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BIKELAND > FORUMS > DRAGBIKE ZONE.com > Thread: Doug Meyer oil pipe mod NEW TOPIC NEW POLL POST REPLY
moko


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posted May 25, 2012 03:47 PM        Edited By: moko on 26 May 2012 00:16
Doug Meyer oil pipe mod

Hi,my name is Karl,im rebuilding my '90 zx11......ill line up my oil passage by the main bearing cap(as i did on my ' 87 zx1000)....i really like Doug's oil pipe to pickup area...coming from where it comes in at oil cooler.if you see this Doug,ide greatly be thanks if you could tell me type of pipe and size,and fittings...and maybe where to buy....so i can do this myself.i know i cant do it the exact way you did,but i want to do this to mine.i think like with my zx1000....when it spun 3 bearing(i wrecked,and the previous owner took of the bar ends,so when the bike feel on the right side it turned the throttle and reved the motor up,before i could hit the stop switch : (.....spunned bearing)....all it really needs is keeping the oil at top of window....and if in the motor,line up the oil hole.

i put 10k miles after rebuilding my zx1000...and it ran great.

just bought this zx11 off craigslist pretty cheap,cause it had bearing go bad.i personally think...just by checking it now...that the PO was low on oil.

ive got a good used crank.....not turned....and would like to do what you had done....i really like the idea,you could pm me also......any help...thanks.

btw:if i had the money ide be doing the +3 stroker,+1mmm bore .....but dont have the money.i have thought about atleast milling the head....just dont want to mess with reliabilty

i also want to cut the skirt windows out....like i believe Karl did.(hope your doing alot better Karl)

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moko


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posted May 25, 2012 05:59 PM        

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dougmeyer


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posted May 25, 2012 06:36 PM        
In case it isn't clear, the reason for that is that the oil returning to the sump from the cooler is dumped directly on the pickup. It's just one more thing that might help keep the pickup "wet", The tubes are part of the Terry Kizer Bearing feed kit, which again is no remedy for low oil levels but helps to avoid a bubble getting to the bearing.
Those are standard "AN" fittings available from Earl's or any "Speedshop". You can buy them at aircraft supply, but will pay twice as much for the same stuff. The one screwed into the pan is a 1/4 tapered pipe ( I think) to -6 flare nipple. It's a standard fitting.You also need a -6 "B-Nut" and a matching flare ferrule. The tube is -6 tubing (which is 3/8 O.D.) flared on the long end. Mine is stainless but you could use aluminum just as well. You need to tap the pan from the inside for the tapered pipe fitting, but you don't need to drill it. I think by coincidence the hole in the pan is just about right for the tap. Show this pic to any race car guy or aircraft guy and they could whip that tube up for you in 10 minutes.
Doug
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entropy


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posted May 25, 2012 07:31 PM        
Moko,
i love seeing people post pix of builds in progress.

MORE!!!!!!

Karl
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moko


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Posts: 62
posted May 26, 2012 06:58 AM        Edited By: moko on 26 May 2012 15:02
thanks entropy...btw,im Karl with a "K" too ..... im excited for the build : )

part of what you said Doug ....

"In case it isn't clear, the reason for that is that the oil returning to the sump from the cooler is dumped directly on the pickup. It's just one more thing that might help keep the pickup "wet",

....great idea Doug,i do like your "oil pipe return mod", for directing the return oil....close to the pickup.i can just amagine in a 10k rpm...in a wheelie at that....where that oil is splashing around coming in at the stock return(every bit counts).

Doug said...
"The tubes are part of the Terry Kizer Bearing feed kit, which again is no remedy for low oil levels but helps to avoid a bubble getting to the bearing."

i should have pointed that out ....sorry
the picture does show Terry Kizer's bearing feed kit....i give him credit for that ....very nice.

but for my application...i dont think i need that.im glad the inside diameter of the oil pan.....is enough,that i can just tap it....and not drill.

thanks for sharing your knowledge on the engine build.....can't wait to tackle mine....which has already started this week.

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dougmeyer


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posted May 26, 2012 08:07 AM        
Moko,
On the tapping of tapping of the pan, if I'm not remembering that correctly and it needs to be drilled, the the correct diameter for the tap is smaller than the threaded hole in the pan and you can drill it from the outside. I did that, like 15 years ago!
God help us , Karl. We're OLD.
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moko


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posted May 26, 2012 12:01 PM        
hahaha.......thanks Doug
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entropy


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posted May 26, 2012 03:43 PM        
Doug,
o ancient one, which Karl are you saying is "OLD" ???
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moko


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posted May 26, 2012 03:47 PM        
lol
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moko


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Posts: 62
posted May 31, 2012 11:25 PM        
btw: wats the best tool to cut the window sleeves out with,also.....with the zx11c model,if i mill the head....how much is safe......trying to get the cr up to 12.1-1 cheaper than buying a piston kit....cause i dont have the money right now,and while engine is apart....would like to do some power improvments that are free or cheap : )
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dougmeyer


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posted June 01, 2012 12:41 PM        
You window the sleeves on a milling machine. It's a real simple operation, just put the cylinder on the table, head side down and do each pair by moving the Y axis.
With stock pistons you can do 1mm on the head BUT you must pay attention to degreeing the cams. I prefer .5mm on the cylinder, which reduces the squish, and then .5 on the head again, carefully degreeing the cams to ensure VtoP..
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moko


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posted June 01, 2012 03:59 PM        Edited By: moko on 2 Jun 2012 00:00
thanks alot Doug....i dont have a milling machine,but ive though of taking it to a good shop in north georgia(know one,i know of star racing down south,but is there one north of atlanta thats good for millin head)....and then ill degree cams.i havent done this before and dont even have a kit(can i just get a video dvd,and just a wheel,like motion pro's).
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dougmeyer


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posted June 02, 2012 04:21 PM        
Moko,
Get somebody to work with who's degreed a 2 cam bike engine before. You are likely to bend something teaching yourself. Also,you don't need a motorcycle engine shop for the machine work and any machine shop can do the cylinders if you show them a pic. Any good car shop can do the head.
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moko


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posted June 02, 2012 05:12 PM        Edited By: moko on 3 Jun 2012 01:16
thanks for the info....ill work with someone thats done the degreeing,and find a good machine shop close by.

btw:i got my shifter to move a 1/4 inch farther up(moving drum farther also by doing this)mainly because i noticed second gear BARELY pushed the forks...and gear....into next gear.has anyone else tried this...it shifted better for me
i also removed neutral finder....but that was preference.
i posted this on another site.....i think zx/zrx 900/1000/1100 owners should check theres if ever in motor

" the wheels on the shifter arm.....barely get on top of the "plateau" of the shifter drum....to stay in second....very easy for it to roll back into neutral......this is on alot on the zx bottoms end and tranny design......zx 900/1000/11 zrx concours.....i ground down about a quarter inch on the peg that stops the shifter from moving up.....this is under the cover....it allowed the trans to full move into second gear.....i did this when modding my crankshaft cap to line up oil holes as they should have been(when i raired 3rd rod being spun).....i made sure the other gears were not moving to far forward and drum wasnt moving to far to go over.....since this mod makes the drum move forward for ALL the gears.......no problem..... i was in the motor i decided to take out the 3 all bearings that cause this motor to have its "positive nuetral finder".....its alittle harder to find nuetral for acouple of days to get use to it,but easy after.

IMO,getting the shifter to move up alittle farther is all i think the zx motors needs to shift fine....you dont need cut trans and all,those are best....especially if racing and/or adding alot of power,but not the zx 2nd gear main problem i think...mine shifts into second like butter......i took out the posi finder,cuase i didnt like having to spin up the motor to shift into second....thats just dumb to me...plus it does stop it from shifting into second sometimes when you want it too.but everyone has their opinion

ofcourse make sure theres no play in your no play in your shift lever and its adjusted good for you......sometimes people think its their tranny,when its one of these problems.

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moko


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posted June 02, 2012 11:55 PM        
im posting this partly because,i think it matters,and the other half.......does it really matter......i dont know.....just felt compelled to add it for someone inbthe motor..........does it help,i dont know........just passing it along to my brother zx owners : )
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moko


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posted June 22, 2012 07:45 AM        Edited By: moko on 22 Jun 2012 15:50
im getting parts for oil pan mod today...or tamorrow...and ill post pics of it and other pics

here's from yesterday....yep,third rod bearing....from too low oil level i believe from PO



how do you'll like this pic....its me looking through the main bearing cap...and seeing the damaged rod bearing journal lol








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moko


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Posts: 62
posted June 22, 2012 07:55 AM        Edited By: moko on 22 Jun 2012 16:07
when i first saw this,i thought i looked like how a repaired crank would go bad....since the beginning of the damaged makes me think its a place metal was added,then ground down to good....what do you'll think?







work area.....next project , build a garage...




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moko


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Posts: 62
posted June 22, 2012 06:59 PM        
the hole,with the smaller hole inside....this is the passage to the balancer shaft,im going to plug this up....hows the easiest/cheapest way to do it



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moko


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Posts: 62
posted June 28, 2012 10:08 PM        Edited By: moko on 29 Jun 2012 06:10
im taking my block to machine shop......ive been searching for the deminisions on the window sleep cut out....if someone cohld post it......that would be great......thanks

btw.....thanks again Doug,ive got the pan oil hole tapped.....i didnt drill the inside hole bigger just tapped it with a 3/8 tap

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dougmeyer


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posted June 29, 2012 03:49 PM        
Just plug that balance oil feed hole with some JB Weld or epoxy, take the gear/weight off the shaft and put the shaft back in the case to plug the hole.

Regarding your comments on the shift drum, I have NEVER heard of this or anything like this being needed. If all the stock parts are undamaged a ZX-11 should shift flawlessly foot or button. Look at your parts carefully.

The windows in the sleeves are 15mm deep and 25mm across.
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moko


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posted June 29, 2012 04:27 PM        
thanks alot Doug will do

tbanks for the measurments

yea....i was probally being anal on the shifting : )

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moko


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Posts: 62
posted July 02, 2012 09:36 PM        
btw Doug....im get the block milled .5mm....and was wondering if i dont mill the head,just do the .5mm on block, .and i was going to remove the base gasket....which is about .2mm or .008inch.

so that would be around .7mm,.0275inch , all together......what in general would my CR be around?

for the money ,i was thinking of just doing this....then in the winter when i put a 1080 kit on,i might mill the head some then.


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moko


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Posts: 62
posted June 02, 2013 04:53 AM        Edited By: moko on 2 Jun 2013 12:55
hey Doug.....love my bike with copy of your mod ....not as good as yours,but my best copy ......runnin good

just wanted to say thanks and post a picture.....this was from last year


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dougmeyer


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posted June 02, 2013 07:44 AM        
NIce Job!

Looking at your previous post, I'm wondering how your top end came out. What deck height and squish did you end up with and wha's your cranking pressure?

Doug
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entropy


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posted June 02, 2013 02:50 PM        Edited By: entropy on 2 Jun 2013 22:50
I <3 Doug Meyer; TRUE enthusiast!!!!!

karl
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