RichTJ99
Expert Class
Newbie
Posts: 153
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posted May 17, 2004 10:49 AM
Adjusting Shift lever?
Hi all,
I got a new set of boots & they are a little thick at the toe area. I was curious if I can adjust the shifter so I can fit my toe under the shifter for upshifting.
Any suggestions on how to do that would be great!
Thanks,
Rich
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Michael Lee
Zone Head
Purchase Ivy
Posts: 729
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posted May 17, 2004 10:52 AM
Your kiddin right "?"
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beansbaxter
Needs a life
Posts: 5911
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posted May 17, 2004 10:56 AM
That's why I was picky about which boots I got because of the shifting problem...thanks to swft for having a pair that works out perfect.
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dnwhoop02
Expert Class
Posts: 204
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posted May 17, 2004 10:58 AM
 Edited By: dnwhoop02 on 17 May 2004 11:59
isn't that why the shifter linkage adjusts so nicely? (and the procedure to do this should be in the user's manual, if you're not mechanically inclined to figure it out yourself)
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David
'04 ZX-10R
'00 SV650
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RichTJ99
Expert Class
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Posts: 153
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posted May 17, 2004 11:06 AM
ahh, RTFM 
well before I read it (at work now) is this a hard thing to do?
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l8-apex
Parking Attendant
Posts: 5
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posted May 17, 2004 11:16 AM
Rich,
Out of curiosity, what bikes have you owned or ridden prior to the 10R? No disrespect intended, just curious.
L8-Apex
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l8er
l8-apex
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RichTJ99
Expert Class
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Posts: 153
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posted May 17, 2004 11:19 AM
Lets see, a 1978 Honda CX 500, a 1994 (?) Suzuki Savage, a 1997 ZX6(E), 2000 ZX6R, & now a 10r.
I just never adjusted the shifter linkage is all. It looks as if its one hex key to do it but i wanted to confirm before I start messing around.
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RichTJ99
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Newbie
Posts: 153
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posted May 17, 2004 11:22 AM
Since i am short i just picked up these boots:
http://www.helimot.com/catalog/boots/boots_mstar_data.shtml
Since they are made for shorter people like me, the toe area is bigger than my other boots. Then again, so is the heel, so it could be that since my heel sits higher, I am haivng trouble with the toes,
Either way the result is the same.
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rfish
Novice Class
Posts: 57
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posted May 17, 2004 11:35 AM
rich, just loosen the locknuts on both ends of the shift linkage, turn linkage to get desired pedal position, and retighten locknuts. very simple. takes 60 seconds. locknut torque is 62 in. lbs. if you're really picky about that sort of thing
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"My point? F#*k you! That's my point." - Bucky Katt
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l8-apex
Parking Attendant
Posts: 5
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posted May 17, 2004 11:35 AM
Okay, I was just a little worried that the 10 might be your first bike (I know there are some out there). Adjusting the shifter (and reversing it), angle of levers, clutch and throttle play are the first things I do after picking up a new bike.
No, it's not a hex key. You loosen the lock nuts on each end of the shift kinkage rod and then turn the rod to raise or lower the lever. 5 minute job at most.
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l8er
l8-apex
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dnwhoop02
Expert Class
Posts: 204
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posted May 17, 2004 11:41 AM
quote:
locknut torque is 62 in. lbs. if you're really picky about that sort of thing
how would you adjust those nuts to a specific torque? I mean, I know they have small torque wrenches that do inch pounds, but doesn't the head of the wrench need to turn in the same axis as the bolt (or nut) that you're turning in order to get an accurate torque setting?
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David
'04 ZX-10R
'00 SV650
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rfish
Novice Class
Posts: 57
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posted May 17, 2004 12:07 PM
use a crowsfoot offset at 90 degrees to the torque wrench.
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"My point? F#*k you! That's my point." - Bucky Katt
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RichTJ99
Expert Class
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Posts: 153
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posted May 17, 2004 01:37 PM
Hrm. I looked in the owners manual & didnt see anything about shifter adjustment.
Could someone point out which bolts I should losen to do this?
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dnwhoop02
Expert Class
Posts: 204
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posted May 17, 2004 01:55 PM
see that rod that connects the shift lever to the transmission... it has two ball joints on either end covered in a rubber hood to keep dirt out. You have to peel the rubber back a little to put a wrench on the end piece to keep it from turning when you turn the lock nut right next to it....
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David
'04 ZX-10R
'00 SV650
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RichTJ99
Expert Class
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Posts: 153
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posted May 17, 2004 02:16 PM
Ok, so I peel back the rubber piece & there is a lock nut on it, I loosen the lock nut & then I also loosen the nut.
So I pull back #2, then I loosen the lock nut that is hidden underneath, then I also loosen #1, then do #3 & #4,
At that point I am guessing that the shifter itself can be pointed either up or down.
If I am having trouble getting my boot covered foot under the shifter for upshifting, I would want to slightly raise the shifter right?
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Michael Lee
Zone Head
Purchase Ivy
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posted May 17, 2004 03:47 PM
Your f'ing with us right? Is this the point where you lol . . . . .
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andy
Expert Class
Posts: 220
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posted May 17, 2004 03:50 PM
#2 is the only one you need to mess with Rich. Loosen it and slide it off the shaft, after that you'll see that turning it moves the shifter up and down. Slide it on, tighten up.
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redelk
Moderator
Please... speak to the hand.
Posts: 3212
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posted May 17, 2004 04:08 PM
l8-apex, did you have to notch the lower fairing when you switched to a GP shift pattern? I couldn't figure out another way to do it (without getting a longer or shorter tie rod) when I switched mine over.
I just cut off about 1 1/2" of the lower fairing lip (the part that is turned in towards the engine). That gave me enough space for the joint to clear, but the boot on the joint still slightly rubs the inside of the fairing. I know that eventually, it will wear a hole in the rubber. Not that's its a big deal or anything, but I was interested in alternatives methods in reversing the shift pattern while still using all of the existing OEM linkage.
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andy
Expert Class
Posts: 220
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posted May 17, 2004 04:12 PM
Edited By: andy on 17 May 2004 17:12
I buffed about 1/16" off the end of the linkage with the dremel. Doesn't touch anymore.
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CanyonCarver
Expert Class
Posts: 121
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posted May 17, 2004 05:56 PM
If you loosen the nuts at either end, I guess both 2 & 4 in your photo, you can just turn the rod one way or the other to adjust. The one thing I didn't see anyone mention is that one end is standard thread, the other is reverse thread. So, be careful loosening/tightening the lock-nuts. Lefty-loosey, righty-tighty only works on one end. And you shouldn't have to remove anything, just loosen the locknuts.
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CanyonCarver
Expert Class
Posts: 121
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posted May 17, 2004 05:59 PM
quote:
I buffed about 1/16" off the end of the linkage with the dremel. Doesn't touch anymore.
Damn! Why didn't I think of that before hitting the fairing with a die-grinder? Did you cut the fairing at all? Or was the grinding of the linkage enought by itself? Too late now for me, but curious if I could have avoided whittling on the bodywork.
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andy
Expert Class
Posts: 220
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posted May 17, 2004 06:34 PM
quote:
quote:
I buffed about 1/16" off the end of the linkage with the dremel. Doesn't touch anymore.
Damn! Why didn't I think of that before hitting the fairing with a die-grinder? Did you cut the fairing at all? Or was the grinding of the linkage enought by itself? Too late now for me, but curious if I could have avoided whittling on the bodywork.
No I didn't do anything to the fairing. And it of course looks nice and pretty with the rubber booty covering the scar.
Sorry about that bit of bad news.
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trikchop
Expert Class
Posts: 247
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posted May 17, 2004 07:49 PM
if i had a black one id probably go cutting up the plastics too.
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RichTJ99
Expert Class
Newbie
Posts: 153
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posted May 17, 2004 08:40 PM
quote:
Your f'ing with us right? Is this the point where you lol . . . . .
Im seriously not messing around here. I have never played with it & probably after I mess with it I will understand your disbelief (is it really that simple?)
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swft
Needs a life
Full throttle!
Posts: One MEEEEEELLION
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posted May 17, 2004 09:10 PM
yes
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