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BIKELAND > FORUMS > DRAGBIKE ZONE.com > Thread: procedure for new rod bearings? NEW TOPIC NEW POLL POST REPLY
almost_les


Zone Head
Posts: 590
posted March 28, 2011 08:20 PM        
procedure for new rod bearings?

let me know if this sounds about right for a zx12r:

remove rods
mic crank OD
reasseble rods w/bearings to factory torque specs
use high accuracy bore gauge to measure rod big end ID w/ bearings in
mic old bearing halves
mic new bearing halves to find .0025" clearance all around
reassemble to factory torque scpecs

replace rod bolts and resize rods after next disassembly

sounds about right? let me know if i'm missing any steps.

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dougmeyer


Needs a job
moderated
Posts: 2658
posted March 29, 2011 08:32 PM        
Well, Why not just assemble the rods with the NEW bearings and measure the ID of that. You can skip the comparison step .......
Unlike "large" auto engine bearing shell halves, which vary a lot and can be sorted through, you really only have three sizes (colors) to choose from, so measure with the "middle" ones (black? I forgot) and then go either way to get the right clearance (rarely required).
If you do measure nearing shell thickness, you need to use the small ball attachments to the mic.
____________
It's not that I think you're dumb, it's just that so much of what you know isn't true....

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almost_les


Zone Head
Posts: 590
posted March 29, 2011 09:02 PM        
10-4 i've been scouring the forum and google the past few days trying to find the best tools/ methods. so far im pretty set on an electronic bore gauge with 0.00005" resolution and a good set of master bores. was looking at some 3 point internal micrometers, but they get a bit pricey.

heres what i've found so far:

http://www.tooltopia.com/fowler-74-646-401.aspx?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=FOW74646401&utm_campaign=googlebase_18u

http://www.tooltopia.com/fowler-73-646-000.aspx


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tcchin


Zone Head
Posts: 867
posted March 29, 2011 10:39 PM        
Does Scott D. still have that list of tools that we created for him, back when he was a rookie?

You can always use a micrometer to calibrate your bore gauge if you don't have a setting ring of the exact diameter. Just be sure you get a mic stand to hold the mic, or you will spend all your time calibrating stuff. A nice, clean set of mechanic's gloves will keep the heat out of your tools too, ensuring accuracy between measurements.

A good indicator is the key to a good bore gauge setup. Be sure that the bore gauge set you buy uses standard 3/8" mounting provisions so you can upgrade the head unit to something cooler in the future. I started off with a Fowler set like the ones you mentioned, only mine was analog, and then added a nice Mitutoyo 543-266B that I got on Ebay a few years later.

I'm a big fan of digital mics and indicators because they don't require any interpretation - they read what they measure. Trying to count the tick marks on an analog mic at 03:30 when you're thinking about loading the trailer in less than six hours can lead to a lot of erroneous measurements. That being said, the fact that an analog instrument displays readings between graduations means that you can interpolate readings, thus increasing the precision of your measurement, something that cannot be done with a digital instrument. Of course, if your digital instrument can read down to an RCH, like the Mitutoyo 543-266B, then there's no need to interpolate.

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tcchin


Zone Head
Posts: 867
posted March 29, 2011 10:49 PM        
quote:
Well, Why not just assemble the rods with the NEW bearings and measure the ID of that. You can skip the comparison step .......
Unlike "large" auto engine bearing shell halves, which vary a lot and can be sorted through, you really only have three sizes (colors) to choose from, so measure with the "middle" ones (black? I forgot) and then go either way to get the right clearance (rarely required).
If you do measure nearing shell thickness, you need to use the small ball attachments to the mic.

Maybe my bore gauges are sprung too stiffly, but even if I shim them so that they are just barely oversized for the bore they're measuring, they still gouge and score the bejeezus out of the lead on the bearings. That's why I measure the steel connecting rods with the bore gauge and the soft lead bearings with a mic with the largest spherical anvils available and as little pressure as will yield repeatable readings. Having .00005" accuracy does no good if the bore gauge tips are buried .0004" into the material.

The green bikes may be different, but on Suzukis, you have five or six color choices, and they are rarely within tolerance. Like Doug said, you have to pick a color and use it as a baseline, and then adjust from there. Be sure to buy spares in case something is out of tolerance. A few left over bearings is usually cheaper than waiting a week to re-order parts.

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almost_les


Zone Head
Posts: 590
posted March 29, 2011 11:02 PM        
thanks for the advice. spent some more time looking around and i think im gonna go with the fowler electronic bore guage and a mitutoyo 1-2" mic for calibration and crankpin meaurement
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entropy


Moderator
Posts: 8671
posted March 30, 2011 04:47 AM        
almost_les

My advice is to schedule a ph call with Tim Chin if he has the time. TAKE NOTES!!!!!
There are a lot of ways to do this stuff, and many gottchas.
Tim lead me thru that minefield and i will be forever grateful.

Mistakes are real easy to make, and those mistakes can be very expensive...

Karl
____________
This moderator uses moderation in moderation

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tcchin


Zone Head
Posts: 867
posted March 30, 2011 11:09 AM        
Correction: I have a Mitutoyo 543-263, not a 543-266B. I use it in mm mode, where the resolution is .001mm.
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KZScott


Needs a life
high on speed
Posts: 7147
posted March 30, 2011 06:10 PM        
CEN-TECH 1.4-6'' ELECTRONIC BORE GAUGE
Harbor Freight ITEM 94873-2VGA

McMaster-Carr
Economy Electronic Outside Micrometers
Harsh Environment
0-1" (0-25mm) 0.75" ±0.00016" 2091A5 95.08

1-2" (25-50mm) 1.25" ±0.00016" 2091A6 117.12


wasnt there an issue with a bore gauge digging into the bearing surface and throwing off readings? i mic the shells, and use the bore gauge on tqd empty rods and cases
____________
01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 no bars, DOT rubber, Pump Gas NA..... turbo 8.47 @ 164
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, Pump Gas, 55 shot... turbo 8.32 @173
00 ZX-12R NA 1: 222.04 1.5: 226.39 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 226.5 1.5: 231.6 Loring AFB

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tcchin


Zone Head
Posts: 867
posted March 30, 2011 07:06 PM        
Yeah - read four posts up.
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KZScott


Needs a life
high on speed
Posts: 7147
posted April 01, 2011 02:40 PM        
asleep at the wheel again...
____________
01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 no bars, DOT rubber, Pump Gas NA..... turbo 8.47 @ 164
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, Pump Gas, 55 shot... turbo 8.32 @173
00 ZX-12R NA 1: 222.04 1.5: 226.39 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 226.5 1.5: 231.6 Loring AFB

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davej


Expert Class
Posts: 451
posted April 07, 2011 06:17 PM        
quote:
10-4 i've been scouring the forum and google the past few days trying to find the best tools/ methods. so far im pretty set on an electronic bore gauge with 0.00005" resolution and a good set of master bores. was looking at some 3 point internal micrometers, but they get a bit pricey.

heres what i've found so far:

http://www.tooltopia.com/fowler-74-646-401.aspx?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=FOW74646401&utm_campaign=googlebase_18u

http://www.tooltopia.com/fowler-73-646-000.aspx


To many decimiles, not even the CMM machines can be that accurate. A tri mike only gives you the average and the best in only in tenths of a thousand inch. It can't give you a true reading for enlongation. You can't use anything that puts pressure on the soft babbet that will give you a poor reading. Bring your stuff to the machine shop and you will get a true reading. Contact Nick.
____________
Triumph guy

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almost_les


Zone Head
Posts: 590
posted April 08, 2011 06:38 PM        
thanks for the info
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