Needs a job
posted October 19, 2010 09:03 PM
Almost that time of year...
copied this posting from the dragbikezone here........good stuff and didn't want anyone to miss out.
Winter Storage Tips
It’s the time of year, when we need to start thinking about putting up our toys for the season. These storage tips can apply to any type of machine like PWC, Marine engines, even lawnmowers. I want to concentrate on what I would hope is your most prized possession, your motorcycle. While doing these tasks, it’s always a good idea to make a to-do list of the changes, repairs, adjustments etc. you want to make before the next season starts. Keep it in a place where you can see it and be reminded before riding season. I have made this list in the order in what I think is most important, even though you may have to perform them in a different order if you choose to do them at all. First of all drain the carb(s). If equipped turn off the petcock, access the drain screws and drain the bowls and as with fuel injection add the correct amount of fuel stabilizer. Fill the fuel tank. Prevent fuel tank corrosion. An unprotected fuel tank will flash rust and corrode easily. You will want to run the machine a few minutes or so to fully distribute the stabilizer throughout the system. Re-drain the bowls. If storing with a full tank of fuel is not possible, like in your basement etc., it’s a good idea to use a heavy weight oil to coat the tank. Use 50w oil or thicker diluted with a little fuel sloshed around inside. The small amount of oil will also help lubricate the top end when you re-start in the spring. Battery care. If neglected or ignored all winter they will most likely roll over and die. The simplest way is to wire in a Battery Tender, or Optimate brand battery charger, therefore not having to remove the battery or if it is hard to access. It isn’t necessary to remove the battery unless it gets well below freezing. Like if you have a clock, audio system memory, security system, or other constant drain on the battery. If a Battery Tender isn’t within your budget (though it will probably pay for itself by spring), a trickle charger overnight every two weeks or so or even hooked to a timer thirty minutes each day will insure against battery failure. Maintance free batteries only require cleaning the terminals of corrosion and spraying some silicone spray or battery terminal protectant on the connections. If you have a conventional battery you should fill it with distilled water up to the full mark before storage. Again, if you leave it where it may freeze, it may do so and bust the case damaging your bike and anything around it. Even one drop of battery acid on a chain could render it useless. Finish care. Clean your bike fully before storing it. Dirt and dust hold moisture and insect butts (the last thing that went through their mind when they hit your bike) are corrosive and will damage paint and metal. Road salt is also very bad. If you wash it, you need to dry it fully. A good way is one last fast ride to blow out a those little nooks and crannies. Apply wax to all painted surfaces but don’t buff it off till spring. Wax or chrome polish should protect the chrome. Coat all other metals with an anti corrosive spray. S100 brand makes a wide variety of all types of protectants for windshields, paint, chrome, leather etc. and with good results. Exhaust pipes will corrode very easily if any moisture gets to them. You should spray them inside and out with something like WD40 or again a corrosion protectant. Cover them with plastic bags with rubber bands, heavy balloons etc. Use your imagination, like maybe say with straight pipes using some novelty type condoms to slip over the ends of them for protection also it could make a funny conversation piece to help pass the winter months. Now to the engine. I recommend changing the motor oil and filter before storage instead of in the spring. Here are some reasons. The oil in it now is broken down to a degree and has acids and contaminants and other evil compounds that are corrosive and eat away at metal and rubber parts and pieces within your engine. It will also insure that fresh oil and its additives have coated all the components throughout your engine before sitting. Warm the engine fully to get out all the used oil. Even though you may get a small amount of moisture and condensation throughout the off season it will boil off and evaporate after the first long ride .It should be fine. I also recommend with a longer storage of three months or more also in the case of a unexpected longer period to protect the cylinders, valves etc., remove the spark plugs and pour (no more than a teaspoon) of heavy weight oil into the holes and turn or roll over the motor a few turns to coat the rings, cylinder walls, valves etc.. Also if wanted (this is very effective), to use a fogging oil like in PWC or marine type applications. By spraying or hence the word (fogging) the engine through the intake tract, remove the air filter or housing etc. whatever applies and simply spray the fogging oil until you oil foul the plugs and the engine dies out. Again, the spark plug holes will suffice to spray through if the filter or housing is inaccessible. Yamaha motor company has a product called Ring Free fuel additive available only at your dealership that really works. Another method for preventing interior corrosion is to use storage plugs in the spark plug holes. These contain a desiccant to absorb moisture. Again plastic bags, tape, etc. may be used to seal off air boxes, inlets, vent hoses etc. After protecting from corrosion, resist the urge to run your engine and having to repeat all the processes. Running it for just a few minutes at a time probably does more harm than good. Just remember to remove all the bags, covers, tape, condoms, etc. before starting your bike in the spring. Brake fluid is hygroscopic which means it absorbs moisture which is why it needs to be replaced. Do this at least every other year or sooner if it looses its clear amber color to a darker color. This applies to hydraulic operated clutches also. Moisture causes corrosion and also breaks down the fluid and reduces its boiling temperature and its ability to function properly and will fail in hot weather. Corrosion can also cause blockage that can result in the brakes locking up or not functioning when applied. Spring, fall, and whenever be sure old brake fluid gets replaced. Liquid cooled bikes need to have the coolant checked to insure it is up to standards for the climate you live in. Be sure it is full and well within the anti freezing range also it has anti boil properties that help cooling in hot weather. Now the tires. Inflate them to max operating pressure If possible raise them off the ground to prevent flat spots. Using a safe suitable stand. If on the ground, use a sheet of plywood with a vapor barrier under it and roll it around a few times a month to prevent flat spots. Store your tires away from sources of ozone such as electric motors in freezers, compressors, washing machines, welders etc. Don’t use any of the so-called preservative solutions that actually damage your tires. It’s better to use nothing. A good saying is if it moves lube it. You may need a wide variety of lubricants, greases, protectants, etc this includes linkages, locks, switches, cables, levers, kick stands etc. As far as storage goes inside, stay away from temperature swings from high to low. Use a breathable fabric that won’t trap moisture yet keeps dust off. If you must store outside, there are several purpose built motorcycle storage systems on the market. Such as The Bike Barn, Cycle Shed and others that seal out moisture and dust and use either a desiccant or electric dehumidifier to keep it dry. If your budget can stand it, you could rent a suitable storage building for the winter. Wherever you are and what you decide on, be sure to keep security in mind as to alarm systems, disc locks, or any of the large variety of security items that are on the market. Even tracking and recovery systems, forbidding it was to go that far. I’m sure that I might have overlooked some minor details here and there, but for the most part I believe that I have covered what I have found to be the most important. By following these steps they should help you eliminate costly, time consuming and unnecessary repairs. That’s all for now. See you next month.
British flying couch with endtables and an orange thumper