zxfingyz
Expert Class
Posts: 424
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posted August 31, 2003 08:05 AM
zx12 electrical/engine failure while riding
I'm new and have been scanning the forums for an answer to what happened to my zx-12 but haven't seen anything quite like this yet.
I was riding on the highway when my gauges went dead and then the bike went dead. Pulled off the road tried to restart no luck. Bike towed to body shop(long story, f*&king tow truck driver) and body shop guy restarts but then dies again. I realize that this bike is going to the shop anyway I slice it but I still can't stop wondering what the heck happened. 6k miles, new battery that was charged right, all recalls met so far as I know. Bike was riding just fine until it died.
Any speculation would be greatly appreciated.
  
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necro
Needs a job
My Grandma Is A Virgin
Posts: 2148
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posted August 31, 2003 08:13 AM
I know that this is a far shot, but try looking at your kick stand switch.
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3829
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RAC4IT
Needs a job
Bergie
Posts: 3009
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posted August 31, 2003 08:46 AM
Stator wiring
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nedragr
Zone Head
Posts: 504
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posted August 31, 2003 09:43 AM
quote:
Stator wiring
Very possible!! The connector is found in the tail section of the bike. Take the seat of and you'll be able to get to it.
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Real racebikes run premix!!
http://www.bikepics.com/members/nedragr/
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psycho1122
Pro
Posts: 1608
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posted August 31, 2003 10:05 PM
 Edited By: psycho1122 on 31 Aug 2003 23:10
Kickstand Switch!
Read your owners book in trouble shooting. This can also happen if you hit a bump or bump the sidestand w/ your foot.
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You say PSYCHO like it's a BAD thing!!
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ScaredyCat
Expert Class
Posts: 201
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posted September 01, 2003 05:26 AM
Beside from the sidestand (I agree that's the most likely problem), check your +ve and -ve leads from the battery. A high resistance on either (loose, corroded etc) will kill your electrics completely.
I'm not going to mention fuses 'cos you'd have checked them - the weird thing though (to me anyway), is that Kawa decided to put another fuse outside the ribberised protector thing - why is that?
Beside going through the whole bike with a multimeter, not much I can offer - but start with the simple stuff - a total electrical failure isn't usually an alectronic problem. Connections, fuses and broken wires are about all that can cause it.
Oh yeah, what about the anti-tamper ignition switch? Is that a suspect?
Just thinking aloud - good luck.
Scaredy
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If it ain't broke, BREAK IT.
 
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zxfingyz
Expert Class
Posts: 424
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posted September 01, 2003 12:53 PM
How cool is that? Join a forum and in 3 days have complete strangers take the time to diagnose my bike problem sight unseen. Too damn cool, that is how cool.
Bike is still with the body shop but when I get it back I am going to start with what you guys mentioned. After having read the forums and seen all the trouble one could have with the ZX-12 I have to admit I am a little freaked out. Thanks for taking time to help me!
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REDRIDER
Expert Class
Posts: 120
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posted September 03, 2003 01:27 PM
Most have no problems.Mine included.
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your car is slow
Needs a job
Fuck Nitrous...Got Boost?
Posts: 4089
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posted September 03, 2003 02:01 PM
cant believe noone asked if it has a PC3 on it or not???
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Do not taunt happy fun ball!
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nedragr
Zone Head
Posts: 504
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posted September 03, 2003 02:16 PM
quote:
cant believe noone asked if it has a PC3 on it or not???
That's another one!!! I wish he'd get back to his topic, I'm more than a little curious. 
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Real racebikes run premix!!
http://www.bikepics.com/members/nedragr/
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redelk
Moderator
Please... speak to the hand.
Posts: 3212
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posted September 03, 2003 06:06 PM
How "dead" is "dead"?
Does any sign of electrical power show when you turn the key on (i.e. bike turns over, warning lights, gauges move, fuel pump gurgle, etc.)? ANY sign?
Yo might want to check your ignition switch circuit. You can also do a search here on "ignition switch". There was a very detailed discussion on switch related problems.
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There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games.
-Ernest Hemingway
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zxfingyz
Expert Class
Posts: 424
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posted September 04, 2003 07:47 AM
That's another one!!! I wish he'd get back to his topic, I'm more than a little curious.
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I am here! I check every day. This is the coolest thing! The problem is in my explanation of the incident in question and the bike I bet. Green 2000 with only 6k miles on it, fully stock no mods yet. Had difficulty with battery that came with bike wouldn't hold a charge and meter reading was not very high. Replaced battery and everything was cool.
About a month later( last week) riding to work doing about 70mph and notice digital gauges are dead and now bike is losing power pull over and bike won't turn over, still get the little grrnt but just barely. Two red light on TACH or Speedo lit up. Lights still worked. Bike stays dead for about the hour it took for the towtruck to arrive. Get bike to body shop (after tow truck driver ties it down wrong and I am not paying enough attention to notice and bike falls over on flat bed, tow company picking up tab, yes) and it starts up but dies quickly and sounded not good. Bike has been in body shop since so no chance to begin the diagnostic.
Trusted bike shop(Performance II in Merrillville, IN) can't get it in for about a week and dealer might be able to get it in next week, maybe.
When I had the battery trouble the bike would run until I shut it off then not start again for awhile. But it would run if you push started. I have not had the pleasure of losing power in transit before and didn't attempt to push start it for fear that I would make whatever was wrong worse. The guy starting it up at the body shop kinda thru me for a loop. I get the bike back in the next day or so.
No mods, no indication of a problem, just died.
Thanks for taking an interest.
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zxfingyz
Expert Class
Posts: 424
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posted September 05, 2003 03:46 PM
Visited bike at body shop where they tried to start it but won't turn over. They hooked up a charger and the bike tries to turn over! Body shop owner used to race bikes thinks it sounds like the starter is "hung up" and something in the starter is bad. Fuses checked and are fine he says but I bet he missed the ones by the battery. Starter?
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redelk
Moderator
Please... speak to the hand.
Posts: 3212
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posted September 05, 2003 04:03 PM
Does the bike try to fire or does it just turn over? If it does not attempt to fire up, even once, it still could be something to do with the ignition switch. Just a thoght (and a lil' personal experience).
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There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games.
-Ernest Hemingway
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zxfingyz
Expert Class
Posts: 424
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posted September 15, 2003 05:50 AM
Ok. Bike is back. Fuses all good. My mechanic buddy takes battery out, it is dead. charges the battery and it starts right up. No trouble, no FI light. Headlight doesn't work - no power coming to headlight. No power coming to battery out of charging system. He thinks the stator is bad or the alternator magnets are bad. Any thoughts? He is saying get the 'special removal tool' and then we get into it. I am thinking F*&K it take it to the shop and let the chips fall( out of my pocket). I am getting jumpy because the days are getting shorter. Also there is an 'extra' wire running out of the plug in the back for the alternator that is not factory. So it looks like it has been worked on before.
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ra12r
Zone Head
Posts: 919
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posted September 15, 2003 06:49 AM
Head lights are on a seoerate fuse i believe. Headlights will work without the bike running,,,,so that is not stator related. I think you may have a bad ECM?! Something like this happened to my R6. Crazy electrical symptoms!!! Try this, put your ECM in the freezer for about 4 hrs. Then put it immediately on the bike frozen and see if your problems go away.
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All must bow to the "Ra Supremecy"...
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kawachan
Pro
Posts: 1031
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posted September 15, 2003 01:00 PM
Your stator is bad or the wires have been cut/melted. Headlights WILLNOT work w/o the stator. My gas tank cut through my stator wires once (my fault) and my bike did the same thing. Bought two batteries before I figured it out. Jump-started fine etc. Wire only broke contact occasionally and I never noticed the H/L since I ride mostly during the day.
No special removal tool needed. A good mech can take it out for you.
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RED NINJAS RULE!!
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wannabe
Pro
Posts: 1931
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posted September 15, 2003 01:48 PM
Headlight doesnt work?
Did you check the 20 AMP headlight fuse that is behind the battery? If you take out the battery box, there are two fuses in there. 1.) 30 AMP main fuse, and 2.) 20 AMP headlight fuse. That's most likely your culprit.
This weekend, I was wiring up my air shifter to my horn button, and I kept making mistakes in the wiring. I found out what all the fuses are for this weekend. I think I ended up replacing 4 10AMP fuses and 3 20AMP fuses. 
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zxfingyz
Expert Class
Posts: 424
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posted September 22, 2003 07:32 AM
Kawa dealer service dept. says:
Stator, Voltage regulator and both headlight relays bad.
Add the gasket and 3 hours labor for a grand total of
$800 plus.
Anyone seen my golf clubs?
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zxfingyz
Expert Class
Posts: 424
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posted September 29, 2003 05:37 AM
OK so I was wrong.
Stator $384.92
Regulator-voltage 127.00
Relay-Assy (Headlights) 49.04
Gasket 27.52
Diagnostic time 60.00
Labor 3 Hours 180.00
Supplies 5.95
Total(before Tax) 798.53
Total amount paid 832.04
Getting my bike back with at least 2 -4 more weeks of riding time?
Priceless.
And damn it runs nice.
When I bought the bike used, the dealer I bought it from tried to sell me an extended warranty/maintanance plan. I laughed, how much could it possibly cost to fix. Why, my old Honda Magna never has any trouble! He half smiled back and said "well, this isn't a Honda..."
I thought he was joking. Turns out the joke is on me.
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