance the curve. That sorta stays a constant so the retard is I question that being you can rev the crap out of the bike is no change in a hack mode. Not that I can tell on the cable pull. Sounds normal throttle rip to me in either code or analog.
You think more diagnostic is save the tuning for later? You know the fundamentals first is more what I chase in your face. Then you begin to agree with me is now you read the manual works one way is how can it work any other way is you have to know what sensor you are chasing once that bike does come in the shop and I want you off my rack as much as you want that bike back in the garage all running right. Because it is 20/20 hindsight, I still have the fundi's is I still can't die aggray nose for shit is it aggravating!
Say, the water temp sensor goes out. There are now maybe 2 maps running is one is the morning cut that raised the main throttle plates open a little by the actuator via the sub arm at the cable bell crank. The coded water temp is another map is backup/fail-safe no matter what you call it, (most bikes act like the 14 = Multi brands shit out the same codes....Ivan? Someone needs a price chek on isle 4 is, I gotta tell ya; we are shopping for more soap and suds is like we need a lot of shit to clean up the shit over at the other place. Fuk King huge one is still sitting there is i had to drag Ivan with me for more arms to carry crap. Stewpit pit crew is I need a pit crew is I'm having Ivan is a problem solver over there is we have plenty of shit to hit the fan..... We need more fans is one is I brought the fan is how many blades am I holding UP? 5 is isle five more hubbish rubbish alcoholic bottles at... Ivan! Did chew get that price check yet at the 99cents store, ya fuking idiot!).
Wear was I........The math plot to the fuel cuts are now calculated in the whatever they use is I am now knocking on the door of Delphi/Magneti-Marelli/Mikuni to ask what fuel trim/advance just happened? yeah right!
You hack the GPS and you can feel more fuel being it hammers the cylinder different is what I feel. Maybe it is a digital change as opposed to an analog feel? How much advance/lean-rich has changed is beats me. I have no clue but guess at the rest. I need a sniffer and watch the static advance move. I have to find out on my/your own. I trust no one is think Ivan. Because it will quantify that HP loss on the Hack? Sorry, I'm after torque.
You have that whatever Duc Soup De Sure has some spank in the box is if you see 180HP on the grill, you have like 80 so and so pounds torque? YO! Am I watching your numbers and you pull (for argument sake) 165/170HP and 103/105 Torque is do I want to be on HP or T York my neck off is you select the bike and numbers is you are welcome to your HP numbers. I ignore HP. Kind of get it? .
Your advance at 4° is lost to that cut box in the spark unit, reverts back through the ECU and there you go is safe codes that no code is needed spiking? I do not have one to see a spike under saved codes in memory. If I were to manually (not electrically is the way to go) but say that is more in-line being (Muzzy's bro) set the physical a bit less timed into that cut box. You are physically attacking the advance and not electrically like cutting the fuel trim like with a PC. Again, you speak as if you feel that same digital save (backup so the bike runs safe anyway it says it right in the book is have you picked one of the 3 (more/same/less) question? No one is taking a stab yet> Like it is going to blind-side you is I am in tears the fastest production is going to go wire on the throttle because the tech is there. I like it.... (I love those engineers is the competition being I'll pick the Italians brain if you wanna pick some wisdom at the ECU = Mag-Mar).
So, the tone wheel off the crank is a small window if not blocks you like it knows that degree is off (out of bounds X to Y = Crank to Cam tone wheel positions). And if they move? If they are not in-line is cut the advance until it is within spec. Sorta, you rolled up to less cut time. I would bet the same feel on the advancer is the same feel on the GPS hack. You sorta reach that digital map rather than the plotted sensor(s) and their fuel plots in the digital and all that safe mode advance/retard???
Knock-Knock- I need steps is why they compete as do you catch the ECU makers competing in breakthroughs? Delphi has that hidden, (begins the good stuff Mar/Mag ain't gonna say is hey! YOU- YOU!!!!). The little (they will not tell us are): Parts that plot the fuel to stay in the crisp of trim/the wheel from making the sudden spin. The 14 runs a carbon-dated ECU.
Can you sort of follow how complex it is, but it sort of walks a shit load of steps to get there is why the repeat of the fundamentals, the way the ECU hammers the maps, the air flow speeds is all that crap tied in. It is too complex but yet, so easy to follow.... I mean, to diagnose what when wrong generically on your bike is today, any (modern) bike you own if an ECU is attached that is. Meaning we are speaking 14/Busa/600cc call the brand/size cc... We are sitting on an Every-Bike. This works on most of the computer bikes is that the: ECU Out-Crank Out-Cam Out = Lights out she is a boat anchor.
If you thought removing the subs were gonna speed things up... Guess a wire will slow things down. You mess with the throttle position sensor? Good Luck! You might code the throttle but I need to read the code page is the design will point it all out is more hacking we will go..... A hacking we will go...... So, Ivan? What was the price of this bottle of assiswipes with a free poise pad is get some more.... I'm going to got ask the cash ear what the price is for ya, Ivan, ear at the 99CntearEarStore. Man, I think Ivan is rub bing off on me. zI need a price check on this candy my bar.
Solvawangear Pea Soupee anyone?
____________
way too much light in the place is shoot the lights out and make it really dark inn year ear is F YO and the bike you clanked in on.
posted November 08, 2008 01:48 PM
I see I'm going to have to look a bit deeper, didn't occur to me that the ecu would compare the crank to cam sensor data, and if it did I would assume it would trip a code instead of correcting it. Must be a byproduct of that slap happy cam chain tensioner, the ecu goes "damn nephews acting up again better fix him till he tightens back up".
I've made my own custom proms for cars from scratch (twice), and done numerous dyno tune sessions (easy) and 1 full "city and freeway" tuning session that lasted 20+ hours total. Damn hard to get the best A/F ALL the time at ANY load/throttle position... Or I should say, good thing I had friends that knew enough to show me how. Anyways, I'm familiar with the dynamics of modern cars engine electronics systems and therefore most of what and how a bike operates. Just annoyed that I cant get inside that damn stock ECU and snoob around like I can with cars ECUs/
____________
'06 zx14
Muzzy M10/M14
PCIII w/ Muzzy map
Flies out K&N in!
bits n pieces...
Expert Class
Professional Cockis Slap Peer
Posts: 309
posted November 09, 2008 03:53 AM
Well Sticks, that box in the spark box was already standard in cars. It works on the same principal. Meaning, it is how the whole system HAS to operate to survive. They figured out wear and degrees so as not to det or over heat the timing say. That is why the drop in HP being you ping into that cut box window. The ECU is a constant ping state. The telemetry comes in/goes out/comes in when a breach has occurred.
Say that crank comes around 360 degrees is 364 degrees. See how deep that signal reads is 4° deep. I kind of made it go off the scale so as to read it how it would trigger 4° advanced. Make sense you find that dyno read that stock setting gets her done kind of any way out of that range is slight to nil.
____________
way too much light in the place is shoot the lights out and make it really dark inn year ear is F YO and the bike you clanked in on.
posted November 09, 2008 05:27 AM
i think i learned something............don't mess with mother ecu!
____________
2006 Black ZX-14,6 inches over,16/42, flies out,BMC Street Filter,Brock's Street Meg,Brock's Radial Mount Strap,PClll with Race map,Dynojet LCD w/Techmount, ZX-14 fender eliminator,Pilot Power2CTs,Speedohealer,Pazzo Levers,Cox Radiator Guard, Garmin Nuvi 265WT
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posted November 05, 2008 03:26 PM
posted November 05, 2008 05:33 PM
