raptor14
Expert Class
Posts: 264
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posted July 15, 2006 03:15 PM
Installed Brocks Gen 3 StreetSmart & PC Today
I did my installation and test ride of Brock's Generation 3 StreetSmart Exhaust and PC with Brock's base map today. Got the carbon can. Was it worth it. You betcha. I took detailed step-by-step photos of the installation as well as video sound bites of the stock and Gen 3 exhaust. Plan to publish detailed installation instructions on ZX14.com if I have the time to organize all the pics and add the text. Will also be providing a .pdf file to Brock as my instructions start with removal of the fairings and go through the entire process, including the PC. My 14 is red and with the Brock/Hindle system it looks just like gtracing's. You can find his pics at http://www.bikeland.org/board/viewthread.php?FID=27&TID=24553. By the way gtracing, those pics, along with Brock's customer service and some positive reports on the Gen 3 system were why I went with Brock. Those pics got me interested so thanks. OK, here's a summary of my experience.
RECOMMENDED: YES! Let me say that again. YES!!!!!!!!!
FIT & FINISH: First class. Every piece and part fit well and the quality was great.
INSTALLATION: Piece of cake. Taking the stock system off is more difficult than installing the StreetSmart. No need to drop the radiator. The whole process took me 4 hours, and that included taking step-by-step pictures (took time to set the tripod and then frame each pic), having lunch, talking to a friend who stopped by on his bike, hunting for a screw that bounced on the concrete garage floor and then played hide and seek, and installing the PC. As I said above, every part and piece fit well. Basically it was (1) pull the fairings, (2) pull the stock muffler, (3) pull the stock headers, (4) install Gen 3 header flanges, (5) install Gen 3 headers mated to 2-into-1 collector (6) install mid-pipe, (7) put on springs, (8) install canister (muffler) and springs, (9) install PC using Dynojet ZX-14 instructions obtained from their web site (bought PC from Brock and it had the proper map pre-loaded), (10) reinstall fairings, (11) make sure no hot exhaust parts touch plastic (I had no problem), (12) get on leathers, gloves, helmet, boots, (13) start her up, (14) experience some new found power and throttle response (YES).
SOUND: Probably louder than I would have preferred but it is not obnoxious. It is significantly better than the stock exhaust. It now sounds like a motorcycle. It will not annoy my neighbors. And it is not so loud that it will add to my fatigue on a 500 mile ride. Overall, I like it.
PERFORMANCE: First I'll apologize to the purists out there. The nearest dyno is a long way away and riding down for a baseline with the stock system and then heading down again to check out the StreetSmart and tweak the PC for my bike (if required) was just too much trouble. So, I have no dyno baseline and the performance report is based upon the subjective seat-of-the-pants. I will tell you that it is typically very difficult to convince me by seat-of-the-pants that anything done to a bike was a real improvement verses something in your imagination. I'm an engineer and I believe in data. Seat-of-the-pants has to be really really strong for me to accept it as valid. With that said, my calibrated butt-cheeks say the Gen 3+PC+Brock's map made a major difference. First the throttle response is smoother and quicker. Second, there is a very noticeable benefit to low end power. I, like many, have been irritated by the neutered low end. I'm now quite happy. More could be gained by either a TRE or pulling the flies. But the bike now reponds like I want it to and I'll probably leave it alone. I like riding the twisty backroads in CT. I don't drag race. I now longer have to downshift near as much as I used to. The bike will pull strong from a much lower rpm. I am very satisfied with the performance benefit that this system has delivered. And that's is an understatement.
COMPLAINTS: Only one and for most of you it won't apply. I'm not a racer. I may put some long backroad miles on the bike, including overnight trips. I like easy chain maintainence and adjustment. The solution for me was to get a centerstand. The mid-pipe does not have a welded on stop for the centerstand and therefore, to keep it from rubbing on the chain, I had to remove it. This is the first aftermarket exhaust system I've owned that lacked compatibility with a centerstand (when a centerstand was standard or optional). I'm gonna have to find a welder to fix it so I can reinstall the centerstand. Please note that the performance improvement I got with this system more than compensates for having to remove the centerstand, so while I'm complaining, this would not have stopped me from installing Brock's Gen 3 system if I had known what I now know. I recommend it,
  
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raptor14
Expert Class
Posts: 264
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posted July 15, 2006 03:34 PM
One more comment. It seems to have helped the engine heat issue. My 14 always ran one bar above center whenever traffic was 50 mph or less. Greater than 50 and it dropped down to center. I did 10 miles in 40 mph traffic today and it stayed at center. Had 2 miles in 20 mph traffic (frustrating) and it ran 1 bar above center. Most of the ride was 60+ on the backroads and it stayed at the center mark.
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lucky14
Pro
Posts: 1439
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posted July 15, 2006 05:51 PM
Great writeup!
Thanks for sharing!
Maybe this gets me one more step to making up my mind.
Many years ago, no doubt - I would have gone with a 4 into 1.
Now, I like the looks of the duals and might go that way for sound and looks, knowing that there will not be much more power.
I am also leaning toward the centerstand, and I made a point when I called Muzzys to ask if the bracket(s) for the centerstand stop(s) are there on the bolt-ons and the reply was "yes."
Brock has been awesome with his sharing of information, so I would hate to go any other way, but I don't believe that he offers any options except the Gen 3 and the Meg.
Decisions, decisions......................... 
____________
You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape.
If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40.
If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
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cls
Expert Class
Posts: 410
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posted July 15, 2006 05:58 PM
I got the Brocks Gen. 3 Ti, PC, TRE, and Brock's map for the set-up. I couldn't recommend it more highly. Good stuff. In addition to raptor's comments, you get a much lighter, more nimble bike. I'm lovin' it!
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serius blk
Zone Head
Posts: 543
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posted July 15, 2006 06:21 PM
when did you guys get your pc. Ive been waiting for 3 weeks now for a pc. Called Brocks Friday and was told maybe this week sometime.
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fastestbusaaround
Needs a life
I eat Fish...
Posts: 7889
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posted July 15, 2006 07:08 PM
If you dyno the bike, you will actually see a loss of low end power and a gain of mid-high end power. I guarantee it...
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FYYFF!!!
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dubious
Needs a life
Needs more time to ride!
Posts: 8442
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posted July 15, 2006 08:48 PM
 Edited By: dubious on 15 Jul 2006 21:53
Agreed, however,....Geared down to 16, flies out, piped or not, if I want to carry ANY speed OTHER than cruising I keep it humming above 5500 rpm anyway ...leaned over or not, so the 8 ft lbs, and 6 hp loss at 4000 rpm is moot really, flies out still more than made up for the little loss on bottom and 20 HP gain on top.
Plus the smeg sounds soo good, and everyone hears ya comin, some cagers are actually considerate enough to allow passing room (staggering instead of side by side), or move over!
the others cagers who think they own the road, and dislike bikes can go fuck themselves.
Lately I have been dropping down in gears till I'm cruising at 9000 rpm LOL.
At 9000 the smeg will annoy them enough to either fuck off, or get out of the way LOL 
... and they'll give up on the cell phone conversation, and pay attention to the world around them....
Phones are for Homes!.... not the road
____________
natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
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raptor14
Expert Class
Posts: 264
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posted July 16, 2006 06:42 AM
Yeah FBA, I would agree that you lose low end power with a perfomance exhaust system.
However, if I lost it with the Gen 3 and Brock's mapping it is not in an rpm range that makes
any difference to me. If there is a loss (and I have no dyno run to say the loss exists or not) it may be significant to those who drag race. But for my street riding and riding through the twisty's the power and throttle response have been vastly improved and just looking down at the speedo exiting a corner tells me I'm quicker. One better look quick cause the next corner is there before you know it. The improved throttle response has also improved my confidence entering the corner so I did increase my entry speed slightly. From 3K rpm up the bike pulls much stronger, the improvement in throttle response is extremely noticeable. Same at 4K and 5K. Above 6K I hung on hard with the stock system, now I hope I stay on the bike and live long enough to smile at the end of the acceleration. I do plan to take it to a dyno with the Gen 3 installed. I don't plan on reinstalling the stock system and zeroing out the map. So, the delta between the stock and Gen 3 for my particular bike will always be a mystery. Would have loved to have done it correctly, but riding season in CT would be over before I ever go the Gen 3 installed.
Also agree with comments by cls. Significant weight reduction.
Luck14, I like the dual exhaust look also. I had a hard time making a decision to go to a single exhaust due this preference in looks. After experiencing the results from this 4-2-1 I would not go back to dual exhausts and I would not consider slip-ons. Not only will you not get the same hp/torque gain, I don't believe that you will get the same improvement in throttle response, and response is a big deal with me because it increases my confidence through a tight corner. But what really matters is that we each ride the ride we want and that we modify our bikes according to our tastes and desires. So if you go with the dual slip-ons you won't get any bashing from me. I'll simply admire the looks of your bike and congratulate you on your style. Especially since you are making an informed decision, know the benefits and consequences, and did what you wanted to do. Enjoy your 14 to the max.
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stevewfl
Moderator
Posts: 27920
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posted July 16, 2006 01:42 PM
If you don't mind me asking, how long did the install take? A day for the PC and exhaust? Did you put remove the emissions can fom under the seat and mount the PC there?
Thanks, Steve
____________
2010 Concours14
'08 R1 YAMAHA
ZX14 gone!
CBR600RR track bike
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Raptor14
Expert Class
Posts: 264
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posted July 16, 2006 03:36 PM
Steve, see my installation comments at the top of this thread. I took 4 hours with a lot of wasted downtime taking pictures, talking to friends, and eating lunch. The PC installation took me a total of 15 minutes. I downloaded the installation instructions for the XZ-14 directly from the Dynojet web site. For some reason they removed the instructions. I have the electrons stored so I can send the instructions. If you want them send me your e-mail address so I can attach the file. They recommended attaching the PC to the left airbox inlet under the dashboard cover. That's where I put it. The ECU plug is easy to access and is located behind the radiator overflow bottle. Brock preloaded the right map so I did not have to mess with any maps. I'll be glad to answer any questions you might have. Installation is really quite easy. Hardest part is removing the fairings, but I had done it once before so that part went pretty quick for me.
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fastestbusaaround
Needs a life
I eat Fish...
Posts: 7889
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posted July 16, 2006 05:36 PM
Since the flies were removed during the process, you would never have seen the low end loss, but rather a low end gain and a big one at that...with mapping, pipes and removal of the flies, you should be running at, or slightly over the stock curve in the 3k+ range. I have the same setup on my 10 and the fucking bike won't stay on the ground, even at low rpm. My 14 system from Brock will hopefully be shiping this week...can't wait!
I've heard that the header springs are tough to install...dat true?
____________
FYYFF!!!
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stevewfl
Moderator
Posts: 27920
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posted July 16, 2006 05:56 PM
Thanks Raptor,
I put an exhaust on a ZX9 back in the days before PC's and such, and I just have some fears going into all this
I'm about to take that leap though
____________
2010 Concours14
'08 R1 YAMAHA
ZX14 gone!
CBR600RR track bike
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fastestbusaaround
Needs a life
I eat Fish...
Posts: 7889
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posted July 16, 2006 06:00 PM
Ya won't regret it...
____________
FYYFF!!!
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raptor14
Expert Class
Posts: 264
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posted July 16, 2006 06:05 PM
Before PC's when you had to rejet it was a MAJOR pain. PC install is a piece of cake. Mine came pre-loaded with the right map from Brock so I didn't even have to hook up my laptop and add a map.
PS - I'm not a mechanic. Used to work on cars in my high school days but I'm 50 years old now. Lost that skill. I'm an engineer. I design things on paper and never get my hands dirty. So if I could do this with no problem, you shouldn't have a problem.
I have the shop manual from Kawasaki. If you need instructions on fairing removal I'll be glad to scan a couple of pages and make a .pdf file. As I also said, I have the PC instructions for the 14 from Dynojet if you can't find them. Be glad to send if you provide me with your e-mail. It all makes good sense so you probably won't need them.
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stevewfl
Moderator
Posts: 27920
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posted July 16, 2006 08:12 PM
quote:
Before PC's when you had to rejet it was a MAJOR pain.
I agree 100%, but back in the day I had the rejet done by the same shop that dyno'd...no fear there LoL
That was in '99, haven't rode in a few years, and now recently bought the 14 and I see all this about PC's and maps etc. Thank God I'm puter OK, I assume after reading these threads that maps are the software files for the bike's specific configuration and PC is the little box that houses these files. I'm going to order the carbon for Brock and ask they send a PC loaded with the correct map. For 75 more I think I can't go wrong with the TRE ya'll boast about. Hopefully map will consider it.
But I was real worried about installing the stuff until you guys posted back to me. I can't thank ya'll enough, I know I sound like a total newbie with no clue LoL~
Can't wait to put this stuff on. Truthfully I trust the maps, and don't put much personal emphasis on dyno. Times matter to me a lot though and I want to get some 1/4 mile runs in before installing- and after. Thanks again for being patient and answering my ultra-simple questions!
____________
2010 Concours14
'08 R1 YAMAHA
ZX14 gone!
CBR600RR track bike
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dubious
Needs a life
Needs more time to ride!
Posts: 8442
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posted July 16, 2006 10:16 PM
The springs aren't too bad FBA.
They give you a spring puller, but I prefer using small needle nosed vise grips.
I grab the springs on the straight piece, near the base of the coils, from the side of the "J",
so the vise grips are at 90 degrees to the straight section of "J" .
Much more control, and the spring puller doesn't get pinched in between spring hook and pipe loop.
Been doing 2 strokes this way forever.
____________
natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
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raptor14
Expert Class
Posts: 264
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posted July 17, 2006 08:49 AM
There was only one spring that I had trouble with. It's at the front of the 2nd header pipe on counting from the left side of the engine (relative to you sitting on the bike). I couldn't get my hand in there to install the spring. So I went over to the right side, installed the spring on the header flange and then went over to the left side and used the supplied puller to install it on the header pipe. Or, you could just install the spring on the header flange before you install the headers. All the other springs are a piece of cake.
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DR Yosh
Parking Attendant
Posts: 18
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posted July 17, 2006 04:19 PM
You shouldn't see in low down perforance it just needs a little adv,try the yoshimura system with the full trc carbon can ..also there is ems kit also ready to to go fully mapped with a option of a handle bar three switch to change 1-3 maps at a flick of the switch...good for nos or track days
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