guamaniac
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posted March 11, 2004 05:00 PM
ZX10R Break-in Rob, Kerry??
I've seen a post before and I think a bunch of well known guys including mr. Muzzy stating a method of proper break-in. How are you guys going to break in your 10s?
Rob Muzzy, K. Bryant--what are your recommendations???
  
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k bryant
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posted March 11, 2004 07:32 PM
By the book. Always by the book on a new stock motorcycle. I don't believe anyone knows better than the OEM on their engine.
Racebike, completely different set of rules (long post before on this). Now if you took a brand new motor apart, blueprinted it, etc, the break-in perameters would be changed again depending on set-up.
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swft
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posted March 11, 2004 07:45 PM
Yep yep ayep!
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Ronis
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posted March 12, 2004 01:24 AM
I'm going to get 10R in 1-2 weeks and I'll break it in HARD!!
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A bad track day is better than a good day at work!!
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I_want_a_ZX10R
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posted March 12, 2004 06:43 AM
What about MotoMan's (http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm) break in procedure? According to him, he's performed this on over 300 engines with success. You can see the blow-by on the pistons where an "easy" break-in was performed. The "hard break-in" pistons were completely clean and still looked brand new. What do ya think?
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k bryant
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posted March 12, 2004 08:36 AM
posted February 21, 2004 12:56 PM Edited By: k bryant on 21 Feb 2004 13:00
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Below is what I stated before on this subject. The thread is back on page 2 (currently) about ZX10 break-in.
By the book, every time. Who am I to argue with the recommended break-in schedule of the engine designer, manufacture, and company that is going to take care of my warranty issues?
We most definetly all have our opinions. For 30 years, and approximately 50 brand new motorcycles personally owned, it's always by the book. I've had longevity, high compression, and (knock on wood) zero problems or complaints.
When I've built, raced, tested racebikes, set-up with particular tolerances for minimal break-in, the results are great. But... these results are short lived. The engines are designed to give a pre-determined, fairly short life span before being taking apart and freshened up.
When I've tested magazine bikes on the dyno with very little or no mileage, the hp/tq figures are normally not up to max spec or expectations. As you get miles on them and re-test, the figures consistently higher. Break-in loosens up things, they have less drag (spin easier) and enteria comes easier. A certain amount of carbon build-up, up to a point, can build compression and power. But it depends on what the engine is designed for maximum hp? Longevity? Combo of both?
The pistons noted in the photo's showing a full season of racing in a F3 engine are remarkable. But I simply don't buy it. I have seen extremely clean pistons, run over a fairly long period on nothing but pure canned race fuel. But mix in the daily driver scenerios of low rpm, pump gas, long idles and warm-up, and they surely will not look like race pistons run wfo all their life. Not a chance. You'll have to get other opinions here. He claims to have done this with over "300" engines. Where has he been during the life-cycle? Is he saying he has documented proof of their life cycle over a 10k, 20k 50k mile engine? I didn't see that....
Streetbike manufactures ask for detailed, somewhat long break-ins of up to 1000 miles to ensure long life and max performance of their products. They are confident in their oil change intervals, which most of us adjust based on our own driving conditions.
Even race bikes, such as Motocross bikes require more break-in than he recommends. Yamaha's YZ450F is a stout model. Yamaha recommends I believe 3 heat cycles and moderate throttle settings before going out and appling WFO. They base this on that particular engine design. My point being, every manufacture will have their own parameters. Who is he, but another person with an opinion to question them? I guess only time and results will tell...
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guamaniac
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posted March 12, 2004 08:58 AM
This is all so confusing... Here is a link to a break-in procedure by Rob Lee. It's a summary from a mag a while back with some top dogs in the industry....
http://www.zx6r.com/breakinmain.html
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RobMuzzy
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posted March 12, 2004 09:05 AM
I concur with Kerry. By the book. Race engine is another story.
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k bryant
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posted March 12, 2004 09:13 AM
Yes, you can indeed be confused by all the expert opinions. My point has been, and always will be, how can you argue what the engine designer/builder recomendations, as it comes set-up stock from the factory? In the same breath, how can you argue the points of such respected tuners?
The very respected tuners/builders noted in your link would take a great deal more care in building their individual engines (ie; blueprinting). They are not mass producing them. So their "blue-printing" (per say), is at a much higher level and under those circumstances, the break-in procedures would be/can be different.
Still confused? I thought so..... 
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guamaniac
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posted March 12, 2004 09:13 AM
Thanks Rob ...just waiting for you to chime in. I figured I'd have to hear it from the person mentioned in the article referenced above. Kerry--same thing, thanks for the info and advice--I have always broke in my bikes by the book (ZX7R and 03 6R). Hopefully when I get my 10 soon it won't be as bad because it ain't going to be like 4k on a 6 go 45-50MPH plus varying the throttle 
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marco383
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posted March 12, 2004 10:48 AM
I agree that Kawasaki knows best on how to treat their products, but 500 miles at 4000 rpm (approx. 60 mph in 6th)or under is torture. Around here, that means stay off the main roads or be run into the weeds by a semi.
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